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Cave Exploration Continues – Pic Journey 3…

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Year and Month 14 Jan, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Tony and Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Bike
Activities Archaeology, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Wattala->Ragama->Radawana Road off Kandy Road->Koskandawala Temple->Nellugahamulla->Turning left towards Warana Ancient Temple->Back to Nellugahamulla->Dikkanda->Left towards Galboda->Pettagankanda->Urapola->Attanagalla->Alawala Pre-Historic Caves->Back to Attanagalla->Haggala Junction->Algama and back to Haggala->Pasyala->Back to Colombo along Kandy Road.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You have to turn left from where you had to go towards Pilikuttuwa along Yakkala-Radawana Road. (Please read my previous report for that directions here)
  • Algama Falls and Uduwaka Falls are swarming with drunks so do avoid weekend and holidays.
  • Algama falls is apparently a very small one but the Uduwaka falls is bigger and wider. Unfortunately not enough water when we visited.
  • Don’t take any polythene or plastic and leave them behind.
  • Carry water with you, plenty of them.
  • For the first half of this journey, check this report. (Crisscrossing through Siyane Korale – Pic Journey 2…)

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

After our (Tony and Me) first run through the Siyane Korale, which was a grand tour, we decided to continue from where we stopped covering the remaining archaeologically important places in Gampaha District. 14 January looked like a perfect choice coz we both were free, unfortunately we missed Hari’s hike to the Sacred Sri Pada via scenic Maray Watta and Sandagala Thenna route as we both had to work the following day despite it being a Poya Day. This made Hari as mad as a lone Elephant in Maduru Oya.

We called it a day at Maligathenna the other day after a marathon run of exploration of Siyane Korale, Tony vowed to come back to do the rest of it and that’s exactly what we did at the end.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Koskandawala Temple, Koskandawala (Yakkala-Radawana Road)
  2. Warana Cave Temple, Warana Temple Road off Nelligahamulla
  3. Pettagankanda, Galboda off Dikkanada Junction
  4. Alawala Pre-Historic Cave, Alawala, Attanagalla off Attanagalla-Galapitamada Road
  5. Uduwaka Falls, Algama off Haggalla-Algama Road

Koskandawala Temple

Take the Yakkala-Radawana Road and after about 2km you’ll see the temple onto your right facing the road itself.

The entrance is just by the road

The entrance is just by the road

The cave image house and the solid rock on the background

The cave image house and the solid rock on the background

Entering into the image house

Entering into the image house

The newly built structure replacing the ancient mud walls have destroyed part of the paintings on the rocky ceiling

The newly built structure replacing the ancient mud walls have destroyed part of the paintings on the rocky ceiling

The rocky flower stand and an apparently a water container located above it to get water

The rocky flower stand and an apparently a water container located above it to get water

Locked?

Locked?

Gigantic brass key

Gigantic brass key

Got in after all

Got in after all

The rocky ceiling full of colorful paintings and art

The rocky ceiling full of colorful paintings and art

The archaeology dept. has done their bit of cleaning the place getting it to former glory

The archaeology dept. has done their bit of cleaning the place getting it to former glory

Thousands of years old yet still in mint condition

Thousands of years old yet still in mint condition

The creative base of the stupa is different from one another

The creative base of the stupa is different from one another

Peeling off at times but a chemical has been used to stop further erosion

Peeling off at times but a chemical has been used to stop further erosion

The blackish square represent the state the whole paintings were before the cleaning

The blackish square represent the state the whole paintings were before the cleaning

More paintings of Stupa

More paintings of Stupa

Done very smoothly

Done very smoothly

A plane has just gone by

A plane has just gone by

The stupa and around it we got to the back looking if we could climb that rock

The stupa and around it we got to the back looking if we could climb that rock

Seen places like these at Alu Viharaya, Matale

Seen places like these at Alu Viharaya, Matale

No clue what these are

No clue what these are

Soaring high

Soaring high

They've found shelter in one of the caves

They’ve found shelter in one of the caves

Resting place

Resting place

There had been a forest of many trees but now completely cut them off and making it like a desert

There had been a forest of many trees but now completely cut them off and making it like a desert

Warana Cave Temple

Go further along towards Radawana take the left Warana Temple Road at Nelligahamulla Junction.

 

Just around the corner of Warana Temple

Just around the corner of Warana Temple

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Don't get fooled by the distance. It's 0.3km (300m) but the dot in the middle is no longer visible or not put there at all

Don’t get fooled by the distance. It’s 0.3km (300m) but the dot in the middle is no longer visible or not put there at all

At the entrance

At the entrance

Not ripe yet

Not ripe yet

More than 2000 years old?

More than 2000 years old?

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

The legend (Click image to enlarge)

Huge rock with drip edges. Who would've carved them so high?

Huge rock with drip edges. Who would’ve carved them so high?

Main complex

Main complex

The history of it

The history of it

Going to the Second Stage

Going to the Second Stage

The rock pillars still standing

The rock pillars still standing

The stupa

The stupa

Resting after a heavy climb

Resting after a heavy climb

Curtained to protect the statue

Curtained to protect the statue

Still in mint condition after so many years

Still in mint condition after so many years

Endless paintings in the cave

Endless paintings in the cave

Huge inside

Huge inside

Many statues too

Many statues too

After the cleaning

After the cleaning

More paintings

More paintings

Reminds me of Sigiriya

Reminds me of Sigiriya

All of them were 100% identical in size.

All of them were 100% identical in size.

Faded paintings revealing colorful plaster underneath

Faded paintings revealing colorful plaster underneath

Wondering what we are up to

Wondering what we are up to

Imagine the size of the rock

Imagine the size of the rock

Goint to the 3rd Level

Goint to the 3rd Level

The path goes uphill

The path goes uphill

More to climb

More to climb

Similar one was at Pilikuththuwa

Similar one was at Pilikuththuwa

Another stupa up there

Another stupa up there

Another image house but it was locked maybe due to restoration by the archaeological department

Another image house but it was locked maybe due to restoration by the archaeological department

Lovely shades

Lovely shades

Closed but managed to get a pic

Closed but managed to get a pic

More paintings on rocky ceiling, like Dambulla

More paintings on rocky ceiling, like Dambulla

Serene looking Buddha

Serene looking Buddha

The ceiling is made of wood with more paintings

The ceiling is made of wood with more paintings

Cracking at places

Cracking at places

Towards the back

Towards the back

Idiotic travelers are doing this everywhere

Idiotic travelers are doing this everywhere

Through the branches of Bo Tree

Through the branches of Bo Tree

They are getting ready to fix a stall for the next day Poya

They are getting ready to fix a stall for the next day Poya

Look at the greenery to the horizon

Look at the greenery to the horizon

Very small monk going towards the image house

Very small monk going towards the image house

Another look at the giant rock and the structure underneath

Another look at the giant rock and the structure underneath

These paintings are obscured by the building you saw in the above pic

These paintings are obscured by the building you saw in the above pic

This roof covers a lot of painting on the rock

This roof covers a lot of painting on the rock

Going towards the rocky inscription

Going towards the rocky inscription

There it is

There it is

Very few letters

Very few letters

Fish tale bird

Fish tale bird

Look at the paddy in the middle with its strange layout of paths in between

Look at the paddy in the middle with its strange layout of paths in between

Pettagankanda

Get back to Nelligamulla and go further towards Radawana till you come to Dikkanda Junction and turn left towards Galboda. Ask the directions from the villagers.

Note: The rock where they called the Pettagankanda has been a victim for quarry workers. They had broken the face of it nearly in half endangering the Temple and the Meditating Monks who live there. The constant noise must’ve been a great burden for those monks. They simply ask us to put it so that someone will take notice the damage done to this place. When we visited, there was a lorry and someone was breaking the stones. The ground was a big hole full of rain water and the surrounding area must surely be full of mosquitoes as a result. It’s really surprise the PHIs or the Police don’t take any action against these people who are doing this damaged with the greedy politicians’ blessing in the area. I hope someone will take notice and take some action.

Dikkanda Walawwa:

 I’ve posted a pic of this seen from Maligathenna and apparently this is a huge bungalow with 80 rooms according to the folklore. The villagers claim that the owner of this place was to marry an ex-president but it didn’t happen. This bungalow was built in the hope of living here after the marriage. The area belonging to this place is said to be roughly 3000 acres. The bungalow itself is located on top of a hill giving it a panoramic view of the surrounding areas. The owner is supposedly remaining single to date.

 

Saw one of these along Pilikuththuwa road but missed picturing it. Very rare sighting

Saw one of these along Pilikuththuwa road but missed picturing it. Very rare sighting

Near the entrance

Near the entrance

Do read this and behave accordingly

Do read this and behave accordingly

The Quarry below

The Quarry below

10X zoomed

10X zoomed

20X zoomed. They keep digging at it

20X zoomed. They keep digging at it

The path is nearly at the edge to the temple

The path is nearly at the edge to the temple

The whole area is damaged severely

The whole area is damaged severely

Here's the Pettagan Gala

Here’s the Pettagan Gala

Closer

Closer

The surrounding, just to the left of the golden stupa is Warana and beyond that Koskandawala

The surrounding, just to the left of the golden stupa is Warana and beyond that Koskandawala

The Maligathenna in the middle and to the left is Dikkanda Bungalow and under that the farm

The Maligathenna in the middle and to the left is Dikkanda Bungalow and under that the farm

Maligathenna zoomed. Sweet memories

Maligathenna zoomed. Sweet memories

Along the shady path

Along the shady path

Got nearer

Got nearer

The stupa

The stupa

This is what it's called

This is what it’s called

Maligathenna to the right

Maligathenna to the right

There's a similar gold painted rock in Thailand

There’s a similar gold painted rock in Thailand

Just barely touching the rock underneath

Just barely touching the rock underneath

See the small surface area of the two rocks attached with no firm support visible

See the small surface area of the two rocks attached with no firm support visible

They kept going here and there

They kept going here and there

Extreme left is Koskandawla, middle Warana and to the right is some rock with a quarry

Extreme left is Koskandawla, middle Warana and to the right is some rock with a quarry

Towards the cave in the middle of the rock and the path is going dangerously close to the edge of the quarry

Towards the cave in the middle of the rock and the path is going dangerously close to the edge of the quarry

They were sitting in the middle and zoomed in to the max. While the rocks are being blasted with mallets, this idiot kept those kids closer.

They were sitting in the middle and zoomed in to the max.

Down we go

Down we go

Old man on this back sliding down

Old man on this back sliding down

Not an easy task for the old bones

Not an easy task for the old bones

Tony picturing inside the cave

Tony picturing inside the cave

They've left statues

They’ve left statues

The interior is too low for comfort

The interior is too low for comfort

Managed to squeeze in and take the pic. Maligathenna and Dikkanda clearly visible

Managed to squeeze in and take the pic. Maligathenna and Dikkanda clearly visible

The pagoda from the cave

The pagoda from the cave

Sitting close to each other

Sitting close to each other

Alawala Pre-Historic Cave

From Galboda take the same road towards Urapola. Take left of Veyangoda-Ruwanwella Road until you reach Attanagalla. From Attanagalla, take the right Pasyala-Attanagalla Road and just about 100m along there’s a turn to the right with a sign board for Alawala Cave. Follow it for 8km along Galapitamada Road and you’ll see another similar sign onto your left after Alawala Junction. Along that road about 500-600m away is a temple and ask the directions from there. There are very helpful young boys playing around and they’ll happily show you the way.

 

Just at the turning in Attanagalla

Just at the turning in Attanagalla

After 8km turn left from here

After 8km turn left from here

This huge notice board is hard to miss

This huge notice board is hard to miss

Tooth of a Shark and a bone of the extinct SL tiger also found

Tooth of a Shark and a bone of the extinct SL tiger also found

Many more stones and bones

Many more stones and bones

The story (Click image to enlarge)

The story (Click image to enlarge)

Have to climb up to the rocky ledge

Have to climb up to the rocky ledge

Our friend Sanju who met us at the temple leading the way

Our friend Sanju who met us at the temple leading the way

Many of these available

Many of these available

Just at the mouth of the cave

Just at the mouth of the cave

Sanju in the middle and the dugout seen

Sanju in the middle and the dugout seen

Signs of work done

Signs of work done

The cavity where they found all those things

The cavity where they found all those things

The cave is very lengthy

The cave is very lengthy

Signs of excavation

Signs of excavation

Tony and Sanju with Tony's sweaty hat

Tony and Sanju with Tony’s sweaty hat

Goes a long way

Goes a long way

From the cave

From the cave

When you come along the road, you have to park your vehicles near the hut at the bottom and walk up

When you come along the road, you have to park your vehicles near the hut at the bottom and walk up

He was merrily drinking

He was merrily drinking

Can't leave these sweet hearts

Can’t leave these sweet hearts

Another cave temple but now it's turned into a Devalaya where they use all these Mantra to curse people

Another cave temple but now it’s turned into a Devalaya where they use all these Mantra to curse people

The Suniyam Devalaya

The Suniyam Devalaya

Don't understand the logic doing all those bad ghtings for people hiding behind Lord Buddha, even Sanju being a kid wouldn't come to this place coz he said these people are bad

Don’t understand the logic doing all those bad ghtings for people hiding behind Lord Buddha, even Sanju being a kid wouldn’t come to this place coz he said these people are bad

Uduwaka Falls

Back to Attanagalla and continue towards Pasyala till you come to Haggalla Junction. (Don’t get confused with the Nuwara Eliya Haggala). Take the right along Algama Road till you get to Algama where the famous bathing place of Algama Falls is located. Unfortunately when we visited it was swarming with drunks in different stages of getting drunk. The waterfall is not so high and the water levels were too low so we decided not to push upwards along the stream zig-zaging the drunkards. We went further along towards Uduwaka Falls. It was no better as a huge pile of garbage was near the waterfall and again full of drunkards. However we managed to shoot a few pics and do check the reckless behavior of those stupid travelers here. Wails of Uduwaka Falls

 

Almost dried out Uduwaka Falls

Almost dried out Uduwaka Falls

To the right

To the right

And the left

And the left

The middle

The middle

Purple beauty saying good bye

Purple beauty saying good bye

Check the Panos here:

Pano 1 - Tony outside picturing the surrounding

Pano 1 – Tony outside picturing the surrounding

Pano 2 - Full width of the Pettagankanda Cave

Pano 2 – Full width of the Pettagankanda Cave

The Pano of the whole sorrouning area. From Left: Dikkanda Bungalow, Maligathenna, Koskandawala and Warana

The Pano of the whole sorrouning area. From Left: Dikkanda Bungalow, Maligathenna, Koskandawala and Warana

Tony and Sanju at Alawala Cave

Tony and Sanju at Alawala Cave


Business cum Pleasure – Pic Journey 4…

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Year and Month 4 Feb, 2014
Number of Days 1 Day
Crew 2 (Sheham & Me)
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Car, Jeep
Activities Safari, Photography, Bird Watching, Business, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Dehiwala->Kotte->Borella->Peliyagoda->Puttalam->Saliyawewa along Puttalma-A’Pura Road and back on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better to start the Safari as early as possible.
  • The Park opens at 6.00am but on 04th Feb they delayed us by 20 mins. (Doesn’t look much but you gotta be there to realize the importance of even a minute)
  • Bobby is a very good jeep driver who lives at Wilpattu Junction. Highly recommended. (075-6254141, 077-4059971, 077-7748132)
  • Palpatha is an Eco-Lodge located near Saliyawewa Army Camp 700m from the Puttalam-A’Pura main road just before the iron bridge. You can check more info on their website (http://www.palpatha.com/)
  • Please obey the park rules and regulations.
  • Take water with you.
  • Do care for the Nature and Wildlife. Don’t do anything harmful to them.
  • You can check the Pic Journey 3 here.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

04 February, the National Day of Sri Lanka and an island-wide holiday for us all. While the entire nation prepared for the 66th Independence Ceremony, Sheham and I left for Wilpattu during the wee hours of February 04. This all happened in a hurry when Sheham said that he’d be heading to Palpatha, an Eco-Lodge near Saliyawewa Army Camp, for an official visit and asked if I was willing to join him. Jumping at the opportunity and the idea of doing a quick recce of Wilpattu (I’d never been there before) made it a very tempting offer.

I jumped with both feet and decided to leave during wee hours of the National Day. We left earlier that anticipated coz Sheham was suffering from insomnia and reached Puttalam around 3.45am. Turning towards the Anuradhapura road we continued passing Elephant roaming areas of Thabbowa and Karuwalagaswewa hoping for a glimpse of a jumbo. But to our disappointment, none of them bothered to come out for a glance.

Tour Highlights:

  • Quick glance through Wilpattu
  • Bird Watching at Palpatha
  • Sunset @ Mundalama Lagoon

We reached Palpatha around 4.30am and decided to take a nap till the caretaker got up. Finally at 5.00am having left the equipment needed for the work there, we headed towards Wilpattu Junction where Bobby, our driver, waited. We left the car and got into his brother’s Bolero 4-wheel drive jeep (most commonly available kind of jeep at Wilpattu) coz both his modern Mitsubishi L200 jeeps were on hire. It was freezing cold in Wilpattu and I’d never imagined it could get that cold there. It was like Nuwara Eliya and the temperature must’ve been around 20 degrees or even less. Sheham and I were shivering in the open jeep but the luxuriously done cushion sheets provided a comfy sitting position. The whole area was covered in a moderate layer of mist too.

Having reached the entrance at 5.45am, we waited anxiously with many others who’d come from different parts of the country to visit this gigantic wildlife-rich beauty. However, the officials didn’t see it that way and didn’t appear till 6.20am to issue tickets (20 precious minutes wasted). As usual the ticket prices didn’t cease to amaze us. They even charged us Rs. 300/- for a tracker even though none was available.

Bobby had seen two young leopards the day before so we were very excited for a leopard sighting coz I’d not seen one properly. We passed many other animals especially a wild boar family of two parents and 20+ tiny ones running in a straight line one after the other. It was such a superb sight unfortunately couldn’t take a pic as we were so engrossed in watching them. We reached where Bobby had seen the leopards and there was a rotting flesh smell which nearly made me throw up. It had been the hunt the leopards had done before but there was no sign of them. We waited fruitlessly and decided to roam around with no success. On the way back out of the park, we got a similar smell but not a sign of a leopard.

Just at the gate we saw a flock of Hornbills feasting on some fruits noisily. There might’ve been about 2 dozen of them and it was a very welcome sight. So my first-ever Wilpattu Safari, which lasted a bit under 4hrs, ended without much of a drama.

Look at all the places and how far they are

Look at all the places and how far they are

First visit

First visit

Bobby opening the gate

Bobby opening the gate

The misty lake

The misty lake

The path ahead

The path ahead

I can't remember the name, is this a Grey Heron?

I can’t remember the name, is this a Grey Heron?

One of my favourites

One of my favourites

On the hunt

On the hunt

Having a chat?

Having a chat?

Very observant and alert

Very observant and alert

Fearsome thug

Fearsome thug

See the contrast in color

See the contrast in color

I don't understand why this is called "Barking Deer"

I don’t understand why this is called “Barking Deer”

Crossing the road but no yellow stripes

Crossing the road but no yellow stripes

Sandy paths can be difficult to maneuoure

Sandy paths can be difficult to maneuoure

Closer to the stinking flesh

Closer to the stinking flesh

The one and only toilets are located here.

The one and only toilets are located here.

Where we had breakfast

Where we had breakfast

A big one

A big one

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

Very busy to notice us

Very busy to notice us

Here they are

Here they are

Mighty hungry

Mighty hungry

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

We went to Bobby’s house back for our car and he treated us with fresh guava, pomegranate and tea. He has a very cute son who kept showing us around their house. Sheham is helping them with Solar Electricity coz the mains line is too far and very expensive to obtain. So it’s yet another helping hand from Sheham.

Guess what? This is Kurakkan

Guess what? This is Kurakkan

Being dried in the sun

Being dried in the sun

Bobby's son had trouble posing

Bobby’s son had trouble posing

Very serious look

Very serious look

Never seen her before

Never seen her before

Bitter friend

Bitter friend

Such an artistic flower

Such an artistic flower

Know the name?

Know the name?

Beautiful colors

Beautiful colors

Ready to harvest

Ready to harvest

Drying in the sun

Drying in the sun

Reminds me of Nasrudin's Story

Reminds me of Nasrudin’s Story

Juicy

Juicy

We reached Palpatha around 12.30pm and while overseeing the ongoing work, set to have a delicious lunch. The manager, Anura, at Palpatha was a very hospitable gentleman. We decided to relax in the evening and I saw plenty of birds near one of their chalets called “Kohomba”. All the chalets are named after trees growing around them such as “Siyambala”, “Kumbuk” and “Andara”. This is a very good place for bird watching and I saw many different kinds of them in the vicinity but my knowledge on birds is as good as my Greek.

I was surprised to see the enthusiasm of people both local and foreigners to live in typical village life styles. It proves how effective and peaceful our ancestors’ lives were. You wouldn’t believe the money they pay for a simple village meal and to sleep on a mud house with a thatched roof. The world is in fact, going backwards.

Thanks to the chef Bandu, I learnt 5 names of the birds I saw:

1. Golden Fronted Leafbird

2. Clamorous Reed Warbler

3. Ceylon Paradise Flycatcher – Sivuru Hora in laymen’s terms

4. Indian Paradise Flycatcher – Sudu Redi Hora

5. Black Headed Oriole – Kaha Kurulla

Around 5.00pm we left for Colombo but wanted to stop somewhere to witness the sunset. I’m a big fan of the rising and setting Sun. Fortunately we reached Mundalama Lagoon just as Sun was gliding down and took some amazing pics. The place along the lagoon looked so beautiful and ideal for camping.

Well, it turned out to be a very good Pic Journey in the end thanks to all those birds. It looks like the number of Pic Journeys are getting more and more and I’m glad about the response so far from the readers. It’s certainly a different approach by me and seems to be working.

Check out the 2 Videos of the Golden Fronted Leafbirds below:

Video 1

Video 2

Thanks a lot folks for reading and hope you enjoyed it.

Take care

 

Entrance

Entrance

Waiting patiently

Waiting patiently

Lilly pond

Lilly pond

Beautiful

Beautiful

Tiny waterway flows nearby and joins the Kala Oya, which is the southern border of Wilpattu

Tiny waterway flows nearby and joins the Kala Oya, which is the southern border of Wilpattu

Goes through the shady ravine

Goes through the shady ravine

Mmmm, the taste is super

Mmmm, the taste is super

Thatched roof

Thatched roof

"Tamarind" Tent

“Tamarind” Tent

Like camping

Like camping

Bird watching paths

Bird watching paths

Before switching to Solar, they'd used these kerosene lamps making it not so eco by emitting a lot of CO and CO2

Before switching to Solar, they’d used these kerosene lamps making it not so eco by emitting a lot of CO and CO2

A makeshift wooden bridge is the path to the Chalet

A makeshift wooden bridge is the path to the Chalet

Village house looking

Village house looking

Look at those beds and frames especially... They are solid Burutha with Thekka panels along the sides

Look at those beds and frames especially… They are solid Burutha with Thekka panels along the sides

Old lanterns

Old lanterns

They seem to grow their own food

They seem to grow their own food

Coconut leaves are being used

Coconut leaves are being used

Reminds me of the childhood house

Reminds me of the childhood house

Black headed oriole, rather Kaha Kurulla to me

Black headed oriole, rather Kaha Kurulla to me

Indian Paradise flycatcher

Indian Paradise flycatcher

Ceylon Paradise flycatcher faraway

Ceylon Paradise flycatcher faraway

Up close

Up close

Familiar birds too

Familiar birds too

Clamorous reed warbler

Clamorous reed warbler

Silhouette of a bird

Silhouette of a bird

Birds are in abundance around here

Birds are in abundance around here

Here's the star of the day

Here’s the star of the day

Golden fronted leafbird

Golden fronted leafbird

These 3 kept going in and out of the hollow

These 3 kept going in and out of the hollow

Shaking the feathers; guess the hollow is full of water

Shaking the feathers; guess the hollow is full of water

Gorgeous creature

Gorgeous creature

Another Kaha Kurulla

Another Kaha Kurulla

They are coming in numbers

They are coming in numbers

Flower of a corn

Flower of a corn

Strawberry colored blonde

Strawberry colored blonde

Unknown one to me

Unknown one to me

Tiny pond

Tiny pond

Getting ready to sleep

Getting ready to sleep

Through the trees

Through the trees

Either side

Either side

Wow

Wow

The lagoon to the left

The lagoon to the left

And to the right

And to the right

Faraway boat right under the sun

Faraway boat right under the sun

Gone...

Gone…

Endless railway line towards Chilaw

Endless railway line towards Chilaw

Enjoy the Panos to accompany this episode. I only managed 3 of them this time and will bring more next time.

P.S. I’m a stranger when it comes to birds’ names. So correct me if I’ve got those names wrong and try to name the ones without a name too please.

 

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Bold & the Beautiful – Rail Hike Stage 05…

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Year and Month 25-26 Jan, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew Ana, Sheham and Me
Accommodation Ana’s Nest, Rozella
Transport By Car
Activities Rail Hike, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Dehiwala->Udahamulla->Avissawella->Rozella and return on the same road.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You can check the Rail Hike – Stage 04 here.
  • Keep a copy of the Railway Time Table with you and always refer to it.
  • Don’t forget to check the train times from the Stations and villagers as well. There can be unexpected and unlisted trains scheduled.
  • New Chinese S-12 trains are relatively quieter than the M-6. So take extra precaution.
  • Take plenty of water. You can also refill from the passing stations too.
  • Talk to linesmen and station masters on the way as they’re very knowledgeable about the surrounding areas and you might get lucky to spot some places and things.
  • Don’t litter the environment.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It was on 21 Dec when we did the Stage 04 of my rail hikes with my friends. It was coupled with a trip to the 2nd highest mountain in SL, the Kirigalpoththa. We enjoyed it to no end with unprecedented amount of mist enveloping the whole area. Many stretches of the upcountry railway line were completed by us and I was itching to do yet another bit from where we stopped last time, Talawakele. The typical old crew of mine, Sheham, Tony and Atha agreed to join and another member of the same age group, Ana, also decided to hone his hiking skills. However, like Tony used to do, he said that he’d walk for a short distance to see how he feels and warned that he might have to call it off after about 7km. However, deep down, I knew the old boy was gonna make it the whole distance but kept it to myself.

We planned to do the hike on the first day and do a short walk around Rosella on the following day while the emphasis was on relaxing. Unfortunately Tony managed to get his big toe crushed and split making it impossible for him to walk while Atha too played his part getting stranded in Mahiyangana. It was such a pity to have lost those two but Sheham and I decided to go ahead as Ana was going to join us at Rosella. Sheham picked me in the wee hours on 25th Sat and as soon as we left my place there was a big Porcupine at the side of the road showing his coat of spines to us. This was a first for me as I’d never seen anything other than a mongoose in our area which has no forest patches. Unfortunately the fella didn’t keen on waiting for a pic.

Feeling thrilled we headed towards Avissawella. The roads were free of vehicles and we ate the distance pretty quickly. Closing in on Watawala, Sheham suddenly stopped the car to see the left rear tire had given up on us. Not being sure if it was a puncture or something else, we pumped some air and were back on road. After about 1km the problem started again and we had to change the tire and get the spare one. Sheham, surprisingly, hadn’t changed a tire in the last 10-12 years, but he hadn’t forgotten how it was done. Having lost about 20 mins for flat tires we were finally off but the jitters kept haunting us both.

Ana was already waiting at Rosella station so we had to hurry. In our hurry, we’d missed the Rosella station turn off and gone about 6km or so towards Hatton by the time Sheham realized. “Can’t anything go right for us this morning?” I kept wondering as we turned around and came back until, mercifully, saw the turning point. Finally after a lot of hullabaloo we reached Ana at Rosella around 6.30am. Our initial plan was to start the hike from Rozella and go uphill towards Talawakele thus Ana’s plan to curtail the journey after 7km at Hatton.

Tour Highlights:

 1. 20km of Railway Hiking

2. The Longest Tunnel in SL, the Singhamale

3. Allegedly, the Biggest Tea Plant in SL (Highly debatable)

Day 01

There was a train leaving for Badulla at 6.50am from Rozella and I suggested we take it and go to Talawakele and start the journey from there coz the downhill journey is less difficult than going uphill. What I didn’t say out loud was that Ana will at least have to come with us up to Hatton around 13km if we wanted to stop halfway through. While waiting for the train at Rosella, we got talking to the SM and the gate keeper who were very friendly and invited us into his office to show how the operation is done. I’d already got a peek inside an office at Kital Ella when we walked from B’wela to Uduwara. The SM kindly showed us how the signals given and received from the adjoining stations about the oncoming trains. Then the mystery of tablets was solved by him.

The story of the Tablet:

“I’d been very curious as to what the engine drivers and the station masters exchange whenever a train comes to a station. The circular object that looks like a wheel with a thick small circle at one end had always mystified me. Fortunately, while waiting for the train at Rosella, the cheerful SM solved it for me. The thick tiny circle like thing is a leather pouch containing a solid copper tablet (thus the name for it). The copper tablet has the initials of the adjoining stations stenciled onto it. For example, Rosella has two kinds of tablets with them. One we saw had the initials HTN and RZL carved in it meaning Hatton and Rozella repectively. The other tablet must contain the initials of Watawala (WLA) and Rozella. HTN and RZL is the one that gets exchanged between Hatton and Rozella while the RZL and WLA between Rozella and Watawala.

 What happens is when the train reaches Rozella from Watawala they bring the WLA-RZL tablet with them and hand it to the Rozella SM. He then checks if it’s the correct tablet and releases train from Rozella with the train carrying RZL-HTN tablet. Until that train reaches Hatton and gives the tablet to the Hatton SM, they won’t release any train from Hatton towards Rozella. This makes sure there’s virtually no head-on collision between two trains. So far it has worked so well avoiding many catastrophic incidents and saving millions of human lives.”

They even have a redundant solar panel which had not been properly taken care of. The main source of power generation comes from a nearby mini hydro plant. They’ve blocked a tiny waterfall close to the station and diverted the water into the mini power plant generating enough power for the nearby temple and the station. Having thanked the SM and others who were very good for us, we got on board the 5-minutes late train which was an ageing M-6 with a bunch of tankers and a couple of classless (According to the Rozella SM) rotting wagons. The morning chill made us shiver inside and by the time we reached Hatton we all were feeling mighty hungry. Thankfully Ana had brought some buns with him and we decided to munch without waiting any longer. Those garlic buns were very tasty with carrots and capsicum with chunks of tomato and onions too. The surplus buns were a blessing as we were mighty hungry. There were some fish buns as well which disappeared pretty soon.

Soon we entered a tunnel and it seemed to take forever to get to the other side. It was the world famous Singhamale Tunnel. There were a plenty of workers who got off at a tiny station called Galkanda Watta between Hatton and Kotagala just passing the Singhamale Tunnel, the longest in SL. The view afterwards was simply amazing and it made Ana and me get out of our seats and come to the door pointing our cameras at the surrounding. The early morning rays of the sun kept peering through trees and mountains making patters on the dewy leaves. The mist hung in midair as if hung with an invisible thread. We felt like going through heaven.

I couldn’t wait to come back along the track to go through this wonderful creation. Passing Kotagala, Ana and I got to the door as we kept looking for St. Claire and just on cue she appeared out of nowhere just after the Derry Claire station which is another minor one. She was still in a very sad-looking state due to the damn dam of Upper Kotmale. We passed yet another long tunnel very close to Talawakele. Finally, around 8.15am, we reached Talawakele station where we stopped last time and it was a treat to be there in the morning sun shining through hilltops. The Upper Kotmale reservoir which has no shape but runs through Talawakele town snaking here and there was reflecting the images of nearby houses and mountains. Filling our water bottles and getting our cameras out, we were ready to rock ‘n’ roll.

The track had concrete, metal and wooden sleepers so going was pretty tough. On top of that the gaps between the sleepers weren’t equal. However the two old boys kept going while I constantly stopped to take pics of the breathtaking sceneries. We soon reached the tunnel numbe 15 and walked through it with no difficulty even though we had to switch our torches on to see the path clearly. In the middle of the tunnel one of the pipelines had ruptured sending a shower right across the path. We practically had to run across not to get soaked but in the dark and slippery track it wasn’t possible. So we had to get wet in that cold shower which made our bones rattle in their cages.

Having crossed to the other end we saw the mouth of the sluice gates of the Upper Kotmale dam. It was duly closed but on a right hand side water was gushing through a larger pipe but it wasn’t gonna do anything about bringing back the St. Clair back to her former glory. Passing the St. Claire tea factory we all of a sudden got to the view point of abysmal looking St. Claire falls. Walking further we also saw the cluster of cabanas nestling on the slope below the N’Eliya-Hatton highway. The road was still under construction at places, hopefully should be completed soon.

We met some playful kids and one of them wanted to pose like Ben10. We reached the tiny station of Derry Claire. It’s nothing but a small platform with the name. The people who get onto the trains here will have to buy tickets from the guard himself and only 4 trains stop at this station and all of them are goods carrying ones. The path became more scenic afterwards while we took the fresh mountain air deep into our lungs which reinvigorated our battered bodies and minds. We stopped at a tiny waterfall next to the rail track for a quick breather and as if on cue S-12 passed us. I managed to get a short video of her with the waterfall on the right hand side.

From there, Kotagala was a very short distance and we made it with no problems. We ate some freshly fried Dhal Wade from a nearby shop and continued towards Hatton. Ana, who said that he’d stop after 7km, kept pushing us to walk faster. We met another linesman nearby and he told us about the biggest tea plant in SL is close to the Singhamale Tunnel. We were very excited and hurried towards the tunnel. On the way we caught yet another Chinese lady going towards Badulla. Singhamale rock loomed in the distance and we figured why it was called that name. The rock in a way resembles a lion and in Tamil “Malai” means “Hill” (remember the “Kudira Malai” in Mannar?) and the name stuck Singhamale. (In Tamil, Singham means Lion).

Having reached the tunnel mouth, we inquired about the tea plant and had to take a left close to the tunnel through a tea estate for about 500m to reach that. Ana, who’s already on his spare wheel, decided to rest his bones while Sheham and I went looking for that. One of the villagers informed us that the tree got burnt due to a bush fire recently. The trunk looks bigger than an ordinary tea plant but the height is not so much. So this might not be the biggest after all.

We got back to the mouth of the tunnel and Ana was itching to get through. There was a train due in about half hour so we debated whether to wait or go but the villagers who walked through the tunnel solved the matter for us. The railway line through the tunnel is the only way for the villagers living in the area to go towards Hatton as either side is the gigantic Singhamale Rock. You will find plenty of people walking through this more than half a kilometer tunnel in the dark carrying torches, made fires and some people, to my surprise, walked without anything at all.

However, if you’re planning this, make sure you have working torches and keep an eye out for the train time table. Still better to check with the villagers too as there might be some delayed trains coming without you knowing.

Singhamale Tunnel

Tunnel number is 14 and on the side wall is painted the number and the distances between either side. The notice is already peeling away so you have to look very closely. (You’ll find it in all the tunnels) The distances given are still in Miles, Chains and Links. When we inquired about the distance to the tea plant, one villager said about 3 chains. So they still use those measurements. I’ve given the conversions for these in my first-ever rail hike. You can read the Rail Hike Stage 01 here.

The numbers given on the wall are as follows:

109M 20C 69L (109 miles, 20 chains and 69 links)

108M 72C 88L

So if we do the math, the length comes to 27C and 81L (1 mile = 80 chains). After applying for the conversions, the distance comes as follows:

27X66 feet + 81X0.66 feet = 1782+53.46 = 1835.46 feet

1m = 3.28 feet

So, the distance is 1835.46/3.28 = 559.59m

Going through the tunnel was like being under dungeons. It was pitch black and we were grateful for our torches. Especially, you’ll trip over if you don’t look closely at the track and it’s muddy at places making it very slippery too. However, the natives kept walking as if those are no concerns for them. We crossed over to the other end when a group of girls and aunts tried to cross the tunnel, even without a light. There was a train coming from Kotagala and we warned them not to take a chance.

The train was slightly late and I called Morgan, the GW guide, to check the timing. After 9 months of hustle bustle finally the cafes inside trains are now operating and I knew Morgan was working in them. He said the train reaching Kotagala and should be with us in about 10 mins. So we waited and waited until we saw a flicker of a light inside the tunnel until it grew bigger and bigger. The train emerged through the longest tunnel in SL and kept coming at us. What an experience it turned out to be.

We enjoyed the scene a lot and kept pushing towards Hatton and met yet another S-12 just before Hatton. I was expecting Ana to call it off at Hatton coz we had done nearly 13km altogether and it was nearly double the distance he predicted before he would do. Having reached Hatton, we stopped for about 5mins and suddenly Ana got up and told me “Sri, let’s go. If we hurry, we can get there by 4”. Those are the words of a transformed man, mind you. So we continued further towards Rozella.

I was feeling very hungry coz after the breakfast; we ate only those few Wades at Kotagala. Sheham’s breakfast was still with us so we decided to stop somewhere and eat as soon as we could. Having reached a place where a few rail carts had derailed, we stopped for our lunch which was intended for breakfast. We had a hearty lunch of Boiled Eggs, Seeni Sambol and Sliced Bread and got back on the track in no time. The going was now a bit difficult and we kept taking breaks at every 500m.

Having met yet another linesman about 3.5km away from Rozella, we got him to show us what he carried inside his mortar-shaped tube. Two flags (Red and Green) and a tailor made cracker to warn in case of mist or night were in his collection. Leaving him, we decided to hurry up and reach Rozella but not before 4.30pm, about half hour behind our estimated time. All in all, we had walked 20+km and what an achievement for a person who thought he could only do about 7km. Ana was overjoyed and kept boasting to his family and friends. The old boy is seriously back to rock ‘n’ roll.

Our vehicles were still waiting for us at the Rozella station and we got into them and headed for our home, Ana’s Nest about 3.5km away on a very difficult road. Sheham wasn’t to be intimidated as he tackled the road which could’ve given a heart attack to any other driver. It was actually jumping from one rock to the other on the car. Ana and Sheham managed to safely drive up the distance. When we reached home, Ana realized that he’d left his precious monopod behind somewhere along the railway track. It almost spoiled a perfect day for us but we decided to take a walk in the morning along the railway line and see if we can spot it. I even called the Rozella station inquiring if any linesman had returned it but no such luck. However the SM promised to inform all the linesman and keep it ready should he come across it.

We were knackered but Ana was over the moon, he looked as if 10feet tall. He’s yet another example of “If you have a will, there’s a way to do it”. I can remember Tony, Sheham and Athula being like this before but they all realized the potential they had after a few serious hikes. Welcome to the club Ana! We had some ginger plain tea while reflecting on the day’s events. The Sri Pada was smiling with us from the distance while a thin layer of mist was enveloping the surrounding coming over the mountains from Kotmale.

Soon it got dark and we relaxed having a nice little wee chat listening to some soft music. Both Ana and Sheham were great story tellers so I managed to learn quite a lot from them. The dinner was soon ready, Tempered Dried Fish, Dhal, Salad and Papadam made a delicious combination followed by a mammoth Cashew Nut choco. After a hearty meal we were sound asleep even before our heads hit the pillow.

Videos of the Day 01:

 1. Train and the Waterfall

2. S-12 Making S Turns

3. Train coming out of Singhamale

 

Old couple leading the way

Old couple leading the way

1130m elevation

1130m elevation

Nearby mountains lit by the morning sun

Nearby mountains lit by the morning sun

The station, redundant solar panels visible on the top

The station, redundant solar panels visible on the top

Morning creeping in

Morning creeping in

One of the two machines that communicate with the nearby stations

One of the two machines that communicate with the nearby stations

Very ancient

Very ancient

Good old machines

Good old machines

SM communicates with Watawala Station

SM communicates with Watawala Station

The tickets, saw this at Kital Ella too

The tickets, saw this at Kital Ella too

When a train is released this rings couple of times

When a train is released this rings couple of times

The tablet, WLA - Watawala

The tablet, WLA – Watawala

The pouch and the copper tablet visible inside

The pouch and the copper tablet visible inside

The team and the railway officers

The team and the railway officers

Here comes our train

Here comes our train

Seeking warmth

Seeking warmth

Hung in mid air

Hung in mid air

Morning rays

Morning rays

Got here eventually

Got here eventually

These kinda patterns are there at many upcountry stations

These kinda patterns are there at many upcountry stations

Towards Watagoda over Upper Kotmale

Towards Watagoda over Upper Kotmale

Tunnel 15, closer to Talawakele

Tunnel 15, closer to Talawakele

The ruptured pipeline is nearby

The ruptured pipeline is nearby

Came out and the dam is clearly visible

Came out and the dam is clearly visible

Closer

Closer

Zoomed all the way in. That tiny water way is all St. Claire got

Zoomed all the way in. That tiny water way is all St. Claire got

That's a nice falls

That’s a nice falls

They were doing a marathon

They were doing a marathon

Lovely contrast of colors

Lovely contrast of colors

St. Claire tea factory

St. Claire tea factory

There she is

There she is

What a sad story?

What a sad story?

Nothing larger than a few pipelines

Nothing larger than a few pipelines

The cabanas we saw from GW during stage 4

The cabanas we saw from GW during stage 4

Getting close to Derry Claire

Getting close to Derry Claire

Tea plantations bordering the track

Tea plantations bordering the track

It's the mountainous country

It’s the mountainous country

Love the color

Love the color

The SL Ben10

The SL Ben10

Leafless tree

Leafless tree

Crescent and the dead tree

Crescent and the dead tree

Endless

Endless

Just 4 stops a day

Just 4 stops a day

More and more

More and more

Must be using this quarry to supply for the road construction

Must be using this quarry to supply for the road construction

Tiny fall met on the way

Tiny fall met on the way

Up close

Up close

Colors

Colors

First leg of the marathon

First leg of the marathon

Reddish commando style

Reddish commando style

1 upon Nelson

1 upon Nelson

Busy at work

Busy at work

Walking along and looking at about 50ft below was a bit shocking

Walking along and looking at about 50ft below was a bit shocking

Improvising

Improvising

Portrait of the bridge

Portrait of the bridge

Singhamale is close by

Singhamale is close by

Singhamale is on the left

Singhamale is on the left

Here comes the S-12

Here comes the S-12

Roasted snake, might've caught to the train

Roasted snake, might’ve caught to the train

Another tiny station

Another tiny station

Time to have some energy drinks

Time to have some energy drinks

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

Cutting leeks plants with a scissor

Cutting leeks plants with a scissor

Looking for the biggest tea plant

Looking for the biggest tea plant

We were told 3 chains the distance but well over that

We were told 3 chains the distance but well over that

He helped us out

He helped us out

Have to maneuver around the grassland

Have to maneuver around the grassland

Most of it burnt due to a bush fire

Most of it burnt due to a bush fire

Considerably thicker trunk but doubtful if this is the biggest though

Considerably thicker trunk but doubtful if this is the biggest though

Getting back to the track

Getting back to the track

Singhamale is nearby

Singhamale is nearby

It's being peeled away

It’s being peeled away

Oh dear,

Oh dear,

Looking back with the flash on

Looking back with the flash on

Ghost tunnel without flash

Ghost tunnel without flash

No torch or a light

No torch or a light

Same with this couple too

Same with this couple too

The famous Wehi Lihiniyo in a nest

The famous Wehi Lihiniyo in a nest

They've got a fire going

They’ve got a fire going

These used to be called "Hulu Athu"

These used to be called “Hulu Athu”

Finally out of it

Finally out of it

Can't figure out what it really says, looks like 1955

Can’t figure out what it really says, looks like 1955

The trio

The trio

Mouth of the tunnel

Mouth of the tunnel

Either side is bordered by rocks

Either side is bordered by rocks

There it comes

There it comes

Out of the tunnel

Out of the tunnel

Heading towards us

Heading towards us

Hurrahhhhh.... It's Hatton

Hurrahhhhh…. It’s Hatton

Doesn't it get any less complicated?

Doesn’t it get any less complicated?

Looks like an utter mess

Looks like an utter mess

Time to relax

Time to relax

"Let's make a move Sri", Ana is relentless

“Let’s make a move Sri”, Ana is relentless

Getting hungry now

Getting hungry now

"Shall we stop here?"

“Shall we stop here?”

Determined old boys, ready to do more

Determined old boys, ready to do more

No problems so far

No problems so far

Derailed carriages

Derailed carriages

Gigantic steel wheels

Gigantic steel wheels

Mercifully some shade

Mercifully some shade

Coming down after a hard day's work

Coming down after a hard day’s work

Here she comes

Here she comes

Looks empty

Looks empty

Can't sit on the rock as it's so hot

Can’t sit on the rock as it’s so hot

Smiling through the utter exhaustion

Smiling through the utter exhaustion

Almost stepped on this fellow

Almost stepped on this fellow

Towards Colombo

Towards Colombo

Leaning towards the outside

Leaning towards the outside

Millions of these were there

Millions of these were there

Super Macro

Super Macro

Close to Rozella

Close to Rozella

Unstoppable

Unstoppable

Dancing to the wind

Dancing to the wind

Got to the station and ready to go uphill

Got to the station and ready to go uphill

He was waiting for us to get home

He was waiting for us to get home

Good night!

Good night!

Day 02

I can’t remember sleeping so well for a long time. Woke up around 5am while the sun was peeping through the mountains and had a steaming cup of coffee while the breakfast was being readied. It was a special menu of Boiled Grams mixed with Egg Omelets, Chilies, Garlic and Onions. That was very delicious. We decided to drive down to the station and check with the SM about our monopod and take a short walk as well. The views were simply amazing and kept us mesmerized all the way down. We went and had a chat with the SM but no sign of the monopod so decided to take a walk.

Walking about 1-1.5km still didn’t bring us any sign of the monopod and we had to call it off and head back home. Climbing through tea estates we reached the road and took loads of pics of the distant Sri Pada and other mountains of the Samanala Mountain Range. The tea pluckers were busy at work and after a few hours we were back with no-so-good news for anxiously waiting Ana. While waiting for lunch, we picked some juicy grapefruit from a nearby tree and had it with salt and pepper.

The lunch was soon ready and it was a sumptuous meal of Fried Dried Fish, Elabatu, Salad, Sambol and Pumpkin. As usual Cashew Choco was in the menu next. What a cracking and relaxing journey it turned out to be and we enjoyed every bit of it. Having left the place around 1.30pm, we reached Watawala around 2.15pm and stopped to get our punctured tire fixed.

Note: There’s a nice tire shop near the Watawala Police which would be a great relief for any motorists. The place is called Priyanath Tyre Service (051-2237172) and has everything up-to-date. The owner is a very friendly and knowledgeable person.

Well, folks, that’s about it. Here ends my Rail Hike Stage 5, there will be a few more coming up in the foreseeable future. Hope you enjoyed this fairy tale.

Take care!

 

Good morning!

Good morning!

Special menu

Special menu

It's a waste to use such a powerful engine to carry just two wagons. Why not use Rail Buses instead?

It’s a waste to use such a powerful engine to carry just two wagons. Why not use Rail Buses instead?

Morning is so fresh

Morning is so fresh

Tea factory on top

Tea factory on top

Close to her

Close to her

Partial red

Partial red

Miniature

Miniature

Miniature falls

Miniature falls

Vivid colors

Vivid colors

Going uphill with a heavy heart coz no sign of the monopod

Going uphill with a heavy heart coz no sign of the monopod

Sri Pada is looking amazing

Sri Pada is looking amazing

Closer

Closer

This is where the tea is being weighed and collected

This is where the tea is being weighed and collected

Breathtaking

Breathtaking

Is she frowning?

Is she frowning?

Glad to be there

Glad to be there

Many of them were there too

Many of them were there too

Ideal place to have a holiday

Ideal place to have a holiday

Furry looking

Furry looking

Red and Blue and Green

Red and Blue and Green

Ana, no sign of the monopod

Ana, no sign of the monopod

Looks familiar

Looks familiar

Ana chopping a bamboo to make a stick to pluck grapefruit

Ana chopping a bamboo to make a stick to pluck grapefruit

X'mas well gone by

X’mas well gone by

Mouth watering

Mouth watering

Macro red

Macro red

Hunting for food

Hunting for food

The baldies under the Pacha Gaha

The baldies under the Pacha Gaha

Enjoying a sumptuous meal

Enjoying a sumptuous meal

I'm hungry

I’m hungry

The falls near the station

The falls near the station

Up close

Up close

Ready to exchange the tablet

Ready to exchange the tablet

Twins

Twins

Japanese Stunts

Japanese Stunts

Going towards Watawala

Going towards Watawala

What to do with these?

What to do with these?

The map around Rozella of the railway line

The map around Rozella of the railway line

Can't make head nor tail of this

Can’t make head nor tail of this

Now it’s time to look at my Panos:

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Pano 9

Pano 9

Pano 10

Pano 10

Pano 11

Pano 11

Pano 12

Pano 12

Pano 13

Pano 13

Pano 14

Pano 14

Pano 15

Pano 15

Pano 16

Pano 16

Pano 17

Pano 17

Pano 18

Pano 18

Pano 19

Pano 19

Pano 20

Pano 20

Hunnasgiriya Mountain (1514m) and nearby cascades

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Year and Month January, 2014 (25th)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 02-Ashan and My self
Accommodation N/A
Transport Bus, Three wheeler and walking
Activities Mountain climbing, Sightseeing and Photography
Weather Sunny
Route Colombo -> Kandy -> Waththegama -> Hunnasgiriya ->”Senga Sadu” සෙන්ග සාඩු line houses -> Hunnasgiriya peak -> Returned back in same route to Hunnasgiriya -> Elkaduwa -> Usswaththa estate in Hunugala road -> Returned back to Elkaduwa -> Lali Ambe junction -> Mathale -> Kandy -> Colombo[Download Google Earth Trail Map]
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Start the journey as early as possible. Then you can climb the mountain and can cover all these nearby waterfalls.
  • There is a bus from Colombo to Mahiyangana drives from private bus stand at 3am and it reaches Kandy by 6am. There are buses from Kandy to Waththegama since 5am. Buses from Waththegama to Elkaduwa via Hunnasgiriya junction starts at 7am.
  • Distance from Hunnasgiriya junction to “Senga Sadu” lime houses is about 6km. There is a bus from Hunnasgiriya lime houses to Elkaduwa as well. But we preferred to walk up this distance till Hunnas Falls hotel and then hired a three wheeler.
  • Leech protection methods to be followed.
  • Better wear attire due to thorny bushes.
  • There are water sources on your way to the peak. Better carry an empty bottle to fill. As there are no lime houses above Senga Sadu lime house, this water is good for drinking purpose.
  • We would like to recommend a guide for this climbing as you may easily move away from the correct pathway. A guide can be found from the estate. We did latter half of the journey alone as we had a clear idea of the direction of the peak and previous experiences. Otherwise highest point is visible only at the last moment.
  • Basically all the waterfalls have low water level. You have to visit there during/soon after rainy season to enjoy the real beauty. But it is not the correct time to climb the mountain due to ample of blood suckers.
  • Don’t know the safety of bathing at waterfall bases. Although it has low water levels better clarify from locals before you get into the water.
  • Public transport system is fairly good between Waththegama-Elkaduwa-Mathale. But less buses from villages to towns in evening hours.
  • GPS points and some photographs from co-traveler-Ashan.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

You may notice a unique shape mountain at Katugasthota town over it’s bridge and it is the highest mountain of that side. This is more visible from Waththegama town and got our attention in our waterfall hunting along Bambaralla road. After inquiring Waththegama town, got to know it as the Hunnasgiriya Mountain which is situated at Campbell’s Lane forest reserve.

