Seeing the country from the highest point in Sri Lanka has been in my wish list for a long time. A holiday at Nuwara Eliya in April saw us heading towards Pidurutalagala one sunny morning. At 2525 metres, Pidurutalagala is the tallest mountain in Sri Lanka.

The climb to the top is now easy as it is motorable but the summit point is out of bounds unless prior permission has been obtained. The check point at the base allows vehicles to the top in an orderly manner to prevent overcrowding at the summit.

The weather there is so unpredictable with mist and rain playing havoc with the least provocation. But the Weather Gods were so very kind to us the day we went…..

The forest was on either side of the road, the trees typical of montane forests.

It is like a carpet with the tree tops all at the same level….

…. with an occasional tree rising above the rest

Halfway through you can see the sacred mountain of Sri Pada (aka Adam’s Peak) rising above the others.

Sri Pada moutain (Adam’s Peak), as seen halfway up Pidurutalagala

The mountain range with Sri Pada mountain at the centre

There were some trees with hardly any leaves

Having never climbed to the top of Sri Pada, I simply couldn’t get enough and we stopped a few times to get different views!

One view

And another!

The summit is shared by many government agencies and is a high security zone.

The summit

Kissing the clouds

Wild flowers on the way

“….. I pulled my coat tight and slowly climbed the last hundred paces.

What I saw there was the grandest and purest impression I took away from all Ceylon. The wind has just swept clean the whole long valley of Nuwara Eliya, I saw, deep and immense, the entire high mountain system of Ceylon piled up in mighty walls, and in its midst the beautiful Adam’s Peak. Beside it at an infinite depth and distance lay the flat blue sea, in between a thousand mountains, broad valleys, narrow ravines, rivers and waterfalls, in countless folds, the whole mountainous island on which ancient legend places paradise.”

– Hermann Hesse 1911

The mountain range from the top

Nuwara Eliya from just below the summit

Us – 2,525 m (8,292 ft) above sea-level

About 20m above the summit :-)

And the view was spectacular! We couldn’t have had it any better!

Nuwara Eliya – Lake Gregory and Lover’s Leap falls in the distance

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Some Randenigala mountains at left and few Knuckles mountains in the centre

At times it was like standing at Pidurutalagala on Google Earth and looking around!

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Randenigala reservoir snaking between the hills with Knuckles in the centre

Randenigala reservoir

Maha Kudagala Peak – right centre (So says Ashan Geeganage )

Shanthipura is a small village and is also Sri Lanka’s highest settlement

Shanthipura- zoomed

Most of the other mountains can be seen clearly on a good day……

Kirigalpotta, the second highest peak in Sri Lanka

Men at work! Mahaweli maha seya on the left of the antenna and Ambuluwawa in the distance, to the right of the antenna

Randenigala reservoir and Knuckles range

Saptha Kanya (Seven Virgins) range behind the Hakgala Mountain

We WERE quite high up!

Kirigalpotta to the right and Thotupola kanda to the left of the antenna

And just like Hesse did a century ago, I too walked away with the grandest and purest impression from all Sri Lanka.

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Sri Lanka, a country that has seen everything for more than 3000 years, boasts plenty of things worth seeing in this tiny space of 65,000+ sq. km of land. We have practically everything a nature loving person is craving for, from mountains to rivers to waterfalls to forests to farmlands to ancient ruins and so much more scattered all around. There’s not a square foot of land or even the sea which can be ignored. That’s what we at Lakdasun are attempting to do, to show you the value of our country and where you can go see the magic of the Mother Nature unfolding before your eyes. Not only that, we also try to show you the Marvels of the Ancient History created by our own ancestors when the rest of the civilizations across the globe were nothing but barren landscapes.

Moving on to the story, I guess I’ve got to go see some of those creations by our ancestors as most of the time it’s the wonders of Mother Nature I have been visiting. When it comes to ancient creations or ruins as many of us call them, we are unbeatable. No other country in the whole world can claim they have more things to show for than we have. We’ve many things found all around the country built many years ago that even the archaeology department finds it difficult to cope with. Unfortunately for us, they are heavily understaffed and underfunded making it extremely hard for them to keep an eye out for the excavated ruins and maintain them. This further hampers their efforts to dig other unexplored areas to unearth many more things built by our ancestors.

After the Portuguese invasion in 1505, followed by Dutch and the English till 1948; for over four centuries, most of our treasures were stolen by them and taken to their countries. Even to date, they are shamelessly being displayed in their museums and our government is helpless to try and retrieve them. The proud nature, creativity and all the other skills of our countrymen have since been shot to pieces. Our culture was slowly blended with the useless foreign ways making it a hybrid one which is far from healthy. We were divided according to our races, religions and anything imaginable so that they could control us easily. We’re suffering now as a result of those wicked actions. Unfortunately, the politicians paid little attention to these things after the independence making the problems increase dramatically.

Well, I guess I’ve unburdened myself somewhat and before this turns into a socio-political-economic article, I’ll divert to the story at hand. Many people have selected areas where they like to explore. Some want to go see Waterfalls, others only interested in Hiking, and a few rare types are keen on seeing the ancient things. If you ask me, I’d say I’m cosmopolitan when it comes to traveling. I’ve no selected places or things that I love to see. True, I’m very much passionate about waterfalls, yet when it comes to traveling, I can live with practically anything from mountains to waterfalls to caves to archeology to etc.

So after a year of mainly visiting waterfalls (I’ve got 17 Tour de Waterfalls), as the rains eased I decided to change focus and do something else. It’s been a long time since I wanted to go visit Polonnaruwa but kept getting postponed due to this or that. Finally, after a long vacation at Rozella I put in my suggestion to Atha about a quick 2-day trip to Polonnaruwa. As he too was on holiday and had nothing better to do than visiting relations, we agreed on 16-17 April. The sun was ferocious making it a punishment to stay at home during the day. The temperatures were nearly always in mid-thirties so the thought of going to the dry zone in Polonnaruwa was unfathomable. However, we were not gonna be shied away from that. So finally we decided to go enjoy this beauty to the fullest and bring you a detailed report on her treasures unearthed so far.

Unlike other archeological cities, it’s so much easier to see things in Polonnaruwa as they are located in a small area within walking distance; that is if you don’t mind walking about 4-6km from this to the other. There are around 40-50 significant places you can visit within the whole premises. It’s well signposted and maintained by the archeological officials. The road inside are good and can be driven very easily. They even have dedicated car parks where you can leave them and go see the ruins. This Ancient City of Polonnaruwa is declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO.

However, on a personal note, I think allowing the vehicles to enter the premises should be prohibited coz the noise of them and the toxic and chemicals released by them could be harmful to the historical relics. Instead, we could use electric golf cart like vehicles or foot cycles.  It’ll be more environmentally friendly if we adopted such things.

So we booked the Ranketha Hotel over the phone (thanks to Niroshan) and left around 4.30am for Polonnaruwa. The drive was largely uninterrupted and we drove along the Katunayake Highway then followed the road to Kurunegala, Dambulla and Habarana. Most of the shops were closed due to New Year so we had trouble finding a place for breakfast. Finally passing Digampathaha we found a place by the road. They were making hot hot Roti with even hotter Lunu Miris and tasty Dhal Curry. We ate a few with some rice before continuing our journey. Sigiriya and Pidurangala rocks were rising to the sky to our right beyond the Digampathaha Sanctuary. I got a sudden urge to once again climb that majestic rock.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Minneriya Reservoir.
2. Giritale Tank.
3. Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

We drove past the Minneriya National Park and stopped to take a few picture of the reservoir which was full due to the intermittent rains. Here are some pictures for you to see.

First stop

Water levels up

Distant view

Trying to make a living

Water was overflowing

Usually this area is a large grassland but now full of water

Hi sexy ladies!

We continued along the A11 towards Polonnaruwa but met another beautiful and breath-taking tank once again among the thousands of them in North Central. This time it was Giritale Tank which is believed to have been built by King Agbo II sometime in the 7^th century. It was a sight worth seeing and taking pictures so without so much as a second thought we stopped to find a typical watery bird (Kirala in Sinhala) looking for something to eat walking along the road. Here you go, check them out and see would you too have stopped?