There are two routes to approach Hunnasgiriya Mountain.

  1. From Hunnasgiriya Estate side-What we did.
  2. From Panwila side-Pathway is much clear.

There are two places called Hunnasgiriya in Kandy District. Other one will come across in Kandy-Mahiyangana road-A18.

Map-Note Hunnasgiriya mountain range and Campbell’s Lane forest reserve. Black star shows the peak and black arrow shows our approach from Hunnasgiriya estate side. Red arrow shows the pathway from Panwila side.  This is the boundary between Kandy and Mathale district.

Map-Note Hunnasgiriya mountain range and Campbell’s Lane forest reserve. Black star shows the peak and black arrow shows our approach from Hunnasgiriya estate side. Red arrow shows the pathway from Panwila side.
This is the boundary between Kandy and Mathale district.

View of Hunnasgiriya peak from Waththegama town. Pic by Ashan

View of Hunnasgiriya peak from Waththegama town. Pic by Ashan

We started walking along Hunnasgiriya road in early morning. As this is the road towards famous Hunnas Falls hotel, it is well maintained. We came across Hunnas Falls on your way up but it was too early to visit there. After passing the Hotel we hired a three wheeler to Senga Sadu lime house. Estate people call this peak as “Kodi Kati Male” (කොඩි කටි මලේ)

Be careful of wild animals

Be careful of wild animals

Morning rays

Morning rays

Abounded tea factory at Hunnasgiriya Estate

Abounded tea factory at Hunnasgiriya Estate

Abounded tea factory at Hunnasgiriya Estate

Abounded tea factory at Hunnasgiriya Estate

The road

The road

The mountain which is situated behind the Hotel. This is climbed by foreigners

The mountain which is situated behind the Hotel. This is climbed by foreigners

Important junction. Black arrow to Hunnasgiriya Radio and TV transmission towers, Red Arrow towards Hunnas Falls hotel

Important junction. Black arrow to Hunnasgiriya Radio and TV transmission towers, Red Arrow towards Hunnas Falls hotel

Famous Hunnas Falls Hotel

Famous Hunnas Falls Hotel

This is a common triad you will come across.  Black arrow-Atipola Rock, Red Arrow-Brandy Rock and Yellow arrow- Wilshire Mountain

This is a common triad you will come across. Black arrow-Atipola Rock, Red Arrow-Brandy Rock and Yellow arrow- Wilshire Mountain

One estate worker with a little boy voluntarily came to show us the pathway. We started the foot pathway from Lime houses. This foot pathway goes over a rock plate and then we passed a small tea patch to enter the forest. Thereafter it was a continuous ascend till about 1km and foot pathway could be easily misled in this area. Because there are number of pathways using by firewood cutters. Then undergrowth in this area is also high.

After about one kilometer we came to an area where undergrowth is less. Then we said good bye to our guide and started the climbing alone. He said foot pathway is clear after this and take the right turn at the junction where foot pathway branches.

But there are number of junctions where foot pathway gets branches. You have to walk without getting right side pathway. At one stage this will goes on left side of a water stream parallel to it. After walking about 1km we came to the junction where right pathway goes to the peak and left one goes to Panwila. (This is the pathway from Panwila (පන්විල); a small Kovil would come across in this pathway). After about another 500m walk we came to an observation point where you can have a nice 1800 view towards Panwila side with Victoria reservoir. Peak was visible from here.

Then we climbed about another 500m and came to the highest point of Hunnasgiriya mountain range of Campbell’s lane forest reservoir.

Total distance we measured on our way back was 2km from peak to lime houses.

“Senga Sadu” lime houses

“Senga Sadu” lime houses

Walking over the rock plate

Walking over the rock plate

Breathe taking view

Breathe taking view

Entering to the tea patch

Entering to the tea patch

Thick undergrowth was a real challenge in early part. This small friend came to show us the way with bear foot

Thick undergrowth was a real challenge in early part. This small friend came to show us the way with bear foot

Good exercise for Ashan

Good exercise for Ashan

Where we started the journey alone

Where we started the journey alone

Now undergrowth is less. But foot pathway is not clear

Now undergrowth is less. But foot pathway is not clear

This is the junction where foot pathways get branched. Black arrow shows Panwila side. Red arrow shows the peak.  This area is good for camping. Locals do camping here

This is the junction where foot pathways get branched. Black arrow shows Panwila side. Red arrow shows the peak. This area is good for camping. Locals do camping here

Having a sip of water

Having a sip of water

Cut marks may help you

Cut marks may help you

Nice to have a chance to walk here

Nice to have a chance to walk here

Isolated beauty

Isolated beauty

First glimpse of the peak

First glimpse of the peak

At the summit point you can have a nice panoramic view including Kandy town with Hanthana range, Waththegama town, Mathale town with Atipola, Wilshire and Brandy rocks, Knuckles peaks covering with mist, Panwila side and tea estates and Victoria reservoir.

The drop

The drop

Katugasthota town and lake. Kandy town is visible far away

Katugasthota town and lake. Kandy town is visible far away

Panwila side

Panwila side

Victoria reservoir

Victoria reservoir

Knuckles peaks covering with mist

Knuckles peaks covering with mist

Mathale town at base of Atipola mountain, Brandy rock and Wilshire Mountain

Mathale town at base of Atipola mountain, Brandy rock and Wilshire Mountain

Hunnasgiriya Transmission towers

Hunnasgiriya Transmission towers

Extended Mathale town

Extended Mathale town

Indian Fritillary

Indian Fritillary

Where we were. Note the peak of Hunnasgiriya mountain range and transmission towers.  This was taken on our way to Elkaduwa

Where we were. Note the peak of Hunnasgiriya mountain range and transmission towers. This was taken on our way to Elkaduwa

After spending our time on the summit point we went down along the same route (alternatively you can descend to Panwila side). Return journey only took 45minutes compared to 2hour climbing.

Following waterfalls were visited on our way back to Mathale.

  • Ihala Hunnas Falls (ඉහල හුන්නස් ඇල්ල)
  • Hunnas Falls (හුන්නස් ඇල්ල)
  • Ashburnham Estate Waterfall
  • Edanwala Ella (ඇදන්වල ඇල්ල)
  • Halkandura Ella (හල්කදුරා ඇල්ල)

Please note:

Locals don’t use names of Ashburnham Estate Waterfall and Edanwala Ella. They just call them as waterfalls. Edanwala Ella is mentioned in the waterfall book. I used the name Ashburnham Estate Waterfall as it is situated in that estate.

Sketch to show where these waterfalls are situated

Sketch to show where these waterfalls are situated

Ihala Hunnas Falls.

This waterfall can be observed on your way back to Hunnasgiriya junction, few meters beyond Hunnas Falls hotel. There is a pathway through Hunnasgiriya line houses towards this 50m? tall waterfall (Although literature says it is 50m tall no such height is seen). There is a separate pathway from the hotel as well.

From the top of Ihala Hunnas Falls. It is often visited by visitors of the hotel for photography

From the top of Ihala Hunnas Falls. It is often visited by visitors of the hotel for photography

Two parts of Ihala Hunnas Falls. Right and left parts.  Right part is not clearly visible here

Two parts of Ihala Hunnas Falls. Right and left parts. Right part is not clearly visible here

Left part has high water level compared to other one

Left part has high water level compared to other one

Right part. Minimal water level

Right part. Minimal water level

This water flows to the reservoir at Hunnas Falls Hotel

This water flows to the reservoir at Hunnas Falls Hotel

Hunnas Falls

The water stream after flowing from Ihala Hunnas Falls makes a reservoir at Hunnas Falls Hotel premises. They will release water from this reservoir as 48m tall Hunnas Falls. This is the border of Kandy and Mathale districts. Hunnas Falls is a man made waterfall. It is situated about 2km from Hunnasgiriya junction towards Hunnas Falls Hotel.

A ticket would be issued to enter the waterfall premises. It opens only after 8.30am.

Hunnas Falls. They have built few huts for observation purpose

Hunnas Falls. They have built few huts for observation purpose

Hunnas Falls

Hunnas Falls

Another view

Another view

Ashburnham Estate Waterfall

Ashburnham Estate is situated about 2-3km from Elkaduwa (ඇල්කඩුව) town towards Hunugala (හුණුගල). You may come across the road towards famous Sembuwaththa (සෙම්බුවත්ත) Lake in this journey.

This beautiful hidden waterfall is situated within the estate premises.

You have to walk on the side of the Estate bungalow and then descend through the tea estate to reach this waterfall. It is about 30m height waterfall. British Estate rulers have made a nice cement steps towards the base of the waterfall. (Initially we missed it and creped through tea bushes and then Mana bushes.)

Ashburnham Estate

Ashburnham Estate

Reaching the base through Mana bushes. Note nice steps to the base

Reaching the base through Mana bushes. Note nice steps to the base

Hidden beauty. This waterfall can be seen only in one side

Hidden beauty. This waterfall can be seen only in one side

The base pool is fairly deep

The base pool is fairly deep

Edanwala Ella (7°25’16.75″N, 80°40’19.62″E)

This 12m high waterfall is situated Lali Ambe (ලෑලි අඹේ) area. It can be seen on right hand side before Lali Ambe junction if you are going from Elkaduwa to Mathale. To reach this waterfall you have to walk about 1km through tea bushes and a Mana Patch. (Better ask from villagers about direction towards the waterfall).

Getting down through the tea bushes and Mana patch. The foot pathway is unclear due to growth of bushes

Getting down through the tea bushes and Mana patch. The foot pathway is unclear due to growth of bushes

Edanwala Fall-Base pool is fairly shallow. But locals said they are not bathing here

Edanwala Fall-Base pool is fairly shallow. But locals said they are not bathing here

Edanwala Ella

Edanwala Ella

Evening scenery

Evening scenery

Halkandura Ella (7°26’20.64″N, 80°39’52.74″E)

This 10m tall waterfall is situated at Pallehapuwida (පල්ලේහපුවිද) village. You have to drive towards Pallehapuwida from Lali Ambe junction about 2km to reach this waterfall. It is situated on right hand side of the road. Pallehapuwida village is a traditional village famous for lacquer ware (Laaksha/ලාක්ෂා).

Halkandura Ella-Low water level

Halkandura Ella-Low water level

Halkandura Ella-Full view

Halkandura Ella-Full view

Thanks for reading

 

Scenic Rakwana Mountains and Kanneliya Forest

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Year and Month February, 2014 (2nd to 4th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 5 – two adults & three kids (12,10 & 6)
Accommodation Kotapola (Relative’s place) & Kanneliya Forest Rest (091-5671867/ 077-8416565)
Transport SUV
Activities Family trip – Scenic drive & visiting Kanneliya forest
Weather Excellent weather – sunny and bright
Route
  • Day01:Colombo – > A01 -> Gelanigama -> Ratnapura -> Pelmadulla -> Kahawatha -> Madampe -> Rakwana -> Suriyakanda -> Kollonne -> Maduwanwala Walawwa -> Kelle -> Hayes -> Deniyaya -> Kotapola
  • Day02:Kotapola -> Morawaka -> Lellawala -> Neluwa -> Thawalama -> Hiniduma -> Udugama (Kanneliya)
  • Day03:Kanneliya -> Udugama -> Bar Junction -> Nagoda -> Baddegama -> A01 -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark Some roads are under construction thus causing heavy traffic and there are some very bad stretches. Note that the following roads will be under construction for quite some time.
  • Madampe -> Rakwana (heavy construction underway )
  • Morawaka -> Neluwa ( Not as bad as Rakwana Road)
Related Resources
Author Nayani
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We have been planning for a long weekend by taking Monday 3rd Feb, off – day before National day – but were not sure of our destination. Going through the options we decided on a scenic drive to Deniyaya via Buluthota Pass since we have never taken that route. We also added Lankagama waterfalls and Kanneliya forest to our list, as all these attractions were new to us.

So, on the 2nd we left Colombo around 6am and took A01 up to Gelaniyama to reach Ratnapura via Kiriella and quite enjoyed the journey along the misty winding road. From Pelmadulla we turned towards A18 and the road was good up to Madampe. Madampe – Rakwana Road was under construction and traffic was halted a number of times as trees were being cut down for road widening. We had to pass some very bad muddy patches too. Though the road was bad we enjoyed the changing scenery.
Soon we passed the 8 hair-pin bends and stopped on a number of occasions to enjoy the landscape. We could see the Rakwana mountains and the view was breathtaking.

Changing landscape of Rakwana

Changing landscape of Rakwana

Numbered Hairpin Bends…

Numbered Hairpin Bends…

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Enjoying a road-side waterfall…

Enjoying a road-side waterfall…

Passing the bends it was time for a break and we came across a road-side paella where we washed the mud off (from Rakwana road) our vehicle and also enjoyed some hot-hot poll rotti from the nearby kade.

Peella with car wash facilities

Peella with car wash facilities

After a refreshing break we passed Sooriyakanda and took the left turn from Kandamuduna to reach the peak to view the towers. But soon we had to abandon our effort as the road turned from bad to worse. The villagers assured that the bad patch will be only for about half-a-kilometer, but we did not want to take the risk – sometimes can’t rely on these “just a half kilometer” stories!

Passing Sooriyakanda

Passing Sooriyakanda

The mountain range

The mountain range

Road condition deteriorating

Road condition deteriorating

Abandoning that task we decided to visit Maduwanwala Walawwa by turning towards Kollonne from Sooriyakanda town. The road was narrow but quite all right and has not still being touched by “road development”. We reached the old Walawa by noon and spent quite some time walking from room to room in the gloomy old mansion. The restoration work has been completed and it looked quite grand from outside.

Entrance to Walawwa

Entrance to Walawwa

Walawwa as seen from the entrance..

Walawwa as seen from the entrance..

A page from history…

A page from history… – Click Image to Enlarge

Front view of main building

Front view of main building

Adjoining building – ancient court house

Adjoining building – ancient court house

Mosaic design at the entrance

Mosaic design at the entrance

One of the many courtyards

One of the many courtyards

The outer wall

The outer wall

Complicated roof

Complicated roof

Having spent almost 1-2 hours at Maduwanwala Walawwa it was time for lunch and we inquired about a safe bathing place and ended up at Makuluwathota River by the main road. It was almost dried up therefore safe for bathing and the kids enjoyed their river bath before lunch.

After lunch we headed towards Deniyaya via Kelle without going back to Suriyakanda. It is a shortcut and we joined A17 at Hayes. The view of the surrounding tea estates was quite breathtaking making us wonder whether we were in Nuwara Eliya.

Hayes landscape

Hayes landscape

We reached Deniyaya around 4pm and proceeded towards Kotapola, just 5 kms away, where we stayed the night at a relative’s place. The house was in the midst of a tea estate boarding a dola. The kids had a great time with their cousins splashing water in the dola till sun went down.

Next morning we were to leave after breakfast as we wanted to visit Lankagama waterfalls and planned to be there for lunch. But our relatives insisted that we visit Getabaru Devalaya which is an ancient temple on top of a nearby hill. The previous night we saw the lights of the Devalaya o n top of the hill and to me it looked liked the lit up udamaluwa of Sri Pada. A vehicle can go all the way to the top (nearly 2km) then you have to climb fleets of stone steps to reach the Bodhiya, Dageba and Getabaru Devalaya. You get an aerial view of Deniyaya from the top.

The cousins at Getabaru Devalaya

The cousins at Getabaru Devalaya

Sri Pathula in the shrine room

Sri Pathula in the shrine room

Fleet of steps to Udamaluwa

Fleet of steps to Udamaluwa

View from top

View from top

After observing religious rituals we returned home and it was time for a final dip in the cool and refreshing Dola before we leave.

Cool and refreshing Dola

Cool and refreshing Dola

A basin full of rambutan on the way from the Dola

A basin full of rambutan on the way from the Dola

Finally it was almost 2pm when we bid good bye to our relatives after lunch and we realized that we had to put off Lankagama tour to another day, but the kids did not mind at all as they had a grand time running about tea bushes and plucking juicy ramburan from the garden.

We proceeded to Morawaka and then to Neluwa via Lellawala. This stretch was undergoing widening and we had to move at a slow pace. From Neluwa we proceeded about 1km towards Pelwatta and took the right turn towards Lankagama. We drove about 7km along this road to reach Kosmulla Duvili Ella. The sign board there announced another 10.15kms to Lankagama.

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We bought tickets from the counter and climbed the concrete steps to view the falls. There was a crowd bathing in the man-made pool constructed at the entrance. The climb was easy but the fall was not in its full glamour may be due to lack of rain.

Poor looking Kosmulla Duvili Ella

Poor looking Kosmulla Duvili Ella

Poor looking Kosmulla Duvili Ella

Poor looking Kosmulla Duvili Ella

It was almost 4.30 when we came back to the ticket counter and had a cup of plain tea with hot hot pol rotti from the nearby kade. The nearby sign board showed 10.5 more kms to Lankagama and we realized it was pointless proceeding along the badly damaged road as it would be dark soon.

We came back to Neluwa and proceed towards Udugama via Thawalama to our night’s rest, Kanneliya Forest Rest. Just 3-4 kms before Udugama we turned left along an uphill road leading to Kanneliya Forest Reserve. The narrow, winding road has been recently carpeted and we reached the Forest Rest within minutes. It being a Monday the place was calm and quiet and we loved the shady environment. The sun was going down but we managed to get a cool deep in the crystal clear stream adjoining the resort. Our Room was just by the stream and it was spacious with two double beds and a clean large bathroom.

Our friends from Matara joined us with their kids at night and we all enjoyed a delicious dinner. The roof of the dining area has been done with Beru leaves and the caretaker said that they did it almost ten years ago and it is still in very good shape. (Of course it is covered with sheets)

The roof done with Beru leaves

The roof done with Beru leaves

Next morning after a filling breakfast we proceeded to the forest. We were there by 8am and we were the first group to arrive. We chose the easiest trail covering Anagi Mala Ella, the cave and giant pus wella – covering just 2.5km.

The trails

The trails

We were assigned with a guide and we started our journey enjoying the cool breeze in the morning day light. Our guide was Mr.Gunadasa and he was a wealth of knowledge and was very keen on explaining things in detail. We were fortunate to have him as our guide and it was an educational walk in the forest for the kids.

Mr. Gunadasa howing something to the kids

Mr. Gunadasa howing something to the kids

My little Tarzen

My little Tarzen

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Wallapatta plant

Wallapatta plant

......and a grown tree

…..and a grown tree

The trail went through a cave. We all had almost to crawl through it and come out at the other end to continue the trail.

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  An observation platform

An observation platform

Note the use of Beru leaves for the roof

Note the use of Beru leaves for the roof

The next attraction was the giant pus creeper. For that we had to go off the road and climb uphill through the forest.

giant pus creeper

giant pus creeper

Anagi Mala Ella was the last attraction of our chosen trail. We had to walk into the forest for more than 300 metres to see this beautiful waterfall.

 Anagi Mala Ella

Anagi Mala Ella

 Anagi Mala Ella

Anagi Mala Ella

 Anagi Mala Ella

Anagi Mala Ella

On our way back Mr. Gunadasa showed us a very rare sighting. It was the Sri Lankan Kangaroo Lizard – a tiny lizard about 5 inches in length – hiding amongst the dried leaves. On our own we would have never spotted the tiny creature.

Sri Lankan Kangaroo Lizard

Sri Lankan Kangaroo Lizard

When we were coming out of the forest we met many groups walking in. There were not enough guides to assist the crowds and even the officer who issued tickets in the morning was leading a group. As we were almost close to the gate Mr.Gunadasa bid us farewell and joined a group. It looked like many have chosen Kanneliya for a day outing as it is only one hour’s drive from the Baddegame exit of the Expressway.

The dormitory at park entrance

The dormitory at park entrance

We left the park around noon and went back to the Rest looking forward towards a cool dip in the stream before lunch. The rest was crowded with day visitors but many were heading towards the forest and we had the stream to ourselves. We all had a great time in the crystal clear water.

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After almost two hours in the water we headed for lunch and had very delicious rice and curry to our hearts’ content. We went back to our rooms and had a short nap before we left Kanneliya Forest Rest around 5pm. We drove via Udagama, Kurapanawa, Nagoda to Baddegama. The road was along the Gin River and the drive was very enjoyable in the fading sun. We reached Baddegama entrance and went our separate ways – they towards Matara and we towards Colmbo – with our hearts filled with pleasant memories.

FRIENDS

FRIENDS

 

Thanks for reading.

Memoirs of Occupied Ceylon and Marooned in a Fishing Village…

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Year and Month 8-9 Feb, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew 4 (Sheham, Kasun, Kasun’s Friend Asitha and Me)
Accommodation Camping at Thalawila Beach
Transport By Car
Activities Boating, Wild Life, Photography, Archaeology, Islands, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Day 1

Dehiwala->Peliyagoda->Wennappuwa->Kalpitiya->Baththalangunduwa->Kalpitiya->Thalawila.

 

Day 2

 

Thalawila->Eluwankulama->Silavathura via Old Mannar Road through Wilpattu->Arippu->Nanattan->Mannar->Pallimunai->Mannar->Settikulam->Oyamaduwa via Thanthirimale->Saliyawewa->Puttalam->Colombo.

 

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • The distance to Baththalangunduwa is about 15-16 Nautical Miles (26km).
  • Mark Boat is the only ferry between the island and the mainland and berthed at the Kalpitiya Fishery Harbour. Owner Sujith 0773-286939).
  • The ferry operates every day except Sundays. It’s always a safe option to call them and check if you’re going on a Public Holiday.
  • The ferry leaves Kalpitiya in the morning at 08.30am and reaches B’Gunduwa around 11.30am. (Roughly 3 hours of travelling time.
  • The ticket price is Rs. 270/- per person one-way. They might charge extra if you carry a lot of luggage.
  • The afternoon ferry leaves B’Gunduwa at 01.30pm and arrives at Kalpitiya around 04.30pm.
  • There are no accommodation facilities available in B’Gunduwa. Camping is an option and you might also be able to stay at the school or talk to a fisherman and bunk at one of their huts.
  • You’re not permitted to take pics at Kalpitiya Fort. Navy has a camp inside and one of them will escort you. You’ll have to produce your ID to their checkpoint.
  • The Old Mannar Road runs through the Wilpattu Junction for about 40+km. Eluwankulama is the last town before that but you’re better off getting anything from either Kalpitiya or Puttalama.
  • There’s an entrance to the Wilpattu National Park near the Kala Oya but the office didn’t look occupied.
  • Be extra careful if and when you’re driving along this road coz it’s not in a good condition and very slippery. It’s bordered either side by the Wilpattu Jungle so make sure you don’t knock any wild animal by reckless driving.
  • That road is not suitable for vehicles with low ground clearance such as cars. We had a very tough time maneuvering around in our Toyota Wagon.
  • Don’t get down and move about as it’s not safe enough to do. Avoid driving in the dark, especially early morning and evening and at night.
  • The road from Puttalam towards Eluwankulam is under construction but most of it finished and in good condition. After the Wilpattu, from Marichchukkaddi till Mannar the road is under construction but about half of it is completed.
  • Doric House and Arippu Fort are located very close to each other. (Within about 1km)
  • Mannar Fort is just off the bridge entering the peninsula to your right. The Baobab tree is along the Pallimunai Road about 600-800m away from the Fort.
  • There’s a short cut when coming towards Colombo avoiding A’Pura. Travel along Medawachchiya road till Settikulam and passing the Station you’ll come to an Army Camp with a Lord Hanuman’s Statue onto your right. Take the right road which goes through Thanthirimale towards Oyamaduwa and meets the Puttalama-A’Pura main road at Nochchiyagama.
  • Don’t disturb the Nature or do anything harmful.
  • Respect the wildlife and obey the rules.
  • Be careful travelling in the ferry.
  • Try not to disturb the fishermen and their families living in B’Gunduwa.
  • Take plenty of water or any drinks.
  • Caps or Hats are a must if you wanna avoid the scorching sun. Sunscreen is a good solution too.
  • Parking your vehicle at Fishery Harbor is possible. Do inform the security and you’ll have to pay Rs. 50/- for parking.
  • Visiting hours of Kalpitiya Fort is from 09.00am to 05.30pm.
  • Special Thanks to the Beach Traveler, Nishantha Kahawita.
  • Don’t waste water coz you gotta go see these people to know how valuable water is and we just take it for granted and waste it at will.
  • Don’t waste electricity either. You have to go see how much they suffer without electricity so save it as much as possible.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“What on earth are you hammering the keyboard so much for?” – One of my colleagues doesn’t approve my constant tapping.

“Just writing a report, you silly” – I retort.

“How many reports have you written so far?” – He’s trying to take the mickey out of me.

“Well, I don’t know. Why do you ask?” – I’m beginning to lose my cool.

“You don’t know? You’re constantly tapping on the darn keyboard but don’t even know how many reports have you done? What a funny thing?” – The bugger is relentless.

I quickly checked and found to my own amazement that there are 46 reports published under my name. Oh dear, have I seriously written that many? I asked myself.

“46” – I casually replied wanting this stupid conversation to be over.

“All of them on-line? You’re counting the ones you’ve not even written right?” – Dear God, I seriously wanna hammer this fella.

“No you snob, it’s 46 online and I’ve some unpublished ones as well” – I quickly checked and found there are 2 more to be published and 1 to be written.

“Seriously? Let’s have a look.” – God save me and my soul. I had to get this over with so decided to just let him have a peek at my desktop.

After looking through them he asks “What are you gonna do about your Half Century?”

“What half-century?” – Since when this bugger started talking in Greek?

“Your 50th report buster, what else?” – Holy Moly Guacamole!!! That one. “I ain’t decided anything yet. But now that I know, gotta do something special”.

“Oh yeah, you gotta do something very special. I’ll be waiting for that report” – What about the other reports, I felt like asking but decided to get on with my work and with that finally the end of conversation.

Wow, 50 trip reports in just over 18 months is something I’d never dreamed of. That night at home while glancing through the news I heard a magical word. Baththalangunduwa!!!

Just managed to switch it over to the proper channel and got the news. There were people and reverends protesting against taking over Baththalangunduwa fishing island from the native villagers so that our power-greedy corruptive politicians can make money by selling it to some foreigner. B’Gunduwa has been a fishing village for generations and the people who stay there have migrated from the western coastal areas such as Negombo, Chilaw, Puttalam, Mannar, etc. They feel it’s their birthright to do fishing from this island located roughly 16 nautical miles from the mainland Kalpitiya.

B’Gunduwa was not a stranger to me thanks to the Beach Traveler Program which is one of my all-time-favorites. In his tour around SL along the coast, the beach traveler (Nishantha Kahawita), travels to B’Gunduwa and spend a night there. Since then, I always wanted to go there. His program had helped me in the recent past to find places to visit and I marked it under top-priority list. However, over time, other trips made it push further back in my list.

So when I heard this on TV, everything fell into place like a long lost jigsaw puzzle. Couldn’t think of a better time to go there like the present due to two reasons.

1. Need something special for the 50th episode.

2. If the powers-that-be decided to take over this island, then no amount of protest will save it. (Having a quick look of the recent past proves this point).

So I immediately called one of my long-standing travel partner Sheham and submitted the proposal. Sheham, being Sheham, jumped in the idea and said yes without even consulting his business calendar. Next in line was the Uncle Tony but he was having a difficult time with his job and said he might not be available. Hariya had also shown a keenness to visit the island but had to give up at the last minute co he had to do the watcher man at home. The other old fella, Athua agreed to come and I just called Kasun as well. I’m thankful I called him coz he saved the day by bringing one of his friends, Asitha as Athula had to pull back due to a personal problem at home. (Second time you missed out Atha).

Day 01

So on the 8th morning, around 2.00am Sheham picked me and we drove to Wennappuwa to pick Kasun and Asitha. E3 made it really quick and when I called Kasun somewhere in the middle of E3, he was still fast asleep. Our reaching soon his friend’s place put things in motion but we politely declined an offer of cuppa coffee from Asitha’s mother as reaching Kalpitiya ASAP was top priority. I’m now a bit worried about having to waste time for flat tires and other unpredictable problems after our delay in my Rail Hike Stage 5. The going was pretty good as the roads were isolated, no poisonous gases emitting from decades old engines. Our conversation was running wild with all the topics from Area 51 to Spies of Russia to the origin of Amazon River. It was so interesting as 4 different people talking in turns about various things. The night simply wore on and we found all of a sudden that we’d reached the Kalpitiya turn off.

It was 40km from there and the road is very wide nicely done passing the Puttalam Salt Factory and staff quarters of doomed Norochcholai power plant. At certain parts the road is still being constructed, especially the bridge about 1-2km off the turn off. We made good time and closer to Kalpitiya saw a statue of a donkey on the roadside. Gosh, not an actual statue but a very still donkey in the dark. Surprisingly those donkeys at Kalpitiya area seem to be too lazy even to move a hair on their body. Wonder how on earth they manage to stay like that.

We found ourselves at the Fishery Harbor of Kalpitiya. Our entering into the premises woke the security officer and he came running to see if a boat is coming along the road instead water. I’m sure he must’ve relieved to find it’s just a car. We told him that we were planning to go spend the weekend at Baththalangunduwa (refereed as BG hereafter) camping. He was very fascinated and gave us a lot of information about the island and Kalpitiya. It was lucky that we talked to him because we prevented a near catastrophic end to our magnificent journey.

We were planning to camp in BG and return on the afternoon ferry the following day, Sunday. However, we weren’t aware of the fact that the ferry is not functioning on Sun. Even when I called the Mark Boat and told them our plans, we weren’t told about this. I guess it was a miscommunication on both parties coz we emphasized on the dates 8 and 9 instead of Sat and Sun. Thanks to the security guy we got to know this before the journey and had to resort to abort the camping and spending the night somewhere else. I felt so down but thankfully Sheham came up with the idea of camping somewhere close by and doing the Puttalam-Mannar stretch on the following day.

None of us had done it before so it was a very welcome idea and we all embraced it with both hands. You know there’s a saying that “Everything happens for good” and we too thought as much and at the end of the journey figured it really happened for good as we managed to cover a whole lot of things in that 48 hours instead of only camping at BG. We had our breakfast of Tempered onions mixed with chilies, tomatoes and boiled eggs with sliced bread. The morning sun was creeping over the horizon and lit up the jetty full of different sized boats arrived in the night after a long stretch of fishing. Suddenly Kasun shouted and looking back I saw this glowing lava ball like Sun appearing at the edge of the horizon. What a sight it was!

I simply forgot the breakfast and Kasun ruined his hanky trying to wipe the curry-stained hands to get at the camera. We savored it to the max while the crows were coming in numbers sensing a free meal. There were a few dogs too and they had a rough time chasing the greedy crows. We shared the last bit of our bread with them coz the sunrise filled our heats and lifted our spirits. Finally we were ready to rock ‘n’ roll.

Tour Highlights:

1. 6-Hour ferry ride in total

2. Baththalangunduwa, a world of its own

3. Documentary on the Fight for Water in BG

4. Dutch Fort, Kalpitiya

5. Camping at Thalawila

6. Drive through the Wilpattu along Old Mannar Road

7. Doric House

8. Dutch Fort, Arippu

9. Portuguese & Dutch Fort, Mannar

10. Biggest Baobab Tree, Pallimunai

11. Pics of My Sister

12. Collection of Panos

We decided to visit the Kalpitiya Dutch Fort before the departure of ferry at 8.30am. When went to the entrance about 200m away from the jetty the navy officials informed us the visiting hours are from 09.00am till 5.00pm. Then we told them about our failed attempt at camping on BG and won’t be able to make it on time to see the fort. Then they said even till 5.30pm it would be ok so we left for the jetty yet again.

Longest Ferry Ride to date

I called Sujith and told him that we were at the jetty and he too was very confused about our miscommunication but could do nothing at the time. However he promised to inform the manager of the Ferry about us and give us a bit of breathing space in case we were a bit late on the return journey. Paul came and talked to us and the two helpers on the ferry were very cheerful and pointed us to sit on the shady side and took care of our 2 5-litre water bottles.

There were a lot of people waiting to get on board and many sacks of different kinds of goods were also being loaded into the cargo bay underneath. This ferry is the only connection between the island and the mainland. You could even say it’s the lifeline of those people. There are a plenty of small fishing craft that can run between the two but for those fishermen doing it between the island and the mainland is very costly, about Rs. 3500/- – Rs. 4000/- worth fuel which is way too much for their liking.

So the ferry is the only viable method of transporting people and goods in between. However we felt that there’s too much dependent on this single ferry giving a kind of monopoly to the owners. Just wondering what it would be like if the ferry stopped operating due to a malfunction for a few days. I hope they have replacement in place but didn’t see any sign of it. We boarded and sat along the shady edge. The layout is kinda funny coz the boat is three-tiered. The bottom (under the waterline) is the crew quarters, washroom and cargo bay. The mid-section above the water line is the passenger hold. Passengers sit on a wooden platform that provides little or no comfort (Beggars can’t be choosers, I guess) especially when the sea is rough. Thankfully it was nice and calm when we were on board. Above it is the roof-cum cargo-passenger hold without a shelter. I guess it’s a good viewing spot especially in the morning run but you’re bound to get sun burned due to direct exposure.

We were relieved to be on the shady side as the boat finally laden with so many essential items and about 50 people left the safety of the jetty into the Dutch Bay. It’s actually the extension of Puttalm lagoon along the arm of Kalpitiya Peninsula on the left and Eluwankulama and Wilpattu Jungle on the right. If you wanna look for BG on the map, just look right across the Kudiramale Point to the left about 5-6 nautical miles off. The navy boys look less busy now the terrorists are wiped off the face of our country. However, they have to stay vigilant as the stinking Indians continuously breaching our sea areas and the biggest threat for our youth, the illegal drug smuggling too seems to be happening across Negombo via Jaffna along the North Western coast.

About half hour into the journey somebody yelled “Dolphins” and we were so excited and forgot for a moment that we were sitting at the edge of the boat. There were about 5-6 dolphins jumping but we couldn’t take clear shots of them as the front of the ferry had a row of people sitting. I managed to get a quick pic of a dolphin but not prominent enough. Unfortunately our ferry wasn’t in the mood to hover about and see them and sadly we passed them behind. It was my first encounter with dolphins and what a sight it was.

There were a number of tiny islets full of Kadolana trees scattered along the arm of the peninsula and the mainland too. They looked green against a blue-grey-emerald green lagoon. I found the team talking to someone and found he’s a fisherman from Negombo located at BG returning to the island. His name was Nissanka and provided us with valuable information. There was plenty of time to kill and we kept chatting with him while shooting the odd picture. All of a sudden we saw a group of Pelicans flying towards us, they were not so big and we had difficulty identifying them at first. After that there was a single Pelican so skinny flying overhead that I named the Somali Pelican.

Video 01 – Just a short video of the ferry journey.

There were an endless number of sea gulls crashing like a stone and catching fish and at times floating on the water with the waves like ducks. We got fooled at first they were real ducks. The average speed of the ferry was about 8-10km an hour. It recorded a highest speed of around 20km according to Sheham’s GPS. Time wore on and all of a sudden Nissanka showed us a distant communications tower which was at BG Navy Camp. Without even knowing we had moved from Dutch Bay to Portugal Bay but for me it was the same lagoon or rather the sea. However the water looks more clean and clear than it was close to the mainland. We could clearly see the ocean floor and the depth can’t have been more than 10ft. The water looked a gorgeous emerald green too.

There was thing that happened on the ferry I found so hilarious that I couldn’t resist laughing out loud. There was a group of travelers going to BG for a reason they didn’t know. Most of them were middle age fellas with pot bellies and a few kids with their mothers too. They were staring at us as if we’d descended that very moon from the mighty Jupiter. While we were talking among ourselves and with Nissanka, they looked at us open-mouthed as if we spoke Greek. The ladies (as usual) were very curious about what’s going on around and kept asking odd question from whoever was close to them. However, one lady found it too irresistible to wait any longer with her question and asked one of the ferrymen. I couldn’t help overhearing the most hilarious conversation in 2014.

The lady: “Meke Saththuth Innawada” – “Are there animals on the island?”

The ferry worker: “Apo Innawa” – “Of course, there are”

The lady: “Mokkuda Inne” – “What kind of animals?”

The ferry worker: “Ballo, Harak” – “Dogs and Cow”

I can assure you the real conversation in Sinhalese was far better than my sloppy translation. The lady was very serious about the question and the worker very sincerely replied to her. I couldn’t help laughing nonstop and soon had to divulge it to my team mates who couldn’t control their hysterical laughs.

The lagoon was too shallow so we kept going in an arc to reach the island coz the heavily laden ferry couldn’t risk of running aground. We kept sipping the lime and mint drink brought by Sheham and it was a godsend as we felt the heat taking its toll. There are two islands joined by a narrow sand strip which are Palliya Watta and BG. At times they get separated when the sandy bank is submerged in the tide. There’d been another island named Karathivu but now it rests peacefully under water. When the tide is out the sand banks might appear but the rising sea levels have taken care of it.

We saw just off BG some divers with face masks on as if they were snorkeling. Looking at the sea didn’t reveal anything to go snorkeling for and one of the fishermen on board solved that mystery to us. He said that those were fishermen doing a part-time job of collecting “Sangu”. It’s the Tamil name for “Hakgediya” or “Conch Shell” in English. Apparently those are a sign of good luck and sell like hot cakes among superstitious rich folks.

 

The sun is appearing in the horizon

The sun is appearing in the horizon

Navy boat returning to the camp after a night patrol

Navy boat returning to the camp after a night patrol

Busy at work early in the morning

Busy at work early in the morning

Just appearing

Just appearing

Wow

Wow

Fiery looking lava ball

Fiery looking lava ball

Parked along the jetty

Parked along the jetty

Very important notice

Very important notice

This craft (Sudu Duwa) was freed by the Indian Authorities after the agreement

This craft (Sudu Duwa) was freed by the Indian Authorities after the agreement

1 million fine? Oh dear

1 million fine? Oh dear

Cubes of ice is being taken to the waiting fishing craft

Cubes of ice is being taken to the waiting fishing craft

Captured Indian vessels illegally fishing in our waters

Captured Indian vessels illegally fishing in our waters

Done a good job of building this

Done a good job of building this

The Ferry

The Ferry

Another boat that carries tourists around

Another boat that carries tourists around

Team ready to rock 'n' roll

Team ready to rock ‘n’ roll

Peering at the Navy camp

Peering at the Navy camp

Paul, the manager is overseeing things

Paul, the manager is overseeing things

Being loaded onto the ferry

Being loaded onto the ferry

Crowded

Crowded

Leaving the jetty

Leaving the jetty

Another Navy craft returning to the jetty, they moved dangerously close to us

Another Navy craft returning to the jetty, they moved dangerously close to us

The lush greenery islands

The lush greenery islands

Another large fishing craft

Another large fishing craft

Cheerful worker on the bow

Cheerful worker on the bow

Nissanka on the left

Nissanka on the left

Trying to reach to the roof

Trying to reach to the roof

First-ever Dolphin sighting

First-ever Dolphin sighting

The sea gulls like sitting ducks

The sea gulls like sitting ducks

Cargo hold is providing shelters for workers and their close friends

Cargo hold is providing shelters for workers and their close friends

Getting their catch to the boat

Getting their catch to the boat

The mother ship with the Conch Shell collectors

The mother ship with the Conch Shell collectors

Got you

Got you

Portugal bay water is more clean and emerald green

Portugal bay water is more clean and emerald green

The comms tower in sight

The comms tower in sight

Got there

Got there

Climbing down the ladder

Climbing down the ladder

The Uniquely Placed Fishing Island – Baththalangunduwa

After it felt like an eternity, we reached the BG but there was no jetty. Instead they had improvised a ladder along which you have climb down and jump to the sandy beach. I had to jump a bit further to avoid getting my shoes wet. The strong smell of fish hit us in waves but not so bad. I guess those fishermen might not be able to take that off them for a long time, might even be lasting a lifetime. There was a row of fishing huts where the 15hp-engined craft were parked under the shade of woven coconut leaves. The whole island looked less busy coz the fishing is done for the day and most of the folks were dozing after a hard run at sea from the early morning.

There were people inside those huts sorting out fish (mainly small one such as Hurulla, Salaya, Karalla, Keeramin and a new kind called Kohombaya which sounded funny), cutting them and adding salt to prepare for dried fish. To be honest I don’t think they welcome the outsiders but stay quiet. So should you ever go there, be sure to stay out of their way as much as possible. However we found some of the keen ones inviting us to take pics of their catch. The people at BG speak mainly Tamil and Sinhalese, however there’s some strange dialect unique to them but no name. It’s a mixture of Sinhalese and Tamil. The Sinhalese and Tamil speakers of the mainland find it difficult to understand this.

E.g. They’d say “Enge Yanne?” – Enge is a Tamil word meaning “Where” and Yanne is a Sinhalese word meaning “Going”. So they are asking “Where are you going?” in a mixture of Tamil and Sinhalese. Uncle Tony knows this a lot better, so should you ever come across him, do ask. He has some very interesting things to say.

So many interesting things and we enjoyed this unprecedented journey even though the sun was up and running full blast sending scorching rays mercilessly as if to fend us off. Walking along the fishing huts didn’t provide us with many landscape shots and we decided to go to the other side. We saw the makeshift wells made by digging holes in the sand burying plastic cans about 3-4 feet deep. No doubt the water is salty but they’re using that water to do cleaning pots and other utensils. The water off the beach is not so good due to garbage and rotting fish. I even saw a couple of toilets too. Wonder how they manage to dig holes without them collapsing on their own in the sand.

Crossing all this we reached the other side of the island which is about half a kilo meter and devoid of any construction. It’s a crystal clear beach but about 50ft off the beach is their main toilet too. So watch your step folks. Funnily enough it also doubles as their waterhole where they dig holes in the sand about 2ft deep looking for less brackish water. They use it to drink and bathe. The beach was however clear of the garbage save for a group of travelers who came with us in the ferry started drinking. Can you imagine the length people go just to get drunk? I was aghast.

Avoiding the drinking party we kept exploring the beach and saw a navy water jet hovering about 3-4 nautical miles off. All of a sudden we came across a Star fish but a dead one. Never seen one before except on TV so this was a very nice encounter. There were plenty of them along the beach so we took pics of them both sides. Sea shells were very common and there were very artistic ones too which didn’t escape our exploring eyes and lens. Sheham kept reminding us about the time so we decided to walk about half a kilo meter further and take a sharp turn back to where we got off.

All of a sudden one guy materialized out of nowhere and was heading towards the beach. About half way back he squatted down and we knew what he was up to. After a few minutes he got up and left; no water or tissue. That’s the way they’re living with no hygienic facilities yet making a living and sending hundreds of tons of fish to feed us Sri Lankans. Then there were 3 guys coming towards us and we saw dug holes in the sand marking their waterhole. They were very cheerful guys and chatted with us while one of them dug the sand looking for water.

Digging water out of those sandy areas is such a cumbersome thing in a way yet very simple in another aspect. They just choose a spot clear of garbage or anything else and dig a hole in a circular way about 2 feet deep and another 2 feet in diameter. You have to do it very systematically so as not to have the walls collapsing on you. The water will slowly come up as if from a spring. Then using a small plastic cup they’d fill a larger container. According to those guys you can fill about 2-3 fairly large containers with a volume of roughly 10-20 liters.

Video 02 – The struggle to dig water at Baththalangunduwa.

They told us how difficult their lives were due to the lack of water and do switch on your headphones and listen to their story. However on the ferry Nissanka claimed that it’s so surprising that they even have this kind of drinkable water in BG coz it’s practically very small and nowhere to get fresh water. They gave us a clear cup of water to taste which Asitha sampled. He claimed it was not so bad. So it shows that miracles do happen. It’s very costly to bring water from Kalpitiya costing about Rs. 500/- for a gallon of water including all the transport costs. Just imagine how lucky we really are. Therefore please by all means save water and electricity. We offered them some of the mineral water carried with us and they very hungrily took it and gulped it down. Wish we had more water with us. They’re supposed to close the waterhole after as dogs and crows will feed on it dirtying it.

After witnessing this we decided to call it a day and head back to where we got off. It was so hot and sun was very much unforgiving. Nonetheless we were very much content deep down coz this was a life-time experience. There were many solar panels in their houses along with a few TV antennas as well. We then saw a generator near one house and the secret behind the TVs was solved finally. There were plenty of kids too playing around and can’t imagine their lives being stuck in a tiny island with nothing more than sea and fish. There were plenty of cows and dogs as well. I’d never seen such bored dogs coz they simply stared at fish and dried fish as if they didn’t give a toss. The dried fish was drying in the open as none of the dogs would bother stealing them.

Cats were no different. They too look fed up of fish and dried fish. I just imagine taking a few hundred dogs and cats from mainland and dropping them there for a few hours. They’d have a field day and need to be hospitalized for over eating. There was one shop selling the day to day items but we didn’t have time to venture into it. Having reached back where we were well before the ferry departure time gave us time to recollect our thoughts. The ferry wasn’t there which gave us a jolt but around 1.30pm it was coming towards us having toured around couple of other places dropping and taking cargo and people. The stop we got off is called Sinna Gunduwa (small Gunduwa).

It was time to go and we bid our farewell to this unique place and got on board the less crowded ferry. Once again we were lucky to get the seating on the shady side facing Wilpattu and Eluwankulama. Funny thing was there were quite a few small fishing boats catching up with the ferry bringing more passengers and cargo, mainly fish or dried fish packed tightly in cardboard or rigifoam boxes. It was so fun to listen to the exchange between boats and their dialect was completely off my limits. The going was more or less easier compared to the morning one as the waves were rolling along with us instead of towards us. I could figure out the beloved Gange Wadiya in the distance with the Navy RABS (Rapid Action Boat Squadron) camp clearly visible. You can read our Gange Wadiya Adventure over here if interested.

The Kala Oya and the Kumburawa River where the Elephant Tree (allegedly the second largest Baobab tree in SL) located were easy to distinguish. Aruwakkalu Limestone Quarry was also there and the destruction is clearly visible from the ferry. There’s a stretch about 4km all looking reddish at places among replanted trees. This is where they’ve dug deep and extracted the limestone for producing cement. This area is a frequent living place for the Camalian but this kinda destruction doesn’t help their well-being. It won’t be long before they’ll be extinct from this are. This exploration keeps on going at a more devastatingly speed. Repercussions of privatization are clear for all to see.

We got a big fright when I saw one of the workers unloading bucket after bucket of oily water from the below deck and went to inspect. To my horror water was leaking inside and the worker was working furiously to get them out of the boat as quickly as possible. The mainland was looming closer so we felt somewhat subdued. It was a back-breaking task but he kept at it.

Video 03 – Back breaking task of unloading water of the BG ferry on return journey.

We got back at the jetty around 4.30pm and said our thanks to Paul and his assistants. Got back to the car and had a long pull on the lemon and mint drink and headed towards the Kalpitiya Dutch Fort.

 

The fishing huts are all along the beach

The fishing huts are all along the beach

Yet another fishing raft

Yet another fishing raft

That day's cache

That day’s cache

It's the season of small fish such as Salaya, Hurulla, Karalla and Keeramin

It’s the season of small fish such as Salaya, Hurulla, Karalla and Keeramin

Temporary shelters for the boats and people sorting out the fish

Temporary shelters for the boats and people sorting out the fish

Few big ones too

Few big ones too

Getting the dried fish ready

Getting the dried fish ready

Imagine the taste of fried Karalla

Imagine the taste of fried Karalla

Dogs and cats are nowhere near. They’re bored to death of the sight of these

Dogs and cats are nowhere near. They’re bored to death of the sight of these

Here's the Kohombaya

Here’s the Kohombaya

Temporary well for washing the crockery

Temporary well for washing the crockery

They are playing

They are playing

Not many trees like these

Not many trees like these

Long stretch with plenty of coconut leaf roofed houses

Long stretch with plenty of coconut leaf roofed houses

Water buffalo? Up close it's actually a dog in the water coz it's too hot even for them

Water buffalo? Up close it’s actually a dog in the water coz it’s too hot even for them

During the high tide all these areas get flooded with sea water

During the high tide all these areas get flooded with sea water

Very beautiful

Very beautiful

Never thought she'd look this nice when I took it

Never thought she’d look this nice when I took it

One of the waterholes

One of the waterholes

Yet another waterhole but I initially thought it's croc

Yet another waterhole but I initially thought it’s croc

The team

The team

One of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen

One of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen

Sea shell X'mas tree, made by Sri

Sea shell X’mas tree, made by Sri

Colorful shells all around

Colorful shells all around

Eroded by the continues lapping of sea water

Eroded by the continues lapping of sea water

Black Pearl?

Black Pearl?

Here's the star of the day - Starfish

Here’s the star of the day – Starfish

Belly of it

Belly of it

Looked nice through the lens

Looked nice through the lens

Some life on the unforgiving soil

Some life on the unforgiving soil

If they were in dark fatigues, you'd mistake them for a group of soldiers

If they were in dark fatigues, you’d mistake them for a group of soldiers

Just beginning the ordeal of water digging

Just beginning the ordeal of water digging

Eurekhaaaaaaaaa!!!

Eurekhaaaaaaaaa!!!

Managed to fill two containers, one of which is a rigifoam box

Managed to fill two containers, one of which is a rigifoam box

This one is poisonous I think. Name is Puffer fish if I'm not mistaken

This one is poisonous I think. Name is Puffer fish if I’m not mistaken

Pack of sea gulls disturbed by our presence

Pack of sea gulls disturbed by our presence

Stunning colors

Stunning colors

They must be leading a pretty difficult life with barely any grass and drinking water

They must be leading a pretty difficult life with barely any grass and drinking water

Taken some measures to make sure they're not exposed to dogs and cats

Taken some measures to make sure they’re not exposed to dogs and cats

Getting ready to pack and send to the mainland

Getting ready to pack and send to the mainland

Plenty of these all around

Plenty of these all around

Sigh of relief, here she comes to pick us up

Sigh of relief, here she comes to pick us up

They kept coming in boats like this and catching up with the ferry

They kept coming in boats like this and catching up with the ferry

After the cargo and passengers are on board back to work

After the cargo and passengers are on board back to work

How on earth can they sleep here?

How on earth can they sleep here?