Giritale, gorgeous than ever

On the hunt

Oh hi!

Portrait

Islands in the middle adding colors

Window

Having mesmerized, we went straight to the hotel and leaving our baggage, returned straight to the archeological site. This is when I got another shock. Entering into the archaeological site is free for the locals where as they only have to pay Rs. 50/- per vehicle. This is something I believe should be changed. I don’t think any of this should be shown for free even for the locals. They must charge something from them and can give an exemption for the school kids in uniform.

Whatever you see or get for free has no value at all. This only allows people who have really purpose or means to just go and stray about making at times a nuisance to the genuine travelers. I hope they’ll take this into consideration in future. Before we go into the details, I’ll just show you one of the monkeys posing. In fact the archeological site is plagued with them. They’ve been in there since the human occupation and continue to thrive on.

Common sight in the archeological site

Ok, let’s get down to business coz I’ve got so many pictures to show you on the first day. We first drove towards the Inner Citadel. Mr. Thomas at the Ranketha Hotel said it’d only take 3 hours to see everything there is to see. If only he knew that Atha and I walked for more than 15 hours in the unforgiving sun with nothing but a bottle of water. Well, he’s right in a way coz if you just drive through or ride a bicycle, it can be covered in 3 hours but not the way I planned and did it. Even after the 15 hours, we had covered maybe a little over three quarters of the documented sites. Let’s first check what we saw on the first day.

Things we saw inside the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa

Inside the Citadel: 

1. Stone Scripture at the North Entrance to the Citadel.
2. King Parakramabahu Council Chamber.
3. Kumara Pokuna.
4. King Parakramabahu’s Royal Palace.
5. King Vijayabahu’s Palace.

Off Parakrama Samudraya: 

1. Statue of Sage Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila.
2. Pothgul Viharaya.
3. Parakrama Samudraya.

Outer Citadel: 

1. Shiva Devalaya No. 1.

Dalada Maluwa: 

1. Thuparama.
2. Nissanka Latha Mandapaya.
3. Bodhisattva Statue.
4. Wester Gate House of Dalada Maluwa.
5. Velikkara Tamil Inscription.
6. Atadage.
7. Hatadage.
8. Watadage.
9. Galpotha (Stone Inscription).
10. Sathmahal Prasada.
11. Pohoya Geya aka Chapter House.
12. Eastern Gate House of Dalada Maluwa.

Outer Citadel: 

1. Shiva Devalaya No. 2.
2. Unnamed Ruins.
3. Pabalu Vehera.

On the way to the Hotel: 

1. Sunset at Parakrama Samudraya.

An impressive list this is, isn’t it? Wait till you get the Chapter 2 and see the complete set of things we saw within two days. However, we all know our ancestors built these things and left them for us to see. If it wasn’t for our archeologists and the department, these things wouldn’t have been protected like this for us to go see. Most of the buildings had been either burnt or destroyed by the stinking South Indian invaders and then left to be overgrown by the trees.

The archeology department later on had excavated them and restored to the former glory as best as they can. If you buy one of those books being sold at the premises, you can see the state of all those historical relics before restoration. Even today, they go to great pains to keep them protected. So you’re kindly requested to help them do it and do your bit so that these things will be there for the generations to come.

Let me introduce the rulers of Polonnaruwa coz it’s important to try and know them before we go into details. They are the ones who built and destroyed this great city.

Rulers of Polonnaruwa including the South Indian invaders: Kingdom of Polonnaruwa (1056-1212)

“Chola” Invaders – South Indian Invaders – 1017-1070

King Vijayabahu I – 1056-1111

King Jayabahu I – Brother & Chief Minister of Vijayabahu I – 1110-1111

King Wickramabahu I – Son of Vijayabahu I – 1111-1132

King Gajabahu II – Son of Wickramabahu I – 1132-1153

King Parakramabahu I – Parakramabahu the Great – 1153-1186

• The father of Parakramabahu, Manabharana was the son of Mitta, who was the sister of Vijayabahu I. The mother of Parakramabahu was Rathnavalee who was a daughter of Vijayabahu I. He’s the grandson of Vijayabahu I.