Not for long coz he had to get busy with water leaking

Not for long coz he had to get busy with water leaking

Back breaking task

Back breaking task

Bored

Bored

The pilot maneuvering the craft with his left foot. Look closely

The pilot maneuvering the craft with his left foot. Look closely

Looking at the back

Looking at the back

Navy on constant patrols

Navy on constant patrols

Navy jetty

Navy jetty

Here we are and the carts are already waiting for goods unloading

Here we are and the carts are already waiting for goods unloading

Waiting to jump out

Waiting to jump out

Time to go

Time to go

Kalpitiya Dutch Fort and Camping at Thalawila

There are no pics to show you of the Kalpitiya Fort which is so much irritating. We went to the gate and Navy people took about 15 mins making up their minds and getting someone to escort us inside. “No Cameras or Phones” was their motto and we felt so frustrated having gone there all the way not being able to take a pic of this piece of wonderful creation. The soldier who took us gave a running commentary as if replaying a recorded cassette. I’m sure he’s done it hundreds of times and now it’s more like listening to a computer operated robot. However he was very friendly and answered our questions as best as he could. Inside it was a disaster as Navy had added numerous structures and using the interior open area as their playground.

However on a previous visit Sheham and his team had been given the permission to take pics by their escort but they’d left all their camera equipment in the cars. So it looks different messages are being conveyed at different times. There were two tunnels inside but now blocked by the earth and one was barricaded by a brick wall due to terror attacks. That soldier had tried to venture into them without success. Apparently this tunnel leads to a nearby church and the home of the commander of that time. The church is still there about 500m away from the fort complex.

It was a pity to see the current status of the fort due to the negligence by the archaeological department and additions by the navy. True they (Navy) did an outstanding job of protecting our coastal line but I think it’s time they moved out of this place and let the visitors enjoy it and take pics without all this hustle and bustle. We didn’t even have this much hassle at the top of Piduruthalagala where they have the most sensitive radar installations.

Out of sheer frustration, I asked when the Navy was planning to move and the soldier said that the archaeological department had inspected the place and will soon take over. Finally some good news but it means another trip to Kalpitiya too. After that we decided to camp around Kalpitiya and do the Mannar tour on the following morning. Having talked to numerous people about an ideal camping slot and came up with two options. 1. Kandakuli, 2. Thalawila. We, after a lot of thinking, decided on the latter. It turned out to be a wise decision and we hurried on hoping to catch the sunset. Passing “Ali Rani Palace” notice put up by the archaeological department made me wanna go there too but Kasun said that there’s hardly anything to look, just a bare unexplored area so abandoned that notion.

First- Ever Camping on the Beach, Thalawila

We reached Thalawila church around 5.40pm, well in time for the sunset and found a grassy patch just off the beach devoid of any thick bushes for camping. Doomed Norochcholai was looming in the distance and for a change working. It was belching a streak of black fumes towards the Indian Ocean signaling that it was doing something worthwhile for the money spent. From what I’ve heard, it’s been out of commission more than 50% of the time it’s been installed here. Some record.

There were wind mills too about 2km away from us. Thalawila is a very popular church among Catholics who come in large numbers during the festival season. However this being a quiet time, not many were there. Rows of houses roused my curiosity and found out they’re available for rent and get full very quickly during the festival. “For 2014 festival, already all the houses are booked”, one of the caretakers told us. We set about putting up the tent which was the biggest I’ve ever slept in. It was a massive 7-man tent but we managed to set it up in a record 20 mins. The sun was setting and we managed to shoot on and off while setting up the tent. The sandy ground made it difficult to hold the tent with 8-inch guy pins. (Those are the ones buried into the ground to hold the tent together, funny name nevertheless).

We had to use a few stones too to keep it in place. In the meantime Kassa and Asitha had gone and sweet talked one of the caretakers and arranged a washroom in one of the houses for us to have a wash. It was a very welcome thing as we badly needed to have a shower and was wondering where to go. After the camp setup we took the gas cooker and started boiling instant noodles packets and heating the pre-cooked canned chicken meat balls. The dark enveloped us quickly but a half moon lit the whole open area beautifully. Moon rays were reflecting on the still ocean surface and it was a night good for a poet.

We gobbled up the hot noodles mixed with steaming chicken meatballs, left over tempered onions and boiled eggs from breakfast. To top things off, there was a loaf of bread too. What a feast! We badly needed this kinda meal coz we were without lunch. After a sumptuous meal, we decided to turn in for the night. The tent was more spacious and we had ample room to sleep. We settled in for the night, listening for the rustle the wind made by disturbing the flaps of our tent. The waves kissed the beach in small waves making very little noise as if not to disturb us. I fell asleep and slept like a log till 5.00am.

 

Moored at sea off Thalawila

Moored at sea off Thalawila

No light house but the statue of St. Anne's on top of that tower

No light house but the statue of St. Anne’s on top of that tower

Hiya

Hiya

One of the dumbest projects, Norochcholai finally belching black smoke

One of the dumbest projects, Norochcholai finally belching black smoke

Ready to set

Ready to set

Getting redder

Getting redder

Almost sunk

Almost sunk

The biggest tent I've slept to date

The biggest tent I’ve slept to date

Chicken meat balls and eggs are ready

Chicken meat balls and eggs are ready

6 packs of noodles to go with it

6 packs of noodles to go with it

The tent in the torch light and the blue light is coming from the tower

The tent in the torch light and the blue light is coming from the tower

Day 02

Getting up, after a very good night’s sleep was a blessing and we boiled water and had Nescafe 3 in 1. It revived our bodies and we went back for our borrowed washroom to wash and get ready. By 7am, we were ready to go and bid our farewell to the friendly caretaker and were on our way merrily.

 

Good Morning! everyone

Good Morning! everyone

Busily folding the tent

Busily folding the tent

Here he comes

Here he comes

Look at the halo

Look at the halo

Sweet

Sweet

Still there where it was

Still there where it was

Busy at work in the morning

Busy at work in the morning

Laying the nets

Laying the nets

Another ready to get going

Another ready to get going

Puttalam lagoon, one of the biggest in SL

Puttalam lagoon, one of the biggest in SL

These are a familiar sight for me

These are a familiar sight for me

Going towards Eluwankulam

Going towards Eluwankulam

Old Mannar Road via Wilpattu, Doric House and Arippu Fort

We left Thalawila and headed towards Kalpitiya turn off. Reaching Puttalam starving wasn’t an easy thing to do. So we stopped to buy some buns and headed back towards Eluwankulama. The road is under construction but done quite a lot since our last visit to Gange Wadiya in Oct 2013. Passing Eluwankulama junction where the turn off for Gange Wadiya we headed further up towards the Navy camp where the Kala Oya borders the southernmost boundary of legendary Wilpattu. There was a barrier across the road with a navy soldier on guard. You don’t need any permission to go on this road but they’re checking the vehicles for any smuggling goods or taking animals too.

I hope they’re doing the same thing for the vehicles coming out of the park too coz the chances are very high for people to smuggle animals or plants out. He explicitly asked us not to photograph around their camp. Ban the photographers is the theme for them. We reached the Sapaththu Palama and Kala Oya was gushing not over but underneath, almost touching the top. It was a super duper place for camping as there’s plenty of fresh water and scores of Kumbuk Trees are providing cool shade throughout. No chance of getting permission I guess.

Video 04 – The Southernmost boundary of Wilpattu, Kala Oya

There was park office near the Kala Oya to enter the Wilpattu but looked isolated. The gravel path is uneven making it very hard for low clearance vehicles to maneuver. There’s very little traffic mainly the people either side (Silavathura and Eluwankulama) of the jungle moving from one area to the other. We saw motorbikes, small Lorries and even passenger buses going in this road. Puttalam-Mannar buses use this road. It must be noted that the bus drivers are very reckless in this road. They travel at high speeds putting both passengers and animals lives in danger.

There was one CTB bus of Mannar Depot (WP NA – 7032) travelling as if this was the Expressway about 60-70kmph. It was crazy driving totally unacceptable. There were a couple of Navy checkpoints inside the jungle taking down the vehicle numbers. I wonder why they don’t do something about these maniac drivers. There were quite a few tanks we passed along the way. Periya Villu, Periya Naga Villu, Malai Villu, Mailanganmotte and Karanchiuttan are a few of them. After a very scenic drive on a slippery gravel road, we reached the northernmost boundary of Wilpattu which is the Modara River (Modara Gan Maruwa). There was a checkpoint at Marichchukkadi the first village after the jungle. There too and those soldiers were fascinated to hear what we were doing and gonna do.

From there the road was in good condition but still under construction at most parts. Passing Mullikulam and Silavathura where the SL Army’s first offensive into the northern terror-held areas was bringing back the memories of valiant sacrifices made by our soldiers. Our first stop was Doric House which just by the road. There’s a tall white pyramid shaped monument close by. 2 Navy officers were on guard duty and talked to us were very friendly.

Doric House is nearly crumpling to the beach below. If I’m not mistaken the entire top floor is fallen off and the majority of the ground floor too is in pieces on the beach below. It was clear that nobody had taken any effort to restore this place other than putting up some sign postings. The walls are crumbling down and our Archeological Department gotta do something real soon to avoid this being fallen completely to the beach. There was color poster showing how it looked in 1804 and in 2012. The difference is heart breaking. Apparently this is where the first British Governor of Ceylon, Fredrick North resided while overseeing the pearls fishery in the North West Coast. The Arippu fort was built to safeguard the collected pearls with a garrison placed.

From Doric House, it was a short drive to the Arippu Fort. Not so difficult to find with well-placed signage. It too was crumbling down and nearby farmer had tied a calf inside showing that authorities don’t get there often enough. It was only the mere Archeological Notice going rusty that tried to fend these trespassers off. The funniest part was the name of the Pradeshiya Sabha in this area. It’s called “Musali Pradeshiya Sabha” and you all know what it means in Sinhala.

 

Just before the barrier entering the jungle road

Just before the barrier entering the jungle road

The Sapaththu Palama through the shady Kumbuk Trees

The Sapaththu Palama through the shady Kumbuk Trees

What a nice place for a bath

What a nice place for a bath

Lovely

Lovely

Imagine what it'd be like when the water levels are too high

Imagine what it’d be like when the water levels are too high

Towards the Navy camp. Wonder what those summer huts are for?

Towards the Navy camp. Wonder what those summer huts are for?

Here's the isolated Entrance office

Here’s the isolated Entrance office

(Click image to enlarge)

(Click image to enlarge)

Managed to get only him out of plenty of birds

Managed to get only him out of plenty of birds

Reaching to the infinity

Reaching to the infinity

Oh dear, so far to go

Oh dear, so far to go

This is the culprit bus who was driving like a bullet out of the gun

This is the culprit bus who was driving like a bullet out of the gun

Doric Bungalow is just by the road

Doric Bungalow is just by the road

The monument like tower about 50m away from the house

The monument like tower about 50m away from the house

Dilapidated house

Dilapidated house

Only the bare bones

Only the bare bones

Those skinny pillars won't stand long.

Those skinny pillars won’t stand long.

More than 50% of the bungalow is down at the beach due to negligence and 3 decades of war

More than 50% of the bungalow is down at the beach due to negligence and 3 decades of war

What it was like 2 centuries ago

What it was like 2 centuries ago

In 2009 but now it's worse

In 2009 but now it’s worse

Sheham on the steps to the first floor but nothing to see

Sheham on the steps to the first floor but nothing to see

Only the skeletal structures of the ground floor to see

Only the skeletal structures of the ground floor to see

Just like a tank, no waves. Very still

Just like a tank, no waves. Very still

Trying to get down to the beach

Trying to get down to the beach

Very sad looking state

Very sad looking state

Gotta do something very soon

Gotta do something very soon

On the left are the two navy personnel

On the left are the two navy personnel

From the beach below

From the beach below

Huge chunks had fallen to the beach

Huge chunks had fallen to the beach

Artistic sea plants on the beach

Artistic sea plants on the beach

Making sand houses

Making sand houses

Don't get many like these in the dry zone

Don’t get many like these in the dry zone

200m to the left from the main road

200m to the left from the main road

The story behind

The story behind

Protected by a fence but no guard

Protected by a fence but no guard

Being used to keep cattle I suppose

Being used to keep cattle I suppose

Nothing has been done to restore it

Nothing has been done to restore it

The front is like a church. This is a tactic used by all of them Portuguese, Dutch and the English to fool the SL kings

The front is like a church. This is a tactic used by all of them Portuguese, Dutch and the English to fool the SL kings

Not much left standing

Not much left standing

Plenty of these white flowers

Plenty of these white flowers

Leaving

Leaving

Well, no words to explain the hilariousness of the name

Well, no words to explain the hilariousness of the name

Pooh...

Pooh…

The long causeway joining the Mannar Island to the mainland

The long causeway joining the Mannar Island to the mainland

Mannar Fort and the Biggest Baobab Tree in SL

Then we crossed the famous Malwathu Oya and entered Nananttan Area. From there it was pretty straight forward journey to Mannar through world famous bird sanctuary, Vankalai. However in Nananttan, the roads can be a bit confusing, so don’t forget to ask for directions. The road joins the Mannar-Medawachchiya main road just before the causeway. Along the causeway we saw two white lines in the distance lagoon. We were anyway looking for the gorgeous looking flamingoes and looking through Sheham’s 500mm lens proved they really were flamingoes. Such beautiful looking pinkish birds were my first encounter with them. Wish we had a small raft to get close to them and take a closer look.

Just passing the bridge that connects the causeway to the Mannar Island we saw the Mannar fort to our right. It’s so close and we got the first right hand turn and travelled for about 400m towards it. This fort like Galle and Jaffna are in a better condition. The complex is huge with plenty of buildings bordering the perimeter. One special place inside is the Church inside with gravestones along the floor of it. I think the same thing can be witnessed at the Church inside the Galle Fort which is still functioning.

We walked along the perimeter wall and noticed the man-made moat like thing using the water from lagoon. Pretty smart move huh! After a thorough inspection we went searching for the Baobab tree and got directions from the Army checkpoint. It’s about 600-800m away from the Fort along Pallimunai Road which is the second right from the bridge.

Reaching and looking at this mammoth tree was something wonderful. Its bark is so thick and charcoal grey in color, exactly like an elephant’s. It’s even got parts of the trunk popping out like an elephant’s foot with their big toes. What a gigantic piece of creation by the Mother Nature. Time was in short supply so we hurried up and got back on the road and reach a shop called “Rice Bowl” near the Giant’s Tank maintained by the Army. The food was tasty and very reasonable. We even got the info about one of their Holiday Bungalows called “Kamatha” in the area. I’ve put a pic of their poster on the report.

After a hearty lunch and directions to shorten our journey we reached Settikulam and took a turn towards Oyamaduwa via Thanthirimale. Ultimately this joins the Nochchiyagama Junction on Puttalam-A’Pura Road. We stopped for a quick cup of tea at Pelpatha (Remember My Short Report with lots of birds). There is a giant squirrel there called “Nangi” and she’s a darling I can tell you. She’d been injured and treated by the hotel’s staff and now nestles in the Tamarind Tree inside the hotel itself. If you call her “Nangi”, she’ll come running and even let me stroke her fur. Such an adorable darling! She got frightened when Kasun tried to come near her (don’t ask me why) and Asitha managed to give her a cheese cracker. She grabbed and ran up the tree and settled onto eat it dearly.

Video 05 – Nangi having a Cheese Cracker

I could’ve spent the whole evening with her bus others were adamant on leaving. So we left for Colombo but managed to stop for another breathtaking sunset along the Puttalam-Colombo road.

Video 06 – Sunset on Puttalam-Colombo Road

After a heartfelt journey of 700+km and 48 hours of joy and fun we got back home while dropping Asitha at Wennappuwa and for the second time declining an offer for dinner.

50 Trip Reports!!! Who would’ve thought of this when I first sent in my first one in July 2012? Even I can’t believe I’ve written so much during the past 18+ months. Lakdasun has provided a great platform not only for travelers, but for writers too like me to horn their writing skills. I’ve seen so much of this paradise island in the past 18 months but compared to what’s more to do, it’s nothing.

Thank you all my friends who’d been there encouraging me to travel more and write more and more. Hopefully there’ll be more from me.

Will see you in the next episode and this is Sri signing off for now.

Take care

P.S. Numerous attempts by me to find how the Baththalangunduwa name came by went without success. Therefore I came up with my own conclusion in the end.

Baththalangunduwa could mean “Bathalayekuta Dun Gunduwa” which means Cheating a Rotund Fella. Just trying to add my mockery into this. Don’t get it serious folks.

 

The lagoon along the causeway

The lagoon along the causeway

Drinking milk from the mother

Drinking milk from the mother

The last bridge joining the Mannar Island to the causeway

The last bridge joining the Mannar Island to the causeway

The fort is just there

The fort is just there

Signs of the moat

Signs of the moat

The entrance is there

The entrance is there

Still lagoon to the right. Wish we could take this boat and close in on the flamingoes

Still lagoon to the right. Wish we could take this boat and close in on the flamingoes

One of the buildings inside

One of the buildings inside

Massive rooms

Massive rooms

Archaeological signs going rusty. This could be a symbol or a gravestone

Archaeological signs going rusty. This could be a symbol or a gravestone

Huge courtyard too

Huge courtyard too

One of the biggest forts in SL

One of the biggest forts in SL

Initial thought was a dungeon or a tunnel

Initial thought was a dungeon or a tunnel

But very abruptly ended here

But very abruptly ended here

Going to the top where the guards roamed along the wall

Going to the top where the guards roamed along the wall

Bell tower

Bell tower

The entrance and part of the lagoon from the top

The entrance and part of the lagoon from the top

Old church inside the fort

Old church inside the fort

Signs of moat

Signs of moat

Guard rooms

Guard rooms

Must've been like a small village inside

Must’ve been like a small village inside

Caught her inside

Caught her inside

Here's that church we saw from the top

Here’s that church we saw from the top

Gravestones

Gravestones

Must've been a helluva thing to carve these on solid rocks

Must’ve been a helluva thing to carve these on solid rocks

Must be some sort of a symbol

Must be some sort of a symbol

Another grave

Another grave

This was on a side wall

This was on a side wall

Coming out of the fort

Coming out of the fort

The front wall of the fort with gaps for the riflemen

The front wall of the fort with gaps for the riflemen

The biggest in SL

The biggest in SL

19.51m in circumference = 64 feet

19.51m in circumference = 64 feet

We're here

We’re here

Like a huge elephant

Like a huge elephant

Here's the foot of the elephant

Here’s the foot of the elephant

The bark is very similar to the skin of an elephant

The bark is very similar to the skin of an elephant

She was exhausted and resting her old bones

She was exhausted and resting her old bones

Placid Giants' Tank

Placid Giants’ Tank

Wonder if this is allowed.

Wonder if this is allowed.

Where we had lunch

Where we had lunch

You can check call the number given

You can check call the number given

The giant Nuga Tree at the restaurant

The giant Nuga Tree at the restaurant

Something was wrong with this fella coz he won't fly away. I took him to a leaf and kept by the Nuga tree

Something was wrong with this fella coz he won’t fly away. I took him to a leaf and kept by the Nuga tree

Here's my sister and me patting her for being a good girl

Here’s my sister and me patting her for being a good girl

She was very possessive of her biccie

She was very possessive of her biccie

She's a darling

She’s a darling

Close up of her

Close up of her

Sunset is about to happen

Sunset is about to happen

A flock of birds going home

A flock of birds going home

Windmills looking gorgeous in the setting sun

Windmills looking gorgeous in the setting sun

Wow

Wow

He's gone home and so we are

He’s gone home and so we are

Enjoy the collection of Panos now.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Pano 9

Pano 9

Pano 10

Pano 10

Pano 11

Pano 11

Pano 12

Pano 12

Pano 13

Pano 13

Pano 14

Pano 14

Pano 15

Pano 15

Pano 16

Pano 16

Pano 17

Pano 17

One day hike to 2nd (Kirigalpoththa) and 3rd (Thotupola) peaks of Sri Lanka

$
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Year and Month January, 2014 (4th)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 5(Ashan, Amila, Wuminda, Rukshan and myself)
Accommodation Karunadasa guest house Pattipola T.P:0774907025
Transport Train, Three wheeler and walking
Activities Hiking and photography
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Pattipola -> Hortain Plains National Park -> Kirigalpoththa and Thotupola -> Came back in same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  1. Better start your journey in the early morning. As weather in Hortain Plains can be changed dramatically and mist would cover everywhere in latter half of the day.
  2. First do Kirigalpoththa climbing as it takes 4-5hours and it needs more energy.
  3. The new trail of Kirigalpoththa (what is in Lakdasun trail guide is old trail and it has been disappeared) is somewhat parallel to old trail and land marks are almost similar.
  4. Better carry one bottle of water. Hortain plains canteen was closed temporarily due to calling of new tender. So better depend on your own food. We got packets of lunch and breakfast from Karunadasa guest house.
  5. Don’t bring anything other than photos and don’t leave anything other than your footprint as this area is still not polluted.
  6. Train is the ideal mode of transportation for this one day journey. But reserve your train seats in advanced. From Pattipola to Hortain plains information center you can heir a three wheeler. Three wheel charges vary from Rs.1000-2000.
Author Niroshan
Related Resources
  1. Attraction: Horton Plains (Maha-Eliya) – Heaven on Earth, 2100m Above Sea Level
  2. Trail Guide: Kirigalpoththa Nature Trail – Horton Plains National Park
  3. Trail Guide: Thotupola Kanda Nature Trail – Horton Plains National Park
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

This was the first trip of New Year. We reached Pattipola railway station around 4.30am and Ashan came to accompany us to Karunadasa guest house which is situated in walking distance from the railway station. Following our bed tea we started the journey to Hortain plains National Park by a three-wheeler. Weather was excellent and Piduruthalagala mountain range, Ambewela area, Namunukula, Hakgala mountain were visible one our way.

Welimada plateau seen from Karunadasa guest house.

Welimada plateau seen from Karunadasa guest house.

On our way towards Hortain Plains National Park. B grade road from Nanuoya to Hortain Plains via Pattipola.

On our way towards Hortain Plains National Park. B grade road from Nanuoya to Hortain Plains via Pattipola.

Namunukula mountain range

Namunukula mountain range

Piduruthalagala and Ambewela area.

Piduruthalagala and Ambewela area.

Ambewela wind farm.

Ambewela wind farm.

Ambewela area.

Ambewela area.

Hakgala Mountain.

Hakgala Mountain.

At Pattipola ticket counter.

At Pattipola ticket counter.

Unique peak of Sri Lanka-Sri Pada.

Unique peak of Sri Lanka-Sri Pada.

Agra Bopath mountain-Unofficial 4th highest peak of Sri Lanka.

Agra Bopath mountain-Unofficial 4th highest peak of Sri Lanka.

Thotupola Mountain. 3rd highest peak.

Thotupola Mountain. 3rd highest peak.

Hortain Plains information center.

Hortain Plains information center.

Heading to Kirigalpoththa Mountain.

Few points of Kirigalpoththa
• 2nd highest mountain of Sri Lanka. It’s height is 2388m (7835ft).
• Highest mountain peak of Sri Lanka whose summit is accessible to the general public.
• Situated in the west area of Hortain Plains.
• Location-06047’57”N 80046’00’’E
• Least tourist attraction site of Hortain plains.

Starting the trail.  Although it is mentioned 7km, it is about 5.6km. We measured.

Starting the trail. Although it is mentioned 7km, it is about 5.6km. We measured.

Pigmy trees.

Pigmy trees.

Guys loitering in the plain.

Guys loitering in the plain.

Belihuloya flows.

Belihuloya flows.

Hidden beauty.

Hidden beauty.

Ashan is having a sun bath.

Ashan is having a sun bath.

Permanent residencies of the plain

Permanent residencies of the plain

Entering to an open area.

Entering to an open area.

Agra Bopath mountain again.

Agra Bopath mountain again.

Walking through Nelu trees.

Walking through Nelu trees.

Nelu spring is not over.

Nelu spring is not over.

Yummy

Yummy

Enjoying the beauty.

Enjoying the beauty.

Clear foot pathway.

Clear foot pathway.

First glimpse of the peak.

First glimpse of the peak.

Closer view.

Closer view.

Actual climbing towards Kirigalpoththa.

Actual climbing towards Kirigalpoththa.

The drop.

The drop.

View of the summit point.

View of the summit point.

Heading to the summit.

Heading to the summit.

Supposed to be the 2nd highest point of Sri Lanka.

Supposed to be the 2nd highest point of Sri Lanka.

Misty Mountain.

Misty Mountain.

Group photo.

Group photo.

Dayagama area is seen.

Dayagama area is seen.

Bowitiya is a common flower of this area.

Bowitiya is a common flower of this area.

Forest covering just below the peak.

Forest covering just below the peak.

Getting back.

Getting back.

Finding of drinking water is not a problem.

Finding of drinking water is not a problem.

Invasive.

Invasive.

Baker's falls.

Baker’s falls.

Note- Still weather was excellent.

Note- Still weather was excellent.

We were there.

We were there.

Thotupola Kanda
Few points of Thotupola Kanda
• Third highest peak of Sri Lanka. It’s height is 2357m (7733ft).
• Thotupola Kanda means a landing site of Rawana. After kidnapping Sita, Rawana first landed his plane here.
• Trail distance up to the peak is 2km.
• Location is 06049’59”N 80049’11’’E.

Information about Thotupola Kanda.

Information about Thotupola Kanda.

Starting the trail. Note- Still Nelu spring is there.

Starting the trail. Note- Still Nelu spring is there.

Nelu.

Nelu.

Towards Hortain Plains.

Towards Hortain Plains.

Ambewela wind farm.

Ambewela wind farm.

Newly built housing scheme.

Newly built housing scheme.

Team photo taken below the summit. Ashan is missing. This is the place you can have a good panoramic view from Thotupola Mountain.

Team photo taken below the summit. Ashan is missing. This is the place you can have a good panoramic view from Thotupola Mountain.

Bowitiya.

Bowitiya.

Panorama from Thotupola Mountain.

Panorama from Thotupola Mountain.

At summit point. Summit point is not a good place to have a panoramic view. Forest department was establishing a new tower on that.

At summit point. Summit point is not a good place to have a panoramic view. Forest department was establishing a new tower on that.

On our way back.

On our way back.

Towards Pattipola. Evening view.

Towards Pattipola. Evening view.

End of the day.

End of the day.

Although we started to walk towards Pattipola station, we had a lift by a jeep. Following our dinner we got into the night mail train towards Colombo with chilling cold. Had a day!

Thanks for reading.

Clash of the Locomotives – Rail Hike Stage 06…

$
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Year and Month 15-16 Feb, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew 4 (Sheham, Athula, Tony and Me) + 2 (Ana and his friend Pritz)
Accommodation Ana’s Nest, Rozella
Transport Car
Activities Hiking, Photography, Waterfall Hunting, Archeology, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Dehiwala->Kolonnawa->Avissawella->Rozella by Car.Rozella->Galboda->Watawala on foot.

Rozella->Galboda by Car.

Galboda->Nawalapitiya on foot.

Nawalapitiya->Ginigaththena->Colombo by Car.

 

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You can check my previous rail hike here. (Rail Hike Stage 05…).
  • Check the train time table. (This time we had very little problem due to the strike)
  • S-12 Chinese Trains are very silent. So do take precautions and keep an eye out for them.
  • From Watawala to Inguruoya the track is pretty much isolated. We were told there are people especially around Galboda Falls who’d try to steal your things (Mind, not rob but steal if you leave them unattended.)
  • Don’t litter and minimize the use of polythene and plastic. Do take them back with you.
  • Having water is always a good idea with something to munch.
  • You might have to buy tickets to visit the Galboda Falls. (Rs. 20/- each) There was a ticket counter but didn’t look like manned throughout the day. I guess he comes to the counter according to the train times.
  • Helpful contacts nearby: Sudheera (Mini Cab) – 0775-827015, 0713-074758 // Ananda (Galboda Café next to the Station) – 054-4902418
  • Contact Numbers of the nearby stations: Nawalapitiya – 054-2222271 // Inguruoya – 054-2223871 // Watawala – 051-2237271 // Rosella – 051-2237270

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hiya folks, hope you’ve been travelling like hell and got some breathing space to listen to another of my fairy tales. I promise I’ll try to make it as short a one as possible but don’t forget the first movie of Sri Lanka was called “Kadawunu Poronduwa” (The Broken Promise).

I’ve been on a rail hike rampage from the last September and done so far 5 stages totaling about 114km. I can’t even imagine doing that much along the rail tracks coz it’s really testing your stamina. Having done that much regardless, I wanted to finish off the remaining distances ASAP while the weather is holding nicely, even though a bit too drier for the farmers who’ve not received their quota of rains during Dec/Jan season this time. It’s so much amazing how someone’s misery turns out to be somebody else’s joy.

It’d been sometime since the two old boys Tony and Atha joined us for a journey. They even missed out on my 50th trip-report journey to Baththalangunduwa. Therefore I was adamant they join us this time no matter what they were doing. Our newest member (of course one of the senior ones at Lakdasun) Ana too was gonna join (He missed out at the last minute due to road construction) and the date was fixed for 15-16 Feb making it easy for all working folks.

However, to my horror, on Thursday we heard the locomotive drivers had gone on strike over some position being cancelled. It was the least we needed coz our plan relied heavily on trains. I was not ready to back out and decided to go ahead hoping against the hope the strike will be called off soon as Friday was a Poya and hundreds and thousands of passengers were stranded. However it was for no avail coz they adamantly refused to call it off and we among many others had to pay for it dearly.

Day 01

Ana had gone the day before hoping to finalize his work and join with us for the hike. We left around 1.45am on 15th and drove towards Nawalapitiya hoping to leave our vehicle there and take a train up to Galboda and then walk down. Having reached Nawalapitiya around 4.45am and waking the station people to see if the trains are running turned out to be useless. There were only two trains scheduled for the day, one coming around 9.45am and the other in the afternoon about 12.15pm. None of the retired locomotive drivers had reported to work as requested by the government.

There were so many people coming to the station in the wee hours just to get disappointed and turned around. It was so frustrating to see the suffering the average people have to go through due to the clashes between these so-called unions and the government. Nobody seems to care about the very people who pay their wages. They use innocent civilians as bait to gain their benefits. As it wasn’t gonna help our cause so we decided to go to Rozella instead and walk down towards Galboda and catching the second train from Galboda.

Tour Highlights:

 1. 26km of Rail Hiking in 2 Stages.

2. 6km of Estate Hiking through Galboda and Watawala Estates.

3. Sri Pada from Rozella.

4. Ambagamuwa Sel Lipiya (Stone Writings)

5. Galboda Falls.

We reached Rozella about 7.30am and met our friendly station master who felt sorry for us. We were familiar people for him and wish us good luck as there were no trains except those two. Not having trains was like the hotel without the dhal curry. We walked along the track towards Ihala Watawala which was about 3km away. To our amazement there was this dog that started following us very casually at the beginning. (He walked with us all the way to Galboda, all 14.9km and then vanished without a trace)

After about an hour of walking we decided to have our breakfast. The usual boiled eggs with tempered onions and potatoes and sliced bread. After that it was all walking along. We reached now closed Ihala Watawala station. Apparently it’s not being used anymore, it could even be temporary. We had no way of finding out. Watawala station wasn’t too far away but without any passengers. They all looked like ghostly to us.

However the stretch up to Watawala is running parallel with the Avissawella-Hatton main road, thus not very scenic. Also there’s very little Atha in the meantime came across a barking deer on the way as well. Then we reached a place with a Budu Medura and a small building where a few people were working. They thought we were reporters initially and showed us that it was the place where an M6 engine had been buried due to an earth slide long ago, if I’m not mistaken 1992. The Railway Department had had to remake the railway line about 50ft away from the previous one as a result. Thankfully no one had died of the incident and they’d removed the engine after about 4 months underground. To our surprise that engine is still running.

After that, we were more or less in the thick jungle either side bordered with 100-foot trees providing much needed shelter. Lime and Mint drink with plenty of water kept us sane and kicking. We noticed a few derailed goods carriages too. They were solid cast iron 13t ones just lying there without being recovered, rusting away. Little later we heard a faint but deep noise marking the first of the trains coming from Colombo (5.55am Podi Menike). Surprisingly she wasn’t full, mainly foreigners enjoying the breathtaking sceneries of the upcountry.

Just so you know, there are no tunnels from Rozella to Galboda (actually from Hatton) but there are two back to back tunnels (No. 12 and 13) just a km away from Galboda Station towards Nawalapitiya which we saw the next day. The next train, according to the stations and linesmen, was due at 2.15 from Galboda but we got it wrong as it passed us just as we were coming to Galboda around 1.20pm. Very costly miss considering the fact that we had to walk another 6+km to reach Watawala via Galboda and Watawala Plantations.

We reached Galboda about 1.45am, feeling hungry and disappointed of missing the train. There were station workers enjoying their lunch packets on the benches coz it was so isolated. They even offered us some of their lunch but we politely declined and then they pointed us to a shop at the end of the platform owned by Ananda, one of the workers at the Station itself. The shop served all kinds of food from rice & curry, string hoppers, hoppers, thosai to all the sweets such as kevum and bananas as well for a very nominal fee.

After a hearty meal, we checked the train times but nothing was definite so decided to take another walk along according to locals, a short cut that takes us to Watawala Station. It turned out to be about 6km in total (so much for a short cut) and by the time we reached Watawala it was about 5.00pm. Fortunately there was this mini cab and when inquired he (Sudheera) agreed to take us to Rozella Station for 800/-. He seemed a very nice guy and you can contact him in case you decide to go to Sri Pada from Watawala or Hatton.

 Note: I just wondered, having seen plenty of abandoned wagons at practically every station, why the railway authorities (at least the respective stations) don’t rent them out to travelers. They can park a couple of abandoned wagons and clean them and rent out to those who wanna crash in for a night cap. It’ll give them a substantial income right throughout the year while giving extra jobs as well. I’m pretty sure there’ll be a huge demand from the public for these especially at places like Nanu Oya, B’Wela, Haputale, Ohiya, Ambewela, Pattipola, etc…

Just reached our familiar destination

Just reached our familiar destination

Still going strong

Still going strong

Here we go downhill

Here we go downhill

Timmy (we named him) joined us and walked all the way to Galboda (nearly 15km) and vanished in no time

Timmy (we named him) joined us and walked all the way to Galboda (nearly 15km) and vanished in no time

A sea plane going towards N'Eliya

A sea plane going towards N’Eliya

Rozella Station seen from about 600m away

Rozella Station seen from about 600m away

Plenty of them along the way

Plenty of them along the way

Just running parallel to the Hatton-A'Wella Road

Just running parallel to the Hatton-A’Wella Road

Never seen before

Never seen before

No trains but still at work

No trains but still at work

3 Farmers busy at work in front of Ihala Watawala station

3 Farmers busy at work in front of Ihala Watawala station

Not used now

Not used now

Replica of Tony?

Replica of Tony?

Watawala Tea Factory

Watawala Tea Factory

Reservoir downhill

Reservoir downhill

Going about their business

Going about their business

Closer to Watawala

Closer to Watawala

Main road is visible about 1-2km away

Main road is visible about 1-2km away

Here we come to Watawala

Here we come to Watawala

See the spelling of Galboda (Gallebodde), this is where we emerged having walked nearly 6km from Galboda. It’s not a mountain, but the name of the tea factory

See the spelling of Galboda (Gallebodde), this is where we emerged having walked nearly 6km from Galboda. It’s not a mountain, but the name of the tea factory

Looks luxury wagon

Looks luxury wagon

I love the color

I love the color

Here we are but heard that Watawala doesn't any longer hold the record for the most amount of rain now

Here we are but heard that Watawala doesn’t any longer hold the record for the most amount of rain now

This is where an M6 had been buried due to an earthslip

This is where an M6 had been buried due to an earthslip

Very tiny leaves due to strong winds

Very tiny leaves due to strong winds

The derailed and abandoned carriages

The derailed and abandoned carriages

Podi Menike (1 of the 2) coming towards Watawala

Podi Menike (1 of the 2) coming towards Watawala

Don't know the name, I guess it's a Sala Lihiniya

Don’t know the name, I guess it’s a Sala Lihiniya

Most of the land is burnt out

Most of the land is burnt out

Podi Menike coming from Badulla going towards Galboda

Podi Menike coming from Badulla going towards Galboda

Giant python?

Giant python?

Tony trying to run a fire hoping to boil some water

Tony trying to run a fire hoping to boil some water

Oops

Oops

One of the tea collections points now turned into tiny railway stops

One of the tea collections points now turned into tiny railway stops

Some more to go

Some more to go

Where we stopped for about 10 mins and that made us miss the Udarata Menike.

Where we stopped for about 10 mins and that made us miss the Udarata Menike.

Bridge from underneath

Bridge from underneath

Crystal clear water from below the bridge

Crystal clear water from below the bridge

Sheer frustration coz Galboda was just a few hundred meters away

Sheer frustration coz Galboda was just a few hundred meters away

Finally and where's the doggy?

Finally and where’s the doggy?

Finally and where's the doggy?

Finally and where’s the doggy?

Not seen them before

Not seen them before

The pond with the highest density of water all of South Asia, actually most of Galboda water is very high in terms of density

The pond with the highest density of water all of South Asia, actually most of Galboda water is very high in terms of density

Part of the paper article displayed at the station premises giving out the details

Part of the paper article displayed at the station premises giving out the details

Gallebodde Tea Factory, now completely abandoned

Gallebodde Tea Factory, now completely abandoned

We got to the path along the estate

We got to the path along the estate

Curious onlookers

Curious onlookers

Distant mountains but note the charred tops

Distant mountains but note the charred tops

Isn't this very true?

Isn’t this very true?

The life's hard.

The life’s hard.

So far we'd walked 4.3km and more to go

So far we’d walked 4.3km and more to go

Isolated

Isolated

Mount Jean Tea Factory, this is where we hired the mini cab

Mount Jean Tea Factory, this is where we hired the mini cab

Serene looking Buddha at Rozella Temple

Serene looking Buddha at Rozella Temple

Having reached Rozella station around 5.30pm and went uphill with Ana for our holiday home which is one of the best I’ve been. Located in one of the best places in SL with an endless view of Sri Pada 24/7. Just looking at the Udamaluwa from there made all the troubles vanished into thin air. We got changed and had a very cold bath while our hosts got things ready for one of the best BBQs I’ve ever tasted.

Jacket Potatoes with melting cheese in the middle (first time I ever had jacket potatoes. So far I had thought it was some kinda winter cloth). It was wrapped in aluminum foil and grill over the oven. They were so delicious, just melting in my mouth with that cheesy blast in the middle giving you punchy flavors of salt and pepper. Grilled sliced bread with garlic spread adding that mouthwatering flavors. It was just the starters, soon the grilled chicken and fish followed with hot but luscious BBQ sauce. They had been done to perfectly, very tender and chewy. To top them off, there was this garden fresh salad which is called Wild Salad of different veggies and herbs, especially coriander leaves. That was all we needed to satisfy our greedy tummies and after that sumptuous meal, we were ready to hit the sack.

It was not so cold and we jumped into our cozy beds, heaved a sigh of relief and wrapped ourselves and let the sleep envelope our bodies. Gosh, what a day! It was so grand and was looking forward to the next one.

 

Unjacketed jacket potato

Unjacketed jacket potato

Tony the BBQ wizard

Tony the BBQ wizard

Being cooked while all of us mouths' were salivating

Being cooked while all of us mouths’ were salivating

Many different varieties

Many different varieties

Garlic bread was the star

Garlic bread was the star

Atha had already finished

Atha had already finished

Moon is up

Moon is up

Good night

Good night

Day 02

Just getting out of my sleep to see everyone else was up and deep in their reveries. Just looking out of the glass and saw the lighted path of Hatton to the majestic Sri Pada. I virtually jumped outta bed and ran out with the camera. The household was coming to life coz we all had planned an early start. The surrounding was so cool and the fresh mountain air kept me fully awake and invigorated. In the distance, sacred Sri Pada Mountain was clearly visible with a string of pearls hanging from the top. I felt so lucky to witness all this unfolding right before my eyes.

The whole area was bathed in the Navam Full Moon; the sky had its jeweled coat on with hundreds of glinting stars in various sizes. I felt as if I was in wonderland. The faint moonlight highlighting the tip of the Sri Pada while the lights along the path made a nice pattern as if laid with shining pearls. The sun was ever so slowly creeping from his sleep making a faint glow in the horizon. Wow, just couldn’t believe my eyes. I managed to take a few pics while savoring this moment. It’s something I’ll treasure for the rest of my life.

Atha brought a nice steaming cup of coffee to me and we had to hurry. Our plan was to drive up to Galboda and return on the 12.15pm Udarata Menike from Nawalapitiya. After a super meal of mixed grams we decided to walk along the Bin Oya Division of Carolina Estate to the Rozella Station. The lush green tea plantation was stunning in the morning sun and Sri Pada was straight ahead us giving us panoramic view of the whole area. We were practically walking through heaven. I managed to convince Tony to do a short documentary and you can check it below.

Documentary from Carolina Estate keeping Sri Pada in sight.

 

String of pearls

String of pearls

Sri Pada illuminated by stars and the path

Sri Pada illuminated by stars and the path

Starry night

Starry night

Simply amazing

Simply amazing

Our house with moon up

Our house with moon up

Heaven on earth

Heaven on earth

Dawn is beginning to creep in

Dawn is beginning to creep in

Ana, up and about early in the morning

Ana, up and about early in the morning

Moon still refusing to go

Moon still refusing to go

Getting down to Rozella

Getting down to Rozella

Hung in mid air

Hung in mid air

Nice place to stay

Nice place to stay

Through the tea patch

Through the tea patch

Up close

Up close

Lush green

Lush green

Endless views of sacred mountain

Endless views of sacred mountain

Couldn't stop clicking away

Couldn’t stop clicking away

Ready to pluck?

Ready to pluck?

Getting across

Getting across

Good morning

Good morning

Being Sun, they must be going to classes

Being Sun, they must be going to classes

We reached downhill and took the car from where it was parked at Rozella Temple (just at the station). The monk there was very helpful and said the history of the temple runs 130 years back. He’s also a keen traveler and was fascinated by our tales. We then reached Ginigathena where the Nawalapitiya turn off is (it’s 13km from Ginigathena to Nawalapitiya, the road is in very good condition). Along the Nawalapitiya road we travelled passing Ambagamuwa. Just hearing the name clicked something in my mind and all of a sudden got it, the Ambagamuwa Sellipiya (Stone Writings).

It’s kinda in the middle between Ginigathena and N’Pitiya. The village is also called Sellipigama, must be due to the famous stone writings. It’s very easy to find about 400-500m from the main road and easily accessible by vehicle (Not Viking buses). Unfortunately the place is not preserved enough. The notice board is peeling away with it all the important details. There are two large rocks with plenty of writings on it. It’s the best of stone writings I’ve seen so far yet it’s on the verge of fading away. Apparently the archeological department has translated what’s in it and neglected to take proper care of them. We also felt that they should’ve displayed the full translation of the writings.

Apparently people have walked along the rocky surface where the writings are. Some have used sand to make out the writings. If they had put an iron railing around it with a raised platform along the edge, it’d save these precious writings for a long time. I’ve put down the summary of it below. (According to the peeling away notice at the complex). This is done by the King Vijayabahu I in the 11th century.

“He’s built alms halls and resting places from Rajarata till Sri Pada at every Gawwa to cater for the Maha Sangha and the public. This further states what procedures to follow to maintain these by the ministers and people.”

 

The plaque at the road

The plaque at the road

The complex and peeling notice boards

The complex and peeling notice boards

The main info.

The main info.

Manage to salvage this piece from the nearly invisible board

Manage to salvage this piece from the nearly invisible board

It's fading away and people have used sand to try and read the writings

It’s fading away and people have used sand to try and read the writings

Other side is clearly visible

Other side is clearly visible

Most of the letters are very close to what we're using today

Most of the letters are very close to what we’re using today

The biggest surface I've seen so far

The biggest surface I’ve seen so far

Tony's teaching Atha how to read them

Tony’s teaching Atha how to read them

Afterwards we went to Nawalapitiya and turn towards the Hospital Road (just remember the town center is bit complicated to go around due to one-ways). Then passing the huge Jayathilaka playground, turned towards Mapakanda Road that leads to Galboda Station. About halfway down, Tony noticed the Sudugala Falls and we stopped for a quick pic which turned out to be about an hour. It’s the Kanda Oya that makes this falls and in the end joins Mahaweli River. Unfortunately due to the drastic drought, the water levels were very low. To make matters worse they’d built a dam on top of the falls too. They were building a hotel near this and we got permission to get closer. They even have built a nice summer hut pretty close to the base pool.

Got back into our car and continued towards Galboda. The last bit of the road is (about 1-1.5km) is in very bad shape. Will be difficult by car but there’s another tarred road (we missed that) so be sure to look for it in case you’re travelling in a car. We met the friendly shop owners at the station and enjoyed a ginger plain tea. We had no plans to visit the Galboda falls but just wanted to take a look as they said it’s only a very short walk. Unfortunately it turned out to be a somewhat longer one (you know how they measure the distance). We reached the Galboda falls through the estate having to pay Rs. 20/- each. Just on cue there was Podi Menike coming to Galboda.

The trek is about 1-2km long through a gravel path which is in very bad shape. According to Ananda at Galboda shop, there are two power houses that feeds by the Galboda falls, so if there’s no rain, no much water. Reaching Galboda falls made me wanna cry coz she was nothing but two tiny lines of water on either side and in the middle the bare rock. Atha said, she’d look like Aberdeen when in full flow and I agreed.

After about half hour of taking pics of mainly the rock, we decided to head back to the rail track to continue our rail hike. It was when Sheham announced that his feet are in too bad a shape and couldn’t continue. He said he’d take the car to Nawalapitiya and wait there for us. It was also very appealing coz we had no idea as to how to come back to Galboda. It’d’ve wasted so much time too. Therefore we let Sheham go but not before he got a taste of the nearby tunnel No. 13. However, he just missed the best part of the hike. Coz just after No. 13, there was a rail bridge and No. 12 next to that, after that another bridge.

Video of Sudugala Falls

Video of Galboda Falls

 

This is what made us stop

This is what made us stop

Sudugala Ella, very little water

Sudugala Ella, very little water

Falling in parts

Falling in parts

This is the Kanda Oya

This is the Kanda Oya

Beautiful base pool for a dip

Beautiful base pool for a dip

Lower most part

Lower most part

Abandoned Galboda Tea Factory

Abandoned Galboda Tea Factory

What a waste?

What a waste?

Back here and passengers are waiting hopefully

Back here and passengers are waiting hopefully

How tricky this is

How tricky this is

Emergency procedures. In case they wanna derail the train, here's the place

Emergency procedures. In case they wanna derail the train, here’s the place

Ticket counter for Galboda Falls

Ticket counter for Galboda Falls

Train just passed by

Train just passed by

Tunnel No 13 seen from above

Tunnel No 13 seen from above

Plenty of mountains in the distance, is that Kabaragala in the far distance?

Plenty of mountains in the distance, is that Kabaragala in the far distance?

Water tanks are full to the brim

Water tanks are full to the brim

Kids following the mother

Kids following the mother

Very tough life

Very tough life

Turn left (Where Tony is peeping)

Turn left (Where Tony is peeping)

Very little water

Very little water

The sluice gates

The sluice gates

The water is diverted to the power house

The water is diverted to the power house

Finally a pic of the group

Finally a pic of the group

Deep conversation

Deep conversation

Shady path to the base of the falls

Shady path to the base of the falls

Warning!

Warning!

Had to crawl under these

Had to crawl under these

Sheham undecided whether to follow us or not

Sheham undecided whether to follow us or not

Crossing the waterway

Crossing the waterway

Ideal camping site

Ideal camping site

Nearly dead Galboda Falls

Nearly dead Galboda Falls

In full flow, this would resemble Aberdeen

In full flow, this would resemble Aberdeen

Extreme right

Extreme right

And the left

And the left

The base

The base

Wanna come again after the heavy rains

Wanna come again after the heavy rains

It was Tunnel-bridge-tunnel-bridge scenario. What a super view it offered coz looking through the tunnel no. 13, we could see the bridge and beyond that the entrance to the tunnel no. 12. This was the best of the whole journey and underneath the first bridge we saw one of the huge pipelines (about 3ft in diameter) carrying water downhill from Galboda Falls. Passing these two tunnels and bridges we continued till Penrose station. Just in front of it is a shop and decided to have snack there.

Having ordered some soft drinks, we kept munching on biscuits. It was well into lunch time and I felt like rice and curry. So I very mischievously asked the lady in the shop if she had any left over rice and curry that we can eat. She first thought I was kidding but having heard our story of rail hiking, asked if we’d like to have a packet of rice. She must’ve felt very sorry for us. The same thing happened during our first ever rail hike (You can read it here: Rail Hike Stage 01…) when we stopped at a shop after 9-arch bridge. But Tony and Atha playing the nice gentlemen declined that offer amid heavy protests from me.

However, her daughter, having been listening to all our conversation, called her mother in and whispered something we couldn’t hear. Then she came out and asked if we’d have Bread with Polos Curry. That was the magic word, Polos and I jumped in before Tony and Atha got a word in edgeways. And she brought delicious looking polos curry and sliced a whole loaf. The daughter served us with plates and water. We enjoyed the meal to the max. That curry was very tasty and she refused to charge us for it. They sold bananas for just Rs. 5/- each (in Colombo, one would’ve cost at least Rs. 15/-).

Tony insisted that I take a pic of him with the shop owner and Atha too wanted to join. I had no choice but to take it. So saying our thanks to her and the daughter, we went ahead towards Inguru Oya. The journey afterwards was pretty much uneventful except for the fact that we enjoyed every second of it. Sheham kept checking if we were close by and had decided to walk from Nawalapitiya uphill despite his foot.

Just before the Hydonford Station, we noticed the dam of Sudugala Falls. It’s pretty big built across the Kanda Oya and our intention of getting to the top was vanished when we saw a bunch of drunkards singing from the top of their voices. We reached the railway crossing of Mapakanda Road where Sheham was impatiently waiting. We walked back the rest of the journey crossing the mighty bridge across Mahaweli River. The water levels were very low yet people were bathing.

We got into the car drove off happily after yet another amazing experience. It was so nice to have been there.

Well folks, thanks for reading and hope you enjoyed it. There ends another episode of my fairy tales and rail hikes.

Take care and keep travelling.

 

Old house left behind

Old house left behind

Here we come

Here we come

Decipher the distance

Decipher the distance

Not so long now

Not so long now

Sheham the ghost

Sheham the ghost

Unique view

Unique view

Bridge and the tunnel 12

Bridge and the tunnel 12

Old couple

Old couple

The 3-foot diameter tunnel carrying the water downhill

The 3-foot diameter tunnel carrying the water downhill

Barely visible

Barely visible

Tony scared witless

Tony scared witless

Looking back at tunnel 13

Looking back at tunnel 13

First thought was "walking leaves"

First thought was “walking leaves”

Not easy to walk

Not easy to walk

Barely alive

Barely alive

Penrhos station (note the spelling)

Penrhos station (note the spelling)

Getting to the shop

Getting to the shop

The hospitable and friendly shop owner with two old boys

The hospitable and friendly shop owner with two old boys

Udarata Menike going uphill

Udarata Menike going uphill

Yet another tiny platform

Yet another tiny platform

Inguruoya can't be that far now

Inguruoya can’t be that far now

Oh, here we come

Oh, here we come

Not a big one

Not a big one

Plenty of bathing places along the railway line of Kanda Oya

Plenty of bathing places along the railway line of Kanda Oya

They're tapping it just like rubber (Pines)

They’re tapping it just like rubber (Pines)

The dam where the Sudugala Ella is

The dam where the Sudugala Ella is

Another tiny platform

Another tiny platform

See the works of stupid idiots

See the works of stupid idiots

They're resting at the side

They’re resting at the side

Laughing carriage

Laughing carriage

The massive bridge across Mahaweli

The massive bridge across Mahaweli

Joining two life styles

Joining two life styles

Mahaweli getting lower by the day

Mahaweli getting lower by the day

They're going home and so are we.