King Vijayabahu II – Son of Parakramabahu’s sister – 1186-1187

King Mahinda VI – Arrived from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1187

• He reigned as the king only for 5 days.

King Nissanka Malla – Son-in-law of Parakramabahu I – 1187-1196

• King Nissanka Malla is accused of claiming other kings’ work as his and boasting about them by leaving many stone inscriptions all around.

King Weerabahu I – Son of Nissanka Malla – 1196

King Wickramabahu II – Younger brother of Nissanka Malla – 1196

King Chodaganga – A nephew of Nissanka Malla – 1196-1197

Queen Leelawathie – Wife (Widow) of Parakramabahu I – 1197-1200

King Sahasa Malla – A brother of Nissanka Malla – 1200-1202

Queen Kalyanawathie – Second wife of Nissanka Malla – 1202-1208

King Dharmasoka – Was made king at the age of 3 months – 1208-1209

• He was made king by the General Ayasmantha after disposing Queen Kalyanawathie. He was later succeeded by his father Anikanga.

King Anikanga – Father of Dharmasoka – 1209

Queen Leelawathie – Second time – 1209-1210

Lokeshwara – Invader from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1210-1211

Queen Leelawathie – Third time – 1211-1212

Parakrama Pandya – Invader from Pandya Kingdom, India – 1212-1215

Kalinga Magha – Invader from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1215-1236

If you’ve got familiar, we can go on. It’s very interesting to know how the name came about to this city. The ancient name is Pulathisirpura or Pulathisinuwara which is derived after the Sage Guardian Pulasthi. The name Polonnaruwa is believed to be a combination of “Pulun” (Cotton Wool) and “Maruwa” (Exchange). Now let’s go see what this glamorous city has to offer.

Inside the Citadel

We drove on and parked our vehicle among many others. To my surprise there were so many tourists both local and foreign. Vendors were busy trying to attract their attention away from the relics. Guides kept talking louder giving all the information about the things and the history trying to outsmart the fellow rivals. It was so hot and people paid little attention to what the guides had to say. Instead they were concentrating on keeping out of the scorching heat. Some people kept punching on their mobiles and tabs checking their Facebook accounts not giving a toss about the things in front of them.

We parked our vehicle and walked back to the entrance to the citadel to begin our thorough and systematic exploration of the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa. So let’s get started.

Stone Scripture @ the North Entance

As soon as you enter the citadel (turning to your right); you’ll see this at the entrance to the left of it. None of the tourists bothered to stop here or check what this was. They all wanted to go see the Gal Viharaya, nothing else. Let’s see what it says before going and see what it really looks like:

“Polonnarua Slab Inscription at the North Entrance to the Citadel.

Reign: Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD)

Period: 12^th Century AD

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Sanskrit & Medieval Sinhala

Contents:

Inscription includes a description of virtues of King Nissanka Malla and mentions that the members of the Kalinga Royal Dynasty who protected its subjects with good governance were the most suitable to be kings. It also mentions persons from the Kalinga Royalty should be the kings of Sri Lanka and those of Govi Caste and non-Buddhist princes from Cola or Kerala are not fit to claim legacy to the throne. The people who show allegiance to those who have no right to Royalty will be treated as traitors.”

Entering

Boundary wall

North Entrance

Click image to enlarge

Here it is but not many people take the trouble to stop by

Closer

Carving on the base of the back

King Parakramabahu Council Chamber

We then walked inside and arrived at the King Parakramabahu Audience Hall. This really is an impeccably created structure now restored by the archeology department. The steps up to the hall are supported by the typical Korawakkgala with a beautiful Moonstone at the base. Remaining pillars boast the carvings of the ancient artists with beautiful stone carvings such as Lotus and many others. There is a square-shaped pit in front of the chamber which is where the prisoners were kept until they were called in.

“Contents:

An inscription found on stone slab at the upper level of the flight of steps of the building identifies the building as Raja Vaishyabhujanga Mandapa, the council chamber of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.). It has three consecutive tiers faced with decorated stone slabs. The roof supported on stone pillars of the upper most tier probably had wooden members and covered with clay tiles. The investigations have revealed that the present form of the building may have been a result of a renovation, probably during the Dambadeniya Period (13^th century A.D.).”

The prison pit

Pretty deep

Click image to enlarge

Had to wait more than half hour to get this

Thanks to the Archeology Dept, it’s now restored

One of the many moonstones

Guard stones

Closer look at the mythical creature

Resemblance to Yapahuwa

Up among the pillars

Artwork on the pillars

After 900 years they are still looking amazing

Some more

Clever bit of restoration

From the side

Elephant carvings

Let’s go see the Kumara Pokuna

One of the many wells

Kumara Pokuna

We then walked on towards the Kumara Pokuna (Prince’s Pond). It was so difficult to take a clear picture of anything as the sea of people kept swaying from one end to the other. I had to stand in the hot sun for ages until they clear for a fraction of a second to take a single picture. By the end of the day, I’d been so sunburnt I scarcely recognized myself. Kumara Pokuna was no exception. There were many people bustling about.

However most of the people had no idea what this was (we heard many refer to this as “Kuttam Pokuna”). All they wanted to do was see whatever is there and get out of the sun and go take a dip in a channel. All we had to do was be patient and wait till they go. Most of the time there was a wave after wave of people coming making us sweat it out. Close by was a changing room and a washing place as well. The sluice gate is now almost blocked by the earth where they removed water.

“Contents:

This royal bath now known as the Kumara Pokuna, must be the pond named Sila Pokkharani referred to in the Mahavamsa as built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). This area lying outside the citadel may have belonged to King Parakramabahu’s royal parked named Nandana Uyana. The pond elegantly built with a cruciformed ground plan is designed in such manner as to get water from the adjacent watercourse and is also provided with outlets to drain off the used water. The pavilion near the pond must have been served as a changing room.”

The wall around the Citadel

Almost gone

Steps going downhill to the pond

Still standing solidly

There’s the magic

Click image to enlarge

From the front

Walking around

You can’t get to the steps, it’s blocked thankfully

Looks like clay tiles

Pitawana or sluice gates where the excess water was removed

Changing room

Here it is

Everything is fit for a king

Upper section

Probably where they did the washing

Lord Gana Statue nearby

A whole lot more to see

King Parakramabahu’s Royal Palace

We were already sweating like pigs but there was so much more to see. Climbing back up to the main complex we walked towards the Royal Palace of Parakramabahu the Great. This is believed to have built into 7 stories but today we can only see up to the 3^rd story. There are huge square-shaped holes in the walls to prove that there were wooden beams supporting the floors.

In one of the groups, one grandmother said to her grandson when he was walking past towards the foundations of the buildings that there was nothing to see. “Ohe mukuth balanna ne”. My dear grandma, what would you have expected to see? King Parakramabahu galloping away on his royal horse? What you could have instead said was “Balanna issara rajawaru karala thiyena dewal”. See what our ancient kings have done and built. I guess it was the same with many parents and adults. They have very little interest in the archeological remains so invariably the kids will take after them.

So I’m requesting all the parents and adults those who take their kids to places like these to be more thorough. Do take a genuine interest yourself then only you can convey a positive message to your kids. Please make sure you teach them the correct thing. Read the sign postings placed next to each and every place. There were many people coming and asking me what that particular place was when the description is clearly given next to the site.

So if you visit this place, do it in a fruitful manner and don’t rush through them like in a 100m-relay. Take time to appreciate our ancestors’ work, imagine yourself when those buildings were occupied and along those paths, horses galloped making that signature tuck-tuck noise. Flame lit pathways with watchers walking along the city wall. Go back to those times and enjoy it. Live it in your thoughts and make them into words, tell your children how glamorous their lives must have been. Then only our future generations will understand the real value of these things and protect them with their lives.