They’re going home and so are we.

Here’s the collection of Panos I always take during my journeys.

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Pano 9

Pano 9

Pano 10

Pano 10


From Top to Bottom of Sithawaka Kingdom – Pic Journey 5…

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Year and Month 22 Feb, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Hasitha and Me
Accommodation N/A
Transport Car
Activities Archaeology, Photography, Hiking, etc…
Weather Excellent (Too sunny)
Route Udahamulla->Avissawella->Maniyangama->Thalduwa->Avissawella->Salawa->Udahamulla
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Yakahatuwagala is a very strenuous hike but has steps made by concrete at the last 200m or so.
  • Pass the Maniyangama Temple and go towards Panawela for another 1km or so then turn at Viharakanda Road which is very narrow and as soon as you turn left towards it, there’s a bridge.
  • You can climb to about 2/5 of the mountain in a vehicle (not a low ground clearance one) which will save a lot of energy. However we had to climb the whole distance leaving our car at the base. The road is mainly paved with rocks and at points concreted paved.
  • Keep checking the directions from the villagers as there are a few paths to the top and some of them are not easy to find due to overgrown foliage.
  • Monks at Maniyangama temple are very jittery and won’t allow you to take pics of the image house due to two attempts by treasure hunters.
  • Same goes for Salawa Cave Temple as it’s kept under lock and key and the main temple is across the road and there’s no one to open the door and show you inside.
  • To go to Salawa Temple, just turn before Kosgama (going from Colombo) to your left along Akarawita Road for about a km.
  • Berandi Kovil is located just off the main road passing the main Sithawaka Bridge onto your right hand side. Again the caretaker at the place is a loose-cannon and bound to restrict you from taking pics.
  • The tomb of King Rajasinghe is about 1.5km away from Thalduwa Town along Thalduwa-Meewitigammana Road (turn left where the Avissawella-Hatton road forks at Thalduwa Junction).
  • The Yakahatuwagala is next to the Gala Balana Kanda (onto the right) seen from Barandi Kovil (looks like a scraped rocky surface).
  • If you’re to climb the Gala Balana Kanda, the path is before the Maniyangama Temple and Yakahatuwagala is after. Just be clear when asking for directions.
  • People say the Yakahatuwagala offers a better view than the Gala Balana Kanda coz it’s at a higher point.
  • It’s pretty easy to get lost doing the Yakahatuwagala. So be careful and if possible find a guy who can help you.
  • Don’t take any polythene or plastic and leave them behind.
  • Carry water with you, plenty of them.
  • Bear with the people, especially the monks, where there are paintings and statues are. This is because there have been numerous attempts at robbing our temples countrywide and they’re very suspicious (quite naturally) of anyone and everyone.

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema 
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

It was one of those spur-of-the-moment journeys that Ashan and I went in search of a bunch of waterfalls in Kegalle on 26 Dec but that ended in disaster as the waterfalls were nearly dried out due to drought and so-called mini hydro power plants. The only consolation was the Galgediyana Falls which had some water and we ended up at Avissawella down and sad.

Then we decided to visit the Berandi Kovil and went onto see the Palace and Dutch Fort at Sithawaka and the tomb of King Rajasinghe as well. I guess Ashan’s working on that report and we saw this gigantic rock from Berandi Kovil which is called the “Gala Balana Kanda”. We both wanted to climb this but the time was not right and decided to come another day.

It was on Tue 18 Feb when Hari called out of blue moon and asked if I could join them for a waterfall hike on 22-23 Feb. It is one of my favorite ones but due to not being able to take leave, I had to give up that idea. Gala Balana Kanda had always lurked in my mind and I wondered “What about climbing that on 22?”. I just didn’t wanna do it alone and then came Hasitha into the pic. He’s been calling me numerous times showing his interest to join with us for a trip and this looked like the best opening for a new partnership.

So I called him and suggested my plan, he hadn’t been to Berandi Kovil, Sithawaka Palace and Tomb of King Rajasinghe. It was perfect coz I knew we’d have enough time to cover them yet again as they are all very close to the main roads and won’t take an hour to do all three. I was anyway so sad about not being able to join Hari and the gang for the hike.

Hasi picked me from Embuldeniya at 5.30am sharp and it was the first I met him (Lakdasun made us friends a long time ago but not met even once). We went along the high level road (the level is not so high nowadays) towards Avissawella talking about this and that. Gosh, this is supposed to be a Pic Journey, not another of my mile-long fairy tales. So I’ll get down to business.

Tour Highlights:

1. Maniyangama RMV, Maniyangama

2. Yakahatuwagala, Avissawella-Panawala Road

3. Sithawaka Palace, Avissawella-Panawala Road

4. Tomb of King Rajasinghe, Thalduwa-Meewitigammana Road

5. Berandi Kovil, Thalduwa

6. Lenawara Cave Temple, Salawa

7. Collection of Panos

 

Maniyangama RMV

Take the Avissawella-Panawala road which runs closer to the Avissawella Court Complex for about 10km (From Avissawella Town). It’s on your left hand side with a notice board.

Note: According to the monk we spoke to, there had been two attempts at robbing the image house of this temple. Both the times those treasure hunters had damaged the arms of Buddha Statue and God Vishnu. At the last attempt, they had tied the monk and put a plaster across his mouth blocking the nose too. He’d nearly choked to death but fortunately one of the villagers had come in and rescued him. The villagers and monks are jittery and very suspicious of outsiders no matter who they are. The image house is kept under lock and key 24/7 and you might not even get to go in and have look let alone take pics. There’s an archaeological office nearby and you might have to get permission from them to take pics providing the monk is willing to show you.

There’s this concern about the paintings inside as they have done the wiring inside damaging lots of paintings. I wonder how come the archaeological department allowed something like that to happen. The roof is leaking and bat dung keeps falling down. They have to do something to preserve them and make sure those paintings are not destroyed by sheer carelessness.

It’s a very sad thing as so many genuine and keen travelers get affected by these kinda things. I know that we can’t put the blame on the temple or resident monks. At this rate, there will be a time when we won’t simply be able to go and see these historical places in the foreseeable future.

 

Here we are around 7.00am

Here we are around 7.00am

Got dustbins separating the garbage. Hope the collectors take them separately too without putting them all together

Got dustbins separating the garbage. Hope the collectors take them separately too without putting them all together

Very nice place

Very nice place

Trying to fight the drought

Trying to fight the drought

The first bit is a difficult climb

The first bit is a difficult climb

One of the few pics of inside the cave image house

One of the few pics of inside the cave image house

Paintings are peeling away

Paintings are peeling away

Few of the ones in better condition

Few of the ones in better condition

Beautifully carved

Beautifully carved

The head of it

The head of it

This I saw from the top of the Yakahatuwagala

This I saw from the top of the Yakahatuwagala

They're building a replica of Sri Pada, not open yet

They’re building a replica of Sri Pada, not open yet

View from there

View from there

Yakahatuwagala

My aim at first was to climb the Gala Balana Kanda but we ended up doing the taller brother of his, Yakahatuwagala. It’s next to the Gala Balana Kanda with a tree covered tiny rocky summit. However the villagers claim the view from Yakahatuwagala is a lot better than the Gala Balana Kanda coz it’s blocked by the Yakahatuwagala.

The path to climb Gala Balana Kanda is before the Maniyangala temple (unfortunately we simply couldn’t get the right directions) and the Yakahatuwagala is passing the Maniyangama Temple for another 1km or so along Panawala Road.

There’s a junction with a couple of tuk-tuks parked (I can’t remember the name but you can’t miss it) and from there you have to turn to your left. As soon as you turn to this narrow road, there’s a bridge. It’s called the Viharakanda 124B Grama Niladhari Office. Along this road travel about 100m and take the right rock-paved road uphill (remember you can’t drive a low ground clearance vehicle) for another 600-800m till the road ends. From there just get the directions from the villagers.

Unfortunately Hasitha couldn’t come all the way up coz he’s pulled his muscle.

Note: We saw plenty of cut down trees making this is a heaven of loggers. The lady where we parked our vehicle claimed that all the springs now have died due to this illegal wood business. It looks the villagers are doing this illegal activity depriving themselves of pure drinking water. What a disaster for them not to understand the value of the forest and those springs.

We also heard from one of the people that this intense drought is mainly due to Nelu Flowers. He claimed that when the Nelu Flowers bloom (every 7 or so years) the drought is too intense coz the nature tries to kill those plants. Interesting theory that was.

There had been a communications tower on top, thus the built steps. But now it’s been removed due to lightning affecting the nearby villagers according to some folks.

Documentary from the top of Yakahatuwagala

 

Keep an eye out for this, it's however not clearly visible from the main road

Keep an eye out for this, it’s however not clearly visible from the main road

The cute fella watching us park the car in his house

The cute fella watching us park the car in his house

Having climbed along the main road we saw this one

Having climbed along the main road we saw this one

One of the key land marks, take the path going uphill next to this (to your right) along a rocky slab

One of the key land marks, take the path going uphill next to this (to your right) along a rocky slab

When you come up, you'll meet this house

When you come up, you’ll meet this house

Walk to your right. The residents will give you the directions

Walk to your right. The residents will give you the directions

Unfinished toilet. take the left not the clear straight path

Unfinished toilet. take the left not the clear straight path

Colored resin

Colored resin

The path is too steep and we had to keep resting

The path is too steep and we had to keep resting

Out we came and walked along the tree line, but we should've turned to our left and walked till we met the base of the main rock

Out we came and walked along the tree line, but we should’ve turned to our left and walked till we met the base of the main rock

View from the open rocky surface

View from the open rocky surface

Split rocks

Split rocks

There's the top but no clear path to it

There’s the top but no clear path to it

Finally we managed to walk across and I got into a rock and found this to my surprise

Finally we managed to walk across and I got into a rock and found this to my surprise

The top

The top

Abandoned comms tower

Abandoned comms tower

The base of it

The base of it

Can see miles away but the scorching sun and haziness kept things looking gloomy

Can see miles away but the scorching sun and haziness kept things looking gloomy

Sithawaka Free Industrial Zone

Sithawaka Free Industrial Zone

Maniyangama Temple seen from the top. Zoomed in

Maniyangama Temple seen from the top. Zoomed in

The view is endless

The view is endless

Signs of the hand railing. The rock is the Gala Balana Kanda

Signs of the hand railing. The rock is the Gala Balana Kanda

Yeah, I did it.

Yeah, I did it.

The path. Looks scary

The path. Looks scary

Nice place to relax and if there's water, good for camping too

Nice place to relax and if there’s water, good for camping too

I just walked down the steps to see

I just walked down the steps to see

Cave like place

Cave like place

Right from the bottom

Right from the bottom

About midway

About midway

We then decided to climb down the same route coz it's very easy to lose the way

We then decided to climb down the same route coz it’s very easy to lose the way

Very prickly

Very prickly

Where you should turn, through those orangish bushes to the left

Where you should turn, through those orangish bushes to the left

Sithawaka Palace

This is on the Panawala Road about 1km from the Court Complex to your right coming from Avissawella. Keep an eye out for the Archaeological Notice.

 

Prominent notice

Prominent notice

The legend

The legend

Archaeological office

Archaeological office

That's a parrot like carving

That’s a parrot like carving

Hope you can read it

Hope you can read it

Here's the dug-out complex

Here’s the dug-out complex

Signs of excavation

Signs of excavation

Up close

Up close

See the huge blocks

See the huge blocks

Go deep and thick

Go deep and thick

They're nesting close by

They’re nesting close by

To the left is Gala Balana Kanda and to the right partially hidden is the Yakahatuwagala

To the left is Gala Balana Kanda and to the right partially hidden is the Yakahatuwagala

There it is

There it is

Tomb of King Rajasinghe

Take the Thalduwa Road and turn to your left from the town along Meewitigamman Road (Amithirigala Road) for about 1.5km. The archaeological sign is on the left. Unfortunately some idiot has put up a notice board nearly covering the archaeological sign, so do keep a close eye out for it.

 

Do you see the idiotic work of putting up a notice board covering the sign. There’s so much space to put up that darn board yet the fools have put it right there

Do you see the idiotic work of putting up a notice board covering the sign. There’s so much space to put up that darn board yet the fools have put it right there

Just off the main road

Just off the main road

The bridge is a bit shaky, especially the slabs

The bridge is a bit shaky, especially the slabs

The story

The story

Here it is

Here it is

Here lies the Sithawaka King Rajasinghe

Here lies the Sithawaka King Rajasinghe

Kelani Valley Club, another historical building in the area

Kelani Valley Club, another historical building in the area

Mammoth papaya

Mammoth papaya

I love those Ugurassa

I love those Ugurassa

Berandi Kovil

This is just passing the main bride at Thalduwa onto your right about 100m from the main road. The path is concrete paved and easily motorable. There is a car park too.

Just be warned the care taker there is very adamant and not allowing you to take pics. However, it was someone else when Ashan and I went to this place couple of months ago. That person was very good and let us take pics and even revealed some of the history but the current fella is only good at shouting you and waving the rule book at you.

 

Here we came

Here we came

The legend

The legend

From the front

From the front

It's now down in ruins

It’s now down in ruins

These fabulous carvings are still clearly visible

These fabulous carvings are still clearly visible

Must've been terrific when it was in good condition with pillars like these

Must’ve been terrific when it was in good condition with pillars like these

Nothing but empty

Nothing but empty

Look at the drainage system

Look at the drainage system

They're fading away

They’re fading away

Lotus petals

Lotus petals

Lots and lots of them

Lots and lots of them

This is along the side wall

This is along the side wall

Looks as if made of iron

Looks as if made of iron

The new team

The new team

Gala Balana Kanda to the left and Yakahatuwagala slightly taller to the right

Gala Balana Kanda to the left and Yakahatuwagala slightly taller to the right

From Thalduwa  bridge looking at Sithawaka Oya

From Thalduwa bridge looking at Sithawaka Oya

Searching for gems under official protection

Searching for gems under official protection

Lenawara Cave Temple

When coming from Avissawella, you have to turn to your right at Salawa junction which is passing Kosgama (both Ihala and Pahala Kosgama) along Akarawita Road. Salawa Hospital is also located along this road. About 1-1.5km away the temple is bordering the main road.

As usual, this image house too is under lock and key and the main temple is across the road some distance away so not a soul at sight most of the time.

 

Barely visible

Barely visible

Going towards the cave temple

Going towards the cave temple

The day is all about climbing

The day is all about climbing

One of my favorite ones

One of my favorite ones

From the cave complex

From the cave complex

Gigantic rock. But the image house is locked

Gigantic rock. But the image house is locked

Stupa

Stupa

Going round to the back and came across a flat rocky surface

Going round to the back and came across a flat rocky surface

On it were differently shaped holes like these

On it were differently shaped holes like these

Some more

Some more

An old cave where monks stayed

An old cave where monks stayed

There it says

There it says

 Interior

Interior

Going around the whole complex

Going around the whole complex

Panos:

I simply forgot to take a lot of panoramas as I was pre-occupied with enjoying the scenery and shooting a short documentary from the top of Yakahatuwagala.

 

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Laboring Up to the Sun-Deprived Lost World – Kohonawala…

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Year and Month 08-09 Mar, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew Athula, Tony, Sheham and Me
Accommodation Kohonawala Praja Shalawa cum Temple
Transport By Car/On Foot
Activities Charity Work, Photography, Hiking etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Dehiwala->Kottawa->Kolonnawa->Avissawella->Badulla->Kahataruppa->Urumeethenna->Kohonawala and return on the same road.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You can contact the Kohonawala Temple on 055-5653138 (Olaboduwe Dhammananda Thero).
  • You can check Ashan’s Report on Kohonawala here.
  • There are two roads to the village. (First: Via Madolsima and the other is via Kahataruppa)
  • Please contact the monk should you wanna contribute to the well-being of the villagers and offer any donations.
  • The terrain is difficult to tackle as it’s always either climbing up or down.
  • Leeches will be a problem especially when it rains. So protection will be required.
  • Be ready to cross the river if you go from Kahataruppa side. There’s no bridge and you have to wade through the Loggal Oya.
  • Avoid rainy season as it’ll be a nightmare with water making the paths muddy and extremely difficult to tackle.
  • Don’t drink water from the river coz the monk asked us not to saying it’s not good enough.
  • Please do something to help those villagers and the temple if you can.
  • Protect the environment and don’t leave any polythene or plastic behind.
  • The distance from Madolsima to Kohonawala according to the signpost is 9.6km but it’s 4.5-5km according to Ashan.
  • The account number of the temple is 116-2-001-4-0063593, BoC, Madolsima. (Please verify before donating with the monk.)
  • The directions to the village from Kahataruppa is as follows:

 

Take the Badulla-Passara Road and at 2km point turn to the left which is Hanwella Road. There’s also a sign of the Cullen Estate near the road name so you can’t miss it.

 

From there the Kahataruppa (which is also called Pela Bodhiya) is about 13.5km away. It’s a 4-way junction and take the right towards Hospital. (This road is carpeted and in very good condition)

 

Just passing the hospital is a bus stop with a left hand side road that runs to Urumeethenna about 3km away. (This road is concreted at places especially the first km or so. However not suitable for a low ground clearance vehicle.

 

We managed to do it in our Toyota Corolla Wagon nonetheless but it was thanks to expert driving of Sheham and Athula. Can’t recommend it). If you manage to go that far, the monk will arrange for you to leave your car at a house.

 

From Urumeethenna to Kohonawala Temple is about 5km and the Loggal Oya flows about 2.5-3km from the Urumeethenna village. (This road is in terrible condition. Would require a 4WD to tackle this.)

 

Crossing the river can be nightmarish if the water levels are high. So avoid it at all times. Tuk tuk will charge about Rs. 1000/- to go from Kahataruppa to the Loggal Oya which is very reasonable considering the status of the road.

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Ever since I read the article on “Kohonawala Village” on Mawbima paper, I was dreaming day and night to pay a visit. As you all know, Ashan beat me to it and it paved the way for a more comprehensive journey for us. My initial plan was to collect some money from the friends and give out exercise books and other stationery for the village kids but it had to be abandoned due to various issues. As a result, after a lot of deliberation, I decided to donate as many books as possible for the yet-to-be-open library at the Kohonawala Temple.

Having spoken to the Dhammananda Thero, who was the chief incumbent of the newly established Kohonawala Temple about one and half years ago, I got a list of the books that were required. Sheham was always willing to go and the two old fellas Uncle Tony and Grand Father Athula too joined in. As this was mainly a reconnaissance mission, I didn’t divulge the details to others. We four contributed and bought some books worth a few thousand rupees.

NG too wanted to join having heard from Ashan but there was no room for her unfortunately in the car. Despite that she too bought a lot of books and handed to us for the donation. Our plan was to leave on the 08th March and that’s exactly what we did.

The Story of Kohonawala:

—This is an isolated village completely surrounded by numerous mountains making it located in the bottom of a deep ravine. Badulla-Passara road seems to be running around this and a few other isolated villages. Namunukula-borne Loggal Oya flows between the border of Urumeethenna, the last village with main-line-supplied electricity, and Kohonawala before joining the mighty Mahaweli at Mahiyanganaya, making it further isolated.

The story behind the start of this village has many different variations. According to the folklore, they origins run far deep thousands of years backwards where the indigenous people of SL, the Veddhas, roamed this island at will. According to one old farmer, the leader of that Veddhas in the village was an elite archer. Once he won a contest of shooting an arrow through a golden ring thus getting the name “Ranpath Mudiyanselage” bestowed upon his clan. Surprisingly all the people in Kohonawala has that as their surname to-date. Everybody is called R.M. and their given name.

The second story is during the 1818 revolution, two people (sister and brother) ran away from the English hiding in this village. After some time there were kids born to them and the population grew larger since then. This too is a very possible one coz nearly everyone looks the same. They all have similar features and identical in many ways.

There are two routes to this stunningly beautiful village. One is from Kahataruppa about 15.5km away from Badulla Town and the other is from Madolsima about 41km from the Badulla town. The first one, Kahataruppa route is the sensible one as the travelling is relatively easier, especially when the Loggal Oya is in a calm and quiet mood.

The road from Kahataruppa is motorable up to Urumeethenna in a high ground clearance vehicle. From Urumeethenna it’s extremely difficult terrain but we saw a tuk tuk crawling right up to the river. The other one is from Madolsima close to the police station. There’s a sign board saying the Kohonawala Vidyala, 9.6km. This means a treacherous walk downhill to the base of the ravine (Loggal Oya Valley) where the Kohonawala village is located. (Note: According to Ashan who did this stretch some time ago, it’s about 4.5-5km in total. This 9.6km board apparently a wrong measurement)

The main income comes from the farming of paddy, pepper, vegetables and fruits. They are self-sufficient in many areas save for electricity and a proper road. Things like coconuts are hard to come by. Kohonawala School has classes up to grade 5 and above that means an 18+km up and down hike to Madolsima. Many kids don’t want to continue to do it for the next 6-8 years and leave their school life after grade 5.

There have been dramatic changes in the lifestyles of the villagers ever since Olaboduwe Dhammananda Thero arrived from Horana having seen the plight of these people. He had got ordained at the age of 16 and been a practical monk for the last 17 years. The people of the village had no idea what Dhamma means until he arrived. There were no religious rituals conducted let alone learning Dhamma.

We saw the undivided loyalty from many of the villagers to the temple and him. They treat him like their savior. Kohonawala doesn’t have a temple, and it’s temporary located at the Praja Shalawa and the monk had started building an image house and a temple from scratch with the help of various donors and villagers. Unfortunately, the going is at a snail’s speed but that hasn’t stopped the willpower of this courageous human being in a saffron robe.

He’s ordained 4 little boys and sent them for further studies to a Kalubowila Pirivena claiming that they need everything possible to improve the living conditions of the village after him. We found him to be very caring, helpful, courageous and cheerful person who has devoted his life for the well-being of these neglected people.

Anyhow, these were not without the typical obstacles that bar one’s path. He’d been repeatedly harassed by a very few people and even today, he’s living among threats and hardships. Among the many requests of the villagers, the main one is a bridge across the Loggal Oya and a better paved road to their village from Urumeethenna. Very long time ago, then divisional secretary had made a road but since his transfer from Lunugala (where Kohonawala belonged) to Passara things have taken a wrong path.

One of the interesting things about Kohonawala is that not only the people have names, but houses too bear some very thoughtfully given names such as: Bo Sevana, Thenne Gedara, Chamika Niwasa, etc.

If the powers-that-be can improve the road and build a bridge at least wide enough for a tuk-tuk and a Dimo Batta Lorry, it will help them sell their produce to the outside world easily making their lives more comfortable. We heard the farmers who grow paddy so far away from their homes (as far as 9-10km) and take them a whole day to bring a single sack of paddy to their homes. It means if they harvest 10 sackfuls of paddy, it will take them 10 days to bring them back to their homes unless they get laborers to do it paying Rs. 400/- a day.

So I bring these to you my friends who are willing to help others, and can get folks who have means to do so to get together and do something for these people in need.—

The Tour Highlights:

1. 10km of hike to Kohonawala Temple from Urumeethenna (up and down).

2. The village life of Kohonawala.

3. Treacherous 2km hike towards Madolsima with an elevation of about 450m.

4. Tasty yet unheard typical village foods.

 

Day 01

Our plan to leave Colombo at 1am got shattered when neither Tony nor I heard from Sheham. Both of our calls went unanswered and naturally we were worried coz he’d never before been late. Tony had even undressed and gone back to sleep when Sheham called around 2am.

I got a call from a relieved Tony and we finally left for Athula’s who was sound asleep amid all these jitters. Picking him we made good time and reached Beragala when the sun was creeping up above the eastern mountain tops. Buying a few egg rolls and snapping a few more pics of this wonderful dawn, we pushed towards Haputale. The whole valley to our right was being illuminated by the vivid rays of the morning sun and it really was breath taking.

Sheham had a headache so Atha took over the driving while he had a nap. Towards B’wela we were enveloped by the mist. Driving through the misty mountains we reached Badulla around 7.30am. We quickly bought loaves of bread for breakfast and hurriedly drove along Passara road till we came to Hanwella road, 2km away from Badulla. We called the monk who had been traveling overnight and reached Urumeethenna waiting for our arrival.

The Kahataruppa road is newly carpeted and in very good condition. Finally we reached the Pela Bodhiya at Kahataruppa where the Saturday fair was in full swing. It was a wonderful experience to go back in time and see a typical village fair. What is most extraordinary thing was there were mainly elderly people and kids. Grandparents still are coming to the fair with their grandchildren, that is the norm in our good old villages.

We bought some juicy looking nearly foot long bananas 12/- each. The shop owner had a change of heart when he figured we weren’t local, otherwise it’d have been only 10/-. However, in Colombo, it’d have easily cost double that price. Driving towards the hospital we reached a junction where there was a road branching out to the right. It looked nothing like the one we were on, just a normal gravel road with plenty of rocks and pit holes scattered throughout. When we asked if it was the road to Kohonawala, people started looking at us with “Are you crazy in your head?” written all over their faces. They all as in one declared that we can’t go to Kohonawala by car. “We’re not planning to go right up to the village in the car” I tried to pacify them, “only up to Urumeethenna” I further added.

They still looked aghast. “You can’t even go that far coz the road is terrible” they insisted. “Ok, we’ll do our best and go as far as possible” Sheham chimed in. We went downhill and the road was terrible but not terrible enough to turn us around. If it was anyone other than Sheham, he would have had a stroke then and there. After a bit the road was concrete paved and we began to relax but it lasted mere seconds than minutes as it was only a short length.

This is always the case in rural areas where they concrete very short lengths of the whole road but put up the politicians’ faces on boards claiming the credit. Those boards alone must be costing quite a lot of money and they could have put it to repair the road more. Typical stinking Sri Lankan politics at work. About a km down there was a Canter lorry parked and filling a huge water tank from a nearby source. The driver like all the others warned that we can’t go any further than a few hundred meters. He then asked if we knew the road. “We don’t and never been here before either” was all we could add. But Sheham and Atha pushed on and we were most of the time walking besides the car to reduce as much weight as possible and filling the mighty holes with rocks so that the car can go.

We met a kid who said the monk was waiting and we continued our agony. People were looking at us a group of clowns had come for the annual festival. I bet they’d never seen a car on that road. Finally after so much of maneuvering around we were at the Urumeethenna. Dhammananda thero was there with a few people to greet us and we were allowed to park in the shop. The shop owners served us with tea and allowed us to have breakfast before walking another 5km to the temple. While we were finishing the meal, there were 3 guys from Kohonawala, one of them a 10-year old kid named R. M. Samantha (remember they all have the same surname), to help us carry the stuff.

We had about 30+ books and some coconuts (very scarce in Kohonawala) along with some rations for the temple. Suddha and Asela took the stuff on to their shoulders while little Samantha carried the banana bag refusing all the way to have one. The walk was a sheer climb downhill and we were in no time soaked with sweat. The monk kept telling us about the village revealing plenty of secrets. Viyan Gala, the monumental rocky mountain was towering to the North East very much similar to the Lakegala in Meemure but not so majestic. The yet-to-be-built Kohonawala temple is technically located at the base of the Viyan Gala and the monk has plans to build a Stupa on the top as many people are trying to blast it in the hope of digging some treasures.

The reason the rock got its name Viyan Gala is the kings used to place those special huts on top. Destroying the mother nature and very important archeological sites for hunting treasures is the biggest epidemic in our country nowadays. We arrived at a Bo tree named Anpitiya Bo tree due to the famous religious ceremony of “An Adeema” done to pay homage for Lord Paththini. According to the monk and villagers, nobody is allowed to drink and drive through here. The vehicle will stop and won’t start until the driver is sober again. Passing that the road runs through sugar cane fields and the treacherous hike towards Madolsima was clearly visible. We could see the mango tree under which lies one of the mostly used Ambalama in the modern era.

For a typical villager, it takes about 2hrs to hike the 9km distance (bear in mind it’s 4.5-5km according to Ashan) with an elevation gain of about 600m. However the downhill journey takes only about an hour, half the time. Madolsima is the key town for these people, especially for kids who are studying above grade 5. They have to do this 5 days a week. Just imagine walking 18+km climbing up to 2000ft every day. My legs shudder just thinking about it. We finally got down to the base of the valley where Loggal Oya flows. She was very calm and not so deep owing to less rain this time. We saw signs of sand digging but they had put up a notice giving the permit holder’s name and number. Whether they stick to the rules, only the people know.

This is where they ask for a bridge to be built. The river is about 30ft wide but when in full flow will easily double that. If the authorities can build a bridge at least wide enough for a tuk tuk, it’ll be a turning point. Having crossed the river, we started ascending and reached the first house and stopped for some water. The house bore the typically designed front area with short mud walls around and mats laid out on top for people to sit. All the houses have got a solar panel each giving them a taste of what electricity really is. I’m not sure if they know how to maintain the panel and the battery. One of the donors had given a generator to the temple housed in the community hall temporarily. Most of the media and other visitors misunderstand when the monk ask for roofing sheets, cement and metal to build a temple as they think the community hall is the temple. Well, let me tell you it’s not and the officials have asked the monk to evacuate ASAP.

He can’t start a Sunday school or do Poya rituals as there are meetings held in the hall. So it’s a dire need and if he can get the temple finished, at least partially by Vesak, it’d be a great thing. This is a good opportunity for people celebrating Vesak in Colombo very lavishly to do something more worthwhile. All the people and organizations who are screaming for the well-being of Buddhism can start by helping these extremely remote temples. People in places like these really need a place to worship their religion and when they don’t get it it’s so much easy for those extremist groups to get in and manipulate them. There’s no point shouting religious conversions if they really do something for these people in the first place without waiting for those rogue cults to take advantage of their ignorance and helplessness. We were so impressed by the will power of Dhammananda thero as he was well off in his village temple at Horana but decided to defy the obstacles and go help those who in need.

Numerous times we asked Samantha to have a banana from the sack but he adamantly refused. The monk explained saying that people don’t eat outside their houses as there’s a female devil (Yakinni) that come to haunt them if they did. Not trusting their beliefs, the monk had gone out and had a pack of rice on a rock when he heard this blood curling howl of a woman. He said the pitch of the voice is so strong it can numb you can send you nuts. So he asked us no to eat anything till we got to the temple. Also we were asked not to drink water from the Oya as tendency is so great for us to get sick. There is another devil called Great Grandpa (Muththa). What he does is excrete on the floors of the houses. When there is human excretion on the floor, they say the Muththa has come. However ever since the temple started and they started playing Pirith over the loudspeakers, these ghost problems had reduced considerably.

We met a very old person who was introduced to us as the Secretary of Defense of Dhammananda thero as he stays in the temple protecting him. Coincidentally, he is the father of Suddha. Having sweat it out like never before we finally reached the community hall cum temple around 11am. Gosh what relief to be able to put down our baggage and rest our feet and backs properly. Asela immediately put a pot on the hearth boiling water for us to have a cuppa tea. The monk had arranged for a nearby house to boil some freshly dug 100% organic manioc with a unique Lunu Miris. The elderly man brought them immediately and set about serving us. You drink plain tea with sugar before meals and after a while have the meal, usually yams, and drink plain tea again without any sugar. It tastes grand, I can tell you folks.

The special Lunu Miris is made of 12 different varieties of chilies (Miris and Kochchi). You gotta see it with your own eyes guys. The dark mud green very thick broth like Lunu Miris is the hottest thing I’ve had to date and might well be for my whole life. It tastes so delicious and manioc disappeared in seconds. Unlike normal chilly flavor your tongue doesn’t get hot by this but the inner walls of your mouth. You just need a pinch of that to demolish a plate of any kind of yam. We devoured on the meal and the sugar-free plain tea which followed afterwards was heavenly. After the hearty meal my legs complained of lack of exercises. Now would you believe that? I’d been walking well over 6km laden with the baggage but the legs saying not enough. What crazy legs I’ve got.

There was this Mama who talked very passionately about Kohonawala, especially the hardships they have to undergo. He willingly offered to take us on a village tour and we jumped in. There were a lot of kids hanging around the temple coz the monk is so kind. He has started farming and boasts all kinds of green leaves, vegetables, yams and fruits. To be honest, he’s self-sufficient save for rice and coconuts. The villagers bring him the alms for both morning and lunch but he doesn’t need to depend on them. What he says is that there might be a time the villagers not able to provide him with food, so he should be able to find his own. He’s been to a Aranya Senasana (temple in the jungle) and claims that the Buddhist monks are taught everything from cooking to construction to sewing. That is taught so that they can survive with minimal facilities and improvise on what little is available. For us, he’s done just that, living on the bare minimum and improving what is available.

We went to the half-finished image house and foundation laid temple waiting for someone to do the needful. Samantha’s brother R. M. Vajira joined us too. The small shop that is the only one in the village belongs to Samantha’s and his father had given the land for the temple. He’s also a very capable native doctor. We went to see him but wasn’t at home so went further downhill. We came to another well-built house with a beautifully designed garden and went to say hello. This is where high ranking officials or females stay should they have to spend the night in the village. The aunty had just come from Kahataruppa fair and we saw her mute daughter. There are two mute people and a disabled kid for the whole village and Sheham said it could be due to marriages from the same family. However monk disagreed saying there were only 3 people like that and all the others are in very good health conditions. Nevertheless we noticed the identical facial features of the people. They all look more or less the same.

We didn’t see any youths, say age between 20-30 and when asked our guide Mama said they had all gone out of the village and not likely to return. Mama asked if we wanted to visit the disable 9-year old boy and we went to see him. What a tragedy it is. He’s been lying on his back ever since he was born and suffering from born deformation. The mother and sister were there and according to Mama, she has to stay 24/7 by him to attend to his needs. If anyone can donate a slanting wheel chair, that would be a great thing. However we heard that the government is giving the family Rs. 3000/- a month and even built a small house. His father had been admitted to Badulla hospital with fever making life even more difficult for them. That boy can’t speak, he keeps making a noise that none can figure out. Doctors have written him off claiming that can’t be cured. We gave some money for them and left towards a world’s end like place.

We had to walk along a rocky surface and when raining it’d be impossible. The whole area would turn into a giant waterfall during rains. At the end of was a sheer drop of about 400-500 feet. Mama said Suddha’s brother had fallen off while chasing a chameleon and died long ago. The place looked very dangerous and we did short video clips Mama telling us about the village and its history.

Video 1

Video 2

Then on the return journey we spotted a crystal clear rocky pool and Tony and I wanted to go for a dip. Samantha and Vajira looked excitedly while we jumped in and splashed like kids. Sheham and Atha couldn’t resist further and they jumped in too. The crystal clear cool water washed away our fatigue in seconds. Funnily the tiny fish residing in the pool started feeding on our skin softly gnawing at our feet. Tony was struggling as for him it was very tickling. He kept shouting amid laughter from all of us, even from kids. You can see the fish therapy video below.

Video of Fish Therapy

After a mind and soul lifting bath, we got back to the temple to see the monk cutting pumpkin leaves (Wattakka Dalu) for the dinner. There was a Kesel Muwa and it too was plucked while the first ever harvest of Thibbatu from his farm was readied with others. He sent Suddha to buy some Kerosene for the generator claiming he can’t keep us in the dark amid our heavy protests. It was so good to see how closely he associated with the villagers as they kept coming to see him after the day’s choirs. We saw one person carrying a 8-foot roofing sheet on his back from the river, about 2km all on his own. That’s their commitment for the temple.

The dinner was coming nicely. Sliced Kesel Muwa mixed with Thibbatu and tempered dried fish made my mouth water. Pumpkin leave mallung added those punchy flavors. To cool everything down was a sweet smelling Kiri Hodi. The rice was red and organic. We didn’t see any sign of chemicals. It tasted super tendering every morsel of food nursing our tasty buds. That was one the best meals I’d ever had. We saw the people coming down to the village from thousands of feet above from Madolsima. We tested our long range torches around the mountains and were ready to hit the sack by 9. It was a rollercoaster day and we had plans to climb up to the Ambalama on the following morning. The sleep came ever so slowly from the toes through the veins right up to the head and we were dead to the whole world. Not even Yakinni or Ghost of Muththa could wake us up from our reverie.

 

The sun peering above

The sun peering above

Patches of mist covering the view

Patches of mist covering the view

A couple on the hunt

A couple on the hunt

Looking out for some food

Looking out for some food

Going was pretty fast

Going was pretty fast

Just reached Urumeethenna

Just reached Urumeethenna

Above the trees is Viyangala

Above the trees is Viyangala

Look at those colors

Look at those colors

Asela to the extreme left and Suddha with the sack on his shoulders. Dhammananda Thero and next to him is little Samantha with the rest of my team

Asela to the extreme left and Suddha with the sack on his shoulders. Dhammananda Thero and next to him is little Samantha with the rest of my team

Suddha leading the way and you can see Pinky the dog in front

Suddha leading the way and you can see Pinky the dog in front

One of the things that I can't leave alone

One of the things that I can’t leave alone

The mountains above Kohonawala

The mountains above Kohonawala

The downhill journey was tiring than we thought

The downhill journey was tiring than we thought

Taking some paddy to the mill at Urumeethenna. Just imagine their plight

Taking some paddy to the mill at Urumeethenna. Just imagine their plight

Anpitiya Bodhiya

Anpitiya Bodhiya

Finally at Loggal Oya, see the sand digging point as well.

Finally at Loggal Oya, see the sand digging point as well.

The team taking a break before crossing the river

The team taking a break before crossing the river

Just think how it would be when the river is in full flow

Just think how it would be when the river is in full flow

Nice and calm for the moment

Nice and calm for the moment

Asela carrying the sack now

Asela carrying the sack now

Famous Madu with a flower

Famous Madu with a flower

Breathtaking view of Viyangala, the proposed Kohonawala temple lies of the base of her

Breathtaking view of Viyangala, the proposed Kohonawala temple lies of the base of her

Not ripe yet.

Not ripe yet.

Taking a much needed break. You can see the concrete patches and the wide road, they just need this done with a bridge across the river

Taking a much needed break. You can see the concrete patches and the wide road, they just need this done with a bridge across the river

Beyond Kahataruppa

Beyond Kahataruppa

The first house we stopped for a glass of water.

The first house we stopped for a glass of water.

Now very close to the temple.

Now very close to the temple.

The defense secretary of Dhammananda Thero and Suddha's father. He goes all the way to Madolsima just to buy a leaf of Tobacco

The defense secretary of Dhammananda Thero and Suddha’s father. He goes all the way to Madolsima just to buy a leaf of Tobacco

Community hall cum temple. We're finally here

Community hall cum temple. We’re finally here

Asela getting ready to boil some water

Asela getting ready to boil some water

From left: Samantha, his bro Vajira and Shanika. All with R.M. as their family name

From left: Samantha, his bro Vajira and Shanika. All with R.M. as their family name

Very thirsty

Very thirsty

Improvisation

Improvisation

The list of houses for alms for the whole month. Note the names of their houses (Click image to enlarge)

The list of houses for alms for the whole month. Note the names of their houses (Click image to enlarge)

Super macro with stunning colors

Super macro with stunning colors

Another beauty

Another beauty

Manioc with that unique Lunu Miris at the side

Manioc with that unique Lunu Miris at the side

He's showing us the path to Madolsima

He’s showing us the path to Madolsima

Unfinished Image house cum Library

Unfinished Image house cum Library

The Bo tree

The Bo tree

The temple at the base of Viyangala. Urgently need roofing sheets, metal and cement

The temple at the base of Viyangala. Urgently need roofing sheets, metal and cement

Vajira and Janthu the dog

Vajira and Janthu the dog

Majestic Viyangala

Majestic Viyangala

We saw hundreds of mangoes under most of the trees being rotten as they have no means to take them either to Kahataruppa or Madolsima for selling. What a waste?

We saw hundreds of mangoes under most of the trees being rotten as they have no means to take them either to Kahataruppa or Madolsima for selling. What a waste?

This is where the high ranking officials are staying if they have to stay overnight

This is where the high ranking officials are staying if they have to stay overnight

The lady of the house with me and the kids Samantha and Vajira, our guide Mama is behind

The lady of the house with me and the kids Samantha and Vajira, our guide Mama is behind

The family

The family

This house has only one old uncle and the rest of the household is not there. The boys have left the village

This house has only one old uncle and the rest of the household is not there. The boys have left the village

Going downhill

Going downhill

This well is giving water right throughout regardless of the weather

This well is giving water right throughout regardless of the weather

Just sitting next to the well

Just sitting next to the well

Akkapana flowers

Akkapana flowers

Being dried to make Kithul Piti

Being dried to make Kithul Piti

Here's the kid I referred to. Doesn't even a have a mattress. A wheel chair would be very welcome

Here’s the kid I referred to. Doesn’t even a have a mattress. A wheel chair would be very welcome

Helmalu System

Helmalu System

Going nice and strong

Going nice and strong

Water falling like steps

Water falling like steps

Not a lot of water

Not a lot of water

It'd turn out to be a giant waterfall when it's raining

It’d turn out to be a giant waterfall when it’s raining

The Kohonawala World's End, where one boy fell to his death

The Kohonawala World’s End, where one boy fell to his death

The team

The team

Crystal clear pond before we jumped in

Crystal clear pond before we jumped in

Tony's being tickled by the fish

Tony’s being tickled by the fish

Wisps of clouds kissing the summit of Viyangala

Wisps of clouds kissing the summit of Viyangala

Ordered to perfection

Ordered to perfection

Janthu who can't stay away from the monk

Janthu who can’t stay away from the monk

Lakmali

Lakmali

Freshly plucked Wattakka Dalu

Freshly plucked Wattakka Dalu

Cut to tiny pieces

Cut to tiny pieces

Just like a painting, ain't it?

Just like a painting, ain’t it?

Special kind of tomatoes

Special kind of tomatoes

Everything you need

Everything you need

One of the many varieties

One of the many varieties

Fresh Thibbatu being cooked with dried fish

Fresh Thibbatu being cooked with dried fish

A squirrel feeding on the juicy flowers

A squirrel feeding on the juicy flowers

What are they talking about?

What are they talking about?

Kesel Muwa added

Kesel Muwa added

I can't wait any more

I can’t wait any more

Wish I can bring the smell with the pic as well

Wish I can bring the smell with the pic as well

Perfect ending for a perfect day.

Perfect ending for a perfect day.

Day 2

As usual we beat the 5am alarm and were up and aimed our torches out hoping to get a glimpse of the misty mountain tops. The previous day the monk predicted that we might not get up till about 10am and would feel the tiredness. Little did he know we were hard core types, may not be as tough as the villagers but we could take a beating. Having folded the mats and sheets, we washed our faces while the morning came fast. Just so you know, the story about the sun rises at 9am and sets around 3-4pm is not correct. What really happens is the sun rays hit the village about 9am and leaves around 3-4pm. Most think it’s dark till late morning and then gets dark late afternoon but it’s not true. This happens as the whole village is located in a deep ravine completely surrounded by over 1000ft high mountains. So they block the sun rays reaching the village itself till about 9am and 3-4pm. Because of this there’s a gloominess hovering around the village. But it is not like many speculate. That was the main reason I wanted to spend overnight.

Samantha who was supposed to guide us up the hill early morning was fast asleep even at 6.30am and Suddha was mumbling in his sleep. So we decided to make it on our own and left at 6.35am. It’s not rocket science as the path was pretty much clear and we started ascending, we met few others heading uphill overtaking us with no problem. Previous evening Suddha claimed he takes about 45mins to reach the Ambalama so we figured it would take us about 2hrs. Walking continuously uphill took its toll on our knees and joints but we weren’t gonna give up that easy. Taking frequent breaks and drinking water we reached the place called Galpoththa in about an hour and I decided to call the temple and woke them up. We could clearly see the temple and when called the monk was surprised to see us getting there that quick. He said manioc curry was in order and to take care.

Then we heard the good news of Sri Lanka winning the Asia cup finally breaking their habit of making it to the final and losing it. I was sick of our team always being the bridesmaid. We all cheered for our boys about 850m above with a magnificent view of the mountains. We could clearly see the path we took from Urumeethenna and the Kahataruppa mountains. There was another temple about 9km away from the Kohonawala temple on top of a rock and accessible easily by road from Kahataruppa. We came across a serpent that was looking for a breakfast. Sheham, who had studied extensively about them, recognized it to be not poisonous. Viyan Gala rose majestically and morning sun rays lighted the tip of it beautifully. Sun was rising directly from Madolsima end. We finally reached the Ambalama by 8am, just under 1.5hrs. Our spirits rose 10ft at our achievement and we took a long break savoring this unprecedented beauty all around.

It was also very heart breaking to see what the villagers have written on the roof and walls claiming nobody cares about them or their well-being. Gosh, why can’t those politicians who go begging for their votes can’t do something for them. Just give them the road and the bridge across Loggal Oya, that’s all they ask for. Other things will follow automatically. Ironically, these people have to climb this 9km stretch to go and cast their votes too. Why on earth should they bother, I kept wondering. Previous evening we saw hundreds and thousands of mangoes that had fallen under the trees without being used. According to our guide Mama, they don’t have the means to take them either to Kahataruppa or Madolsima to sell as there is no proper road or a bridge. What a waste? We’re spending millions importing chemicals induced Apples, Oranges and Grapes while our own organic Mangoes rot under the trees in thousands. If those villagers can sell a mango for just 1 rupee, they could make a lot money and we’d get to buy those for a reasonable price.

Having taken a long break we decided to push a bit further towards the patch of turpentine trees. All in all, we hiked for 2km and climbed to a height of over 1000m from around 600m mark from the village. Madolsima was another 7km away with at least another 300-400m elevation. But we had no time to do the full stretch. In the meantime I decided to shoot a short video of the old musketeers going down.

Video of Old Musketeers

We retraced our steps back to the Ambalama where I shot another short documentary while Sheham and Atha went ahead of us.

Documentary from Kohonawala Ambalama

We witnessed the sun rays hitting the village around 9am from Ambalama. Climbing down wasn’t that easy due to the steepness of the path yet we made good time. On the way downhill we met more people going to Madolsima. We came across some pineapple plants with pineapples. Most of them were still green but one of them had that deep red which I adore. Unfortunately none of them was yet edible and we were ravenous after the laborious task. We reached the temple by 10am sharp, taking 3.5hrs to finish the whole journey. The manioc curry was in the works with a deep yellow and a hunger inviting smell. The monk was cutting a special kind of leaves called, if I’m not mistaken, Thamberiya that you don’t get in many other places. We were looking forward to this feast while Asela served us tea.

There was a meeting taking place at the community hall and we thought it would be best if we left before that. After the Buddha Poojah and monk had his lunch, we were invited for yet another sumptuous meal of Rice, Manioc Curry, Thibbatu Salad and Thamberiya Mallung. Wow, what a meal it was. There were a lot of people who had come to visit the monk and they were delighted to see us. They were very curious about our state of the art torches and cameras and kept patting them at every opportunity.

Finally it was time to bid farewell for this wonderful village and its people, especially the kindly monk who is trying really hard to make this a better place for the next generation. We didn’t forget to make a small donation to the construction of the temple. I know what’s going on many people’s minds now. Coz the same thing was in my mind before coming to this place and see it with my own eyes. Thanks to the things happening in the world nowadays we live in, we tend to look at things and people suspiciously. It’s natural you know coz this world is full of crooks, liars, cheaters, etc. We’ve been deceived and taken for granted countless times and now we just don’t trust anyone or anything. However we felt this monk is different and for real. He said so far he had received donations worth around 275,000/- both money and equipment. He’s keeping records should anyone wanna see. He’s the unofficial records keeper of the village as he has details of all the villagers. He’s even helped most of them to obtain NICs.

But from what we’ve seen I can tell you that they don’t need subsidies such as Samurdhi. All they need are a bridge, properly paved road and a temple with a Sunday school and a library. The monk had sent the 4 small monks for further studies at a Pirivena in Kalubowila coz they will be the future leaders for the village. I’ve given the bank account number of the temple should you wanna contribute. However if you are not comfortable giving money, you could always donate materials such as cement, 8-feet roofing sheets and metal. Further books for the library will be very welcome, they don’t have to be brand new, if you have books on you that are no more in use, please give them away to a place like this without offering them to the termites.

We walked back to the river while Samantha tagging along with us all the way coz he felt sad about our leaving. He kept asking when we’d be back. By the way Sheham has plans to help with solar lighting to the temple if possible. We recrossed the Loggal Oya having folded our shorts shorter. Samantha bid farewell to us and ran back to the lost world. Walking the rest of the journey to Urumeethenna left us gasping for air all the way. About half way through, there was a rustling on the side of the road. When inspected closely it turned out to be one the most poisonous snakes in the world, Russell’s Viper. It was so big about 3ft in length and as thick as an arm. We practically ran at the sight of it. Eventually we made in one piece to Urumeethenna and our faithful Toyota was waiting for us. Viyan Gala looked forlornly at our departure just like Lady Lakegala. Just thinking of her make me wanna see her again, soon. Who knows if she wants to see me too it’d happen sooner rather than later.

Old Folks Crossing the Loggal Oya

Well guys, there ends yet another fairy tale of mine and I guess this turned out longer than I first thought. I do hope I could do justice to the report and add that extra bit of flavor to Ashan’s first ever report. I’m glad I could bring their pressing issues to the awareness of the rest of the world. If they get those dreams fulfilled just like Meemure folks (Thanks to Ana and Wije) did, it would be a great relief for me too.

Thanks for reading and this is Sri signing off for now. Take care!

 

6.35am and they're bringing the morning alms for the monk

6.35am and they’re bringing the morning alms for the monk

Mother and son watching us go

Mother and son watching us go

She simply vanished

She simply vanished

Joining the two mountains

Joining the two mountains

Going uphill took its toll on the oldies

Going uphill took its toll on the oldies

Reminds me of beloved Meemure

Reminds me of beloved Meemure

Towards Kahataruppa

Towards Kahataruppa

Giant mango tree

Giant mango tree

Heen Bovitiya, very useful medicine in native treatments

Heen Bovitiya, very useful medicine in native treatments

The up we go, the clearer the view became

The up we go, the clearer the view became

Building a new home

Building a new home

This 500m is very steep at places nearly 70-degrees

This 500m is very steep at places nearly 70-degrees

Morning creativity

Morning creativity

"Come on Tony"

“Come on Tony”

I can't take my eyes off

I can’t take my eyes off

Madu, we missed having a curry out of these

Madu, we missed having a curry out of these

Can you see the zig-zag shape path? It's used by the people coming from the upper tea estates. Just can’t describe how steep it is

Can you see the zig-zag shape path? It’s used by the people coming from the upper tea estates. Just can’t describe how steep it is

No obstacles now

No obstacles now

No wind

No wind

Looking for some sunlight

Looking for some sunlight

Hurrraaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh!!!!!!

Hurrraaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh!!!!!!

Over the Ambalama

Over the Ambalama

The two houses close to each other are Samantha's and the one partially hidden is the community hall cum temple

The two houses close to each other are Samantha’s and the one partially hidden is the community hall cum temple

Here's the temple about 9km away from Kohonawala on top of a rock. Must be having a grand view

Here’s the temple about 9km away from Kohonawala on top of a rock. Must be having a grand view

Inside the Ambalama

Inside the Ambalama

One of the best snaps

One of the best snaps

Decided to go a bit more

Decided to go a bit more

Where we came down from Urumeethenna

Where we came down from Urumeethenna

Clouds making patterns all around

Clouds making patterns all around

We entered the turpentine patch

We entered the turpentine patch

Mountains kept us company all the way

Mountains kept us company all the way

Wow

Wow

Well let's turn around was the unanimous decision

Well let’s turn around was the unanimous decision

Rising to the sky

Rising to the sky

With the aid of sticks

With the aid of sticks

Huge fella

Huge fella

"Anybody home?"

“Anybody home?”

For them it's just another short journey

For them it’s just another short journey

Tony and the Calf

Tony and the Calf

Look at the pattern

Look at the pattern

Irresistible

Irresistible

Wish it was ripe enough

Wish it was ripe enough

They were accompanying her barking at us

They were accompanying her barking at us

Every house has a solar panel

Every house has a solar panel

Macro

Macro

One of the tastiest manioc curries ever

One of the tastiest manioc curries ever

Thamberiya Mallung

Thamberiya Mallung

It's all ready

It’s all ready

The top of incomplete image house is seen on our way back

The top of incomplete image house is seen on our way back

Looks can be pretty deceptive

Looks can be pretty deceptive

Who would've thought that we climbed nearly to the top of what's behind us?

Who would’ve thought that we climbed nearly to the top of what’s behind us?

"Ayyo, not anymore" Tony kept crying

“Ayyo, not anymore” Tony kept crying

Not very far now

Not very far now

Please enjoy the Panos too:

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano of the frustration of the villagers

Pano of the frustration of the villagers

More signs of frustration

More signs of frustration

Viyangala to the right

Viyangala to the right

Horton Plains Heroism (Part 01) – Scenic Walk along the Solitude Jeep Track

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Year and Month March, 2014 (17th to 19th)
Number of Days One & Half of days of a three day trip
Crew Two ( Me and my Friend Thenuka) Age 28-32
Accommodation Camping
Transport Public Transport, Tuk Tuk and endless Walking
Activities Relax walking on a scenic jeep track
Weather Sunny, Misty and Windy
Route Battaramulla -> Kaduwela -> Kalupahana -> Bambarakanda falls -> Horton Plains
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Please refer this trail guide while reading the report and use this before you drive or walk along this route
  • From Kalupahana to V- Cut the road is in good condition and road construction continues.
  • If you are driving along this track 4WD and an Experienced driver is a MUST. Otherwise you’ll be in real DANGER
  • Aid of GPS or a proper map is essential as you meet people rarely and their information also little complicated.
  • Carry enough water and Jeewani
  • Don’t Litter
  • Thanks to Prasanna ,Ashan, Sanketha and Sri for various support and information
Related Resources
  1. Attraction: Bambarakanda – Waterfalls, Mountains, adventure and scenic beauty
  2. Trail Guide: Scenic and adventure drive to Horton Plains from Kalupahana
Author HARINDA
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

When we were (Ashan, Sanketha and Me) climbing Pettigala I pointed my finger to a far end and asked Ashan whether it’s Horton plains. He replied me with a smile “Hariya Nogiya Thenna “. Surprised???? Yes for more than 30 years of my life I had never been to Horton Plains. So I was desperately needed to do HP ASAP and was in a hunger to do many trails within a short period. Within 3 days we ( Me and my friend Thenuka ) were able to cover five paths/trails of Horton Plains

  1. Kalupahana-HP jeep track
  2. Worlds end Circular trial
  3. Thotupola mountain trail
  4. Kirigalpottha mountain trail
  5. HP to Dayagama trail

As this was my first visit to Hp I wanted to do this in somewhat different (I mean special) manner. My basic plan was like this. In the first day, start from Bambarakanda falls and walk towards HP as much as possible (at least to pass Devil’s staircase) and camp in a suitable place. Then to reach HP early morning next day and do Circular trail and Thotupola trail then camp in campsite No 1 ( we booked earlier ) .After that do the Kirigalpottha last day and descend via Dayagama .

Everything was executed accordingly except camping inside the park (due to Bad weather)

This report concludes the first trail “Kalupahana HP jeep track” i.e. Scenic walk along the solitude jeep track

We left our home around 5.00 a.m. and took a Three-wheeler to Kaduwela. Then we Boarded to a Badulla Bus and got off at Galagama in order to buy some essential items. Then we picked another bus and got off at Kalupahana. After that we hired a three wheeler to V-cut. Surrounding view was splendid

View from Kalupahana

View from Kalupahana

Starting Point of the jeep track  (waypoint KH01)

Starting Point of the jeep track (waypoint KH01)

Nice views

Nice views

Paddy fields too

Paddy fields too

Bamarakanda falls – Low level of water (waypoint KH02)

Bamarakanda falls – Low level of water (waypoint KH02)

Bambarakanda,Wangedigla,Balathuuwa & Gonmolikanda in the Single frame

Bambarakanda,Wangedigla,Balathuuwa & Gonmolikanda in the Single frame

Endless mountains

Endless mountains

Roads were paved with these type of bricks and still men were working

Roads were paved with these type of bricks and still men were working

Famous V- CUT(waypoint KH06)

Famous V- CUT(waypoint KH06)

From here onwards we started our original hiking around 11.30 a.m. Although there were short cuts through tea fields we stuck to the main path to enjoy scenery without getting hacked. Since there were only two in our gang we had to carry considerable amount of weight including the tent, Gas cooker ( Given by our Friend Prasanna ) food, water etc.

Stream We crossed

Stream We crossed

This is the stream which feeds Bambarakanda falls

This is the stream which feeds Bambarakanda falls

There were short cuts but we chose the original track as we had ample time

There were short cuts but we chose the original track as we had ample time

After little while I showed my friend a foot path which leads to Bambarakanda falls. I was not interested to visit the top of Bambarakanda falls as I had done it once (from the bottom). But my friend was desperate in visiting same. So I obeyed to his request and did a detour to top of Bambarakanda falls after keeping our backpacks in a safe place

Descending through pine plots. He was happy

Descending through pine plots. He was happy

This place is somewhat below the top of Bambarakanda falls. But went there to get the thrilling experience. (Be careful though )

This place is somewhat below the top of Bambarakanda falls. But went there to get the thrilling experience. (Be careful though )

Water fall on the Top of B’Kanda Fall

Water fall on the Top of B’Kanda Fall

Top of the Bambarakanda falls

Top of the Bambarakanda falls

Then we came back to the jeep track and walked along the heavenly path

Path to heaven

Path to heaven

Oh……… This was a heaven

Oh……… This was a heaven

Lanka Ella seen far away

Lanka Ella seen far away

Flora

Flora

More views

More views

Estate houses

Estate houses

Tea+ mountains

Tea+ mountains

We had lunch here ( Biscuits+ cheese ) filled water bottles from nearby house ( from pipe lines )

We had lunch here ( Biscuits+ cheese ) filled water bottles from nearby house ( from pipe lines )

Old buildings

Old buildings

Kingdom of mountains

Kingdom of mountains

More views

More views

Then we came to a tricky place. One guy said that the left path is the way to Horton plains. We told him that we wanted to do Horton’s plains along the jeep track. But he didn’t realize our intentions and strongly said to follow the path left. But after walking in that path we realized path becoming narrow and it’s not a jeep track. May be there could be foot paths to Horton’s plains from that point. But our intention was to explore the jeep track. So we came back and chose the right path.

This was a tricky place. But As we had a GPS we went straight

This was a tricky place. But As we had a GPS we went straight

Land mark in the path

Land mark in the path

Tiny waterfall

Tiny waterfall

Another landmark

Another landmark

After this point we encountered a difficult descend

Isolated path

Isolated path

Udaweriya estate at far (As I guess)

Udaweriya estate at far (As I guess)

Y junction Mentioned in Trail guide(way point KH08) picked the  Right Path

Y junction Mentioned in Trail guide(way point KH08) picked the Right Path

The Devil’s Staircase

The Devil’s Staircase

The Devil

The Devil

Wow

Wow

You should go there and experience it………………

You should go there and experience it………………

Bridge before the important junction

Bridge before the important junction

Land mark

Land mark

flora

flora

More

More

A place where we had shelter in a drizzle

A place where we had shelter in a drizzle

Difficult for a driver but Scenic for a walker

Difficult for a driver but Scenic for a walker

Around 5.00 p.m. we reached the most important junction of the jeep track .According to the trail guide the road left will take you to HP ( 3 KM )which very difficult for a driver. We took the left path and proceeded in the isolated scenic road searching a suitable place to camp. As the trail was not broad and surrounded by tea fields finding a camping place was not easy. After nearly 1 km from the junction (near a small water tank) we found a suitable place for camping along a small foot path. Even that place had marginal ground space to pitch a tent. After pitching the tent we cooked noodles for dinner and settled in.

It was windy but we had already tied our tents well using stones. Although it was a tea estate there were no houses nearby and no one was traveling. We had a nice chat till night and went to sleep. Heavy winds hit the tent throughout the night also temperature was remarkably low but it was a rewarding experience to flee away from our usual hustle bustle life.

Trail division – Starting the Most difficult part of jeep track ( Go left ) waypoint KH 11

Trail division – Starting the Most difficult part of jeep track ( Go left ) waypoint KH 11

Going up……..No civilization ………..my favourite section of the trail

Going up……..No civilization ………..my favourite section of the trail

Dangerous bends

Dangerous bends

Our tent ….Nearly 30m away from the jeep track

Our tent ….Nearly 30m away from the jeep track

Cooking was easy thanks to Prasanna’s Gas cooker

Cooking was easy thanks to Prasanna’s Gas cooker

We woke up early in the morning and got ready for the final section of the journey around 6.50 a.m. Morning mist had invaded the path and it was a holly experience for us to walk along the path. Sometimes I felt whether these estate works are managed by ghosts as we didn’t see any human till we reached the park. Little by little we were reaching the border of the park. Only decision point was the T junction which was described in the Trail guide and we took the left path. By 7.45 a.m. we reached the Ohiya – Hp paved road

Bed Tea

Bed Tea

Mountains covered with mist

Mountains covered with mist

Here we Go again

Here we Go again

T junction ………..Took the left path  (waypoint KH12)

T junction ………..Took the left path (waypoint KH12)

Oh this was my favourite bend

Oh this was my favourite bend

Some white marks in order to ease the driving under misty conditions

Some white marks in order to ease the driving under misty conditions

Why not have a relaxing break……….It was rewarding

Why not have a relaxing break……….It was rewarding

Seen this for the first time

Seen this for the first time

FD land marks

FD land marks

End of the estate and beginning of the forest

End of the estate and beginning of the forest

Here we are at OHIYA-HP Road ( Not to mention to take the left road )

Here we are at OHIYA-HP Road ( Not to mention to take the left road )

Remember the land mark (waypoint KH13)

Remember the land mark (waypoint KH13)

Path was so beautiful and we were forced by nature to walk the next 1.5 km to the ticketing office. While enjoying the scenery we reached the ticketing office around 8.15 a.m.

So this was a historic achievement for me to be at Horton’s plains for the first time. I really enjoyed this journey as well as the four other trails described in next report. Hope you enjoyed the report and till I meet you in the next report Good Bye

Misty path continues

Misty path continues

These were very common

These were very common

Life on life

Life on life

Near park entrance

Near park entrance

Here how HARIYA Celebrates his First arrival to HP

Here how HARIYA Celebrates his First arrival to HP

Thanks for reading!

 

Four days in chilly up country

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Year and Month January, 2014
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew Three (myself, wife and son)
Accommodation
Transport Car
Activities A family trip, Waterfall hunting, visiting Lipton’s Seat
Weather Heavy/slight rains first two days only
Route Gampaha -> Urapola -> Awissawella -> kuruvita -> Rathnapura -> Wewelwatte -> Balangoda -> Pumbahinna -> Kalthota -> A4 -> Beragala -> Haputhale -> Lipton Seat -> Poonagala -> Koslanda -> Beragala -> Kalupahana -> Bambarakanda -> A4 -> Gampaha
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Best period to visit Lipton’s seat is April/May
  • Be ready for leech attacks near waterfalls.

** Special thanks ** to Priyanjan for helping me to plan my visit to Lipton’s seat

Author Wije
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

My elder son and daughter did not join due to their busy schedules. I started around 5.30 am on Poya day with my wife and younger son and reached Eheliyagoda and turned left along Dehiowita road and reached Eheliyagoda Rubber estate where you can see Bisodola Ella.

Road through Eheliyagoda rubber estate

Road through Eheliyagoda rubber estate

Bisodola Ella, didn't have much water

Bisodola Ella, didn’t have much water

Then we came back to A4 and turned left before Kuruvita junction to reach Bopath Ella.

Bopath Ella and the base pool

Bopath Ella and the base pool

It's gorgeous

It’s gorgeous

Driving another 2 KM further up along this road we reached the turn off to Dodan fall

Sign board at turn off to Dodan fall

Sign board at turn off to Dodan fall

Dodan fall did not have much water

Dodan fall did not have much water

Then we came back to Kuruvita junction and turned left and continued along Erathna road and reached Diva Guhawa. Lord Buddha had come to this place with 500 priests, while he was visiting Sri Pada.

Diva guhawa, also called Bata thota lena

Diva guhawa, also called Bata thota lena – Click Image to Enlarge

You have to climb nearly 500 steps

You have to climb nearly 500 steps

Sthupa inside the cave

Sthupa inside the cave

Diva Guhawa

Diva Guhawa

We came back along Erathna road and turned left before kuruwita junction, towards Batadombalena. About 5 KM along this road, we reached Arambe Ella just by the side of the road.

Arambe Ella

Arambe Ella

Lower part of Arambe Ella

Lower part of Arambe Ella

Then we came to Rathnapura and took the road along Siripagama. About 7 KM along this road we turned right at Malwala junction to take the Wewelwatte road.

Aanda Ella was the first waterfall we came across on this road. Another few kilometers ahead there were two water falls in close proximity.

Aanda Ella

Aanda Ella

Both falls are within 50 meters

Both falls are within 50 meters

Katu Kithul Ella

Katu Kithul Ella

Hal Ella

Hal Ella

Then we drove about another 5 KM on this road where this gorgeous Dehena ella was seen just by the side of the road.

Dehena Ella seen from the main road

Dehena Ella seen from the main road

Road to Alupola Ella

Road to Alupola Ella – Click Image to Enlarge

Then we came to Wewelwatte junction and turned left and drove about 3 km to reach Alupola Ella. As we turned to Alupola road, it started raining and we missed the waterfall and gone passing it and turned back to see this glorious waterfall.

Road side beauties along Alupola road

Road side beauties along Alupola road

Capturing Alupola Ella

Capturing Alupola Ella

On our way back from Alupola we could see the Beruwatte fall, far away.

Alupola Ella near the base pool

Alupola Ella near the base pool

Beruwatte fall zoomed, seen from the Alupola road through thick mist

Beruwatte fall zoomed, seen from the Alupola road through thick mist

From Wewelwatte junction we drove about another 2 km and reached this massive waterfall.

Beruwatte fall

Beruwatte fall

Gushing water at the base pool

Gushing water at the base pool

After a heavy battle with leeches at Beruwatte fall, we proceeded further towards Rassagala and there was another beautiful one just by the side of the road which I thought was the Wewel Ella.

Upper part of Wewel Ella

Upper part of Wewel Ella

Lower part of the fall

Lower part of the fall

Then we noted another small cascade along the main road, but when reached it only recognized that it is just a water channel with a Peela. Few more kilo meters ahead, we came across another tiny waterfall seen far away through paddy fields.

Water channel

Water channel

Seen far away through paddy fields

Seen far away through paddy fields

It is the Dodamgallena Ella or may be Demala Ella. Then we proceeded towards Rassagala

Dodamgallena/Demala Ella zoomed

Dodamgallena/Demala Ella zoomed

5.30 pm near Rassagala

5.30 pm near Rassagala

That was the last waterfall along Wewelwatte road and we came to ‘Terico Resort’ at Belihuloya. The Belihul Oya is running just by the side of this hotel.

Belihul Oya as seen from the room

Belihul Oya as seen from the room

There were plenty of open areas like this

There were plenty of open areas like this

After breakfast we left the resort and came to Pambahinna along A4 and turned right towards Kalthota. After passing Sabaragamuwa University we reached Samanala wewa dam and stopped for a while to see the famous leak.

Leaking water of the dam

Leaking water of the dam

This leak is a blessing for villagers

This leak is a blessing for villagers

This leak is a serious engineering blunder in Sri Lankan history which caused this project to be a failure. However, this leak provides a continuous supply of water to people living there and for them, the leak is indeed a blessing.

Samanala wewa Dam

Samanala wewa Dam

Road to Kalthota through thick forest

Road to Kalthota through thick forest

After driving through these lush greeneries for about 30 minutes, we came to Rajawaka and drove about 5 KM to reach Thanjantenna town where we turned right to reach Kuragala. It was 11.30 am and not the best time to climb Kuragala. So we gave up the idea and came to our next place on the list, Duvili Ella.

We had to walk about 1½ KM from the ticketing centre as the road was under repair.

And from there another exactly 362 steps down, to reach the waterfall.

362 steps to reach the waterfall

362 steps to reach the waterfall

Kalthota Duvili Ella

Kalthota Duvili Ella

There is a walking track where you can reach the top of the fall.

It’s really eye catching

It’s really eye catching

Top of the fall, not a safe place for bathing

Top of the fall, not a safe place for bathing

Top of the fall where Duvili Ella begins

Top of the fall where Duvili Ella begins

Endless views

Endless views

Then we came to Kalthota junction and took the right turn. We passed the Budugala Archeological site and the Budugala viharaya. Driving few more kilo meters we saw the Diyavini Ella.

Diyavini Ella seen from the main road

Diyavini Ella seen from the main road

Diyavini Ella zoomed

Diyavini Ella zoomed

Huge pipes carrying water from Samamalawewa reservoir

Huge pipes carrying water from Samamalawewa reservoir

Then we came to Haputhale through A4 and reached Cues Tar Inn. After a quick wash we went to Bandarawela to meet our veteran hiker Priyanjan and that was the first time I met him.

View from the hotel

View from the hotel

View from the hotel

View from the hotel

Next morning we left to Lipton’s seat. It’s a 19 KM journey through Dambetenna estate and one of the best scenic roads I have ever come across. We came to the Kelburne point which is about 5 KM from Haputhale, where you can get a unique view towards down south.

Kelburne Point

Kelburne Point

View from Kelburne point

View from Kelburne point

    Along the road to Lipton's seat

Along the road to Lipton’s seat

Along the road to Lipton's seat

Along the road to Lipton’s seat

Road through Dambetenna estate

Road through Dambetenna estate

Dambetenna tea estate

Dambetenna tea estate

After 1½ hrs drive through these lush plantation, on a very narrow road we came to Lipton’s seat. We were the first to arrive there, but the place got crowded within about half an hour.

Lipton's seat

Lipton’s seat

Place got crowded very soon

Place got crowded very soon

History of Lipton's seat

History of Lipton’s seat – Click Image to Enlarge

Thick mist around Lipton's seat

Thick mist around Lipton’s seat

We couldn’t see anything except the thick mist. Although we stayed there for more than one hour, there wasn’t any sign of a clear view.

So we left the place desperately and came back on the same road. Halfway we turned towards the Nayabedda estate. Passing Nayabedda factory we came to Bandarawela/Poonagala road and turned towards Poonagla. It’s 18 KM to Poonagala and a very scenic road through several tea estates. Poonagala is a small town and majority of people are estate Tamils. From Poonagala we came towards Koslanda which is another 14 KM drive. Before reaching Koslanda, we stopped at Makaldeniya junction

Seasonal fall along Poonagala road

Seasonal fall along Poonagala road

Found a comfortable seat in heaven

Found a comfortable seat in heaven

A massacre… Very soon there will be hotel here

A massacre… Very soon there will be hotel here

Poonagala International cricket stadium

Poonagala International cricket stadium

We took the left turn from Makaldeniya junction and there was a hotel but it was closed. I wanted to get to the top of Diyaluma but there wasn’t any trace of a walking track. This is a very lonely place and there wasn’t anyone to get any information. Wasting about thirty minutes walking up and down I gave up the idea and came back to Makaldeniya junciton and proceeded towards Koslanda. The road to koslanda is very narrow and steep with a number of hair pin bends.

Steep hair pin bends

Steep hair pin bends

and narrow roads

and narrow roads

Finally came to Diyaluma falls which is the 2nd highest with a height of 220 meters

Diyaluma fall

Diyaluma fall

Diyaluma fall

Diyaluma fall

From Diyaluma, we came to Bambarakanda which is the highest waterfall of Sri Lanka, with a height of 263 meters.

We came across few seasonal cascades along Koslanda/Beragala road.

Along Koslanda/Beragala road

Along Koslanda/Beragala road

Along Koslanda/Beragala road

Along Koslanda/Beragala road

We came to Bambarakanda Holiday Resort around 4 pm. After a chat with Mrs. Sera Mayakaduwa, I left to Bambarakanda water fall with my son. As I reached the turnoff to the waterfall from the main road, I was shocked and miserable to see the ‘development’ of the area. Now there are concrete steps built up to the base pool with an observation deck. The walk through those pine forest, tumbling, crawling and the struggle with leeches are no more there. Frankly, Bambarakanda is a concrete jungle now. They have spent 16 Million rupees so far and the project is still underway

Bambarakanda seen from the resort

Bambarakanda seen from the resort

Observation deck

Observation deck

Base pool as seen from the observation deck

Base pool as seen from the observation deck

Next day morning I had a walk along the Bambarakanda/Ohiya trail and the road was lightened with early morning rays.

Bambarakanda/Ohiya trail at 6.00 am

Bambarakanda/Ohiya trail at 6.00 am

Road is paved up to the V cut

Road is paved up to the V cut

After a heavy breakfast with rotty we started the hike to Lanka ella. Mrs.Mayakaduwa’s son in law ‘Lanka’ also joined with us. First part of the trail was through a pine forest.

First part is to climb through this pine forest

First part is to climb through this pine forest

Bambarakanda/Kalupahana road seen from the trail

Bambarakanda/Kalupahana road seen from the trail

Then we had to pass a thick Maana forest where there wasn’t any clear path but we managed to find the trail and finally reached this magnificent fall.

On the way to Lanka Ella

On the way to Lanka Ella

finally reached this gorgeous Lanka Ella

finally reached this gorgeous Lanka Ella

The base pool resembles the map of Sri Lanka, hence the name ‘Lanka Ella’ derived.

Shape of the base pool

Shape of the base pool

Right end of the base pool

Right end of the base pool

Then we came back to Bambarakanda Resort and said good bye to Sera Mayakaduwa and drove towards Rathnapura. On the way we saw the Surathali Ella from the main road. We walked about 100 meters through a foot path to reach the base pool.

Surathali Ella seen from A4

Surathali Ella seen from A4

Surathali Ella at base pool

Surathali Ella at base pool

Then we came to Pelmadulla and turned along Kuttapitiya Road to reach Kirindiella. It is about 7 KM drive from Pelmadulla.

Kirindi Ella seen from observation deck

Kirindi Ella seen from observation deck

What an amazing sight

What an amazing sight

It was almost 9.00 pm when we reached home and yet another memorable family trip.

 

Living in My Dream – Meemure & Gala Muduna…

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Year and Month 29-30 Mar, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew 2 (Athula and Me)
Accommodation Nava Mama’s Camp Site, Meemure
Transport By Jeep
Activities Photography, Hiking, Camping, Waterfall Hunting, Village Experience, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Kollonnawa->Kaduwela->Kandy->Hunnasgiriya->Meemure via Loolwatte and Kaikawala and back on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You can contact Nava Mama on 081-3804191.
  • The Knuckles Conservation Centre at Deanston is now asking the tourists who roam into the jungle to buy tickets. This is a very recent development and you can always contact Nava Mama for more info. You can either buy tickets on your way or Nava Mama will do it for you. The fine is pretty hefty, around Rs. 10,000/- if caught without a permit inside the jungle.
  • Nava mama is the ideal companion to take with you on your adventures to Meemure and Knuckles Mountain Range coz he’s like a walking Encyclopedia full of knowledge and interesting stories. You won’t feel tired or walking a long distance when listening to all that.
  • Camp Site is fully equipped with comfortable and weather-proof tents, mattresses, pillows, etc.
  • There are facilities for BBQ. You can either take your own stuff or Nava Mama will fix them for you.
  • Do take precaution against leeches if it’s a rainy period. When there’s no rain, there’re hardly any leeches.
  • Take a container or two with you for water. Knuckles boast the tastiest of water in the whole world and there are ample water holes and waterways for refills. Plenty of Jeewani would be the ideal solution but don’t leave the polythene wrappers behind.
  • Do care for the Nature and Wildlife. Don’t do anything harmful to them.
  • Respect the villagers and their privacy. Most of them are very shy.
  • Most importantly, if you’re walking through a paddy field, be sure to check with the farmers. They don’t like anyone trampling along those pathways (Niyara) as it’s a back-breaking task to build them.
  • Don’t take alcohol or cigarettes with you. Remember you’re going there to enjoy the nature, not to get drunk and behave like madmen. (There was a group of University Students who drank throughout the night and sang from the top of their voices keeping the whole neighborhood up till 2.30am.)
  • Always, follow the advice of the villagers, especially Nava Mama. They know best and by listening to them, you’ll have a safe and happy stay.
  • I’ve put down a few pleas from the people of Gala Muduna. If you can, do something to help them. You can reach them through Nava Mama.
  • The road from Meemure to Loolwatte is under construction. Low ground clearance vehicles will have a tough time maneuvering the pot holes and raised ledges. It’s not impossible, but a little tough and need more careful and skillful driving.
  • Do take a look at my first ever journey to this beautiful place. “Jaunting off to the Most Beautiful Village on Earth – Meemure”
  • You can check my second visit report “Long Range Reconnaissance Patrol” here.

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hiya folks, I’m back with yet another fairy tale of mine. This time it’s from my beloved Meemure, where I can’t seem to get enough of. Going back to Meemure was a very sudden plan coz while we were touring Kohonawala on 08-09 Mar; we came across Viyan Gala, another uniquely pointed shape mountain. She reminded me of Lakegala and I kept thinking about her right throughout the journey. At the end, while we were laboring up the hill towards Urumeethenna crossing the Loggal Oya, I made a vow to go see her ASAP.

Our initial plan to visit Meemure on 15-16 March got cancelled as Hasitha became terribly sick at the eleventh hour leaving us no time for a plan B. I couldn’t bear the thought of not seeing Lakegala and suggested Atha to go there on 29-30 March. He shared my views on not wasting our precious time on useless elections and doing something worthwhile. We both were determined to do this by all means. Most of the guys I invited had something or other and in the end and not surprisingly it was down to him and me.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Dandenikumbura
  2. Gala Muduna
  3. Kahatagahawela Falls
  4. Iththa Gala
  5. Wannimana
  6. Camping

Day 01

We left Colombo early around 1.30am and reached Hunnasgiriya around 5.00am having used most of the isolated roads to our advantage making good time. We both were ravenous but most of the shops had nothing but left overs of the previous night so had to settle for some coffee in the end. I called Nava Mama waking him up to inform that we were in Hunnasgiriya. The sky towards Ududumbara was being painted vividly with bright orange, red, crimson, yellow and blue. It’s one of the many types of scenery that one will never get fed up. Sunrise and Sunset are always, no matter from where, mind blowing and I cherish every second of it.

We drove along Meemure road while the morning sun was trying to penetrate the woods. It was a pleasure to be away from the concrete jungle and breathe in some fresh mountain air. They’re widening the road by cutting at the sides. The road is in bad shape due to this and most of the road is full of pot holes and ledges. Hopefully this will be finished fairly soon. It’s about 15km from Hunnasgiriya to Loolwatte and further 17-18km to Meemure. The road after Loolwatte is in fairly good shape except a couple of bad patches where the tarred pieces had been removed by the passing waterways.

We stopped to take a few pics of the morning sky painted with gorgeous colors. The shadows of trees added to the beauty with the contours of the mountains in the distance. I wouldn’t have minded walking along this road at this time as it felt heavenly. However, time was a luxury we couldn’t afford at the time as we had planned something unprecedented even in Nava Mama’s standards. KCC at Deanston was still in darkness and no sign of activity there. It’d’ve been grand if we could be at the mini world’s end when the sun is rising. We could’ve got a super panoramic view towards Ududumbara, Hasalaka and Mahiyanganaya. I had to restrain myself so hard not to venture into the trail without this early and there was no way to get permission.

Passing Loolwatte tea shop made me crave for yet another coffee but we simply wanted to get to Meemure as soon as we could and start on our first hike. We stopped nonetheless at Corbet’s Gap for a few pics of the mountains which were rising majestically to a clear blue sky. From then on, it was a downhill journey along a circular road that entwines the mountains like a giant snake. It’d already gone by 6.30am and we hurried. There were a few places where the road was terrible but we had a somewhat higher ground clearance enabling us to pass without incident. Reaching Kaikawala concrete bridge, we saw a monk who’s going collecting his meals (Pindawatha Wadinawa). He simply stepped out of the road, without even looking back and kept looking downwards till we passed.

There are a few monks who stay meditating in this part of SL as it’s so beautiful and calm. We even came across one such place deep inside the jungle on our way back from Gala Muduna later in the day. Closer to Nava mama’s house, we got the first glimpse of the gorgeous Lakegala. Whoa, what a beauty she is despite being continuously harassed by unforgiving sunlight and intermittent rains.

Finally, we reached Nava mama’s house around 7.00am and he welcomed us very warmly. His wife was already making tea for us. He sure was glad to see us and everything was the same as we’d left before. However, he’s built couple of extra washrooms and added some parking space for vehicles. This is good news for the travelers. Dinky, the faithful doggy of Nava mama is still there barking at any strangers.

I felt so much like coming home coz Meemure is that close to my heart. We devoured on the delicious breakfast and got ready to hit the road. Around 8.30am we left for yet another unforgettable and long hike in my life. We reached the symbolic Mee Tree and walked further towards the Historic Bo Tree where the road technically ends. Lakegala was smiling with us all the way, pleased to see me back. If only she could talk. We walked pass the Mee tree towards the Bo tree and took the path through the lush green paddy fields. I know I’ve said it before but I can’t say enough about the beauty of these young paddy fields. They are so grand looking, especially when the background is bordered with dark green mountains and the sky is royal blue.

At the end of the paddy field is where the new camp site is located. Right next to that is the river (Bembigolla Oya aka Meemure Oya), so no problem with water. I’ll come to the more specifics of the campsite later. We walked passing it and joined yet another pathway bordering even more beautiful paddy fields. It’s such a soothing color for your eyes. Lakegala was with us all the way looking grandeur than ever. This road took us to the Suriya Arana Falls which I’d been there before. To our dismay, we found two tents erected on the rocks near the falls but nobody was about.

I’m not sure if it was legal to camp there even Nava mama wasn’t sure. There’s a lot of activity going on these days with Forest Officers frequently visiting to check if there are any illegal things happening. That’s why now we have to buy tickets if we venture into the jungle. It’s something imposed very recently but not 100% applied. It’s always best to buy tickets to be on the safe side than be sorry. We walked pass the Suriya Arana falls through the jungle footpath towards Dandenikumbura. After about 1km, there was a group of people (6 boys and 2 girls) following us and found they were the ones in the tents. They’d just started following us and had no idea where they were going. Fortunately, when we stopped to refill our canteen, they caught up with us and got into conversation.

It was very careless of them as they had no idea where the path is leading, if the path is safe. No villager was with them. There are Elephants roaming Dandenikumbura and surrounding area so what they were doing was very risky too. You should never venture into unknown territories like these no matter how good a hiker you are without someone who knows the area well. They then decided to follow us as far as Dandenikumbura and then turn around. There’s one lone house still standing in Dandenikumbura that belongs to a great grandfather of Nava mama. It’s well built with cement and bricks with roofing tiles. Around late 1980s, the village had been abandoned and what’s left of the population had migrated to nearby villagers.

The group of people bid us farewell and Nava mama sat under the shade of hundreds of years old Bo tree to tell us the story of Dandenikumbura. I’ve shot a short video which you can see below but let me put it in brief here.

“The Story of Dandenikumbura”

“Dandenikumbura name had come from Dan-Dun-Kumbura (The paddy field where alms were given). The history of this paddy field runs all the way towards A’Pura era and Dandenikumbura is in the path where ancient kings used to come to Kandy from A’Pura and Pollonnaruwa. According to the folklore and history, this is where Maliyadewa Maha Rahathan Wahanse stayed and this paddy field was harvested to give alms to him. As a result, the village had got its name.”

The Video Documentary of Dandenikumbura

The paddy field is now just a bare land with grass and bushes taken full control. This is where the jumbos roam around. We saw plenty of aricanut and coconut trees telling us that there were people living in this area before. After a short walk, we reached the shallow waters of Heen Ganga. Due to the draught that hit the country recently, water levels were very low but still had to wade through about 30m knee-deep water.

Atha offered to take me “Assa Gudun” and I happily agreed coz I’m so lazy and reluctant to remove my shoes and wade through. Nava mama too wanted have some fun and hoping we would fall, he started videoing our crossing. Atha nearly obliged when he lost footing but I held him tight dearly coz I had my camera inside the pocket. However, he couldn’t save his power bank as he went a bit deeper than his knees and water seeped into his left pocket drenching the power bank and making it redundant.

Crossing the Heen Ganga

Save for that, we crossed without further incident and started the strenuous hike through dense forest towards Gala Muduna. The foot path is wider at many places marking that it’s being used by buffaloes and jumbos alike. We came across two huts (one as soon as we crossed the river) where villagers bring alms to the meditating monk in the jungle near a very tall waterfall. I’m not sure if it’s documented but we couldn’t get to the base as the monk had put up a sign asking the visitors not to enter and disturb his meditation and we duly obliged.

We kept climbing and thanks to the tree canopy, the sun couldn’t bother us but it was very tough going uphill and we had to come back to the village too before it’s dark. We took the torches with us but couldn’t risk walking through that thick jungle in the night amid animals and serpents. After it seemed an eternity we reached the village and got a differently shaped Lakegala looking at us from the distance. Next to her was the highest point in Knuckles, Thunnisgala aka Gombaniya. I’d not heard Gombaniya was also called Thunnisgala so this was news to me.

Unfortunately there had been a funeral in one of the houses so the people were in a rather somber not in their usual cheerful and talkative mood. A 7-year old boy had died having been hospitalized for more than 4 months. It had taken them so long to diagnose a lump in his head and by the time they came to know, the things had gone a little too far. The father of the kid however came and spoke to us even offering us lunch but we’d our packed lunch with us so politely declined.

We met this very old (he claims 84 years but could be older) Muththa (Grandfather) who was very cheerful and talkative. He offered to give us some details about the village and even had a plea for some help to the village. You can see the talk we had below.

Plea from Gala Muduna People

“Gala Muduna Village”

“This reminded me of Kohonawala not because it’s in a ravine but pretty much isolated from the rest of the world. There’s no road to the village and to get to a motorable road they have to walk more than 4-5km. A decent town is about 11km away. They don’t even wanna think about coming towards Meemure coz that’s very strenuous. There are 30+ families living in the village and has a temple and a school with about 20-25 kids.

There’s no main income for them but they’re by and large farmers. They grow paddy, vegetables and tobacco but only for their consumption. They simply don’t have any way of taking their harvest to a town or nobody is coming to buy it as there’s no proper road to the village like Meemure. We saw the poverty-stricken houses scattered about. Most of the houses had only 1 or 2 people living in them and in dilapidated status. Even that very old Muththa is living on his own.

They have a hydro power plant but not a very powerful one. Only 2 bulbs can be lit at any time with that power nothing else. It’s not powerful enough to run the electrical stuff like cookers, fridges, etc. So if someone can donate a generator for their society club, it’d be very useful for the events such as funerals, weddings, etc. Anyone interested in donating something to this village, please contact Nava Mama and he’ll facilitate it.”

The view of Lakegala from Gala Muduna is completely different from what you see from Meemure. She looks more boxy than pointy and the broken part (Ressa) is partially visible from there. Muththa offered to say some poems but refused to do so at the funeral house claiming it’s not clean. So we decided to go to his house and he started off with a poem about King Ravana and I was impatiently waiting till he finished the set of poems to dig further into the history of Ravana.

Muththa signing us Poems from the Past

To my disappointment, he evaded numerous efforts from me to get something useful out of him. It’s the nature of these people coz they’re treating Ravana as a god calling him various names, “Gale Bandara Deviyo” being one of them. I didn’t push too far and we bid our farewell to this beautiful village and started our descent back towards Meemure. Nava mama took us in a different route where we got a view of the top of the waterfall which I named Kahatagahawela Ella (if this is not already documented) coz it’s located close to that village on the other side of the Heen Ganga. This is when we came across the notice printed and laminated put up by the monk asking not to tress pass into his meditation.

Video of Kahatagahawela Falls through the Tree Canopy

He’d specifically asked us to be at one of those huts in the morning should we wanna talk to him. We bypassed the place and reached the Heen Ganga and crossed it. There was this dog who followed us all the way from Gala Muduna and we were hoping she’d turn around at the river instead she swam across the river and joined us all the way back home.

We passed a few abandoned paddy fields at Kahatagahawela coz it’d been abandoned by the villagers just like Dandenikumbura. We were knackered but kept going, fortunately there was packet of Lemon Puff and we had it but the doggy claimed most of it. Nava mama said that it was the first time anyone had come in the morning to Meemure, gone and come back from Gala Muduna so we felt proud of ourselves of being able to do that and coming from someone like him made it all the more special. On our way back, we plucked some Madu Dalu from a tree hoping to have it cooked the following day for our lunch. I’d never had Madu Dalu curry before so was looking forward to yet another first-time experience. We came back to the Bo tree in Meemure where Nava mama’s son was waiting with the tuk-tuk coz it’s about 1.5km-walk back to his house and it’d have been terrible had we had to walk.

We reached back home knackered but feeling overjoyed inside. There was another group of 14 university students (at least that’s what they’d claimed) preparing to go for a mega booze. It was all chaos coz they were preparing this and that and we had to sit and wait till they left finally around 8.30pm for their drinking session. Nava mama had to find a quiet spot for them to go and drink and sing but asked them to finish everything before midnight. Why or why waste your time drinking at a place like this when there’s so much to see.

Unbelievable

Unbelievable

This is something I can't seem to get enough of ever

This is something I can’t seem to get enough of ever

Just appearing

Just appearing

Loads of different shapes

Loads of different shapes

The winding road downhill from Corbet's Gap

The winding road downhill from Corbet’s Gap

Mountains towards Meemure

Mountains towards Meemure

Morning sun lighting up the mountain tops

Morning sun lighting up the mountain tops

Our reliable transport mode

Our reliable transport mode

This is called Tun Tun, similar to Passion Fruit and can cook

This is called Tun Tun, similar to Passion Fruit and can cook

Home grown and fully organic

Home grown and fully organic

They don't escape me that easily

They don’t escape me that easily

There she's, beautiful as ever

There she’s, beautiful as ever

Lush greenery, charcoal grey and royal blue...

Lush greenery, charcoal grey and royal blue…

The team ready to rock 'n' roll

The team ready to rock ‘n’ roll

Searching for food

Searching for food

Being floughed

Being floughed

Towards Kalupahana area, we went about halfway straight and took a sharp right turn

Towards Kalupahana area, we went about halfway straight and took a sharp right turn

Busy at work in the scorching hot sun

Busy at work in the scorching hot sun

Entrance to the camping site

Entrance to the camping site

Art of creepers

Art of creepers

Hondapara (larger version of Godapara)

Hondapara (larger version of Godapara)

No words to express this beauty

No words to express this beauty

Me and my beloved Lakegala

Me and my beloved Lakegala

Everywhere is this green

Everywhere is this green

We didn't miss Tony

We didn’t miss Tony

First encounter

First encounter

They all are working so hard

They all are working so hard

No exception just because you're old and a female

No exception just because you’re old and a female

Would be a wonderful place to stay overnight

Would be a wonderful place to stay overnight

If you read my first report on Meemure, this Grandfather should be familiar

If you read my first report on Meemure, this Grandfather should be familiar

Famous place in the Suriya Arana movie

Famous place in the Suriya Arana movie

Balu Dan blooming some great flowers

Balu Dan blooming some great flowers

Entering into the jungle of Dandenikumbura

Entering into the jungle of Dandenikumbura

Atha and Nava mama

Atha and Nava mama

This is called "Iththa" and used to bait fish by crushing and putting them in water. The fish get drunk and easy to catch afterwards

This is called “Iththa” and used to bait fish by crushing and putting them in water. The fish get drunk and easy to catch afterwards

See the fence created by villagers to keep the bulls away when the farming season is over

See the fence created by villagers to keep the bulls away when the farming season is over

Thick forest cover kept us from the unforgiving sun

Thick forest cover kept us from the unforgiving sun

Meemure Oya which makes Suriya Arana Falls, flowing downhill

Meemure Oya which makes Suriya Arana Falls, flowing downhill

"Hal Bambiya" - The fruit tastes sweet and sour whole the leaves are used as a medicine for Stomachache

“Hal Bambiya” – The fruit tastes sweet and sour whole the leaves are used as a medicine for Stomachache

The well built but lone house in Dandenikumbura which once belonged to a great grandfather of Nava mama

The well built but lone house in Dandenikumbura which once belonged to a great grandfather of Nava mama

Ancient Bo tree

Ancient Bo tree

Heen Ganga very shallow due to lack of rains

Heen Ganga very shallow due to lack of rains

Good for a cool dip but where's the time?

Good for a cool dip but where’s the time?

Knee deep

Knee deep

Guess what? Lakegala looking a bit out of shape

Guess what? Lakegala looking a bit out of shape

First hut near the Heen ganga where the meditating monk comes in the morning for alms

First hut near the Heen ganga where the meditating monk comes in the morning for alms

Mammoth trees soaring into the sky searching for sun

Mammoth trees soaring into the sky searching for sun

Couple having a break

Couple having a break

The path is shared equally by villagers, bulls and elephants at different times

The path is shared equally by villagers, bulls and elephants at different times

The second hut

The second hut

Came to the lower part of Gala Muduna, this paddy field has been abandoned

Came to the lower part of Gala Muduna, this paddy field has been abandoned

Getting ready for harvest

Getting ready for harvest

Harvested paddy field

Harvested paddy field

Lakegala from another angle

Lakegala from another angle

"Samanalaya mala ha lamaya se"

“Samanalaya mala ha lamaya se”

Just look at this path, it's like a trench as the waterways had washed it down over time

Just look at this path, it’s like a trench as the waterways had washed it down over time

As if through a giant canal

As if through a giant canal

The first house

The first house

To the left is Thunnisgala and right is my Lakegala

To the left is Thunnisgala and right is my Lakegala

Very fruitful earth they have

Very fruitful earth they have

These people were very friendly

These people were very friendly

Looks like plastic

Looks like plastic

Love the color

Love the color

Tobacco being farmed for their consumption

Tobacco being farmed for their consumption

Kurakkan being dried in the sun

Kurakkan being dried in the sun

This is called Thana Hal, a variety of rice

This is called Thana Hal, a variety of rice

Derelict houses tell the story of poverty, both these houses have one person each living in them

Derelict houses tell the story of poverty, both these houses have one person each living in them

The village is around this paddy field

The village is around this paddy field

Very old Muththa with Nava mama with his new camera

Very old Muththa with Nava mama with his new camera

We and Muththa

We and Muththa

Not posing for a toothpaste ad

Not posing for a toothpaste ad

Muththa's house

Muththa’s house

Betel leaves and aricanut are main requirements for them

Betel leaves and aricanut are main requirements for them

Where we had lunch

Where we had lunch

"Hurry up Nava mama, very hungry" - I kept saying

“Hurry up Nava mama, very hungry” – I kept saying

Some more beauties

Some more beauties

Unique

Unique

Kahatagahawela Falls (if it's not documented as yet) through the thick jungle

Kahatagahawela Falls (if it’s not documented as yet) through the thick jungle

Couldn't get to the base

Couldn’t get to the base

The tree trunk being used as a bridge to cross to the other side but we didn't as there was a notice

The tree trunk being used as a bridge to cross to the other side but we didn’t as there was a notice

Look at the smiley face,

Look at the smiley face,

The lungs of our country, do protect them at all costs

The lungs of our country, do protect them at all costs

Going was very tough

Going was very tough

The waterfall seen from the Kahatagahawela Paddy field which is like many others now abandoned

The waterfall seen from the Kahatagahawela Paddy field which is like many others now abandoned

Closer

Closer

Very little water, but closer to this should be ideal for the monk to concentrate on his meditation

Very little water, but closer to this should be ideal for the monk to concentrate on his meditation

Nava mama, Atha and the doggy crossing the river. She wouldn't leave back

Nava mama, Atha and the doggy crossing the river. She wouldn’t leave back

Swimming across

Swimming across

The other side of the paddy field, also abandoned

The other side of the paddy field, also abandoned

Towards Corbet's Gap aka Aththala Mattuwa

Towards Corbet’s Gap aka Aththala Mattuwa

Giving us a hard stare

Giving us a hard stare

The area we came from is to the left

The area we came from is to the left

Freshly plucked Madu Dalu

Freshly plucked Madu Dalu

Mushy mushrooms

Mushy mushrooms

Giant cave dug probably by a Porcupine or Kebellewa

Giant cave dug probably by a Porcupine or Kebellewa

Gotchcha

Gotchcha

Look at the centre part. It's as if saying "Ayubowan"

Look at the centre part. It’s as if saying “Ayubowan”

Finished our lemon puff in seconds

Finished our lemon puff in seconds

Birds had come to feast on the insects

Birds had come to feast on the insects

Very tiny but managed to get a macro

Very tiny but managed to get a macro

The Ayubowan rock is far away

The Ayubowan rock is far away

Getting back towards the village

Getting back towards the village

Well-built hut for resting during the day time

Well-built hut for resting during the day time

Thorny tree

Thorny tree

Sun is disappearing below Lakegala

Sun is disappearing below Lakegala

Gosh, what a day we had!

Gosh, what a day we had!

Day 02

Camping Site

The camp site has 5 camp beds which can accommodate 10-15 people with ease and two well-maintained toilets, one with a commode and the other without.

 • The fire area has ample room for a group of 30-40 people to sit around comfortably.

 • Meemure Oya flows just off the campsite so no problem with water, especially when you wanna have a cool dip.

We finally packed our dinner and got the prepared chicken for our BBQ and went back in the tuk-tuk to Bo tree and walked the rest of the way to the campsite. Salinda (Nava mama’s younger son) and his friend had prepared the site beautifully having swept all the fallen leaves and lit flaming torches which added so much beauty to the dark night. There were two tents erected, one a larger 3-man tent and another camouflage 2-man one. I was so taken to the camouflage one coz it was ideal to use inside the jungle coz of its colors. It’d be very difficult for anyone or an animal to detect it unless they come right on top of it.

After a cool dip in the adjoining Oya, we got ready for the BBQ. Nava mama got busily into the act and it took a considerable time to get that ready. We didn’t use charcoal for the BBQ but wood fire and it came surprisingly well cooked and delicious. After a hearty meal of rice and curry we got ready to sleep in the luxuriously arranged tent. There were sleeping mattresses with pillows and sheets to cover and the atmosphere was nice and balmy.

We wrapped ourselves and went into dreamland. The constant sound of the water flowing and nightlife of the wild animals was a treat to our eyes. One would think it’s so disturbing but you gotta listen to that and see how soothing it really is. I slept like a baby till 5.45am and when I got up all the weariness had vanished into thin air and we were ready to rock and roll yet again.

Note: It was very sad to see the alcohol (not the traditional toddy) had finally seeped into the life styles of Meemure people, especially the youth as a result of an outsider who’d started yet another camping site. He’s attracted young people by offering them free liquor. It won’t be long before we see the disastrous effects of this in this humble and beautiful village. For the first time in Meemure history, a wife had had to go to the police and lodge a complaint against her husband, who works at this new camp site, for drunken assault. It’s something that has never happened before and natives in Meemure prided themselves of not using alcohol except their good old toddy but things are taking a different route just like Malaysian Airliner MH370.

Therefore it’d be advisable for any traveler who goes to Meemure (or any other place) not to offer alcohol to the villagers. We wanna see the un spoilt beauty of our country and her people as they are without them being destroyed by addicting to alcohol and drugs. This is exactly what the English did to destroy our culture and distance the king from his people and unfortunately it continues to date. Coincidently, I told Nava mama in my very first visit that if ever an outsider comes to Meemure, he’d only think about making money at any cost not the cultural or historical value of this great heaven on earth. Sadly it’s exactly what that’s happening at the moment. It’s now down to us nature lovers to try and put a stop to these dangerous proceedings.”

 

I love this tent

I love this tent

Where we slept

Where we slept

The fire is going strong

The fire is going strong

Getting ready

Getting ready

There's ample room to sit around the fire

There’s ample room to sit around the fire

It's time to start cooking

It’s time to start cooking

Just got all the ashes on my lens

Just got all the ashes on my lens

Ok, here we go. A new method is being tested

Ok, here we go. A new method is being tested

This is being kinda boiled by the heat generated underneath. Not directly exposed yet

This is being kinda boiled by the heat generated underneath. Not directly exposed yet

One of the gigantic mango tress that provides shade

One of the gigantic mango tress that provides shade

Now fully exposed to the fire and being charred nicely

Now fully exposed to the fire and being charred nicely

Dinner anyone?

Dinner anyone?

Would be ideal in the jungle

Would be ideal in the jungle

Good morning!

Good morning!

The central part of the camping site with the kitchen in the corner

The central part of the camping site with the kitchen in the corner

Large enough for 3 people

Large enough for 3 people

Very comfortable

Very comfortable

Nicely done washrooms, there are two

Nicely done washrooms, there are two

Remains of our BBQ

Remains of our BBQ

 Scary

Scary

Meemure Oya flows making crystal clear pools every now and then

Meemure Oya flows making crystal clear pools every now and then

Irresistible

Irresistible

So many different varieties

So many different varieties

She was back again at work early in the morning

She was back again at work early in the morning

Found him on the camping ground

Found him on the camping ground

Got him to climb onto this stick and see how scared he is

Got him to climb onto this stick and see how scared he is

Holding onto dear life

Holding onto dear life

The toddy tree inside

The toddy tree inside

One of the villagers busy at work

One of the villagers busy at work

Freshly tapped Toddy

Freshly tapped Toddy

I'm not sure if it's here coz of some kinda superstition

I’m not sure if it’s here coz of some kinda superstition

Meemure to Wannimana Trail

After a good night’s sleep, we washed and roamed around the lush green paddy fields taking in the fresh air into our lungs, deeply inhaling the fragrance of the trees, flowers and the river. When we got back to the campsite, we saw a person on top of the toddy tree within the camp premises. He was tapping toddy and we waited for him to get down and have a chat.