This palace apparently was seven storied (must’ve been the tallest building in the whole world by then) with thousand rooms. Would you believe that now? One thousand rooms? Just imagine the sheer size of the whole building. Oh my goodness, I simply can’t imagine how glamorous this must’ve been in the past. Simply unbelievable but knowing King Parakramabahu, anything was possible at the time. Shouldn’t this be named as one of the wonders of the world? I certainly think so but a pity there’s so little remains at the present.

“Contents:

This edifice is said to be the palace of King Parakramabahu the Great and called as Vijayantha Prasada” of Sathbumupaya. This elaborated and decorated palace was a seven storied building with thousand rooms.”

“Contents:

This is the seven storied palace named Vaijayanthi or Vijayanthi Prasada built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) in Polonnaruwa. The name is that of the Palace of God Sakra and its adoption here indicates that there may have been a need at the time to secure the concept that the King and the God were equal. The basic ground plan of the palace is similar to the 12^th century Vijayabahu Palce at Anuradhapura and the palaces at Panduwasnuwara and Yapahuwa. Remains of the three stories of the supposed seven stories can still be identified. Crevices and the sockets on the thick brick walls were to take in large wooden beams. There is evidence that this palace may have been destroyed by fire. Mahavamsa mentions that this had thousand chambers. Around the palace, ruins of many buildings are seen which may have been used as places for rituals and entertainment, and as rooms for palace aides and storage.”

In brief

Click image to enlarge

Distant view

Walking closer

See the holes where the timber beams must’ve been

Interior

See the garnished walls

A shrine?

From the other side

Walking away from it

Surrounding buildings

It must’ve had so many wings

Further back

Those paths are lined with bricks

Solidly built

Some more

Short walls remaining

That plaster is more than an inch thick

A well

Flock of birds gave us a welcome

King Vijayabahu Palace & Surrounding Buildings

Our next stop was the King Vijayabahu’s Palace located sandwiched between King Parakramabahu’s Council Chamber and the Palace. There was only the foundation was visible with surrounding remains of other buildings. Unfortunately, there was no signage giving details like others Here enjoy them too.

What little remains of King Vijayabahu Palace

Remains further beyond

Kumara pond is behind me

One of the many huge trees

Ok, our journey inside the Citadel is over now to Pothgul Vihara

Gosh, I have a thirst that would slay a camel. Already one 1.5 liter water bottle is gone and we had one more in the car being boiled in the heat. It’s gone past 12 noon. Our cameras were flashing warning signals of draining battery. We’ve been on the trot for nearly 2 hours but far from covering even a quarter. We decided to go see the Pothgul Viharaya and the majestic statue near the Parakrama Samudra, one of the most controversial statues in Sri Lanka.

We realized we hadn’t had anything after breakfast but I had fortunately bought two packets of biscuits. We simply couldn’t waste any time going and having lunch at a hotel. There was yet so much more to see so decided to skip lunch and head straight to Pothgul Viharaya. There are three more items in my list there. This is also one of the few things which are located out of the main complex. It’s about 6km from the archeology site and the last 2km along the Parakrama Samudraya’s dam giving us a sensational view of it.

We decided to do just that and see what the afternoon and evening bring. There was a hint of rain in the afternoon and we got to know it’d been raining steadily in the evenings. Without wasting any more time, folks, why don’t you too hop in and let’s go rock-n-roll rather get roasted in the sun.

Statue of Sage Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila

We arrived at the Pothgul Vihara Complex. Ice Cream vendors were selling their products without stopping to take a breath due to the heat. The demand was so great that they simply kept on selling one after the other. Our first attraction was the Pothgul Vihara Statue which is believed to be of King Parakramabahu but many archeological scholars believe this to be one of the sages in the past, Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila. Well, nothing is confirmed as yet so your guess is as good as mine. There’s also a mound of earth which is believed to have been a Stupa closer to the statue.

Let’s go see what makes this a grandeur creation. Fortunately, now the statue has got a roof sheltering it from the sun and rain. I saw they’re in the process of doing the same at Aukana. However, little did I know whether if it’s a good thing coz if a shelter was required, I’m sure those who built it must have thought it over and added at the same time. Who knows if these statues really need the sun and the rain? Well, I’m no expert in this field but this is just a passing thought that occurred to my wandering mind. I hope the archeology department has taken them as well into their consideration.