He got down eventually with a container of freshly tapped toddy and we talked to him while Athula (hope you can remember him from our first encounter) brought us tea. After about half hour Nava mama came with our breakfast of Kiribath and Lunu Miris which was delicious like all other meals. He was furious with the group who stayed in his house coz they’d been drinking till 2.30am in the morning shouting and hooting keeping the whole neighborhood awake. As a result we got a bit late to start our journey. This is something we should never do, going and making the lives of those people uncomfortable just because we want to have a good time.

After that we started our journey and walked up to Bo tree with the toddy tapper and leaving our baggage at his place we walked towards Kalupahana through the jungle. We met one of the great grandfathers of Meemure, E.M.P.G. Ekanayake who’s nearly 90 years old. Would you believe that he’d climbed Lakegala when he was 83 years old? That shows how strong the people of Meemure are.

Our plan was to reach Wanniyamana, yet another flat land like Ressa with a deep ravine to the left of Lakegala. Nava mama kept telling us old stories of how he as a kid roamed the jungle at will with his parents and brothers and sisters. That’s how he knows the whole area like the back of his hand. Walking parallel to the River we entered the thick forest and started climbing up along a hardly ever used footpath. Nava mama said the hunters roam these areas as there are no forest officers let alone travelers, save for ones like us, so it’s a good opportunity for those who hunt animals like Barking Deer, Sambar Deer, Wild Boars and various others. We came across Aththikka trees and Nava mama informed us from that emerged the little insect called Konduruwa. The villagers call this tree Dimbul as well.

After a tiring climb, we reached Iththa Gala from where we could see the Daluggola Falls (I named it after the village) and the paddy field next to it. The water levels were low but not too bad. Straight ahead was the Thunnisgala, highest point in Knuckles Mountain Range soaring high into the sky. This was a very nice vantage point and we gave our battered legs a good 10-minute break. The doggy that had followed us from Gala Muduna had joined us for this as well and even she was panting heavily due to the nonstop hiking. She must be a well-trained dog coz not once she barked inside the jungle keeping very quiet.

From Iththagala we saw the top of Thunnisgala and just below the summit is Belumgala and further downhill to the right is Kudagala shaped like a bed. There was another pointed summit further to the right which is called Rehenaketu Pathana. Beyond this lie Walpolamulla, Laggala, Atanwala, Pitawala and Rathkinda. The famous Knuckles Doowili Falls are also placed beyond this point. We then came to a huge tree which Nava mama introduced as Gammalu. This is also called Blood tree coz if you cut the bark of this, there’s a liquid flowing very much like blood. Nava mama showed us and I was so surprised as it flowed just like blood does out of the skin and the cut made on the tree looked exactly like a wound on a human.

We had to hurry as we were planning to leave for Colombo the same day so pushed on through the jungle until; at last we reached the ultimate goal of Wanniyamana. This is yet another unheard and not often ventured place. It looked just like a Pathana on top but a lot smaller compared to many others in the country. We could see as far as Gala Muduna and the mountains beyond that towards Corbet’s Gap. My beloved Lakegala was just a touching distance away and a deep ravine about 500ft separated us. Thunnisgala, Bambaragala was behind us when facing Lakegala. Ressa too was clearly visible from this strategic location.

You can observe the shape of Lakegala from a side angle from here very clearly. She’s more or less separated into 3 parts, two big ones on both sides and a tiny pointed shape in the middle. Towards Ressa, the mountain looks flat and sloping. We couldn’t believe the distance we’d travelled during the past 36hrs or so. It was a photo shoot out all along and even the doggy was enjoying herself running here and there. We did a documentary from the top of Wanniyamana and you can see that below.

Documentary from Wanniyamana

After it felt like an eternity, we decided to climb down coz it was nearly 2.00pm. I was very sad to leave Lakegala behind but vowed to myself to come back to see her as soon as possible. Climbing down was less tedious and Nava mama told us that all of the forest there used to be Chena cultivation about 2-3 decades ago. There were rocky boundaries marked by the people who grew Corn, Kurakkan, Enasal, etc. those days.

After a long journey we reached the Lakegala Oya where there was a suspension bridge erected by the villagers to cross over during rainy season. Nava mama used that to show his balancing skills and I shot a short video too.

Nava Mama’s Stunts.

We reached the Village but couldn’t contact Nava mama’s house so that Salinda could come in the tuk tuk to take us home. We decided to walk the rest of the way but met an American who’d recently done a motor biking tour in India, now doing it in SL. He was very impressed to see our pics and asked about the village. Fortunately about halfway through, Salinda and Athula came in the tuk tuk to pick us and I’d never felt so glad to see a tuk tuk.

We reached home around 4.15pm and after a quick wash, Nava mama’s wife had cooked the Madu Dalu which was delicious. The lunch was a feast and we ate like a hungry pack of wolves. Nenda was however cross with Nava mam for bringing that doggy home coz Dinky was furious and waiting to pounce on her and chase her away. But Nava mama made fun of that saying it’s high time Dinky got a partner for him. We bid our farewell to our hosts and were on our way back around 5.15pm.

Having reached Hunnasgiriya around 7.00pm, it was all traffic-free till we reached Colombo close to 11.00pm.

It turned out to be another memorable journey for us, especially me as Meemure is very much close to my heart. I simply love going there again and again and looking at Lakegala all the time. I hope you enjoyed my fantasy tale as much as I did getting this across to you.

Take care and keep travelling but protect the Mother Nature at all costs.

 

On our way

On our way

Early risers

Early risers

Just like a bouquet

Just like a bouquet

Age is no barrier

Age is no barrier

Typical day-to-day life

Typical day-to-day life

Ekanayake Mama, who climbed Lakegala at 83

Ekanayake Mama, who climbed Lakegala at 83

Aththikka aka Dimbul

Aththikka aka Dimbul

Plenty of water sources with clean water

Plenty of water sources with clean water

Life on the Dead

Life on the Dead

Atha tackling a fallen tree

Atha tackling a fallen tree

Doggy kept following us all the way

Doggy kept following us all the way

Used to be Chena Cultivation

Used to be Chena Cultivation

Looks very much like blood pouring out of a wound

Looks very much like blood pouring out of a wound

Wrapped tightly around

Wrapped tightly around

Nava mama taking pics of Thunnisgala from Iththagala, Daluggolla falls is just in the middle of the pic next to the paddy field

Nava mama taking pics of Thunnisgala from Iththagala, Daluggolla falls is just in the middle of the pic next to the paddy field

Thunnisgala, Belumbala , Kudagala and Rehana Ketu Pathana

Thunnisgala, Belumbala , Kudagala and Rehana Ketu Pathana

Daluggolla Falls and the Paddy Field

Daluggolla Falls and the Paddy Field

Sheer climb most of the way

Sheer climb most of the way

Even Nava mama was exhausted

Even Nava mama was exhausted

Wow

Wow

Out in the open, you see Andirigala to the extreme left and the base of it is Nava mama's house

Out in the open, you see Andirigala to the extreme left and the base of it is Nava mama’s house

Only a little to go

Only a little to go

Whoa! There She is

Whoa! There She is

Busy at work

Busy at work

Mighty Lakegala

Mighty Lakegala

Portrait of her

Portrait of her

Towards Gala Muduna (left) and the rest of the mountain range

Towards Gala Muduna (left) and the rest of the mountain range

Look at the sheer drop

Look at the sheer drop

There it is about 500-600ft

There it is about 500-600ft

Have similar one like this taken from Ressa

Have similar one like this taken from Ressa

Atha's knee kept complaining, thus the bandage

Atha’s knee kept complaining, thus the bandage

Ravana Balakaya

Ravana Balakaya

Won't get enough of looking at her

Won’t get enough of looking at her

Getting down

Getting down

Royal blue

Royal blue

Signs of big trees chopped and branches grown around the main trunk. Results of Chena Cultivation

Signs of big trees chopped and branches grown around the main trunk. Results of Chena Cultivation

The suspension bridge

The suspension bridge

Nava mama showing his balancing skills

Nava mama showing his balancing skills

"Anybody home?"

“Anybody home?”

Back into familiar territory

Back into familiar territory

Very nicely done

Very nicely done

Some of the plots are yet to be planted

Some of the plots are yet to be planted

Towards Gala Muduna

Towards Gala Muduna

Bean cultivation

Bean cultivation

She was sad to see us go

She was sad to see us go

Back to Meemure Oya

Back to Meemure Oya

Very little water

Very little water

Time to go

Time to go

Ekanayake mama still at work

Ekanayake mama still at work

Ambul Dodam

Ambul Dodam

Very cute fella. He was crying when we went in but settled down to pose for the pic

Very cute fella. He was crying when we went in but settled down to pose for the pic

Saying "Good Bye"

Saying “Good Bye”

Million petals

Million petals

Enjoy the Collection of Panos below:

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano 8

Pano 8

Pano 9

Pano 9

Pano 10

Pano 10

Pano 11

Pano 11

Pano 12

Pano 12

Pano 13

Pano 13

Pano 14

Pano 14

Pano 15

Pano 15

The Ultimate Glory – My Beloved Lakegala…

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Year and Month 18-21 April, 2014
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew Dodam and Me (Our guides were Nava Mama, Kalu Malli, Chanaka and Mihindu)
Accommodation Nava Mama’s Place
Transport By Train, Bus, Tuk-tuk and on Foot
Activities Archaeology, Photography, Hiking, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Fort->Kandy->Hunnasgiriya->Meemure and return on Meemure->Corbet’s Gap->Thangappuwa->Theldeniya->Kandy->Fort
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You can contact Nava Mama on 081-3804191.
  • You can read my previous report – Living in My Dream – Meemure & Gala Muduna… here.
  • We were accompanied by 4 village people including Nava Mama. (Kalu Malli, Chanaka and Mihindu were the rest)
  • When I checked with the KCC at Deanston if we have to buy tickets to get into the jungles via Meemure, the officer (He wasn’t the officer in charge but a helping hand as the one in charge was in leave) said it wasn’t necessary. However we’ve been getting some confusing information about this. So check with them whenever you visit Meemure to be on the safe side.
  • Lakegala was the most difficult hike so far in my life. Be prepared to tackle this with the instructions from Nava Mama. He’s the most experience person when it comes to Meemure and Lakegala so highly recommend him as the perfect guide. I’d trust him with my life to take you up and down safely.
  • Don’t go in large numbers and make sure there’s an equal number of helping hands from the village too. E.g. If there are 4 of you, you need at least 3 villagers to accompany you to the top. As far as I’m concerned, I wouldn’t recommend a group larger than 4 people + 3 villagers.
  • You needn’t worry about ropes or tents or food so long as you go with Nava Mama. However, if you have any climbing equipment, do take with you by all means.
  • Make sure the backpacks are light and stay closer to your body without wavering about. Take only the essential items with you.
  • Carry plenty of water, at least 3 liters per person for drinking alone. If you intend to cook, take more water accordingly.
  • Climbing Lakegala is like a religious ritual for Meemure People. Similar to climbing the Sri Pada. So guard your tongues and follow Nava Mama’s instructions to the letter.
  • No one can say if you can climb this or not. You have to understand your capabilities and decide for yourself whether you can do it or not. Remember, at the end of the day, safety comes first. You’ve gotta live to tell your story. Don’t try to be heroic unnecessarily and put yours and others’ live in danger. You don’t have to be ashamed of yourselves not being able to climb each and everything. Just gauge carefully and decide what’s best for you.
  • Take a small pot or a pan for cooking.
  • The top is heavily overgrown. You won’t find it like a flat terrain like a ground. Take a sharp knife or a machete to chop the branches along the way.
  • Be careful how you handle fire. The top is full of Mana bushes and most of them are highly inflammable due to dry leaves. Be extremely careful if you want to cook or light a fire. But don’t fall asleep while the fire is on as the wind can take a few sticks around and light the dry leaves.
  • Watch your step all the way. Don’t let your guard down. Take frequent breaks; remember it’s not a race to the top. Drink water in sips not in gulps. Don’t overeat as going up will be difficult with an overflowing tummy.
  • The path to the base of the rock is full of lose stones due to the march of cattle searching for food. There might even be snakes underneath them. Use a stick and keep it in front of you.
  • Wear long sleeved T-shirts and if possible cargo pants coz the path is full of prickly bushes and you’re bound to get bruised. However make sure your arms and limbs not stuck by your clothing.
  • When climbing the rocky surface, you will have to remove your shoes and stay barefoot as it’ll get a proper foothold. However if you have special climbing shoes, it would also be ideal.
  • Don’t eat anything salty, especially salty and spicy biscuits as it will make you wanna have more and more water.
  • Please don’t attempt this during windy and rainy season. Even a slight wind or a drizzle can make climbing very dangerous. (Ideal time period would be from February to April)
  • The track from Corbet’s Gap to Thangappuwa is a wide jeep track about 4km. It’s a walk in the park but be prepared for leech attacks.
  • Don’t disturb the silence in the jungle. Don’t shout or hoot. Take the minimum amount of polythene but make sure to bring them back with you.
  • There are no water sources on top of Lakegala. So be ready for it.
  • Take Powerful but lightweight torches if you plan to stay overnight. Even if you don’t, take all the same as you might get late to get out of the jungle.
  • Remember, you can’t afford to go to the toilet when you’re on top. Prepare for that by either taking more water (very hard) or take paper tissues or take something like Imodium. However, the hike along the rocky surface might make you wanna do it on the spot.
  • Help protect the environment.
  • Do ask if there’s anything else you want to know as I might’ve missed something.
  • Nava Mama thinks of getting a document signed for the people trying this hike regarding the safety of them. I think it’s a good one coz if someone meets an accident, it’ll put the whole village in trouble while newspapers making headlines accusing this and that. So be prepared to do this if he asks and I guess same thing happens in Kitulgala too.
  • Nava mama now arranges Adventure Sports at Suriya Arana Ella, similar to what you get from Kitulgala. Unfortunately couldn’t get any pics, but will try to get some and post later.

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hiya folks, it’s me back again with a fairy tale of mine. This is a pretty special one as I’d been dreaming about this journey for 360 days. Yeah, you heard right, nearly one year, I’d been dreaming night and day like longing to do this. It nearly made me go out of my mind as I kept going through this journey in my mind over and over again. So let me tell you the story of my beloved Lakegala, the most beautiful girl in the most beautiful village on earth.

It was 23rd April 2013 when I first went to Meemure (See the report here: Jaunting off to the Most Beautiful Village on Earth – Meemure) and fell in love with this unique and unbelievably beautiful village. The hallmark of Meemure was another uniquely shaped beauty called Lakegala, the pointed rocky mountain measuring 4200ft and soaring high into the Dumbara sky. She was the tallest of all until the land meets the eastern border.

It’s believed that the sailors and other travelers who came to Sri Lanka used Lakegala as a directional point just like ships use light houses. She was called “Illakkagala” (The rock that they aimed at) as a result which in turn became “Lakegala”. She’s also called “Maha Pabbatha Parwathaya” and the Meemure, “Maha Pabbatha Gramaya”. The legendary ruler of ancient Sri Lanka, Ravana the Great had apparently used Lakegala as one of his many hideouts. There are also beliefs about a nuclear war occurred during his era resulting a huge chunk of Lakegala being sliced like a bread and mammoth chunks of rocky boulders falling into the tank below towards Narangamuwa. (You can check my visit to that place here: Long Range Reconnaissance Patrol – Meemure & Narangamuwa)

Every time, I visited Meemure (3 times before) I saw this beautiful mountain looking at me, smiling with me as if beckoning me to come see her up close, but I had to be patient and take it easy as it was a real challenge and I didn’t want it to be a failure attempt. I wanted to savor her for as long as I could and was planning something extravagant. Eventually, when I went up all the way, I felt the wait was worth every second and the journey memorable. I’ll treasure this until the day I leave this world.

From the first day in Meemure, Nava mama had been my faithful contact person, never letting me down and always taking care of me and whoever went with me as best as he could. His wife was the perfect host one could hope for, always ready to make you feel welcome. His house was just like my own and I felt at home whenever I went there. I had been pestering him for the last year or so about the journey to Lakegala and when I made my plans for this April, he was more than ready to take up the challenge.

However, this wasn’t a journey a lot of people could go as it involves intense hiking and rope climbing. You gotta have a small team of like-minded people who have done some serious hikes before. There are a quite a few of my friends I crossed by doing this on my own (well, Dodam was a surprise addition) as they all were very keen on doing this. However, reflecting back, I feel I did the right thing by not going in a larger group as it’d have taken more time and delayed the whole journey. So let me say sorry from the bottom of my heart for everyone I made feel heart broken by not inviting them.

My initial plan to do this hike was with Athula after my third visit to Meemure (Check the report under Notes) but he had other engagements and informed me that he won’t be available for the journey. So it was down to me and I decided to do it on my own not wanting to wait another year yearning for this. However, on the New Year’s Day I called Dodam to wish him for his birthday (what a coincidence!) and casually mentioned that I’d be going to Meemure again. I wasn’t expecting him to join me as he too was like Uncle Tony, living under the shadow of his wife doing once in a while journey nowadays.

For some unknown reason, he said he’d check with the high command and let me know and I knew what the answer would be. “Machan, I won’t be able to do it this time coz she’s not happy me going. So let’s try something else in the future.” This was the typical answer I’ve received countless times when planning journeys so wasn’t hoping a different one this time. Harinda had always wanted to do this and I just called to check if he was free but he said the leave had been cancelled till 20th April until the rush hour is over. So I didn’t mention anything about my journey and told him if he’s free to join me for a special tour on 18 April.

Thing were taking a bad turn as the rains kept pouring with thundering and lightning threatening the tear the country apart. Usually April is very popular for lightning and thundering (Bak Maha Akunu) and I was so worried coz the long wait was going to be fruitless after all. I called Nava mama and he said it’s started raining after a long time and might go on for some time. My heart sank and I wanted to crawl into a tiny hole and sleep like a grizzly bear for a long time. I was torn, heart-broken and feeling depressed beyond imagination.

On the 16th, Dodam called out of nowhere and said he’d come after all. Well this was a surprise and I decided to go ahead with my plan and visit Meemure, try and do some other trail around Meemure. So I decided to go anyway as I’d already taken leave and do something or the other.

Day 01

I joined Dodam at Fort Station around 5.00am and the station was filled to the brim with hundreds of people going on vacation as it too was a long weekend. Fortunately Dodam had come early and joined the queue making it easy for us to grab two tickets for the 5.55am Podi Menike but she didn’t appear till 5.40am by which time the whole platform was nothing but a mass of heads.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Mini World’s End – Deanston
  2. Lakegala
  3. Trail from Corbet’s Gap to Thangappuwa

We managed to squeeze inside and put our heavy backpacks on the rack but seating was beyond our reach. No breakfast, no water and no seats, what a start for a journey. We settled in for the 3-hour journey to Kandy while everyone else was pushing and squashing each other trying to get more comfortable. The S-12 was slower than usual and had to stop at stations longer than she usually does due to the heavy crowds. Thankfully around Polgahawela, group of girls started singing some songs and it was a nice little diversion for our painful legs. They kept missing words and adding their own in place but it was better than nothing.

Passing Ihala Kotte, we saw the Bathalegala in the distance waving at us and sexy Alagalla was covered in clouds. I’m yet to go see her, maybe some other time. I called Nava mama and asked him to send the tuk-tuk to Hunnasgiriya around 10.00am. Dodam kept pacifying me saying it wouldn’t rain but I was horror stricken inside. The funny thing was Dodam still didn’t know what the actual plan was coz I kept him in the dark saying planning to do something and let’s go see first. We reached Kandy after it felt like an eternity and walked towards Good Shed and found a CTB travelling to Mahiyanganaya and immediately got in. No breakfast, no water and again no seating.

The journey was getting tougher even before we’d started our original hike. Eventually we reached Hunnasgiriya around 10.45am and went to the shop where the Meemure Van stops for some meals. Fortunately they had rice and curry ready and we ate like paupers. I called Nava mama but he wasn’t around but Nenda said Chanaka, our first time tuk-tuk fella had come and should reach soon. So we waited and he came and was very surprised to see me. I was the one who took him to the Mini World’s End for the first time and he still joked about it.

After a satisfying meal, we set off and the road is now being carpeted and they had done more since my last visit in end March. However, there are places it’s pretty bad as still the construction work is undergoing, especially after Deanston until Loolwatte, the road is in very bad condition but passable if you drive carefully. Dodam hadn’t seen Mini World’s End before so he wanted to visit and I obliged as there was nothing planned for the day. Chanaka played the guide and I just kept quiet. The walk was a pleasure and I kept looking up to see if there are signs of rain.

Chanaka said it’d been raining for the last couple of days making me want to vomit. We finished the journey in no time and there were a lot of people who’d come to visit. Along the way we saw plenty of vehicles coming to and from Meemure, it looked as if the whole country was out there in Meemure. We reached Nava mama’s house around 2.30pm and a sumptuous meal awaited us. Nava mama was delighted to see me and we made small chat and had a wash followed by a hearty meal. Afterwards, Dodam and I went for a walk in the village while paying a quick visit to “Wana Arana”, Nava mama’s camping site and enjoyed the beauty of this scenic village. Lakegala was there larger than life smiling broadly, happy to see me yet again. I guess she felt what I was thinking. I kept mumbling in my mind asking her to keep the rains and winds away.

Around 4.30pm, the clouds arrived thick and fast and we heard the distance rumble of thunder making us run all the way back to Nava mama’s house. If I had any hope of doing Lakegala, this nearly made it the last nail of the coffin. Having come back and lying in one of the mattresses cursing the rain and thunder with all the bad words I could think wasn’t gonna help my cause but I kept at it. The sky split into many pieces with lightning and I decided to call it quits.

Around 8.00pm, everything settled down and thunder and rain vanished without a trace of them being just a short while ago and my hopes soared into the sky. I went and asked Nava mama, “Mama, shall we go no matter what happens? To hell with this rain and thundering.” He must’ve sensed my state and very reluctantly agreed. I came and broke the news to Dodam and asked if he’d wanna join the hike regardless of what happens and he jumped in. That settled everything in under 5mins and we were ready to go.

To begin with, Color of Love

To begin with, Color of Love

Inside the tiny lake

Inside the tiny lake

First time I saw the Frogs' Eggs, they are laid close to the water so that when the tiny ones come out of this, will fall straight into water

First time I saw the Frogs’ Eggs, they are laid close to the water so that when the tiny ones come out of this, will fall straight into water

Familiar sightings

Familiar sightings

Getting a new dimension of things

Getting a new dimension of things

What a leisure walk

What a leisure walk

Wow, love the contrast

Wow, love the contrast

The bridge at the entrance

The bridge at the entrance

Super Macro

Super Macro

Panorama of the mountains visible from the View Point 2

Panorama of the mountains visible from the View Point 2

See if you can match them to the above Pano

See if you can match them to the above Pano (Click Image to Enlarge)

 

 

Facts of Knuckles Mountain Range

Got these pics inside the (top floor) KCC office. Thought of sharing as they have some valuable information about the Knuckles Mountains.

 

The Summary (Click image to enlarge)

The Summary (Click image to enlarge)

Land mass (Click image to enlarge)

Land mass (Click image to enlarge)

Life around the mountains (Click image to enlarge)

Life around the mountains (Click image to enlarge)

Must See (Click image to enlarge)

Must See (Click image to enlarge)

To-do-list (Click image to enlarge)

To-do-list (Click image to enlarge)

In detailed (Click image to enlarge)

In detailed (Click image to enlarge)

The places to stay (Click image to enlarge)

The places to stay (Click image to enlarge)

Bio Diversity (Click image to enlarge)

Bio Diversity (Click image to enlarge)

Day 02

Nava mama called Kalu Malli, saying he’s the ideal person for hikes like these and fortunately for us, Chanaka too agreed to come. After a hearty meal, we went to bed and I couldn’t remember sleeping that peacefully for some time. Morning arrived with birds chirping happily and fresh mountain air making me feel I’m in heaven. Kalu Malli and Chanaka arrived by 8.00am and we got busy arranging everything under the instruction of Nava mama and Kalu malli.

“Take plenty of water” was the theme of the day. Everyone and even Dinky the dog was pointing at the directions of plastic bottles indicating we carry as much water as possible. It was easier said than done. It took us nearly 3 hours to pack, repack, check and double check to be sure that we got everything right, constantly haggling over this and that. Let me give you a list of the items we carried with the quantity too so that you’ll get an idea as to how to plan if you ever do this journey.

This journey can be separated into 3 main parts:

1. From Nava Mama’s House to Lakegala Base Pool – 3-4km (Moderate)

2. Lakegala Base Pool to the Base of the Rocky Surface – 1-2km (Moderately Strenuous)

3. Rocky Surface to the Top – 1-2km (Extremely Strenuous)

Just remember, you don’t have to carry full stock of water till you reach the Lakegala Base Pool coz there’s a stream from which you can fill up your containers. There’s no need for you to get tired unnecessarily. There’s no water after this so be mindful to take as much water as possible for you to carry.

List of items we carried for 6 People:

Water – 21 liters (2 5-litre cans, 6 1.5-litre bottles, 1 1-litre bottles & 2 500ml bottles)

• 6 Packets of Instant Noodles – For Breakfast

• 1 Can of Baked Beans – For Breakfast

• 4 Large Lunch Packets (To eat before we started the ascend from the base) – For Lunch

• 1 Large Pack of Boiled Manioc with Lunu Miris & about 8 Thosai like Rotti – For Dinner

• 3 Packets of Biscuits (Lemon Puff, Hawaiian Cookies & Snack Crackers)

• Packs of Samahana, Coffee, Tea and Sugar

• Medium-sized Cooking Pot with the Cover

• 2 Two-man Tents with Rain Covers

• 1 Machete and 1 Large Knife

• Few Onions, Garlic and Lemons

• Small Medical Kit (Siddhalepa, Panadol, Salon Pas, etc.)

• 6 Plates cut off from Aricanut Leaves (Puwak Kolapath)

• Box of Matches and a Lighter

• 4 Ropes (Each about 100ft in length)

• 5 Torches

• 1 Packet of Candles

• Plenty of Thala Leaves, Aricanut, Tobacco Leaves and Hunu

I guess I haven’t missed anything above, if so, will let you know later. We set off around 11.15am, Nava mama carrying a Mati Pahana with Oil to be lit at the Devalaya off the Paddy Field before crossing the Meemure Oya. The back packs were heavily laden with the stuff but we didn’t fill the water containers as we could fill them up from the base pool.

From Nava Mama’s House to Lakegala Base Pool

We reached the Bo Maluwa passing the Mee Gaha where we bought our ropes, packs of noodles and the lighter. We met a boy sitting idling at the Bo Maluwa whose name was Mihindu. While we waited for Chanaka to bring the tents from the campsite, he asked if he could also join for this. Guess what, being a village boy, he’s not done Lakegala before and what a chance for this guy to do it for the first time and in grand style.

Getting permission from Nava mama, he ran to the house nearby and brought back with him a sarong and a bed sheet and joined the Ravana Balakaya for this memorable journey. He actually completed our Six Pack and we set off along the path and then through the lush green paddy fields. Lakegala was standing tall, majestic than ever and all of a sudden I felt that it won’t rain this day. I always love the color of green of Meemure paddy fields as they’re different from what I’ve seen elsewhere. They have that lushness which is unique and mind blowing. We reached the Devalaya and Nava mama, Kalu Malli and Dodam went in and lit the lamp asking for a safe journey from God Gale Bandara aka King Ravana the Great. Looking back, I feel he was protecting us all the way, making sure we reach our goal and get back safely without any harm.

Getting his blessings, we carried on towards the Lakegala Base Pool. This is a moderate hike but with back packs and the entire luggage, it can test your stamina to the limit. Kalu Malli stopped to pluck a whole bunch of Thala Leaves (Supplement for Betel Leaves) and picked a few aricanuts too. Chanaka helped him find a few Puwak Leaves and cut nice plates out of them making the journey as much eco-friendly as possible.

I’ll skip the details of our journey to the Lakegala Base Pool as I’ve done it two time before and given in detail as to what to expect. However, the Akula Ella had very little water, tiny line of water falling in a sad state despite the rains. There were no leeches to bother and we arrived at the base pool panting like a pack of wolves after a run in the wilderness. Got undressed and went for a dip in the base pool soaking our sweat streaked body in cool water, rubbing away our tiredness and making us hungrier all the time.

We met a group of 4 people already resting there after lunch. They’d tried to climb to the top but couldn’t even reach the base of the rocky surface. The guide with them informed us that there’s another bunch of boys trying to get to the top as we speak. However, he asked if he could join us and wanted us to wait till he went and dropped the team that had come with him. I didn’t like him or his attitude and didn’t hesitate to voice my dislike out loud. He got the message and left with his team. For some reason, I knew they won’t be able to get to the top coz today belonged to us and Lakegala won’t let any intruder ruin our stay. After a hearty meal we rested our legs for the final assault while Kalu Malli and Chanaka filled our water containers from the nearby stream.

I shot a series of 14 videos throughout the whole journey and have uploaded them separately. (If you haven’t seen it already, check the link given at the end of the report.)

 

Healthy Breakfast

Healthy Breakfast

Nava mama's grand daughter saying "Watch it"

Nava mama’s grand daughter saying “Watch it”

Not ripe enough to carry with us

Not ripe enough to carry with us

She's the Best, the Most Beautiful and the Greatest

She’s the Best, the Most Beautiful and the Greatest

The team, behind me is Mihindu and then Chanaka behind Nava Mama and Kalu Malli next to him and Dodam to extreme right

The team, behind me is Mihindu and then Chanaka behind Nava Mama and Kalu Malli next to him and Dodam to extreme right

The Devalaya

The Devalaya

Getting the blessings

Getting the blessings

Lighting nicely

Lighting nicely

Took me about 15mins of running about to get her

Took me about 15mins of running about to get her

There she is

There she is

Getting a much needed break

Getting a much needed break

Pooh!

Pooh!

Many of them making patterns and adding beauty to the jungle

Many of them making patterns and adding beauty to the jungle

The team is amazed by the sheer height

The team is amazed by the sheer height

Getting a much needed bath before the climb

Getting a much needed bath before the climb

Photogenic fella

Photogenic fella

Plants like these along with Mana bushes helped us keep steady and climb to the top

Plants like these along with Mana bushes helped us keep steady and climb to the top

Time to go up

Time to go up

From Base Pool to the Rocky Surface

Heavily laden with the backpacks and feeling content after the meal, we started our ascend to the top. Right from the word go, the terrain was difficult to maneuver with loose rocks and thorn bushes. I was in shorts and a regular T-shirt with short sleeves. Everywhere which was exposed got bruised by these unforgiving thorn bushes making me flinch at every step we took. About 200-300m into the journey, I heard Dodam swear “Oh Dear!” and looking up saw a 5-litre water can toppling down the raving cracking the plastic and splashing water all over.

Mihindu, our newly found friend had dropped one of the two precious 5-litre cans. Oh my gosh! What we were to do. We noted the place as it was important to take the plastic bottle back with us on our way. That was a very bad mistake and we were down to 16 liters of water right at the beginning with 6 people to drink, cook and make tea/coffee. Chanaka was furious and kept scolding Mihindu who looked aghast but we all felt sorry for the bugger as he can’t have dropped it on purpose. Nava mama got a rope and bound it securely around the mouth of the can and showed him how to carry it without dropping. All our lives depended on this last 5-litre water bottle even though we had our own small ones with us.

There was no clear pathway but we followed the cattle tracks where they’d climbed as far as to the rocky surface searching for lush grass during the dry season. Having climbed for about 500m, we reached the edge of the ground where a deep ravine and the proper base of Lakegala could be seen about 400-500ft below. The view was both grand and scary at the same time. One false step, you’d be heading headlong into this abyss with no chance of returning on your own. However, the Lakegala looked serene and calm, there was a slow breeze coming from helping us walk a bit easily. This is when we had our first quota of water, a 500ml bottled shared between the 6 of us (less than 75ml per person) leaving a small amount at the bottom. We were gonna save every drop of water after the fiasco at the base.

We kept well into the safety of the ground away from the edge of the ravine and met the second group coming back having abandoned their adventure at the rocky base. There were about 8-10 boys in all and they too thought we’d face the same result. However, when we said that we plan to try and get to the top and stay overnight, most of them laughed at us. Leaving them behind us we pushed on. The path is as I mentioned above bordered by a deep ravine which kinda makes a waterfall during the rainy season but now completely dry. We had to cross this over to the other side.

With the help of Kalu Malli, Chanaka and Nava mama I managed to do this without falling along the waterfall and got to the other end of the ravine. The bushes were thicker and fiercer. Kalu malli led the way with the machete chopping down as much bushes as possible trying to clear a path but little room we got. I was the worst affected out of the whole group, surprisingly Dodam kept a steady pace matching the others but I was falling behind big time. Nava mama was always there encouraging me and helping me cross difficult terrain, taking easier paths and guiding me. As I said in the notes, I’d trust him with my life anytime. We went and climbed and climbed and climbed towards the rocky surface. Looking up all I saw was a gigantic and near vertical rocky surface soaring into the sky, towering over you almost in an intimidating gesture as if challenging you to climb if you dare.

Just be warned, all around is the endless bottom and if you have even a slight hesitation, please don’t attempt this. You’ll not only put your life in danger but your team members too. The view is magnificent but pretty frightening too. I wanted to climb to the top before the sunset but by the time we reached the base of the rocky surface, it was past 4.15pm. It was an achievement in itself and I had to make up my mind whether to go further or make it a day and return home. This is the ideal place for you to do it. There was a rocky ledge making it look like a cave but the floor was not flat but a slope, so there’s no hope of staying there.

We got the ropes ready, tied at the ends and making a one large rope and packed everything tightly and got ready to do the 70-80-degree climb to the top.

 

Going up fully laden

Going up fully laden

Wishing us luck

Wishing us luck

Already lost a 5-litre can and Nava mama tying a rope around the bottle to be sure it won't meet the same fate

Already lost a 5-litre can and Nava mama tying a rope around the bottle to be sure it won’t meet the same fate

When it rains, this place turns into a waterfall, we had to walk up then cross to the right and go up further

When it rains, this place turns into a waterfall, we had to walk up then cross to the right and go up further

The team bringing the rear, see the drop getting scarier by the minute

The team bringing the rear, see the drop getting scarier by the minute

Towards Attala Mittuwa, Nitro Caves and Gala Muduna

Towards Attala Mittuwa, Nitro Caves and Gala Muduna

Nava mama taking in the surroundings

Nava mama taking in the surroundings

To the base of Lakegala, see the sheer drop, Meemure paddy fields are in the distance

To the base of Lakegala, see the sheer drop, Meemure paddy fields are in the distance

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

The second group who'd failed to go any further than the rocky surface going downhill, at times hooting from the top of their voice

The second group who’d failed to go any further than the rocky surface going downhill, at times hooting from the top of their voice

Thunnisgala, the highest peak in Knuckles

Thunnisgala, the highest peak in Knuckles

Thorny bushes dragging you backwards

Thorny bushes dragging you backwards

Still a lot more before we reach the rocky base

Still a lot more before we reach the rocky base

Waving in the wind

Waving in the wind

You can never get enough of this endless beauty

You can never get enough of this endless beauty

Kalu malli and the team behind, see the bushes and trees making it hard to go

Kalu malli and the team behind, see the bushes and trees making it hard to go

Don't stay too long here coz this is a resting place of cattle and you're bound to get some ticks dropped by them

Don’t stay too long here coz this is a resting place of cattle and you’re bound to get some ticks dropped by them

Going uphill became more challenging

Going uphill became more challenging

Endless mountains kept us busy with our cameras

Endless mountains kept us busy with our cameras

We just crossed to the right of the ravine to go around to the rocky base

We just crossed to the right of the ravine to go around to the rocky base

Nava mama, the Lone Ranger of Meemure

Nava mama, the Lone Ranger of Meemure

He took good use of his new camera

He took good use of his new camera

The drop getting more and more and my tummy beginning to growl all the more

The drop getting more and more and my tummy beginning to growl all the more

The cave but no chance of styaing inside. Can you see the slope?

The cave but no chance of styaing inside. Can you see the slope?

Kalu Malli and the team taking pics of the rock formation

Kalu Malli and the team taking pics of the rock formation

Towards Riverston from the cave

Towards Riverston from the cave

Thunnisgala, Belumgala and the rest

Thunnisgala, Belumgala and the rest

Taking a rest before attempting to take the toughest bit

Taking a rest before attempting to take the toughest bit

Just imagine our plight

Just imagine our plight

Had a hard time keeping my legs steady coz of the drop

Had a hard time keeping my legs steady coz of the drop

Rocky Surface to the Top

This is when my legs really started playing all the musical instruments in the world, from Violin to Sitar to Mandolin plus the Base Guitar too. I was sitting rather leaning on the rock looking around as if a trapped animal, horror written all over my face and Chanaka mocking me all the time but Nava mama and Kalu Malli reassuring that this could be done with no problem. If only my legs could understand this. Kalu malli went up with the rope expertly as if walking along Galle Road (This is what we usually call in Sinhala as “Game Yanawa”) the length of the rope and rested himself in a gap tying it around his waist and supporting with the foot.

Everyone had to take off shoes and walk barefoot or with rubber slippers but I wouldn’t hear any of that. I was adamant and refused to remove shoes no matter what happened. Finally everybody gave in to my request and agreed to help me more along the way. Chanaka went first carrying two bags with him without even touching the rope making me jittery. Then it was Mihindu’s turn and the bugger was practically shitting himself as he held on to the rope and started crawling up the surface. Chanaka was screaming at him giving instructions as to how to go up but not to crawl like a tortoise. He took no notice of this as he kept looking below and going one step at a time. Nava mama sensibly asked him to stop about 100ft up and rest himself while someone else goes to where Kalu Malli was waiting.

I wasn’t gonna be the next instead pushed Dodam to the devil’s mouth but he went up like a monkey expertly holding the rope and walking in a more professional manner, even teaching me how to do it. Chanaka kept shouting at Mihindu to learn how to do it and after Dodam got to the top in a jiffy, he started the rest of the journey with sheer agony hovering like a cloud over him. After a long time, he was with Kalu malli and the rest of the crew and it was Sri Abeywickrema’s turn to try this horrendous bit. I’d never done any rope climbing like this before but sheer longing of Lakegala kept me going. I guess she made me feel stronger giving me moral support all the way.

I left the backpack with Nava mama who said he’d take it with him and I took hold of the rope, imagine myself floating in heaven, imitated Dodam as best as I could and climbed up. Surprisingly it was not so difficult and I made good speed and reached the first check point with no problem. This made everyone taking Mihindu for the bite of the day. Having reached the resting place and waiting for Nava mama to come with the rope gave me some time to shoot a video and take some breathtaking pics.

The team got together at the first check point and heaved a sigh of relief. There was no going back now but upwards. Kalu malli as usual took the rope and got to the top as far as the rope would let and rested himself allowing us to move up. We followed the same routine but this was one of the most difficult bits out of the four. It took us longer and made us exhausted beyond imagination. I wanted water more than anything and after everyone got together at the check point 2; we had a couple of sips of water. It felt like heaven when cold water trickling down your throat making you feel so relaxed. I was so happy with myself. Two more difficult climbs and it’d be down to walking through the thick Mana bushes to the top.

Everything was repeated the same order and we reached the 3rd check point which was the most difficult. It drained all my energy and Nava mama was always behind me pushing and helping me get a proper foothold which is difficult with my shoes. Despite all the difficulties we all reached the 3rd check point and celebrated in style but one more to go. It was relatively easy and the sun was hiding behind clouds already and the time was already getting to 5.30pm. My idea of reaching the top by 5.30pm shattered into many million pieces right in front of me but I was hopeful to get to the top somehow or the other.

Final stretch, we hurried and even Mihindu after so much climbing made it easily and we left the rope tied to the iron rod at the 3rd check point and a tree at the check point 4. Just remember there are two iron roads buried in the rocky surface at check point 2 and 3 making it easy to tie a rope. We started walking kind of a horizontal line trying to make a circular path to the top but surprisingly the top is heavily overgrown with Mana Bushes and worse 4-6 feet tall trees covering the whole ground making the walk through nearly impossible. I’d never been a fan of Mana bushes but in this journey it was my best friend. I’d never been happier to see Mana bushes in my whole life.

We didn’t bother taking any more sips of water coz it was crucial we keep as much as possible for the worst case scenario. Walking through the jungle holding onto the Mana bushes for the dear life even though it meant your palms were getting cut all over. We were relentless after all these obstacles, nothing was gonna stop us from reaching our goal now. However, the darkness kept enveloping us as time went past 6.15pm giving only a faint light to see where we were going. After a while, having gone right and left, we figured that we were hopelessly lost and was worried sick. However after a while, King Ravana looked upon us as Kalu malli shouted of finding a path.

We all flocked around him to see clear signs of someone walked through the Mana bushes leaving a clear trail. Nava mama said no one had come to the top in a long time so there simply can’t be a trail like this, especially through all these heavily overgrown trees and plants. Nava mama said the King Ravana must’ve felt sorry for us and showing the path. He also told us a story that happened about 15 years ago. Once a group of village youths had climbed the Lakegala and ran out of water. So they had walked here and there trying to get some water but obviously there’s no water source on top. However one person had spotted water gushing through a cracked rocky surface and immediately called the others and filled their canteens.

Having stayed the night and they decided to go search for the water source in the morning. When they went, there wasn’t a sign of the water source. So people believe that if you’re good-natured, well-behaved, you’d be looked after by the Ravana the God. I feel the same thing happened to us, he looked upon us and showed us the path. We followed it all the way for about half a km till we reached where people of Meemure (45 in all) had done a Pirith Chanting ceremony on the summit having erected a Pirith Mandapa in 1998. The trail took us to the very spot and we saw the remaining wooden planks and tied clothes on the trees. We hungrily gulped some water but Chanaka kept a tight rein over our quota once again blaming Mihindu for dropping that water bottle.

 

Kalu malli took the rope up and Chanaka following him, not even touching the rope

Kalu malli took the rope up and Chanaka following him, not even touching the rope

Directing Kalu malli's ascent

Directing Kalu malli’s ascent

Mihindu trying to crawl up while Nava mama giving directions

Mihindu trying to crawl up while Nava mama giving directions

Just like a snail

Just like a snail

"Ayyo, not anymore"

“Ayyo, not anymore”

"Kollo bima balanna epa" - Nava mama must've said this more than 100 times

“Kollo bima balanna epa” – Nava mama must’ve said this more than 100 times

Check point 2, Nava mama coming up with the baggage

Check point 2, Nava mama coming up with the baggage

Scared Mihindu, but Kalu malli kept videoing while holding onto the rope

Scared Mihindu, but Kalu malli kept videoing while holding onto the rope

The Sherpas of Meemure, Nava mama and Chanaka

The Sherpas of Meemure, Nava mama and Chanaka

It was all Mihindu's show

It was all Mihindu’s show

I kept looking up coz was too scared to look down

I kept looking up coz was too scared to look down

Dodam had very little problems compared to me

Dodam had very little problems compared to me

Sun was slowly dipping below the mountains of Riverston

Sun was slowly dipping below the mountains of Riverston

The reliable climber, Kalu malli led the journey all the way

The reliable climber, Kalu malli led the journey all the way

I was dead scared to see him climb like that

I was dead scared to see him climb like that

Look at Nava mama

Look at Nava mama

The Iron Rod at Check Point 3, we had done 3/4 of rope climbing and one more to go. Sun is going away so fast

The Iron Rod at Check Point 3, we had done 3/4 of rope climbing and one more to go. Sun is going away so fast

Final stretch

Final stretch

Last pic before we reached the campsite... was too busy holding onto Mana bushes than taking pics and low light didn't help either

Last pic before we reached the campsite… was too busy holding onto Mana bushes than taking pics and low light didn’t help either

Camping on the Top

The place had been invaded by trees and we fortunately had the machete and switching on our torches, Kalu Malli, Chanaka, Nava Mama, Mihindu and Dodam started clearing a camping site for our two tents. There was very little flat ground and we cleared enough to put up our two tents and beyond that cleared a bit more for our kitchen. I was thankful for Nava mama to have invited Kalu Malli and Chanaka as those two lads, strong as horses, kept at hacking until the ground was cleared and ready to put up the tents.

They didn’t stop for one second and got the tent up and about under 10mins. Keeping our bags inside, we started setting up the kitchen. Kalu malli expertly dug a hole in the ground to light the fire because we didn’t want any fire cracklings making their way into the dry Mana bushes lighting the whole area making us BBQed alive. I took out the packet of candles and lit them around the camp fire so as to save the power on our torches. It felt very intimate to stay among the candles. There wasn’t a hint of rain but we felt distant rumblings towards Riverston but nothing came even close to us. We were a happy bunch and Kalu malli soon boiled water and made Black coffee mixed with Samahan for our battered bodies. I called it Kalu malli’s Kasaya but we savored every drop of it.

We didn’t plan to cook anything that night coz wanted to save water for breakfast. Unfolding the Manioc and Roti parcels with Lunu Miris, we faced a dilemma coz if we used our hands, we had to wash them and we simply couldn’t afford to waste water for that. We improvised by cutting the roti into small pieces and used sticks cut away from the nearby trees as tooth picks or folks and dug into the pieces of Manioc and Roti and spread them with Lunu Miris by rolling them along the paste and ate in chunks. Gosh, it tasted so good and we could use the water otherwise used to wash hands now to drink in long gulps rather than sip.

We walked a bit downhill towards the tip of Lakegala and flashed our torches towards the village. I felt so glad that the village now bears electricity. We could make out lights and the villagers took out their torched and flashed them back at us. The whole village knew of our ascend to the top and we were like Royals sitting at Buckingham Palace.

After that, we sat around the fire talking about the day’s events and deciding what to do on the following day. Around 9.30pm, we crawled inside our tight-fitting tents (thankfully we all were lean fellas) and prepared for the dream angel to come hug us as tightly as possible. It took me so long to sleep coz I was so excited and kept listening to the sounds of the jungle and the hum of insects and various birds. The wind was kept to a minimum, barely rustling even the leaves, the rain kept so far away but Nava mama had put up the rain covers on top of our tents just in case. It proved to be a very wise decision coz in the morning we found hundreds of dew drops sitting on them. Without them, we would’ve chilled to the bone.

 

Took under 10mns to set them up

Took under 10mns to set them up

Chanaka and Mihindu making a hole for the hearth

Chanaka and Mihindu making a hole for the hearth

I lit the whole area up with candles

I lit the whole area up with candles

Kalu malli waiting for the water to boil, look at the candles

Kalu malli waiting for the water to boil, look at the candles

On the tree as well

On the tree as well

Very faint signal and Nava mama calling home to inform that we arrived safely

Very faint signal and Nava mama calling home to inform that we arrived safely

Adding firewood ever so gently

Adding firewood ever so gently

Going well

Going well

The all-rounder

The all-rounder

The short walk from tents to the kitchen is lighted by candles to save power of torches

The short walk from tents to the kitchen is lighted by candles to save power of torches

"Badaginiyoooooooooooo"

“Badaginiyoooooooooooo”

Boiled to the perfection

Boiled to the perfection

Improvisation

Improvisation

Manioc vanished into thin air and time to dig into Rotti

Manioc vanished into thin air and time to dig into Rotti

After a hearty meal, team reflecting on day's events

After a hearty meal, team reflecting on day’s events

Fire going strongly

Fire going strongly

Sharing a joke, for the first time Mihindu found something to laugh

Sharing a joke, for the first time Mihindu found something to laugh

Night life, a Cricket coming out of its protective layer

Night life, a Cricket coming out of its protective layer

Closer

Closer

Good night team!

Good night team!

Day 03

I beat the alarm set for 5.30am and got up at 5.00am instead. Opening the tent door showed the first faint rays of the morning sun and I woke the others up. Getting up and we walked about 20m downhill where there was the tip of Lakegala and set up our cameras and waited for the Sun to make his royal entrance. We saw the paddy fields of Meemure below us and people had already come out of their houses looking up and waving at us. Nava mama had his binocular with him and we could clearly see the people and houses below.

All of a sudden, the sun made his appearance, the reddish orange fiery ball coming out of the sky warming the whole area. We took pics and the villagers below took out their mirrors and reflected them against the sunlight so that we can see. Nearby mountains were lit up instantly, we saw Gala Muduna, Aththala Mattuwa, Andirigala, Bambaragala, Rahana Ketu Pahana, Wannimana, Uda Wannimana, Kalu Kele, Thunnisgala aka Gombani (The highest point in Knuckles Mountain Range) and the Riverston side. There are plenty of other mountains but their names are beyond me. Not to worry, Nava mama have mentioned all that in the videos I’ve posted.

I embraced the moment with both hands and wanted to shout from the top of my voice but managed to restrain myself just in time. In the meantime, Kalu malli, Chanaka, Mihindu and Dodam were busily making morning tea and shouted us to join them. It tasted yummy coz Nava mama had packed pieces of very tasty jiggery. Wow, what a bed tea it turned out to be. After that, we started boiling water for the noodles and Nava mama went deep into the jungle and found a solid tree trunk for us to tie the makeshift white flag made out of a sarong.

He came out with not only the tree trunk, but also a bunch of Karapincha leaves. We added few leaves to the boiling noodles to add flavor and once finished served them onto our aricanut leave plates in equal portions. Then opened the baked bean can and poured it into the pan and once it came to boiling temperature, poured it over the noodles. Using own-made folks we ate the whole plate in a few mouthfuls and drank our precious water. Chanaka’s sensible handling of water kept us enough to last the whole journey. Just imaging 6 people using only 16 liters of water for nearly 24hrs, simply unbelievable.

 

Good Morning!

Good Morning!

The fiery ball is slowly coming out of hiding

The fiery ball is slowly coming out of hiding

Look at the colors

Look at the colors

The closest I could get without burning myself

The closest I could get without burning myself

The tip of Lakegala is just below

The tip of Lakegala is just below

Still bleary-eyed Nava mama

Still bleary-eyed Nava mama

Hiya!

Hiya!

The moon was on the other end

The moon was on the other end

Towards Corbet's Gap

Towards Corbet’s Gap

Thunnisgala in the distance. See the shadow of Lakegala?

Thunnisgala in the distance. See the shadow of Lakegala?

The drop towards Meemure

The drop towards Meemure

Nobody’s in

Nobody’s in

They're busily making tea

They’re busily making tea

Ever working Kalu Malli getting ready to make tea for us

Ever working Kalu Malli getting ready to make tea for us

Mihindu too joined the cooking

Mihindu too joined the cooking

What does this remind you of? "Kome Pittu"

What does this remind you of? “Kome Pittu”

Nearly ready

Nearly ready

We added freshly plucked Karapincha for flavor

We added freshly plucked Karapincha for flavor

Something I'd never had

Something I’d never had

Trying hard to boil it in the same container but in the end we had to serve the noodles to our Puwak Plates and boil it in the pan

Trying hard to boil it in the same container but in the end we had to serve the noodles to our Puwak Plates and boil it in the pan

Chanaka too joined the party

Chanaka too joined the party

Nava mama with a bunch of Karapincha leaves

Nava mama with a bunch of Karapincha leaves

Serving the noodles to our Puwak Kola plates

Serving the noodles to our Puwak Kola plates

What a feast!

What a feast!

Hungry

Hungry

Chanaka digging in

Chanaka digging in

Nava mama couldn't play around with folks

Nava mama couldn’t play around with folks

Kalu Malli using a Puwak Kola spoon

Kalu Malli using a Puwak Kola spoon

The Cricket on Chanaka's T-shirt, could it be the one who came out last night?

The Cricket on Chanaka’s T-shirt, could it be the one who came out last night?

Macro

Macro

Chanaka waving his T-shirt at the villagers

Chanaka waving his T-shirt at the villagers

Bovitiya

Bovitiya

Very rare flower - Binara

Very rare flower – Binara

Nava mama busily erecting the flag

Nava mama busily erecting the flag

Nava mama finally did it

Nava mama finally did it

Unknown one for us

Unknown one for us

Nava mama checking if the flag would hold

Nava mama checking if the flag would hold

The champion of Meemure on top of the Hallmark

The champion of Meemure on top of the Hallmark

 

Chanaka improvised it like a Yacht

Chanaka improvised it like a Yacht

Mamai - Benai

Mamai – Benai

 

image293

I could've spent the rest of life looking at this breath-taking view

I could’ve spent the rest of life looking at this breath-taking view

Majestic view towards Thunnisgala, ths height of the Lakegala Shadow slowly decreasing

Majestic view towards Thunnisgala, ths height of the Lakegala Shadow slowly decreasing

Paddyfields of Meemure up close

Paddyfields of Meemure up close

Nava mama resting on the top

Nava mama resting on the top

Wow

Wow

Villagers kept flashing mirrors at us and we in kind responded

Villagers kept flashing mirrors at us and we in kind responded

Cleared the campsite completely

Cleared the campsite completely

The kitchen too was cleaned to the max. Not a scrap of paper was left behind

The kitchen too was cleaned to the max. Not a scrap of paper was left behind

The team except Dodam... ready to go down... Gosh my legs already shaking

The team except Dodam… ready to go down… Gosh my legs already shaking

Going downhill

We folded the tents in record time and got everything packed. Put out the fire and covered our hearth with wet soil to make sure nothing will escape into the mana bushes. Packed our bags, now so much lighter and started our descend downhill along the same footpath that King Ravana had found for us. Kalu malli as usual led the way and had a tough time helping me cross certain areas. We came across gorgeous Binara plants full of royal purplish blue flowers, and a very rare medicinal plant called Maha Hadaya.

Helped by the mana bushes, we finally arrived where we’d left the rope tied between check points 4 and 3 and had some more water before launching into the space. Chanaka got to the 3rd point with no problem followed by Mihindu again getting blamed and laughed by others. Dodam had no problem either and I was practically shivering when it was my chance. I had to go, no choice whether I liked it or not. Nava mama sensing my discomfort took things to his control and held my while I grabbed the rope and slowly guided me to the point 3. I simply refused to look down until my legs touched the safety of where the others waiting. When I reached, I hugged the rocky wall and started to relax my superfast heart rate.

Kalu malli came down with the rope and we had the two most difficult stretches ahead us and dropped the rope downhill. Chanaka, Mihindu and Dodam took the rope and went to point 2 and Nava mama guided me slowly downhill. There was one place where I lost footing and thankfully he was there holding onto me. Once he had to make me sit on his head as I found it difficult to support myself, gosh, narrow escape those are. Finally I was at point 2 and same intense procedure took me and the rest of the team to point 1 and the beginning of the rocky surface. I couldn’t help laughing like a madman. Everybody patted everyone else on the back for a job well done and I felt proud of my team who did more than I expected to make it a success and a memorable one.

We drank more water coz the downhill journey was gonna be a walk in the park. However, my legs wouldn’t listen to what my mind says, they kept going at their own pace and own way while I tried to balance my lower body with the upper body. Couple times I fell adding more bruises to the existing ones but didn’t mind them one bit. They were all a part of the mega project and it was such a trivial obstacle compared to the greater achievement. We opened a packet of lemon puff and ate it in seconds followed by more water.

It took us about another hour of maneuvering through thorn bushes and loose rocks to get to the base pool. We got rid of our bags and threw our clothes away and jumped into the water. My whole body was smarted from ice cold water where there were dozens of bruises yet I didn’t mind it for a second. Having a proper bath after 24hrs is something to rejoice. Kalu malli still refused to jump in water coz he started boiling water to make some tea and we opened two more biscuit packets in celebration. What strength of pillars they were to us.

After about half hour waiting, we started our journey back to Meemure. We walked as fast as our legs would permit and made very good time and reached the Bo Maluwa by 2.00pm. Dodam, Mihindu, Chanaka and finally Kalu malli went for a dip in the Meemure Oya while Nava mama and I waited for them. A group of boys who had tried to climb to the top but failed were there and they were very surprised to see us in one piece. They’d seen our torch flashes previous nights and we could see the white dot of our flag flying in the wind.

I looked at Lakegala and thanked her for being so hospitable and keeping us safe. Finally after 360 days of waiting, my dream came true thanks to Nava mama and the crew. It was a blissful experience and the most difficult hike in my life to date. The rest of the gang joined us after their dip and we walked back towards Mee Tree where Nava mama’s son was waiting with the tuk-tuk. I’d never been so pleased to see a tuk-tuk in my life and we reached home around 3.00pm. After a half hour bath under the shower, washing away all the grime as much as I could, I was ready for a feast.

The rest of the evening was all reserved for celebration and reflection. We kept sharing our experiences, reliving those scary moments but now they were scenes of fun, watching the videos I shot and looking at the pics. It was so amazing.

I wanted to walk to Thangappuwa from Corbet’s Gap and decided to take the van in the morning and get down at Corbet’s Gap and walk the 4km-jeep track. After dinner and many deliberations, we finally went to sleep around 9.00pm and slept like logs.

The Video Journey to Lakegala

This has nearly 75mins of video (14 short videos) and hope you enjoy it as much as the report.

 

Kalu malli with the machete

Kalu malli with the machete

Here's our flag being twisted by the wind

Here’s our flag being twisted by the wind

Breath-taking view all around

Breath-taking view all around

The team coming down

The team coming down

Kudalu Flower

Kudalu Flower

"Binara Malee Ekka Enna - Binara Mahe Meda”

“Binara Malee Ekka Enna – Binara Mahe Meda”

Maha Hadaya - A very rare medicinal plant

Maha Hadaya – A very rare medicinal plant

"How to get down?" - The big guns doing the planning

“How to get down?” – The big guns doing the planning

Can't go down

Can’t go down

Not seen them anywhere before

Not seen them anywhere before

Mana bushes were the hero of the day

Mana bushes were the hero of the day

Clouds were coming thick and fast and it rained in the evening letting us know that we were given a special window to do this hike

Clouds were coming thick and fast and it rained in the evening letting us know that we were given a special window to do this hike

Just look at the color

Just look at the color

Mihindu had overcome most of his phobia by now

Mihindu had overcome most of his phobia by now

They can stay like this forever

They can stay like this forever

Don't look down

Don’t look down

Ready to go

Ready to go

I tried to delay the agony as long as possible by taking pics this and that

I tried to delay the agony as long as possible by taking pics this and that

"Dodam, watch it. Don't look down"

“Dodam, watch it. Don’t look down”

I nearly fainted

I nearly fainted

We couldn't thank enough for whoever had put this here

We couldn’t thank enough for whoever had put this here

Kalu malli coming down using a double knot

Kalu malli coming down using a double knot

Ready to climb the rest of it

Ready to climb the rest of it

The most difficult bit, Chanak not scared one bit

The most difficult bit, Chanak not scared one bit

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Difficult to capture amid all these clouds

Difficult to capture amid all these clouds

Chanaka was the first to go down followed by Dodam and Mihindu

Chanaka was the first to go down followed by Dodam and Mihindu

Gotta be very careful not to get stuck in the crevice

Gotta be very careful not to get stuck in the crevice

You can't imagine what we went through

You can’t imagine what we went through

These mountains were a nice distraction from our sheer agony

These mountains were a nice distraction from our sheer agony

They were to first to reach the safety

They were to first to reach the safety

Kalu malli had a lot of responsibilities

Kalu malli had a lot of responsibilities

Thunnisgala, final glimpses

Thunnisgala, final glimpses

He kept snapping at everything, but just look at the depth

He kept snapping at everything, but just look at the depth

Still some more to come

Still some more to come

Will he ever stop?

Will he ever stop?

Coming down headlong

Coming down headlong

Finally everyone safely at the base of the rock, yet so far to go. We enjoyed the lemon puff with plenty of water

Finally everyone safely at the base of the rock, yet so far to go. We enjoyed the lemon puff with plenty of water

I couldn't believe we climbed up and down along this

I couldn’t believe we climbed up and down along this

Hi sweetie, I'm back in one piece

Hi sweetie, I’m back in one piece

Could belong to a Sambar Deer

Could belong to a Sambar Deer

This was huge, but when it rains it must make a gigantic waterfall

This was huge, but when it rains it must make a gigantic waterfall

Had to come practically crawling down

Had to come practically crawling down

Finally at the base pool, but Kalu malli won't have a break. He made tea for us after all the climbing

Finally at the base pool, but Kalu malli won’t have a break. He made tea for us after all the climbing

Not a yard of tea

Not a yard of tea

He kept bathing

He kept bathing

Chanaka and Mihindu relaxing

Chanaka and Mihindu relaxing

This must be a dead bull's

This must be a dead bull’s

The team, the guys in the back were there at the canal taking pics

The team, the guys in the back were there at the canal taking pics

Enjoying the cool water

Enjoying the cool water

Look at Mihindu's smile

Look at Mihindu’s smile

Towards Gala Muduna

Towards Gala Muduna

I can't resist taking pics of this lush green

I can’t resist taking pics of this lush green

Remember him? This is Ekanayake Mama who climbed the Lakegala in his 80s

Remember him? This is Ekanayake Mama who climbed the Lakegala in his 80s

I couldn't be happier looking at her from Bo Maluwa

I couldn’t be happier looking at her from Bo Maluwa

Nava mama showing and boasting to one of his fellow mates

Nava mama showing and boasting to one of his fellow mates

Pinky was waiting to welcome us back

Pinky was waiting to welcome us back

Emerald Dove on the hunt

Emerald Dove on the hunt

Dinky was wondering where we had been

Dinky was wondering where we had been

Hungry beyond words

Hungry beyond words

Day 04

We got up at 4.30am still bleary eyed and got ready to leave. I heard the household comes alive as Nava mama’s wife too was going in the van to Hunnasgiriya to take medicine. We had our bed tea and bid farewell to Nava mama and came to the road waiting for the van. It came around 5.35am and we got seats and I was hoping to get some shut eye till we reached Corbet’s Gap. However all that shattered when the van got filled with wave after wave of people and the Isuzu company must be very proud of themselves for making such tough vehicles that last under harsh conditions like these.

I was squashed between two people, then three and four until I was forced to get up and go to the footboard. It was so tough going on the footboard too as my arms and legs were on fire. I remembered the time when we loved going on the footboards in the buses. How things change over time? It was the longest ride in my life as I felt the Corbet’s Gap kept going away from us. Finally after about an hour, which felt like a year in hell, we reached the magnificent Corbet’s Gap when the sun was appearing over Dumbara Mountains.

Corbet’s Gap to Thangappuwa

We didn’t waste time hanging around and immediately set off. There are two hotels (you can see them when you’re coming towards Meemure in the distance) and other than that nothing else related to human activities. If you’ve been to Meemure before, you might’ve seen a building just off the Corbet’s Gap in ruins. It used to belong to a wealthy businessman who dealt in Enasal (Cardamom) but when the ban came, it was abandoned.

The jeep track from Corbet’s Gap to Thangappuwa is also a result of cardamom business but now it’s pretty much not in use other than hikers like us. The track is in good shape except for the first 500-600m. It’s wider than the Meemure Road and even a normal vehicle (without 4WD) can maneuver easily, but would be tricky for a car. However leeches were there in numbers and bit us at every opportunity. There were plenty of birds and butterflies but too fast for our lenses. However, we came across a jungle fowl prowling along the road hunting for breakfast.

There was a Devalaya about 1.5km away from Thangappuwa with a concrete bridge. We saw signs of Acacia plant either side of the road. Knuckles Mountains were towering over Thangappuwa and separating Meemure from it. We walked slow but steady and reached the village in about 2hrs. Just before the village at the side of the road is the cemetery of Thangappuwa. They’d even used blocks of solid rocks to cover the graves; I guess the wild boars might be digging them.

The village has a mixed population of Sinhalese and Tamils, mainly due to the tea estates. We came to a shop hoping for some breakfast but they don’t do that there. Dodam improvised by buying a packet of cream crackers and Umbalakada Sambol and making cracking sandwiches. Thankfully the lady at the shop offered to make some plain tea after listening to our narration of the past 3 days. They knew Nava mama (well who doesn’t?) and told us the path to Alugallena runs from Thangappuwa and easily accessible.

Fortunately for us, there was a bus going all the way to Kandy at 9.45am and we spent that time talking to this nice old couple. They were happy that we did so much walking coz in their time they had done their fair share of hiking too. The bus came on time and we got into and bidding farewell to them. Finally a seat to rest my knackered bones and I slept on and off till we reached Kandy.

From Kandy we headed to Colombo, amid hot and humid air hitting us in full force.

Well, well, well, that’s it then. Finally after so long I managed to do my dream hike and took nearly that long to bring this across to you. Hope you enjoyed it and just take the notes and advice given seriously.

This is Sri signing off for now and will see you again with another of my fairy tale.

Until then, take care and keep travelling…

 

Corbet's Gap Junction, take the left jeep track

Corbet’s Gap Junction, take the left jeep track

The first bit was not in good condition but got better afterwards

The first bit was not in good condition but got better afterwards

Through the cardamom trees

Through the cardamom trees

Here's the cardamom flower

Here’s the cardamom flower

A Cardamom Seed

A Cardamom Seed

Could've taken millions of these but leeches made it so difficult

Could’ve taken millions of these but leeches made it so difficult

Road is still very bad

Road is still very bad

More like Horton Plains

More like Horton Plains

One of the two hotels along the slope

One of the two hotels along the slope

These are a very common sight

These are a very common sight

Dumbara Mountains

Dumbara Mountains

Very beautiful

Very beautiful

Now the track is in a better condition

Now the track is in a better condition

More of them

More of them

Endless supply of pic taking opportunities

Endless supply of pic taking opportunities

The road to the infinity

The road to the infinity

Here I am

Here I am

The colors are awesome

The colors are awesome

Leeches were there in numbers

Leeches were there in numbers

Wow

Wow

Here's the fella, had to zoom in all the way

Here’s the fella, had to zoom in all the way

Towards Thangappuwa

Towards Thangappuwa

Twins and a tiny fella feeding on one

Twins and a tiny fella feeding on one

Another uncommon one

Another uncommon one

The Devalaya by the road

The Devalaya by the road

The bunch of yellowies

The bunch of yellowies

The road is very broad, than even Meemure's

The road is very broad, than even Meemure’s

I was wondering if it was true they said only 4km

I was wondering if it was true they said only 4km

Beautiful colors but was too high

Beautiful colors but was too high

They don't escape me that easily

They don’t escape me that easily

Here's the cemetery along the road, see they have used rocks to cover the grave

Here’s the cemetery along the road, see they have used rocks to cover the grave

Village is just round the corner

Village is just round the corner

She was so sweet

She was so sweet

The Budu Medura

The Budu Medura

Our breakfast

Our breakfast

Here's Thangappuwa

Here’s Thangappuwa

He was by the shop

He was by the shop

Too far away to go and pluck

Too far away to go and pluck

The road towards Rangala

The road towards Rangala

The path to Alugallena is somewhere in the middle of the pic

The path to Alugallena is somewhere in the middle of the pic

Nava Mama's Business Card...

Nava Mama’s Business Card…

Enjoy the collection of Panos here:

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Beginning of the Waterfall Season in Rathnapura: The Most Breath-Taking of All – Tour de Waterfalls 1…

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0
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Year and Month 01 May, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew 3 (Hasitha, Tony and Me)
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Car
Activities Waterfall Hunting, Photography, etc…
Weather Excellent but was gloomy at times.
Route Maharagama->Kottawa->Galanigama along E1->Rathnapura->Kuruwita->Rathnapura->Pelmadulla->Opanayake and back on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Try to go during the rainy season to see water on most of the falls. Even during rains, you might find there’s very little water to speak of due to Mini Hydro Power Plants which spread like a cancer.
  • Leech Protection won’t be a bad idea.
  • Try to visit them as early as possible (between 6.30am and 8.30am) in order to avoid love-making couples, drunkards and huge crowds.
  • Take water with you as many of the water sources can’t be trusted for drinking purposes due to various activities.
  • Wear shoes if possible as most of the footpaths and bases of the falls are full of broken glass thanks to stupid travelers. Take precaution and watch your step. Remove any broken pieces and dump them away from the footpath whenever possible. That’s the least you can do.
  • Don’t litter or harm the Nature in anyway.
  • Bring back only the Pics and Memories.
  • I’ve given the directions as accurately as possible. However, nothing like asking the residents of the area just to confirm and make small talk.
  • Guidance from Ashan’s Trip Report – Waterfalls, the Endless Desire (Rathnapura to Balangoda)
  • I’ve tried my best to be as accurately as possible with the directions and the distances. So bear with me for any miscalculations as they all were done in my mind with no sophisticated gadgets.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

DedicationI’d like to dedicate this report for everyone who’s ever bothered to share their travelling experience with others such as writing a trip report or using a post. Folks, your time and efforts are very much appreciated and continue the good work.

Hi folks, I’m back with yet another Journey and this will be the first of another type, Waterfall Hunting aka Tour de Waterfalls. I’ll try to keep these too short and sweet like my Pic Journeys so that you won’t have to spend that long to finish reading them.

Ok, so let me straight get down to business without any hanky-panky.

The 1 May that has a very dramatic history behind was about to be celebrated yet again by all the laborers and working people around the world. Unfortunately in SL, it’s nothing but political drama being played on vividly decorated stages by bringing hundreds and thousands of people to Colombo from all around the corner using our public transport buses depriving the needy to go anywhere on that day.

We decided to celebrate this historical day with the beloved Mother Nature by visiting the Best Creation of her, the majestic Waterfalls. While the Sri Pada season is about to wind down and the South-West monsoon rains are beginning to hit the parched and cracked earth bringing that freshly earth smell with it. Trees were beginning to dress nicely and Hasitha out of nowhere suggested we do a waterfall hunt on A4.

We found very vital pieces of info from one of Ashan’s trip reports way back in 2012. This is why I love trip reports. You can get some very crucial pieces of info even after years thanks to the people who had bothered to share their experience. Lakdasun is becoming the best knowledge bank thanks to these when it comes to visiting SL.

Uncle Tony, after a long silence, decided to break the shackles and join us but not before his majesty granted him permission. I felt lucky to be single after all. We got together on the dawn of 1 May and headed towards the Kottawa under the capable hands of Hasitha while Tony started typical Pacha Stories to keep us awake.

The Path we took in details:

Maharagama->Kottawa->E1 up to Galanigama Exit->Rathnapura->Kuruwita->Take the Devipahala Road->Bopath Ella.

Continue further up the Devipahala Road->Dodan Ella.

Back to Kuruwita->Weralupa Junction->Turn to Kospelawinna Road (Mahawela Estate Road->Katugas Falls.

Back on A4->Thiruwanaketiya->Take Nivithigala-Kalawana Road->Marapana->Rajana Falls.

Back to Thiruwanaketiya->Maswatte Junction before Lellopitiya->Nuga Lena Monastery Road->Hathbili Ella.

Back on A4->Pathakada Junction->Devalegama Road (Buddhist College)->Pulun Ella.

Back on A4->Pelmadulla->Opanayake-Ellepola->Ellepola Falls (138km Post – 138/11 Bokkuwa).

 

Tour Highlights:

 1. Bopath Ella – Kuruwita

2. Dodan Ella – Kuruwita

3. Katugas Falls – Weralupa

4. Rajana Falls – Marapana

5. Hathbili Falls – Lellopitiya

6. Pulun Ella – Pathakada

7. Ellepola Ella – Opanayake

So let’s get started:

Bopath Ella – Kuruwita

Take the Devipahala Road near the Kuruwita Pradeshiya Sabha (to your right when coming from Ratnapura side) for about 2-3km until you reach the turn off to your right to Bopath Ella. There’s a Pradeshiya Sabha Car Park about 500m down the road. If you are early you can drive right up to the ticket counter, further 500m or so.

N.B. You have to buy tickets Rs. 20/- each. Wear your school uniforms and get a 50% discount. Further, you have to cross the river to get to the base of the falls. This might be tricky due to flash floods and rise in the water levels within a very short time. Be careful and don’t try anything which might endanger you or your team.

 

Don't forget the school uniform and get the 50% discount

Don’t forget the school uniform and get the 50% discount

Please do these not just read and forget

Please do these not just read and forget

The info about the waterfall

The info about the waterfall

View from the steps

View from the steps

Calm and placid water

Calm and placid water

These guys were showing us the safe passage

These guys were showing us the safe passage

Early morning and she was simply awesome

Early morning and she was simply awesome

Closer

Closer

More

More

Right up to her face... very kissable

Right up to her face… very kissable

The stem of the Bo Leaf

The stem of the Bo Leaf

Bopath Ella on fire? Nope it's jus the water vapor

Bopath Ella on fire? Nope it’s jus the water vapor

The trio

The trio

Tackling the slippery rocks while keeping an eye out for broken glass

Tackling the slippery rocks while keeping an eye out for broken glass

Gushing down

Gushing down

Up to knee level

Up to knee level

For them, it's just a part of day-to-day life

For them, it’s just a part of day-to-day life

Dodan Ella – Kuruwita

Get back to the turn off of Bopath Ella and turn to your right further up Devipahala Road for another km or so till you reach the Dodan Ella Road (the road name is that with a sign) to your right in front of a shop. There’s a huge concrete man-made canal and just follow it till you reach the falls to your left next to a house. You can get to the top of the falls as well.

 

The typical village mud houses still at large

The typical village mud houses still at large

The top of Dodan Ella

The top of Dodan Ella

The fall is just beyond the edge

The fall is just beyond the edge

We were treated to some clear skies

We were treated to some clear skies

The water seeping through the tank like structure on the top

The water seeping through the tank like structure on the top

The falls seen from the top

The falls seen from the top

Good for a Lakdasun Gathering

Good for a Lakdasun Gathering

Here she is

Here she is

Just the right amount of water

Just the right amount of water

Gorgeous

Gorgeous

Portrait

Portrait

The below

The below

Could keep looking at her forever

Could keep looking at her forever

Time to go

Time to go

Common ones in the area

Common ones in the area

Katugas Falls – Weralupa

Along the A4 just before Ratnapura town, you’ll come to Weralupa Junction where there’s a turn off to your left called Kospelawinna Road, also called Mahawela Estate Road. Take this road straight till you reach a football ground to your right. (About 2-3km away from the A4). This is your landmark and there’s a small bridge (more like a Bokkuwa) and take the tiny path to the left of it along the waterway for about 100-150m till you reach the falls.

N.B. You’ll come across a tiny falls which flows along a slanting rocky slab go further up and there’s a tiny waterfall to your right similar to Gal Oruwa Ella, Wedda Peni Ella or Pilituda Ella which I named Katugas Mini Falls. You have to go further uphill for another 100-200m to reach the real Katugas Falls.

 

See where Tony is pointing. This is just passing the Bokkuwa. The football ground is about 50ft before

See where Tony is pointing. This is just passing the Bokkuwa. The football ground is about 50ft before

Getting to the Katugas Mini Falls

Getting to the Katugas Mini Falls

There she is, very narrow reminds me of few other falls

There she is, very narrow reminds me of few other falls

This is not the couples I was referring to

This is not the couples I was referring to

Up close

Up close

From the top

From the top

Searching for the real Katugas Falls

Searching for the real Katugas Falls

Plenty of safe bathing places available

Plenty of safe bathing places available

Going uphill was a tough ask

Going uphill was a tough ask

There she is... just falling down a narrow passage but hardly any water

There she is… just falling down a narrow passage but hardly any water

The base pool and there's a cave like thing at the bottom

The base pool and there’s a cave like thing at the bottom

The cave is barely visible from here

The cave is barely visible from here

Obscured by the water vapors

Obscured by the water vapors

Rajana Falls – Marapana

Take the road up to Thiruwanaketiya where it’s forked into two. Take the Nivithigala-Kalawana road for about 1km till you meet a bridge with a bend to the right at Marapana Junction. (Not the bridge you meet as soon as you turn to Nivithigala Road.

There’s a fruit stall at the end of the bridge. Take the steps built into go down to the waterway to your left at the beginning of the bridge bordering a house. Follow the path for about 150-200m till you reach the falls.

 

Just at the start of the bridge... The fruit stall is at the end

Just at the start of the bridge… The fruit stall is at the end

Here it is

Here it is

Juicy

Juicy

Beginning the trail

Beginning the trail

Rajana falls too had very little water to offer

Rajana falls too had very little water to offer

Up close... the base pool is almost 320-degrees encircled

Up close… the base pool is almost 320-degrees encircled

The water is muddy

The water is muddy

The top of her

The top of her

There were these fellas having a dip in the top pool

There were these fellas having a dip in the top pool

Here they are waving at us

Here they are waving at us

Hathbili Falls – Lellopitiya

Just before Lellopitiya junction called Maswatte Junction. Here there’s a road to your right with a notice saying Nuga Lena Monastery. Take this for about 500m till you meet a concrete paved 3-way junction. Go straight till you reach a shop (on the wall it says “Nuga Lena Aranya Senasanaya 1.5km with an arrow to the left) and take the left footpath. There are at least 2 different cascades you can visit. The first you meet after about 500-600m along this road. However the correct Hathbili Falls is further up.

Walk some more along this path till you reach the end of the road with a sharp bend to your left. There’s a mud hut with a jack tree and beyond that a large house. The path to the Hathbili Falls is in front of this house through a tea patch about 100m away.

 

Lush greenery

Lush greenery

The shop with the directions go the Nuga Lena Monastery

The shop with the directions go the Nuga Lena Monastery

Leading from the front

Leading from the front

Mangustine

Mangustine

A cascade along the path

A cascade along the path

Abysmal looking

Abysmal looking

Oh dear!

Oh dear!

At the end of the road and see the hut.

At the end of the road and see the hut.

Good for a tea advert

Good for a tea advert

From the top of Hathbili Falls

From the top of Hathbili Falls

No different from others

No different from others

Hmmmm

Hmmmm

Trying his best to capture what little there is

Trying his best to capture what little there is

The middle part

The middle part

This is the top half with a nice pool for a dip

This is the top half with a nice pool for a dip

Crystal clear water

Crystal clear water

Pulun Ella – Pathakada

Go along the A4 towards Pathakada. There’s a road to the right called Devalegama in front of Pinwatta Gems. Go about half a km passing Pathakada Buddhist College till you reach the turn off to your right with a notice on a yellow painted board. The falls is less than 100m from here.

 

I don't think they really are awake having seen many hundreds of liquor bottles and cans

I don’t think they really are awake having seen many hundreds of liquor bottles and cans

Pebbles

Pebbles

Here's Pulun Ella, the lower part

Here’s Pulun Ella, the lower part

Barely any water

Barely any water

The bottom

The bottom

The upper part with a deep water pool for swimming and diving

The upper part with a deep water pool for swimming and diving

The village boys were enjoying making it hard to get a clear pic of the falls

The village boys were enjoying making it hard to get a clear pic of the falls

The top

The top

Ellepola Falls – Opanayake

This is located just off A4 just passing 138th km post at 138/11 Bokkuwa to your right. Ellepola School is just before the falls. It’s easy to miss if you don’t keep an eye out for it.

 

See the diversion of water?

See the diversion of water?

The falls is created by the gap in the wall

The falls is created by the gap in the wall

What a pity!

What a pity!

This the gap which creates Ellepola Falls

This the gap which creates Ellepola Falls

Going downhill trying to reach the base

Going downhill trying to reach the base

Here we are

Here we are

Water going downwards

Water going downwards

Finally some water to speak of

Finally some water to speak of

The bottom

The bottom

Rocky well like place

Rocky well like place

Side view of her

Side view of her

Just reflecting on day's events so far

Just reflecting on day’s events so far

The pic of the day...

The pic of the day…

Time to say good bye

Time to say good bye

What a tragedy most of these falls are facing

What a tragedy most of these falls are facing

Looks cute, ain't he? He was with some people who had come for a bath

Looks cute, ain’t he? He was with some people who had come for a bath

Well, folks, as you see except Bopath and Dodan Ella, all the other waterfalls are nothing glamorous in terms of water levels. This is due to both lack of the rain falls and diversions created by the villagers or local authorities to take water for mini hydro power plants or other purposes. It’s heart breaking to see this happens but there’s nothing we can do. Dodan Ella too will suffer the same fate not long before as we saw a gigantic canal is being made to divert its water elsewhere.

Video Collection of the Waterfalls:

Hope you enjoyed my first encounter this year with waterfalls in a specialized version of my trip reports, Tour de Waterfalls. Hoping against hope that there’ll be some with more water to expose in the upcoming months.

Take care and keep travelling.

 


Irresistible Force of the Nature – Tour de Waterfalls 2…

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Year and Month 13 May, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew 2 (Tony and Me)
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Bike
Activities Photography, Hiking, Waterfall Hunting, Archaeology, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Maharagama->Avissawella->Kuruwita->Erathna->Back to Kuruwita->Ratnapura->Malwala->Sri Palabaddala->Back to Malwala->Wewelwatte->Ratnapura->Maharagama.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Leech Protection will be a good option depending on the weather and your phobia to them.
  • Always choose just after rains to visit them if you wanna see them in full flow or at least some water as many of these are being killed thanks to Mini Hydro Power Plant which spreads like a cancer.
  • Bathing in most of these places is not safe as some of them can be pretty deep. So take necessary precautions.
  • Take drinking water as most of these waterways are now being polluted big time due to agricultural and other activities.
  • Do help save the Nature. Don’t litter or harm anything. If you can, clean the place as much as you can by collecting the litter strewn about and dumping them at the allocated places.
  • Be really careful when you go by bikes as you all well know that the big vehicles don’t give a toss about them. Especially in the night, take extra precaution to avoid a catastrophic event.
  • For many of the people, they are not waterfalls but just waterways. So keep checking and make sure to ask the directions either from young fellows or older people. Young ones will know all the waterfalls but not the names and the older folks know the names.
  • Do hurry up and see as many waterfalls as possible for they’re disappearing rapidly. We’ll soon be left with only the memories and pics.
  • Do check our previous Waterfall Journey of Wewelwatte too for more info.
  • You can check my Tour de Waterfalls 1 here.
  • I’ve tried my best to be as accurately as possible with the directions and the distances. So bear with me for any miscalculations as they all were done in my mind with no sophisticated gadgets.

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hiya everyone and Sri is back with the 2nd of his new variety of trip reports, Waterfall Hunting. I guess you’ve enjoyed the 1st and hoping this too would arouse your interest and make you wanna pay a visit to these beautiful girls ASAP.

After our Hunt on 01 May, I was yearning to do more of them as the season is ideal for it. However, there was this nagging feeling in the back of my mind about visiting Batadomba Lena as well for the past year or so. My visits to Beli Lena, Pahiyangala and Alawala Pre-Historic caves stimulated this idea more and more so decided to get two birds with one stone.

Tony managed to get permission from his Royal Highness and joined me for the 2nd leg of Tour de Waterfalls with his ever so trusted bike which is as old as him. We met around 4.30am and hit the High Level Road and were on our way merrily. However come Godagama and Tony suddenly braked hard to avoid a ghost Tuk-tuk which drove across with no lights whatsoever. The result was the headlamp of our bike came off and was hanging from the wires as a result of the brake. Just imagine how old is the bike and Tony himself. I was worried right throughout that Tony might fall apart just like the bike.

We reached Pussalla just after Parakaduwa where we came across this nice eating place called Suwa Rasa Hala managed by the Ayurvedic Department of Sabaragamuwa Province. It’s on the right hand side of the main road bordered by a dozen or so Na Trees (Our National Tree). We sat down for a meal of very tasty Kola Kenda with real Kithul Jaggery which soon followed by a plateful of rice and curry stimulating our tasty buds to no end. They sell these organic and authentic SL foods such as Varieties of Rice, Garlic in Bee Honey, Ayurvedic Medicine, etc.

After a hearty meal which I had to restrain Tony with a difficulty, we headed towards Kuruwita where this majestic journey was about to begin.

Tour Highlights:

1. Batathota Cave aka Diva Guhawa, Erathna

2. Batadombalena Pre-Historic Cave

3. Elle Gedara Falls, Elle Gedara

4. Dumpus Falls, Gilimale

5. Mapalana aka Mapanana Falls, Mapalana, Sri Palabaddala

6. Haalmehi Falls, Sri Palabaddala

7. Kadurugal Dola Falls, Wewelwatte

8. Beruwatte Falls, Wewelwatte

9. Dehena Falls – Revisited, Amunuthenna

10. Hal Falls – Revisitied, Amunuthenna

11. Katu Kithul Falls – Revisited, Amunuthenna

12. Aanda Falls, Meegasthenna, Galabada

We reached Kuruwita and took the turn off towards Erathna where one of the many routes to Sacred Sri Pada.

Batathota Cave aka Diva Guhawa

Take the Kuruwita-Erathna Road and after about 10km you’ll get a turn off to your left with the signage. This will take you straight to the steps of Batathota Cave Temple. You have to climb about 500-600m to reach the cave with a gigantic Buddha Statue. Unfortunately the door was closed to the cave that held the statue as we reached the place around 8.00am.

There’s another cave complex called Sthreepura close by but the path is almost completely blocked by the overgrowth and we couldn’t find anyone interested in showing us the path. One of the electricians we met at the cave informed that the path hasn’t been used for a very long time and very much covered by the dense forest. Apparently it’s a very large complex with a tiny opening to go deep inside.

 

Simply delicious and healthy

Simply delicious and healthy

We're here and they've built steps plus a roof all the way...

We’re here and they’ve built steps plus a roof all the way…

Up we go

Up we go

Ok, the long story cut short

Ok, the long story cut short

The Sri Pada Mountain and Kunudiya Pawwa looking like Sigiriya in the distance

The Sri Pada Mountain and Kunudiya Pawwa looking like Sigiriya in the distance

This was a mega-sized one

This was a mega-sized one

The statue is of Balangoda Ananda Maithree Thero

The statue is of Balangoda Ananda Maithree Thero

The giant Buddha Statue is inside but the door was locked unfortunately

The giant Buddha Statue is inside but the door was locked unfortunately

The pond is being fed by constant dripping of water from the rocky ledge up... This statue of a massive frog is fitting the picture

The pond is being fed by constant dripping of water from the rocky ledge up… This statue of a massive frog is fitting the picture

Up close... must be looking gorgeous in the night when the lights are on

Up close… must be looking gorgeous in the night when the lights are on

From the cave looking out

From the cave looking out

Never escape me

Never escape me

Just look at the headlamp. It fell off and we had to improvise. Guess it speaks itself for its age

Just look at the headlamp. It fell off and we had to improvise. Guess it speaks itself for its age

Batadombalena Pre-Historic Cave

Take the Kuruwita-Erathna Road for about 2-3km and take a turn to the right at Ekneligoda Walauwa. It is Guruluwana Road and you’ll find a sign-posting put up giving the distance is 5km from there. You’ll have to keep an eye out for the head of the trail which has both an Archaeological Department signage and a name board announcing “Batadamobalena Road” which is not actually a road but a footpath through rubber and tea patches about 1km in length.

We saw a roadside falls which apparently also being called “Arambe Ella”. This had very little water and our friend Wije too had visited this recently and there had been a little bit more water (Wije’s Report here). However, the documented Arambe Ella which is more than 55m in height, is located somewhere in Masimbula on Rakwana-Godakawela Road.

 

The turn off towards Batadombalena from Erathna Road near Ekneligoda Walawwa

The turn off towards Batadombalena from Erathna Road near Ekneligoda Walawwa

"Hey, Atha is here too", Tony exclaimed

“Hey, Atha is here too”, Tony exclaimed

Ok, here's the sign just passing that puppet to the left. This is at a bend so you're bound to drive past so keep an eye out for this. The path is just beyond the board itself

Ok, here’s the sign just passing that puppet to the left. This is at a bend so you’re bound to drive past so keep an eye out for this. The path is just beyond the board itself

Ok, here's the landmark

Ok, here’s the landmark

The path uphill through rubber estate, bound to have many leeches

The path uphill through rubber estate, bound to have many leeches

Nearly stepped on it

Nearly stepped on it

How many fingers does it have?

How many fingers does it have?

About 300m uphill, we got a clear view towards Kuruwita

About 300m uphill, we got a clear view towards Kuruwita

Thick over hanging trees keep this wet

Thick over hanging trees keep this wet

The path borders a rocky wall

The path borders a rocky wall

One of the many cascaded that we came across

One of the many cascaded that we came across

Beautiful, ain't it?

Beautiful, ain’t it?

A character from Hemingway's book "Old Man & the Sea"

A character from Hemingway’s book “Old Man & the Sea”

Sprinkling onto the rocks below

Sprinkling onto the rocks below

Just passed the forest patch and again into a rubber patch

Just passed the forest patch and again into a rubber patch

There it is in the distance

There it is in the distance

Tiny water line coming from the top... must be grand when it's in full flow

Tiny water line coming from the top… must be grand when it’s in full flow

Doesn't look like there'd been visitors recently

Doesn’t look like there’d been visitors recently

Almost there

Almost there

Here it is with the usual deep pit

Here it is with the usual deep pit

Cavernous cave

Cavernous cave

Nothing but empty hole

Nothing but empty hole

Hasn't been attacked by Bats as it's not in darkness

Hasn’t been attacked by Bats as it’s not in darkness

Ok, here's a ghost of one of the Pre-Historic men captured on my lens

Ok, here’s a ghost of one of the Pre-Historic men captured on my lens

Ananda Lena, where monks meditated is to the left

Ananda Lena, where monks meditated is to the left

Inside it and you can see the beds created using earth

Inside it and you can see the beds created using earth

The water kept constantly dripping from the top reminding us of Beli Lena

The water kept constantly dripping from the top reminding us of Beli Lena

Batadombalena, finally visited

Batadombalena, finally visited

Dead tree arts

Dead tree arts

You too are gorgeous

You too are gorgeous

Elle Gedara Falls

From Kuruwita, continue along the A4 towars Rathnapura passing Paradise, Kahengama and Batuhena. Just before the Amuthagoda Junction, there’s a left turn off towards Elle Gedara (Panukarapitiya-Palm Garden Road). Take this road for 2-2.5km and you’ll come to what we call a “Sapaththu Palama” and the waterfall is just to the right.

Just remember, to see the real falls you have to go about 50m uphill along the waterway. What you see from the road is just the Lower Elle Gedara Falls.

 

The board says you're not supposed to do these but most of them do just that. Maybe they can't figure out these are "Don'ts" not "Dos"

The board says you’re not supposed to do these but most of them do just that. Maybe they can’t figure out these are “Don’ts” not “Dos”

The shoe bridge I mentioned

The shoe bridge I mentioned

Just getting to the lower falls

Just getting to the lower falls

Here she is to the left

Here she is to the left

Up close

Up close

From the top looking down

From the top looking down

Very nice

Very nice

This is in the middle and we had to walk uphill to see the real falls

This is in the middle and we had to walk uphill to see the real falls

Climbing wasn't an issue

Climbing wasn’t an issue

Here she is

Here she is

Very nice and the right amount of water

Very nice and the right amount of water

Closer

Closer

The base

The base

The side angle

The side angle

"Mata Mahalu Wayase - Beriya Wena Gayana Perase"

“Mata Mahalu Wayase – Beriya Wena Gayana Perase”

Curious fella

Curious fella

Dumpus Ella

From Rathnapura, take the Wewelwatte road and it’ll fork at Malwala. The left one going to Siripagama (Sri Palabaddala) while the right one towards Wewelwatte and Balangoda. Take the left towards Sri Palabaddala towards Gilimale. Passing the main bridge at Gilimale (more like an enclosed but a narrow one) head further towards Induruwa Bridge which is with no railings on either side just before the 9th-km post.

The falls is just to the left about 10-15m from the bridge. According to a bunch of village boys who were bathing, the base pool is very deep. One claimed nearly 40ft but Tony didn’t offer to go find it for himself so we’re stuck with the boy’s word.

 

The Induruwa bridge at  Dumpus Falls

The Induruwa bridge at Dumpus Falls

Wow

Wow

Gushing down

Gushing down

Extreme left corner

Extreme left corner

Managed to climb to a tiny rock to get this one

Managed to climb to a tiny rock to get this one

The top

The top

Whoaaaaaahhh

Whoaaaaaahhh

The village boys were bathing towards the lower end but they had no trouble in swimming

The village boys were bathing towards the lower end but they had no trouble in swimming

Found this fella on our way back

Found this fella on our way back

"Hi Dude!"

“Hi Dude!”

The water goes downhill

The water goes downhill

Mapalana Falls

Go right up to Sri Palabaddala along the Siripagama Road. At the junction, the left one takes you to Siripagama while the right to Mapalana Village. The road is not in very good condition for a low-clearance vehicle. Mapalana Falls is located about 2km from Sri Palabaddala with a gigantic sign directing you.

There’s a footpath through a tea patch for about 100m to reach the base of the falls.

 

The board before the turn to the left along Sri Palabaddala-Mapalana Road

The board before the turn to the left along Sri Palabaddala-Mapalana Road

She's tall

She’s tall

Wish there was more water though

Wish there was more water though

The lower most part was herself a considerably high waterfall

The lower most part was herself a considerably high waterfall

The middle like mist

The middle like mist

The top

The top

This bit is barely visible from the base but looking from distance, like the road is clearly seen

This bit is barely visible from the base but looking from distance, like the road is clearly seen

Giant Nuga Tree providing the shade

Giant Nuga Tree providing the shade

The whole of Mapalana Falls

The whole of Mapalana Falls

Towards the base

Towards the base

"Kollo meke usa" - Tony kept saying

“Kollo meke usa” – Tony kept saying

Water, crystal clear

Water, crystal clear

View from the road. Note the top most part is now very clearly visible

View from the road. Note the top most part is now very clearly visible

Haalmehi Falls

This is also located along Sri Palabaddala-Malapana Road about 800m before the Malapana Falls at a small bridge or what we call a “Bokkuwa”.

Take the footpath parallel to the river through a tea patch uphill for about 500m. It’s possible to tackle this along the river itself when it’s not raining or water levels are high. You will get straight to the falls.

I was wondering why this was called Haalmehi Falls coz it means Sprats but nobody was nearby to ask. Then Tony offered the explanation saying compared to the gigantic Mapalana Falls, this one looks very tiny and like a Sprat thus the name.

Just be careful coz not many people know about this falls or they simply don’t consider this to be a falls as they keep seen the mighty Mapalana day and night. We were lucky to find that one person who knew it by name.

 

Tony pointing at the path. Note the tiny bridge

Tony pointing at the path. Note the tiny bridge

The pool at the bridge and the path is to your left

The pool at the bridge and the path is to your left

Climbing along the river coz there wasn't much water

Climbing along the river coz there wasn’t much water

Plenty of water holes like these

Plenty of water holes like these

Not so far away from the road

Not so far away from the road

Gotta get closer to get an unobstructed view

Gotta get closer to get an unobstructed view

Here she is, well compared to her big sister, she's really like a Sprat

Here she is, well compared to her big sister, she’s really like a Sprat

Again, not a lot of water

Again, not a lot of water

Right at the top

Right at the top

Hitting the base rock

Hitting the base rock

The path we came to the base

The path we came to the base

Kadurugal Dola Falls

This is located around 26th-km post along Wewelwatte Road from Ratnapura at a large bridge. You have to go towards the left through a footpath to see this falls. This is not actually a documented one but all the same creates a nice waterfall.

Madanagiri Falls is from the same water source somewhere uphill and difficult to reach. However you can see her about 200-300m further towards Wewelwatte from the main road.

 

Last time it was nothing but water all over but not this time

Last time it was nothing but water all over but not this time

It was a steep climb around rocks to get a view of this

It was a steep climb around rocks to get a view of this

Looks like a tail

Looks like a tail

Close view

Close view

The water coming from above but not much left

The water coming from above but not much left

I had to climb all the way and Tony decided to stay safely at the bottom picturing tiny cascades. You can barely see the bridge in the distance

I had to climb all the way and Tony decided to stay safely at the bottom picturing tiny cascades. You can barely see the bridge in the distance

Kadurugal Dola on 04 Aug 2013

Just see the amount of water at that time.

 

It was fiercely gushing down

It was fiercely gushing down

It'd have been a majestic scene

It’d have been a majestic scene

Beruwatte Falls

This is about 2km from Wewelwatte towards Balangoda. You’ll see a faded sign giving the distance 2km on your way just before Wewelwatte Town. From Wewelwatte Town, the left road takes you towards Alupola Estate where the famous Alupola Ella is located and the straight road goes to Balangoda and about 1.5-2km away is the Beruwatte Falls. Along the way, you’ll get a clear view of the distant Alupola falls to the left just and you get a view of Beruwatte falls when going towards Alupola Ella.

You’ll meet a house onto your right just by the road with a kitchen built of earth (Katu Mati Gahapu Kussiyak) and just next to it is a footpath towards the falls about 400m away.

 

Here's the landmark

Here’s the landmark

There she is

There she is

Portrait

Portrait

She had the most water of the day

She had the most water of the day

The top

The top

And the bottom

And the bottom

Like all the others, base pool looks very deep

Like all the others, base pool looks very deep

There it is

There it is

Time to say good-bye

Time to say good-bye

Dehena Falls

This falls is located at Amunuthenna along the Wewelwatte Road. This is just by the road and you can’t miss it. We saw this in full flow on 04 Aug 2013. You can see the comparison looking at the pics.

 

Dehena Ella, very tall but very little water

Dehena Ella, very tall but very little water

Up close

Up close

As usual the top

As usual the top

The middle

The middle

Here's the info... 243ft in height

Here’s the info… 243ft in height

Dehena Ella on 04 Aug 2013

What a vast difference?

 

What do you think?

What do you think?

This was taken from the side as it was so hard to stay in front

This was taken from the side as it was so hard to stay in front

Hal Ella

This one is also just by the roadside before Dehena Ella when coming from Ratnapura. As I’ve mentioned before, we saw plenty of water on 04 Aug 2013 but this time there was barely any water. Water was dribbling down along the rocky surface and it really was an abysmal view.

Just remember this has two waterfalls either side. The one on the right is called Hal Ella while the one on the left has no name.

 

This is Hal Ella which is the right one of the couple. Just no water

This is Hal Ella which is the right one of the couple. Just no water

The left part but no name

The left part but no name

Pics taken on 04 Aug 2013

You can see the difference for yourself.

 

Here both the falls together

Here both the falls together

Hal Ella

Hal Ella

Other one to the left

Other one to the left

Katu Kitul Ella

This one lies just before the Hal Ella, about 50m before when coming from Ratnapura along the same Wewelwatte Road. As Hal Ella, there was hardly any water to see.

 

50m or so beyond is Katu Kitul Ella, no water

50m or so beyond is Katu Kitul Ella, no water

Katu Kitul Ella too on 04 Aug 2013

She too was no different with plenty of water then.

 

It was all about water then

It was all about water then

Aanda Falls

This is also found along Wewelwatte Road and when coming from Ratnapura around 12km later you’ll meet a huge bridge with 12/1 sign painted on it by the RDA in Meegasthenna. This is just before the Galabada Village.

There’s a footpath to the falls which is roughly 200m to the left just before the bridge. This is also visible from the road passing the bridge.

 

The path near the 12/1 painted bridge at Meegasthenna before Galabada

The path near the 12/1 painted bridge at Meegasthenna before Galabada

Here's the footpath

Here’s the footpath

I guess you call this slow shutter but I call it point-n-shoot

I guess you call this slow shutter but I call it point-n-shoot

Makeshift shower

Makeshift shower

There she is

There she is

Closer

Closer

The bottom

The bottom

Wish there was more water

Wish there was more water

Does she look like an Eel?

Does she look like an Eel?

Well folks, this is the second of my Waterfall Hunting journeys and hopefully there will be a few more for you to see.

Do check my Video Journey too below for more real-like experience.

Video Journey of Siripagama and Wewelwatte Waterfalls.

Keep tuned in (just like most of the FM channels would say).

Take care and keep travelling…

 

Scenic Hike to Wangedigala

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Year and Month February, 2012
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew Five (24-25 Years)
Accommodation Camping at Wangedigala
Transport Public Transport
Activities Scenery, Photography & HIKING!
Weather Cloudy day with raining in a on and off drizzle
Route Mawanella à Kegalla -> Kahawatta -> Balangoda -> Belihuloya -> 172nd Mile Post (Bambarakanda Junction) -> Bambarakanda -> Belihuloya -> Ratnapura -> Mawanella
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Accompany a person from that area as a tracker
  • Do not carry Plastic items, Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Better to carry necessary amount of water if you are going to camp
  • Ropes are needed to climb
  • Be prepared for leaches attack
  • Leave only Foot prints
Author Shafraz Khahir
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

After reading several posts in Lakdasun we decided to do this hike. But holidays were just passing and finally we decided to make this on a weekend. So we took the Ratnapura bus from Mawanella early morning. But when we reached Bus stand they said as it was a holiday the bus will not run. So we got into a Colombo bus and get down from Kegalla.

We were able to catch the Kegalla – Embilipitiya leaving Kegalla at 6 am. We got down from Kahawatta around 8.30 am and we took our breakfast in a hotel. Then we took a bus to Balangoda hoping to catch a Colombo – Badulla bus. We got down there and wait for the Colombo – Badulla bus and it took nearly another 1 hour to reach Belihuloya. Bus conductor knew about the Kalupahana junction so it was easy to us to get down in right place.

(I think After passing 169th mile post ) we got down exactly at the junction of Kalupahana. We took some items from a small shop situated there. Then we started to walk and nearly we have to walk more than 5 km. When we are walking only we realized that we are entering to such beautiful place. I am still wondering about the beauty of it. Our guys told that it is entrance of heaven. The view is extra ordinary and it such calm place. So we kept walking and finally reached Bambarakanda waterfall.

On our way to Bambarakanda

On our way to Bambarakanda

Misty mountains that will say to live there forever

Misty mountains that will say to live there forever

You beauty Sri Lanka !!!!!!!!!!

You beauty Sri Lanka !!!!!!!!!!