“Contents:

This statue at Pothgul Vihara is regarded as a superb example of Asian Art. Traditionally, it is believed to be that of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). But some scholars believe that it represents a sage and that it could be Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila. A special feature is the object in the hands of the statue, which many believed to be a palm leaf manuscript and that represents the erudition of the holder. Another view has also been expressed that it is a yoke representing sovereignty.”

Many of these are on sale all around… They’re built using machines

Click image to enlarge

Here we are

Despite some peeling away, it looks very impressive

Front view

Upper body up close

A bit closer

The feet

Nearby Pagoda remains

Pothgul Vihara Complex

We then went towards the Pothgul Vihara Complex which is believed to be the oldest library in Sri Lanka. Of course, I saw remains of a library in Ritigala too and it could be the oldest but I guess it is just a guess that must be why this Pothugul Vihara, as the name suggests, could be the oldest. There were many people walking around but not many seemed to go towards the complex itself. They were quite content to come see the statue and then go off. This suited us really well as it gave an easy photo taking opportunity.

Let’s go folks coz I feel my blood is being boiled inside and I might at any time faint. We’ve finished both our 1.5-litre water bottles and now must go get a 5-litre can to pass the rest of the journey. My skin has turned into leather after hours of being burnt with no sun cream. So be prepared if you come my friends.

“Contents:

Among the ruins of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, Pothgul Vihara Monastic Complex is furthest to the south. Although it is popularly known as Pothgul Vihara, whether it is the ancient name of the complex is doubted. Some scholars believe this could be either Kapila Vihara or Mandala Mandira built by the King Parakrambahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). As its name suggests, this could be the oldest library complex ever found in the island. The peculiar feature of this site is the circular brick building located in the square central terrace. Evidence suggests that the roof itself had been made of bricks and the inner walls contained paintings. On the four sides of this building, four circular mounds are seen which may be the associate stupas, and on the lower terrace are seen square or rectangular residential cells. Shrines of similar designs are seen in South East Asian countries and this particular site seems very much closer to the Minbien Shrine of Cambodia.”

Click image to enlarge

Structures around the main complex

Most of the signs are almost gone. You can help bring them back if possible

The remains of a chamber in front

Camouflage

The boundary walls

Here’s the view

As we were going up

Most of it gone

Entering the main chamber

Circular walls

From inside, that doorframe is solidly built with granite

Surrounding pagodas

Walking towards the back

Many chambers like this all around, probably monks’ living places

From behind

The statue from the distance through trees

Parakrama Samudraya

Our car was like an oven. Heat was such had we left some row flow mixed with yeast and water, it’d’ve been turned into crispy bread within minutes. Most of the travelers were resting under the shades of the trees sucking and licking ice cream. We made a decision not to pursue any more for the time being. Instead, go to the hotel, have a wash and chill out in the AC for a while and then go back to the outer Citadel in the late afternoon.

It appealed to both of us and there was no one else to argue the point, even the car felt happy about it so we drove on along the Parakrama Samudraya Bund. This is another of our attractions so we had to stop to take the pictures of the beauty.

On a different note, there has been some big controversy over a luxury hotel in the area not allowing the full capacity to be filled as it floods their hotel. Whether it is true or not is still not known for certain. Newspapers and media have been having a field day over this. I guess it’s the duty of the responsible people to look into this manner and reveal the truth.

“Contents:

Parakrama Samudra or Sea of Parakram is a combination of three main separate reservoirs or tanks connected with channels. They are Topa, Eramudu and Dumbutulu Tanks which have been linked to create this massive body of water making the lifeline of people in Polonnaruwa. In addition to them, Kalahagala and Bhu Tanks are also a part of the main reservoir. There are separate dams built for those reservoirs as well in order to reduce the pressure on the main dam. All around the reservoir, there are many other small tanks serving two main purposes. Taking the excess water and topping up the primary tanks.