Then we walked to Mrs. Sera’s rest house “Bambarakanda Holiday Resort” and talked with her and her daughter. They explained about difference between Wangedigala and Wangedi Kanda , routes and etc. It was nearly 10.30 am when we left Mrs. Sera’s rest house. We walked down and came to place where you will get steps going right hand side. We walked through the steps and crossed the stream.

Nice roads…

Nice roads…

Bambarakanda – Highest waterfall in Sri Lanka

Bambarakanda – Highest waterfall in Sri Lanka

.

.

Walking along the water stream

Walking along the water stream

After passing the stream we had to walk along the water source nearly 600m. You will get paddy fields in your left hand side. While we continuing the walk along the water source we found some houses in our right hand side and we stopped there and started to turn right and walk. As we could see the pine forest in our RHS we kept walking until we found a starting place to climb the pine forest. We asked a boy who lived there about the route and he showed the path to us. BTW it is easy to walk through the pine plots at starting. But when time passes it became a strenuous climbing. Even though pine needles were burnt by village people the ground is slippery.

Its always ascending from start to end

Its always ascending from start to end

The ascend was nearly 60 degrees from starting and there was no place for resting. The view was so amazing while climbing. We climbed in straight line targeting the Wangedigala. We could not see it but we were following its direction. We were able to find Mana bushes in two places which seem to be little bit flat land. So we had some rests there and started climbing.

A mandatory rest – Water is the most precious gift in this world

A mandatory rest – Water is the most precious gift in this world

Believe me that you will not see an end while climbing as there was always ascending pine forest. We always hope OK this going to be the last pine plot. But when we came there another ascending is waiting for us. The more you climb you will get steeper ascending in your trail. We were wondering why still we are climbing and there was no end to the pine trees.

Don’t look down while climbing – The Golden rule in Hiking

Don’t look down while climbing – The Golden rule in Hiking

It’s always another starting in every end

It’s always another starting in every end

More to go!!!!

More to go!!!!

We always searched for the end of pine trees...

We always searched for the end of pine trees…

Mist started to cover us...still we didn’t see an end point

Mist started to cover us…still we didn’t see an end point

Around 3.30 pm we were completely covered by mist and the view was amazing. We can’t step further as the surroundings completely covered by mist. So we find a place to settle down. While 3 of us preparing the camp site (there were some burnt woods which is a sign someone already had stayed there) by collecting the woods and setting a bed for us, Suresh and myself climbed further to see whether we are closed to top. So we took our RHS path and walked upwards through edge of the mountain. As the mist was covering always and blocking the view we carefully stepped and climbed to the top. The view from here was amazing and indescribable. But we found that it is so windy and not a good idea to bring the crew here at that moment. We came to our crew back and settled with them.

A nice place to play around

A nice place to play around

Believe me this is taken at 3 pm

Believe me this is taken at 3 pm

Suddenly mist vanished and we came to normal

Suddenly mist vanished and we came to normal

The night was so long and cold but we set a camp fire so that we spent the time with our memories. There was no flat land here to set up your tent. But there were some rocks and you can set your tent/bed adjoining it. Remember to take necessary preventive methods so that you will not roll down while sleeping.

The next day we started to climb around 6.15 am. The last part was quickly done. But there is a place where you had to climb on a rock. Even though it is just nearly 3 or 4 meter you have to climb carefully. If you missed a step here you will end up fall a drop of nearly 150m.

He went on searching alternative route to avoid the rock climbing

He went on searching alternative route to avoid the rock climbing

The path we came – taken from the rock

The path we came – taken from the rock

We were able to climb the top and came to Wangedigala around 6.45 am. The view such an amazing here. We were standing above clouds !!!. Udaweriya division , Devil Staircase, Bambarakanda and Lanka ella waterfalls were seen in our RHS. Samanala wewa could be seen in our LHS. A4 road was clearly seen from top of the mountain. What I can say about the view in just one word; “It is extra ordinary”

Udaweriya Devision

Udaweriya Devision

Even clouds are below us!!!!

Even clouds are below us!!!!

Bambarakanda waterfall….

Bambarakanda waterfall….

Helping Bambarakanda

Helping Bambarakanda

Udawalawa – far away

Udawalawa – far away

Walking towards Wangedigala Kanda..

Walking towards Wangedigala Kanda..

Lanka Ella (LHS) and Bambarakanda (RHS) waterfalls

Lanka Ella (LHS) and Bambarakanda (RHS) waterfalls

Then we walked towards Wangedi Kanda and we were able to see land marks placed by survey department. We quickly returned back to our way from Wangedi Kanda. Now we decided not climb down through the way we came because of continues ascending. So we turn left in our way and find that there is an easy way to get into the tea estate if we passed the jungle.

.

.

It’s just 6.45 am in the morning...

It’s just 6.45 am in the morning…

Let’s move there !!!

Let’s move there !!!

So we climbed down through those mana bushes and entered into the jungle. It was not that much easy to say that walking through the small thorny bushes but we managed. Finally we came to a place where it was abandoned rubber estate. There were steps build around using small rocks which says that it was an old rubber plantation area. There were old rubber trees here and there and the ground was filled with some thorny bushes and some other plants. Climbing down through this was easy. At last point of the rubber estate we came to a small jungle and this was a hectic journey. We were able to see some white colored leaches in this jungle. We could not take photographs of them as we were climbing down so fast. The jungle was so dark in the morning hours even. But after 1.5 hours of tiresome journey we came to estate road and then we took a rest. We walked on graved road and came to a place where a water stream is running. There was bridge at that place. So we refreshed here and walked towards Main road. Finally we came to main road via the entrance of the Nonperial estate (Brampton Division).

When we were walking towards to Surathalee ella we met Mrs. Sera. Her bike’s broken down and one of our guys fixed it for the moment. Then we had a Pol Rotti with very spicy katta Smabola and Plain tea from a nearby hotel. Then we were able to catch the Badulla – Colombo bus and get down at Ratnapura. We had our lunch in Ratnapura town and we took Kandy bus. We reached Mawanella around 6.00 pm.

 

Hypnotized by the Tumbling Down Pearls – Tour de Waterfalls 3…

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Year and Month 14 May, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew 2 (Tony and Me)
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Bike
Activities Photography, Waterfall Hunting, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Maharagama->Dehiowita->Kahanawita->Nakkavita->Panakura->Back to Deraniyagala Road->Deraniyagala->Keerihena->Anhettigama->Basnagala->Noori->Gorakahena->Pallabage and back on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Do check my previous Waterfall Hunting reports here. Tour de Waterfalls 1 & Tour de Waterfalls 2…
  • Try to go during or just after the rains to see them in the best possible way.
  • Like many others, most of the waterfalls in this area too are under threat from Mini Hydro Plants. So go and see them as soon as possible before they’re completely gone.
  • The Noori Road, especially in and around Deraniyagala is under construction and can be very difficult to drive in a car.
  • For many of the people, they are not waterfalls but just waterways. So keep checking and make sure to ask the directions either from young fellows or older people. Young ones will know all the waterfalls but not the names and the older folks know the names.
  • Draw a sketch plan according to the route and try to cover them in an orderly manner so that it’ll help you see as many waterfalls as possible within a very short time.
  • Do take water for drinking as many of these waterways are not safe to drink straight from due to various activities.
  • I’ve tried my best to be as accurately as possible with the directions and the distances. So bear with me for any miscalculations as they all were done in my mind with no sophisticated gadgets.
  • Do help save the Nature by doing whatever you can. Bring back only the pics and the memories.

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

After two very successful Waterfall Hunts, I decided to do a 3rd on 14 May (Vesak Full Moon Poya Day) immediately after the 2nd on 13 May. Vesak Poya brought back some very sweet memories of our Bathalegala Hike first-ever as a team.

Fortunately Tony too was on leave and after a exhausting but exhilarating journey around Kuruwita, Siripagama and Wewelwatte we decided to shift our focus to yet another waterfall mine, Deraniyagala. The foundation was laid thanks yet again to Ashan when he did a marathon of waterfall hunting a few months back which resulted in his record 100th post.

Taking it as the basis, I worked around the map figuring out how to utilize our time to the maximum and finally got a somewhat feasible plan. As it was the Vesak Full Moon Poya Day, we wanted to get back soon due to the heavy traffic in the evening. Having left our homes around 5.30am we reached Hanwella where we had tasty Kola Kenda (not as tasty as from Suwa Rasa Hala at Pussalla) and passing Avissawella Tony shouted “Dansala” and all of a sudden turned the bike to the left and stopped.

It really was a Dansala which gives rice and curry for the breakfast. Koss, Tempered Onions and Mango curry were a blessing in hiding in the morning. Already a huge crowd was milling about and we too joined the mayhem and Tony without a second invitation piled his plate so just like a Chinese Pagoda and I had difficulty in looking at his face. I think only our country has this unique tradition of giving away food for free just like this. So we’re carrying the good deeds started by our ancestors thousands of years ago. (Many old folks keep saying “Api Owa Kale Suddha Weddha Kale” which I believe is very true).

After a hearty meal we carried on towards Dehiowita and turned to Deraniyagala Road.

Tour Highlights:

1. Kahanawita Falls, Kahanawita

2. Kalu Wala Falls, Deraniyagala

3. Nakkavita Suspension Bridge

4. Deraniyagala Kekuna Ella, Panakura

5. Oruthotupola Ella, Panakura

6. Gonalu Ella, aka Kaali Ella, Panakura

7. Watawala Ella, Keerihena

8. Minuwan Ella aka Dodawatta Ella, Anhettigama

9. Budumaloka Ella, Gorakahena

10. Mineemaru Ella, Pallabage

11. Unknown Falls, 4th Post (Digala)

 

Kahanwita Falls

Our first stop was Kahanawita about 3.5km from Dehiowita turn off along Deraniyagala Road. This is just passing the Kahanawita School. You’ll see a tea factory to your right with a bend just passing the school. About 100-200m up there’s another bend to the left with an iron railing along the right shoulder of the road. You can get down to the falls from there through the rubber patch. It’s only 10-15m from the road and can be heard from the road. This is such an amazing sight to anyone. She was not only the first but the best of all we saw that day.

After visiting the falls, we continued further towards Deraniyagala until out of nowhere we came across another Manioc Dansala. There weren’t many people and after a feast to our eyes we felt like some feast to our tummies too and this came as a blessing. They served Manioc on Kottamba Leaves with a very tasty and mouth-watering Sambol. Tony searched and searched for the biggest of them. After bidding them farewell we headed towards Deraniyagala where Kalu Wala awaited our arrival with so much anticipation.

 

The footpath begins here.. Note the bend and the railing

The footpath begins here.. Note the bend and the railing

What a sexy girl this is

What a sexy girl this is

Closer

Closer

The bottom

The bottom

The top is carved by constant hitting of the water

The top is carved by constant hitting of the water

Milky white

Milky white

Deep looking

Deep looking

Going downhill

Going downhill

The top of the left hand side falls

The top of the left hand side falls

Can't resist taking pics again and again

Can’t resist taking pics again and again

Wow

Wow

Must go up and see from the top

Must go up and see from the top

These will be tricky when raining

These will be tricky when raining

Getting near

Getting near

Some more

Some more

Here and can't go any further

Here and can’t go any further

From here it plunges down

From here it plunges down

Rocky wells

Rocky wells

Pouring right into the well

Pouring right into the well

Could've spent the whole day

Could’ve spent the whole day

Kalu Wala Falls

To reach Kalu Wala, go to Deraniyagala Town, passing the Police Station you’ll come to a road to the left with a notice “Siri Saman Vidyalaya” (the road in fact is Vidyala Mawatha). Take this for about 1km till you get to a folk with a foundation stone. There’re 3 paths, one to the extreme left (concreted as far as I can remember which leads to a house), the middle one just a gravel road while the right hand one is concreted and going downhill. The foundation stone is kinda in the middle of gravel and the downhill concrete path.

Take the downhill concrete road and you’ll come to a bridge and passing that it’ll folk into two. The right hand path is concreted and will take you to the house of the owner of Bopekanda Mini Hydro Plant while the left unpaved path will take you to Bopekanda Hydro Power Plant and behind that Kalu Wala. About 100m from here you can see the power plant and behind that is Kalu Wala.

We met one of the workers of the power plant and when asked he said there’s no waterfall just the large pond called Kalu Wala. After pestering again and again, he finally conceded that there was a waterfall (note the usage of past tense) but now it’s been diverted to feed the power plant. I felt #*@&~#@%&*+.

 

They got the shock of their life when Tony kept asking for more and more

They got the shock of their life when Tony kept asking for more and more

Mouth-watering

Mouth-watering

You can see the power plant

You can see the power plant

Had to go through the gate

Had to go through the gate

There's the dried out falls

There’s the dried out falls

Now nothing more than a trickle

Now nothing more than a trickle

This looks very nice to bathe

This looks very nice to bathe

Hariya would've jumped right in

Hariya would’ve jumped right in

Now the waterfall is created by the disgorging water from the plant

Now the waterfall is created by the disgorging water from the plant

Schools of fish

Schools of fish

Some more

Some more

Time to say good bye

Time to say good bye

Beautiful

Beautiful

Look at them, so scary and they have prickly stings

Look at them, so scary and they have prickly stings

Nakkavita Suspension Bridge

The roads in Deraniyagala are being repaired and the condition is terrible. It’d be a nightmarish experience when raining. Having reached the Deraniyagala town where the road splits into two. One going straight and the other turns to left. The straight one goes towards Meegahawita so you gotta turn left and head further along Noori Road.

You’ll get to the Nakkavita Suspension Bridge to your right just by the roadside, about 500m before you come to the Maliboda turnoff. This is one of the few of these kinds remaining in SL. The length is about 100m and hung across Sithawaka Ganga.

 

Famous suspension bridge

Famous suspension bridge

Side view

Side view

Carrying the weight

Carrying the weight

What a masterpiece

What a masterpiece

There's another cancer to the left

There’s another cancer to the left

The river is nothing as the water is being robbed daylight

The river is nothing as the water is being robbed daylight

See the comparison of water levels?

See the comparison of water levels?

Scary, ain't it?

Scary, ain’t it?

Main structure

Main structure

Time to go

Time to go

Deraniyagala Kekuna Ella

After a lot of trouble we managed to find this place thanks to Thilake Mama (P. G. Thilakarathna aka Panakure Thilake) who we happened to come across after numerous attempts had yielded nothing of value to find this falls. He was the only person who knew the name Kekuna Ella and we asked about 10 people about the falls before meeting hm. I won’t go into all that but will give you the directions straight.

Passing the Nakkavita Suspension Bridge and the Maliboda Turn off for about 500m, take the right turn near a shop. You’ll find a bridge and the road will fork into two. Take the right one and go for about 1-1.5km till you reach the Oruthotupola Road. This is to the right with a few houses located just below the main road. The path is concreted for about 20-30m and from then gravel.

This road runs through mainly an open area and about 100-150m to the right downhill is the Magal River (Sithawaka River) which creates Deraniyagala Kekuna Ella, Oruthotupola Ella and Gonalu Ella also known as Kaali Ella.

About 500-600m through the open road will lead you to forest patch with a razor-wired fence to the right. The temple is just above the road to the left. At the end of the wire fence there’s a footpath through the forest towards the river about 50m and having reached the river go down another 20-30m and you’ll be on top of Kekuna Falls. It’d be difficult to do this when it rains heavily though.

 

Panakura Road and to the right is the Oruthotupola path

Panakura Road and to the right is the Oruthotupola path

Just got to the river

Just got to the river

Tiny cascades all around

Tiny cascades all around

There she is... the left most part

There she is… the left most part

Can you make out the pearls?

Can you make out the pearls?

When in full flow, it would be grand

When in full flow, it would be grand

They were a common sight

They were a common sight

Trying to get a full frame

Trying to get a full frame

Singled out

Singled out

Water right down from the Sri Pada

Water right down from the Sri Pada

There's another part to the right

There’s another part to the right

Here she is, has more water than the left one

Here she is, has more water than the left one

Closer

Closer

Easy to get by thanks to less water

Easy to get by thanks to less water

Oruthotupola Ella

This is also in the same Magal River about 400m upstream from Kekuna Ella. You could get back to the turn off to the footpath and continue along the road till you get to a tiny bridge over a water stream to the right and along this path will take you straight to the Oruthotupola (where the boat is parked) and about 50-60m downstream is the falls.

Unfortunately, there was very little water at the time and we had to cross the river which was somewhat difficult. So we decided to call it quits and took a couple of pics zoomed in all the way. According to Thilake mama the pool is one of the largest in Sithawaka River. I guess in diameter it must be about 100m and looks very deep too. We saw signs of illegal sand mining and Thilake mama said the STF comes on and off for raids.

 

One of the huge pools in Sithawaka River

One of the huge pools in Sithawaka River

Here’s the Oruwa

Here’s the Oruwa

Oruthotupola Ella is in the distance covered by rocks

Oruthotupola Ella is in the distance covered by rocks

Trying to zoom in

Trying to zoom in

The max, can barely see hidden behind the rocks

The max, can barely see hidden behind the rocks

Kaali Ella aka Gonalu Ella

This one is about 200m downstream from Kekuna Ella. When you turned off to Oruthotupola road from the Panakura main road, about 30m along (where the concrete paved bit ends) you have to go downhill towards the Magal River to see this falls. The path is not difficult and runs through a tea estate.

She was somewhat similar to Kekuna Ella and looked gorgeous. We bid our farewell to Thilake mama who spent nearly an hour showing us these hidden beauties. It was such a miracle we came across him. There were signs of rains but he kept saying “Saman Deiyange Pihiten Wahina Ekak Ne” and they did pass without troubling us too much. It really is the land of God Saman and he protects those who do no harm to the nature.

 

Same Oruthotupola Road, but where the concrete patch ends... go downhill to the right till the river

Same Oruthotupola Road, but where the concrete patch ends… go downhill to the right till the river

Downhill path looks like this. Note the hut in the middle

Downhill path looks like this. Note the hut in the middle

Partial view

Partial view

Very slippery

Very slippery

The bottom

The bottom

From the top

From the top

There she is

There she is

Closer

Closer

Two old guys, Tony and Thilake mama

Two old guys, Tony and Thilake mama

The full frame

The full frame

This pool too is very big

This pool too is very big

Watawala Ella

We got back to Panakura turnoff and headed further along Noori Road till we came to the junction where the road splits into two again after a bridge (it’s about 2km from the Panakura turn off to this). The direct path goes towards Polgaswatte (another waterfall mine but now destroyed by those power plants) and the left is the continuation of Noori Road. Take the left and about 500m you get a left turn off towards Keerihena Purana Viharaya.

Along this road 200-300m later you come to a bridge where the Watawala Oya is. Parallel to the Oya take the left bank path upstream for about 100-150m and you’re there at the Watawala Falls.

 

The left road is the one to take

The left road is the one to take

The sign

The sign

When you walk along the path parallel to the river you get to this place first

When you walk along the path parallel to the river you get to this place first

But continue a bit more to get closer

But continue a bit more to get closer

The view from the first place

The view from the first place

When you get closer like this

When you get closer like this

Not much water

Not much water

Extreme right

Extreme right

Down river

Down river

Slides down

Slides down

Rocky pools like these were everywhere

Rocky pools like these were everywhere

Took from every angle

Took from every angle

Goes towards the bridge

Goes towards the bridge

Minuwan Ella

Come back to the Keerihena turnoff and continue along the Noori Road towards Basnagala. About 1km from the turnoff you’ll see a road to the left with the name displayed, “Mudagalla Road” with a shop to the right. Just behind this shop you’ll see the Hathdinnath Falls about 600-800m away in the opposite mountain. Unfortunately it was nearly completely dried up and we saw only the rocky surface where the water falls. It looked like a seasonal fall and most of the human activities have led to drying up many springs in the jungle now killing many falls like these.

However, to see Minuwan Falls, you could use the Polgawatte Road (at the turn off before Keerihena) or there’s a short cut from Noori Road. About 400m before Mudagalla Road, there’s a road to the right with a bus stop. Go downhill till you come to a main road which is the Polgaswatte Road. As soon as you meet this, there’s another turn to the right (when you coming downhill it’s kinda straight) that goes to a house. There’s a footpath through this house downhill up to the river (about 30m). When you get to the river, don’t cross (repeat don’t cross the river) just turn right along a very narrow and barely visible footpath and take it parallel to the river till you meet the bund that’s built across the river to feed the Minuwan Ella Power Plant which is roughly 150-200m away.

Get down to the other side of the bund and continue along the river bed (coz they’ve diverted the whole river to the power plant and it has to rain so hard to see any water in the falls) another 200-300m till you get to a drop where the Minuwan Falls used to be. Now it’s nothing but a trickle down the rocky slope. You can see the Power Plant below which I felt like blasting to kingdom come. Even Tony was furious and kept blaming those who approve of these projects all the way back.

Just so you know you can get to the base of the falls using the path to the power plant but the road is barred and there’s a gate about 1-1.5km before. So you might need permission to do that but always possible on foot via a tiny gap between the gate post and the fence.

 

Here's the Polgaswatte Road you meet coming down through the shortcut. Note the right hand bend to a house

Here’s the Polgaswatte Road you meet coming down through the shortcut. Note the right hand bend to a house

When you turn, you get to this place. Go downhill to the left of the mud hut

When you turn, you get to this place. Go downhill to the left of the mud hut

The downhill view, when you reach the bottom, turn right along the footpath parallel to the river

The downhill view, when you reach the bottom, turn right along the footpath parallel to the river

The river is practicllay stalled due to the bund

The river is practicllay stalled due to the bund

Here's the bund up close and the diversion of water

Here’s the bund up close and the diversion of water

Tony looking angry at it

Tony looking angry at it

You see the whole river is turned mercilessly killing that beautiful waterfall

You see the whole river is turned mercilessly killing that beautiful waterfall

No water but bits that seep through the wall

No water but bits that seep through the wall

Tiny rock pools were all there was to see

Tiny rock pools were all there was to see

I was desperately taking pics of these as there was no sign of a fall

I was desperately taking pics of these as there was no sign of a fall

Dried up river bed. At the edge is where Minuwan Ella used to fall majestically

Dried up river bed. At the edge is where Minuwan Ella used to fall majestically

More pools

More pools

At the edge of the falls, but nothing falling down

At the edge of the falls, but nothing falling down

Here's what little water sliding down

Here’s what little water sliding down

Gigantic tunnels robbing water in daylight

Gigantic tunnels robbing water in daylight

Power plant downhill

Power plant downhill

Budumaloka Ella

Get back to the Noori Road and continue towards Basnagala. From the Minuwan Ella turn off, the Basnagala School is about 1km away and go straight for another 500-600m till it gets you to a junction with a nicely carpeted road to the left and a ground to the right while the Noori Estate road goes straight.

Oh yeah, you guessed right. You gotta take the left hand carpet road which is the Basnagala-Pallabage Road, say 1-1.5km till you reach Gorakahena. There’s a somewhat large shop to the right and just passing it you come to a bridge. Stop right there coz there’s a path to the waterfall to the left that goes past a lamp post (could even be a telephone post). This is a very short walk coz the falls itself if about 50m from the bridge.

Becareful as the falls resembles Gal Oruwa Ella and getting down to the base would be tricky. However it should be possible along the right shoulder of the river bank.

 

You can see the bridge beyond Tony, and you gotta turn to where Tony's showing

You can see the bridge beyond Tony, and you gotta turn to where Tony’s showing

Reminds me of Gal Oruwa Falls

Reminds me of Gal Oruwa Falls

Slow shutter of the Budumakola falls

Slow shutter of the Budumakola falls

Difficult to get a full view

Difficult to get a full view

Finally

Finally

Looks frighteningly deep

Looks frighteningly deep

Downhill

Downhill

Tony, I don't know what he's pointing at

Tony, I don’t know what he’s pointing at

View from the top

View from the top

Mineemaru Falls aka Dodawatta Falls

Continue along the Pallabage Road, say another 800m and you’ll see a shop to the left (Amal’s Shop if I’m not mistaken) and just passing that the road bend sharply to the left. With the bend there’s a concrete paved path to the right. Don’t get fooled as the concrete is laid only about 20-30m till the first house of the road. From there onwards it’s terrible and walking or motor cycling is the way to do it. Even on a motor bike, you’ll feel like a cross country race.

Continue this road and you’ll get to the end of it with a house to the right (more like straight) and the road bend 90-degress to the left. Take that and there’s gradual climb for another 100m or so till you get to the top of the tea estate with a hut among the tea bushes to the left. Stop right there and continue on foot downhill thorough the tea bushes till you come to the river downhill and about 10-15m upstream is the Mineemaru Falls.

Another 1km or so along Pallabage Road, we heard there’s another fall called Bisopeni Ella but she too has become a victim of the Hydro Power Plant Cancer. Would’ve loved to go see her all the same but the uncle who told us about her said it’s about 2km walk to the falls through the forest and we simply had no time.

 

Here's the turning point to the right

Here’s the turning point to the right

You get to this place, note the house to the right and take a sharp left turn

You get to this place, note the house to the right and take a sharp left turn

You end up here. Note the hut in the left

You end up here. Note the hut in the left

Got down to the river and walked uphill about 50m

Got down to the river and walked uphill about 50m

Good pools to have a wash

Good pools to have a wash

Here's the full waterfall, must be gorgeous when in full flow

Here’s the full waterfall, must be gorgeous when in full flow

The bottom

The bottom

Breakaway point to the left

Breakaway point to the left

Portrait

Portrait

Centre mass

Centre mass

Up close

Up close

From the side and getting back

From the side and getting back

Hidden bird's nest but saw no one home

Hidden bird’s nest but saw no one home

Grand

Grand

Unknown Falls

While returning back along Noori Road we stopped by a Belimal Dansala given at Deraniyagala Town. Was very tasty and revitalizing after an energy zapping journey. Further along Tony stopped yet again and this time it was Fried Rice Dansala. To be frank, it was the first and probably the last time I ate Fried Rice that weren’t soaked in oil. Usually you have that oily filament on your palm and you gotta use soap to wash it away but not this time. They served it with Papadam, Salad, Dhal and Seeni Sambola and I guess I don’t have to say anything further how Tony ate.

After a tasty meal, we started our journey back only to be stopped about 6km from Dehiowita near a bridge where this unnamed falls was falling. She reminded me of Aanda Ella that we saw the day before. I got down and took some pics and when asked what they call the area they said it’s 4th Post (4 Kanuwa). So I decided to name it 4th Post Ella which is the strangest name I’ve ever used.

Do take a look at the video journey too.

 

When you pass the 5th KM post and this bridge is just before the 6th and the fall is to the right before the bridge

When you pass the 5th KM post and this bridge is just before the 6th and the fall is to the right before the bridge

Mini version of Aanda falls

Mini version of Aanda falls

Very little water but it was more than enough for us

Very little water but it was more than enough for us

Hitting the floor

Hitting the floor

Tiny waterway further into the forest

Tiny waterway further into the forest

I think this too also slow shutter

I think this too also slow shutter

Video Journey of Deraniyagala Waterfalls…

Well, folks that’s the end of the 3rd leg of my Tour de Waterfalls and hopefully there’ll be a few more. I hope you enjoyed reading this and the directions are clear enough should you ever wanna do them.

I too enjoyed getting this across to you and as I always say, take care and keep travelling.

 

Bambaragala Pathana, Namunukula & Attractions around Ella

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Year and Month May, 2014 (14th to 17th)
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew 9 ( 5 kids & 4 adults )
Accommodation
Transport Car & SUV
Activities Family trip –sightseeing & hiking
Weather Excellent weather – sunny and bright
Route Home -> Kottawa -> Expressway -> Gelanigamaexit -> Kiriella -> Ratnapura -> Wevelwatta -> Balanagoda -> Bandarawela -> Ella -> Namunukula
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Leave as early as possible
  • Reach Namunukula before dusk as thick mist is very common in the evenings
  • Be very mindful when you take the footpath going right around Bambaragala Pathana – if possible do it in the morning to avoid mist.
  • The hike to Little Adams Peak, Ella has been made easier as three-wheelers take you up to the end of estate road, where a wooden gate blocks the road.
  • Special thanks to Lakdasun article “Inappropriately named ‘Little Adams Peak’ – Ella
Author Nayani
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

The five-day holiday following Vesak Poya was a long awaited event in the calendar and we planned to venture into an area that we have never explored – Namunukula and Ella. Ella of course we have passed many times en route from Wellawaya, but Namunukula was a totally new destination.

We left home around 4.30am; took the Expressway up to Gelanigama Exit and proceed along the winding Panadura-Ratnapura Road. It being the Vesak Poya there was an early morning Kiribath Dansala on the way. We reached Ratnapura around 7.30 am having stopped at a few places for breakfast and tea.

We decided to take Malwala-Wevelwattha-Rassagala route to reach Balangoda as we hoped the Wevelwattha waterfalls would be at their best after the recent rains. Though the road condition is not so great and the route is longer, the bonus is the number of waterfalls you pass along this road. We stopped at the first major fall “Dehena Ella” (75m), having travelled almost 25 kms and passing a number of mini cascades including the twin “Hal Falls”. But Dehena Ella did not impress us as much as we hoped. May be Ratnapura did not receive much rain as we in Colombo did over the past few days. Yet it was lovely as ever and the kids had a grand time trying to catch fish in the shallow pools at the base.

Dehena Kanda Ella

Dehena Kanda Ella

Alupotha Ella

Alupotha Ella

Though Pandi Oya Ella is just 2 kms away from Dehena Kanda it is not visible from the main road and one has to turn back to get a glimpse of it. Then we did the de-tour to see Alupotha Ella(60m) about 5 km away and on the way the Beruwatha Falls was clearly visible at a distance.

The next attraction was Beruwatha Ella(50m), about 4 kms away, and for that you have to take a short walk away from the road. It had more water than both Dehena and Alupotha falls. From there it is nearly 20 kms to Balangoda and it is a very scenic drive passing Rassagala. We passed a few more cascades along the road and one was more prominent – I guess it is Wewel Ella – which we saw at a distance.

Beruwatha Ella

Beruwatha Ella

Wewal Ella??

Wewal Ella??

Finally we reached A4 at Balangoda around 10am, having spent almost 3 hours chasing the waterfalls. At Halpe there was a manihot & Kochci sambol dansala where they served even plain tea with hakuru. We all sat in the dansala and enjoyed the feast in kenda kole and then proceeded non-stop passing Bandarawela, Kumbalwella and took the turn-off to Ella. We reached Ella around 12.30 and from the junction took the road leading to Passara. Its 28kms from Ella to Passara and you reach Namunukula after 14kms along that scenic road.

Entrance to the Bungalow

Entrance to the Bungalow

Buildings Department Circuit bungalow is just one km away from Namunukula town, on the main road to Passara itself. Undoubtedly it is at the best view point in the area overlooking the valley towards Buttala. It had been put up during President Premadasa’s time and he had frequented the place to supervise the work during Buttala Gam Udava period. It has four rooms in all (one reserved) with a large dining area, a pantry and workers’ quarters. A hexagon shaped large room with a panoramic view with fixed glass around and a fire place is being used as the sitting room. But I should say the bungalow has certainly seen better days. The interior of the bungalow is well maintained but outside is deteriorated and the garden neglected. There are cement benches right around the garden inviting anyone who wishes to enjoy the scenery of the never-ending rolling mountains.

Sitting Room with a grand view

Sitting Room with a grand view

Side view

Side view

Another family who joined us at Namunukula and altogether there were 10 kids ( five girls and five boys ) in the age range of 5-13 in our group. The bungalow keeper, Ranabahu, warmly welcomed us. We were not tired even after the long journey as dansalas along the way refreshed us. There was even a watermelon dansala passing Bandarawela – may be unique to the area. Ranabahu suggested that we visit “Bambaragala Pathana” before lunch as it might rain in the evening. The name was familiar to me as I have read about it in Lakdasun and knew it was just 1km away from town and it was anyway in my “to do” list. So we readily agreed as none of us was hungry.

Ranabahu led the way in his bike and we followed. We took the right turn from “Club Junction” (just 500m passing the bungalow) and as you pass the junction you come across a temple at another “Y” junction and you have to take the road going downhill. You can see the “WeveKele Grama Niladhari” sign board on the wall of a nearby boutique. We drove along the narrow bumpy road for about 2-3 kms until we reached the forest patch. A four-wheel drive or a vehicle with a high ground clearance can tackle this road. If not, there are three-wheelers at “Club Junction” that will take you there.

“Wewekele” signboard at the turn off

“Wewekele” signboard at the turn off

As predicted, to our dismay it started raining while we were half-way through but soon the sky cleared and the sun was shining brightly. We reached the forest patch after about ½ hour’s drive and parked our vehicles near the barbed-wire fence and walked along the washed away path to the “Bambaragala Pathana” and must say that we were amazed with what we saw.

Entrance to the forest patch – note barbed wire fence

Entrance to the forest patch – note barbed wire fence

First sight of Pathana – a huge playground

First sight of Pathana – a huge playground

Standing in neat rows……

Standing in neat rows……

 

After we passed the forest patch we came to a large clearing of the size of a huge playground – ideal to play cricket. From what I gathered, Bambaragala Pathana is related to Rama-Ravana legend and is said that a fire ball from the battle landed here and destroyed all vegetation. Nothing grows here other than the recently planted trees the villages call “gas kadju”. It is not a natural vegetation and is clear that they have been planted – the trees stand neatly in rows at equal distances.

The players

The players

It is a relaxing walk uphill under the shady trees to the view point where you get a bird’s eye view of the surroundings. There is also a badly washed off wider path that can be tackled by a serious for-wheel drive leading to this point.

Washed off wider path

Washed off wider path

You do not get a 360’ view from the view point, but you get a 270’ view and its breathtaking. I was told that one can see lights of Mattala run-way from this point in a clear night. (How often it is lit is a different matter!)

The never-ending rolling hills from the view point

The never-ending rolling hills from the view point

The never-ending rolling hills from the view point

The never-ending rolling hills from the view point

What I like best about this palce is its not limited to one view point but there is a circular path going right around the hill and as you walk along the edge of the hill your view changes dramatically – you can see Namunukula area, Buttala area, Monaragala, Wellawaya, Wewekele , Bibilegama ect. depending on where you are.

The path going right around the hill

The path going right around the hill

The path going right around the hill

The path going right around the hill

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

The changing view …..

Paddy fields of historic village Bibilegama

Paddy fields of historic village Bibilegama

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At one place on top there was part of a stone wall and there were two tombstones as well – all indicating human habitation not so long ago.

The stone wall on top

The stone wall on top

A tombstone on top

A tombstone on top

We were shown the place where it is said that artillery guns were erected aimed at the Bibilegama village to defend any attacks coming from the ancient Sinhala village.

hill top where artilleries were fixed long ago

hill top where artilleries were fixed long ago

We also came across a tiny water stream on top. May be the beginning of a major water way.

water stream on top

water stream on top

Bibilegama at a distance

Bibilegama at a distance

We could see one of the oldest tea factoties – Wewekele Factory- at a distance, but sadly it is no moe in operaton and all machinary have been removed.

We could see one of the oldest tea factories – Wewekele Factory- at a distance, but sadly it is no moe in operation and all machinery have been removed.

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We could not get enough of this lovely place, but we had to leave as we haven’t had our lunch yet and the sky was threatening again. So finally we left around 3pm promising to come back the next morning to explore further and to let the kids play in this heaven on earth.

We had a hearty lunch (brought from home) and had a relaxing evening and as preditcted it was pouring outside with thunder and lightening. We were really glad that we made it to the pathana before lunch.

It seized raining around six and the view from the bungalow was breathtaking. We spent hours in the garden till dusk fell and the lights of Pelawatta Suger facotry was clearly visible at a distance. No one felt like going indors as the Vesak moon came up and lit the mountains. It was a serene sight.

The kids had a grand time in the sitting area singing and playing cards in the warmth of the fire place. After a scrumptious dinner we all went to bed with blissfull memories of the long day.

Day 2:

The next morning sun came up brightly and there was no sign of rain at all. The Morning view from the bungalow was stunning. We enjoyed a stroll in the garden enjoying the morning breeze. Initially we had planned to visit Badulla – only 30kms away – to cover Dunhinda and Bogoda Bridge. But Bambaragal Pathana changed our plans. We decided to have a relaxing morning there and let the kids play around that heaven on earth. The day was clear and bright and after a filling breakfast of kiribath we left for the pathana again.

View from the bungalow

View from the bungalow

Pathana turned into a playground

Pathana turned into a playground

“Breaking of tins” in progress

“Breaking of tins” in progress

We started with “Tin Kadanna”. Actually we wanted to teach the kids our favourite game of yesteryears, which was totally new to them and they too enjoyed it. It ended with a game of Cricket while some relaxed under the shade and I took the foot path going right around the mountain enjoying the view once again.

After hours of play we bid good bye to the Pathana and drove back passing the town in search of a “ice paella” for a refreshing bath. There were two peellas by the roadside and the fathers and sons had a bath while moms and daughters came back to the bungalow.

After lunch the third party that joined us at Namunulula left for Colombo and the rest of us decided to go towards Passara just for a scenic drive as it was too late to see the mini worlds’ End. From the Bungalow it is 14kms to the 10th Mile Post Junction where Passara-Namunukula Raod meets Badulla-Monaragala main road. From there it is 16kms to Badulla and only 3kms to Passara. It was a very scenic road along the tea estates and we passed many mini cascades as well. We also passed the newly built “Puhulwaththa Reservoir” on our way.

Puhulwatta Reservoir

Puhulwatta Reservoir

Passing Passara we took the turn towards Madolsima and drove along the scenic road enjoying the evening view. We could clearly see the Namunukula range from that road.

View from Madolsima Road

View from Madolsima Road

We did not drive far as it was getting and were back in the bungalow by 7pm once again to witness the moon lighting up the mountains.

Day 3:

After a hearty breakfast of rotti we thanked the bungalow keeper and the cook and left for Ella promising ourselves another visit to that wonderful place.

Good bye Namunukula!

Good bye Namunukula!

On our way back we stopped at Ballaketuwa and viewed the Bambaragala Falls (Ravana Ella) at a distance. You can see the top of the falls from that view point. Our plan was to visit the Nine Arch Bridge and Demodara Loop in the morning.

We reached Ella Station around 9.30 and inquired the train time table. The Station Master was very helpful and suggested that we hike up to Demodara and catch the 11.45 train from there for the return journey. Some were eager to do the 7km train hike and some were not. So we decided to do the 2.5km up to the Nine Arch Bridge and return. We were told to hurry up as we could see Udarata Menike from Baddulla on the bridge around 10.45. We hurried along the train track in the morning sun to catch her on the bridge.

We had to hurry the last lap as we could hear the train at a distance. We managed to cross the tunnel in time and wait for “Menike” to cross this marvelous bridge. It was a grant sight to see her gracefully coming along the bridge. Though I have crossed this bridge a number of times it was my first time watching a train crossing it from a distance.

On the train track

On the train track

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Caught her on the bridge

Caught her on the bridge

Great architecture

Great architecture

The team

The team

The kids were eager to continue the hike up to Demodara but one mum was tired so the dads had to walk back to Ella to bring the cars to a point very close to the bridge. There were many coming along that path to see the bridge. This permitted the kids to go down and explore the underneath of the bridge. To my surprise the little stream of water flowing underneath could not even cover my feet. Kids had a lovely time getting down and climbing up to see the next train on the bridge around 11.45. Finally around 12noon we got the call that the dads had reached the path and we all bid good bye to the giant and walked downhill along a foot path by the railway to meet them. It seems to be a popular place as many vehicles were parked and people walked uphill to see the bridge. There was also a signboard erected by the Provincial authority. It is a by-road between Ella and Demodara and you have to travel about 5kms to reach the path. But undoubtedly the 2.5km hike is a much better option to reach the bridge.

We proceeded to Demodara and visited the railway station, but it was closed as there were no trains for a while. We only had a view from outside and had to satisfy ourselves. We could see the tunnel and a few pictures outside.

Demodara station

Demodara station

The Loop

The Loop

The creator

The creator

We drove passing the station to see the “Black Bridge”. There was a river gushing underneath inviting us for a bath but we turned back as we thought it would be too risky and drove back towards Ella abandoning our idea of a river bath.

We were back in Ella by 1.30 and went straight to our resting place for the day – Okreech Cottages – in the heart of the town. While going through the accommodation options in Ella, I shortlisted a few, but still did not trust booking.com to make a commitment – though it was cheaper that way. I’d rather rely on a genuine review on Lakdasun. So, on our way to Namunukula we stopped for a while at Ella and visited the few places in my list. Undoubtedly Okreech was able to impress us and I should say all pictures shown on the web were genuine and we made our booking without second thoughts.

Okreech Cottages, Ella

Okreech Cottages, Ella

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It is a recently opened property, just 200ms away from the town. They have four cottages – each with two rooms – up and down. Rooms are equipped with a king-sized bed, a mini-fridge and tea-making facilities. Interior is tastefully done using old railway sleepers for all furniture items. They have used railway sleepers for the stairway also. The price was quite reasonable too. They do not have cooking facilities, nor do they provide food, but that is no issue as restaurants and cafes are at your door step – including the internationally reputed “Café Chill” restaurant.

We were tired after our morning expedition and had our lunch (prepared by the cook in Namunukula Bangalow) in the garden benches and retired to our rooms to rest for a while.

We all overslept and it was almost 5 in the evening when we left for “Little Adams Peak”. The turn off is almost 3kms on the Namunukula Road, adjoining “Ella Flower Gardern Resort”. There is a signboard opposite the turn off. We could see the washed off estate road that we had to tackle and asked the three-wheelers parked nearby whether they could take us. It seems to be the norm and they agreed for Rs.200/= one way. We took two three-wheelers and climbed the estate road and they took us up to the point where the road is blocked with a wooden gate. We walked the rest of the path enjoying the breathtaking view of Ella rock and winding Ella-Wellawaya Road. We passed the 98 Acre Hotel and it looked like a paradise in a jungle.

Ella Rock

Ella Rock

98 Acres Hotel in the backdrop of setting sun

98 Acres Hotel in the backdrop of setting sun

The kids took the fleet of steps uphill while we took the path going around and they were on top long before us – making fun of our slow pace. However it was almost dark when we reached the top and we watched the fading sun making beautiful patterns in the sky. We could not enjoy the view for long as it was getting dark and we took the downhill path along the steps. The lit up hotel and Ella town looked like a fairyland in the sky. We called back the three-wheelers and they brought us to where we parked our vehicles using a different route this time.

We were back at our cottage by 7.30 and after refreshing ourselves walked to the town for dinner. It being off-season there were not many tourists but “Café Chill” was packed with tourists. Ella has many options for dinner – there are cafes serving international cuisine as well as “Roti Huts”.

Day 4:

Being the last day of our long journey we got up a little early, packed our stuff and left Okreech by 8am. We promised ourselves to be back soon as we felt we did not have enough time to explore Ella. We drove towards Wellawaya enjoying the stunning view. We could see Ella Rock on our right and Little Adams Peak on our left.

Little Adam’s Peak Mountain range

Little Adam’s Peak Mountain range

After a short drive of 6-7kms we reached Bambaragala Ella/Ravana Ella by the road side. There were large crowds even so early in the morning enjoying it’s beauty. We too stopped there to witness its glory.

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Bambaragala Ella/Ravana Ella

Bambaragala Ella/Ravana Ella

Just passing the waterfall there was a little restaurant serving hot-hot parata with a variety of curries. Having filled our tummies we started our return journey as we had a commitment to be in Colombo by 2pm. Therefore, it was an uneventful, non-stop long journey of five hours. However, our hearts were with filled with blissful memories of our Ella-Namunukula expedition.

Thanks for reading.

 

A Lull in Extreme Travelling – Pic Journey 6…

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Year and Month 15 May, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew Sanketha, Harinda and Me + Gayan and Pubudu joined us at Elpitiya.
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Car/ Bike / On Foot
Activities Photography, Hiking, Waterfall Hunting, Archeology etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Udahamulla->Moratuwa->Panadura->E1->Kurundugahahathakma->Elpitiya->Pituwala->Kahaduwa->Wathurawila and back on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Andahelena Ella is one of the very few waterfalls in Galle District linked to Andahelena Dola.
  • Divankaralena Monastery is also located close to the Andahelena Falls.
  • We saw plenty of garbage dumped by the stupid and careless travelers at the waterfall and on the way inside the forest. Keep an eye out for broken glass if you walk barefoot or with rubber slippers.
  • You have to pay for parking just before you start walking towards Andahelena Ella. Of course this happens if you go by a vehicle which is low clearance. (We paid Rs. 140/-)
  • Don’t disturb the meditating monks at Diwankaralena by venturing past the main complex.
  • Do take drinking water as the water coming from the Dola is polluted with the garbage dumped in it.
  • Please don’t harm the Mother Nature and try to protect her as best as you can.

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Just after Hari’s Doowili Eli Hike, I received a call asking if I’d like to join him for a leisure journey as he felt he deserved a break after the mighty hike. I too didn’t mind one so long as it met my expectations. Fortunately, Hari managed to convince Sanketha too to join and we decided to go to Elpitiya where one of the least heard and explored Andahelena Falls is located.

He’d come across Malaka’s Trip Report about this waterfall and the nearby Monastery, Diwankaralena and we thought it’d be a good opportunity for us to visit them at a snail’s speed. He set the date for 15 May and it turned out I will of course not have a break as Tony and I were to visit waterfalls in Ratnapura and Deraniyagala on 13 and 14 May.

We set off around 6.30am on the 15th May in Sanketha’s car and I was grateful for that coz 550+km on two consecutive days sitting on the back of Tony’s old bike had taken its toll on me.

Tour Highlights:

1. Andahelena Falls, Pituwala

2. Diwankaralena Hermitage, Pituwala

3. Wathurawila Monastery, Wathurawila

 

Andahelena Falls

Take the Elpitiya-Pituwala-Kahaduwa till you reach Pituwala Village. Just before the village you’ll see a sign giving you the directions to Diwankaralena Hermitage to the left. Take this road about half a km till you reach a small restaurant-cum-hotel to the right. Remember if you go by a car, this is where you’ll have to leave it as the road is not good for low clearance vehicles. You’ll anyway have to pay for parking but we couldn’t get the hang of how they charge. We had to pay Rs. 140/- as we left our car and the bike which Hari’s two friends came by.

The falls and the hermitage are located inside “Beraliya Mukalana”. From this hotel, walk downhill (to the left) and you’ll come to a junction where the road forks into two. The left one will take you to the falls about half a km walk through the forest crossing a couple of water streams while the right (rather straight one) will take you to the hermitage about 300-400m away. Both the falls and hermitage are located close to each other.

Andahelena Ella is created by the Andahelena Dola, probably giving her the name.

 

Where we parked the vehicle but he was barely out of the bed

Where we parked the vehicle but he was barely out of the bed

Just look at this

Just look at this

Emerald dove on the hunt

Emerald dove on the hunt

It really was a treat to walk under this

It really was a treat to walk under this

The first stream

The first stream

Very little water despite heavy rains in the last week

Very little water despite heavy rains in the last week

Gayan, Pubudu and our team walking along

Gayan, Pubudu and our team walking along

Tea plantations at the edge of the forest

Tea plantations at the edge of the forest

Second stream

Second stream

Long toes

Long toes

There she is, very little water to speak of

There she is, very little water to speak of

Up close

Up close

Closer

Closer

Side view

Side view

Nothing much in the base pool for Hari's disappointment

Nothing much in the base pool for Hari’s disappointment

You can see the railing to the top left where you can climb to the top. That's how they got up there

You can see the railing to the top left where you can climb to the top. That’s how they got up there

From the top

From the top

Water going down

Water going down

We kept going further up

We kept going further up

Another pool wide enough for a bath but was heavily littered

Another pool wide enough for a bath but was heavily littered

Further uphill but the same story, plenty of garbage left by the idiotic travelers

Further uphill but the same story, plenty of garbage left by the idiotic travelers

On our way back

On our way back

Diwankaralena Hermitage

At the entrance

At the entrance

She was very suspicious

She was very suspicious

Here's the main complex

Here’s the main complex

Steps to go up

Steps to go up

Closer

Closer

Rocky cave

Rocky cave

Looks pretty big

Looks pretty big

Inside and as usual paintings on the rocky ceiling

Inside and as usual paintings on the rocky ceiling

Closer

Closer

Sadu! Sadu!! Sadu!!!

Sadu! Sadu!! Sadu!!!

One of my favorite ones

One of my favorite ones

Lovable

Lovable

Bunch of them at the small hotel I mentioned

Bunch of them at the small hotel I mentioned

He was at the hotel while we had some snacks

He was at the hotel while we had some snacks

Wathurawila Monastery

Continue along the Kahaduwa Road till you reach Kahaduwa Junction and from there go further towards Wathuruwila where this is located.

We were very fortunate to see Sacred Relics of Lord Buddha at the Wathurawila Temple. We didn’t even have to wait in a queue as they must’ve been on display for Vesak Poya.

 

The main entrance

The main entrance

You can see Gayan and Pubudu walking along this shady path which is very cool

You can see Gayan and Pubudu walking along this shady path which is very cool

It felt like Bandarawela in this stretch, must be due to the plenty of trees on either side.

It felt like Bandarawela in this stretch, must be due to the plenty of trees on either side.

The trees keep the scorching heat away

The trees keep the scorching heat away

Not a real one

Not a real one

Going uphill

Going uphill

Ariel view

Ariel view

Giant Buddha statue being carved on the rock

Giant Buddha statue being carved on the rock

Up close

Up close

Looks amazingly beautiful

Looks amazingly beautiful

This is being used to carry stuff to where the statue is being carved

This is being used to carry stuff to where the statue is being carved

Another cave now heavily modified

Another cave now heavily modified

They were picture crazy

They were picture crazy

Here's what it was

Here’s what it was

From the Wathurawila Monastery, we went to Gayan’s Uncle’s place where we had our packed lunch sponsored by Gayan’s parents. His uncle is also a very knowledgeable person and we enjoyed a nice little chat with him about Meemure (see she seems to follow me everywhere) as he’d been in Loolwatte a long time ago.

Afterwards, we tried to visit a place called Kaludiya Pokuna but got the news that it was swarming with people so had to abandon the idea. Later we went to another popular bathing area but it too was no exception. Plenty of people were drinking and bathing and I decided to go upstream looking for a calm and quiet place which we finally found about 200m away from the mayhem.

 

Deep but plenty of drunkards hanging around

Deep but plenty of drunkards hanging around

Tiny cascade

Tiny cascade

Going upstream looking for a quiet place

Going upstream looking for a quiet place

Finally got one

Finally got one

Here it is

Here it is

We lied along this giving a water message

We lied along this giving a water message

He was wondering if Hari had never seen water before

He was wondering if Hari had never seen water before

Looks like black tea

Looks like black tea

Ciao

Ciao

After a nice cool splash in the water we returned to Colombo well before darkness, a rare feat. This could be one of my smallest trip reports and I wasn’t planning on writing this in the first place but under a lot of pressure from Sanketha and Hari, I was forced to do so.

Hope you guys enjoyed it and found this very little known beauty is worth a visit.

Take care and keep travelling.

Sri…

 

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