During reconstruction of the Parakrama Samudraya, the water which was supposed to come to the Thopa Wewa has started flowing to the Bhu Wewa. Then the engineers constructed a temporary dam to block the water flowing to the Bhu Wewa. This temporary dam then became a permanent road and resulted in isolating Kalahagala Wewa and Bhu Wewa from Parakrama Samudraya. This new reconstruction has apparently ignored most of the ancient technology thus reduced the capacity of the main reservoir.

The dam of Parakrama Samudray is 12.38km in length and 9.45m in height. The capacity is 134.07 M.C.M and the area at F.S.L is 2539.50 hectares. At the end of the dam and further along the canal which feeds the Parakrama Samudraya is “Angammedilla”. This is where the Amban Ganga is diverted towards the reservoir. Towards the evening, this is a popular roaming ground for the jumbos.”

Click image to enlarge

Along the bund

Rest House is that way

Sluice gates to the channel

Closer to the Pothgul Vihara

Making a living

Look at those clump of clouds

Water gushing out of the reservoir

Ok, now for the afternoon siesta

We arrived at the hotel around 1.45pm and had a long wash before turning the AC full on. It had to do over time to cool the room to a reasonable temperature. Surprisingly despite not having anything since breakfast, we didn’t feel hungry. The bed was nice and comfortable with a soft enough pillow. I set the alarm to 3pm coz I knew we were not gonna get up once comfortably in bed. I guess you too must be tired and feeling the heat. Take a break and have a cup of coffee before coming to the evening fiesta. Remember, we’ve seen only a fraction of the things in the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

Evening Fiesta

The alarm woke me with a start and I had no clue as to where we were. The memories came flooding and I jumped out of the bed and waking Atha, got dressed. The clouds had gathered while we were snoring and now looked ready to come down at any second. Gosh, we had no umbrella. Nevertheless we drove on and found we were hungry. Thankfully small packet of Lemon Puff came to the rescue which we bit into during the drive.

Once again we were back at the entrance to the archaeological site and bought the customary Rs. 50/- ticket. This time we turned to the left and drove on for about 100m before coming to the car park right in front of the Dalada Maluwa which houses many wonderful creations. It was just a matter of time for the rain so we hurriedly walked towards the Shiva Kovil No. 1 just outside the Dalada Maluwa.

Near the car park in front of Dalada Maluwa

Shiva Kovil No. 1

Located just as you turn to the left when you visit the outer citadel, this creates a big impression on the viewer. Built solidly with stone but looks like molded ore, you simply can’t believe how precisely they had cut those stones and made all those arts along the walls.  Let’s see what it says about this wonderful creation.

“Contents:

The ancient name and the builder of this Hindu shrine are not known. But according to the style of architecture, this may have been built somewhere in the 13^th century A.D. As it is located between the Citadel and the Sacred Quadrangle it may have been regarded as an important shrine at the time. The main object of worship is the Stone Lingam in the inner sanctum.”

The Shiva Kovil is to the left

Covered by grass

Click image to enlarge

See how nicely they’ve been put together

Entering, remove the shoes and caps

Outer courtyard

Over the wall

Inner chamber where Siva Lingam is

Just before the interior

Here we are, those square-shaped holes probably were used for the upper roof

Still in use

Looking outwards

Monuments

From the side

Beautifully made

Lion pictures

Must’ve housed a statue

Only half of it is remaining

Pillars

Probably used as a drain

Now to the big dream

Sacred Quadrangle aka Dalada Maluwa

I’m sure you must’ve been impressed by the stone architecture at the Shiva Kovil. Now is the big thing for the day. There are dozen or so unbelievably impeccable marvels within this Sacred Quadrangle which will blow you away. But before you enter the premises, let’s have a look at one of the wells located nearby. There are a number of them scattered around but our idiotic travelers, locals no doubt, have used them us dumping grounds. We saw a lot of garbage, empty plastic bottles and polythene wrappers in them.

The steps taken by the Horton Plains officials should be used at other places too in order to make sure the careless dumping of polythene and plastic is minimized.

Another well just outside the Dalada Maluwa

Bit of water remaining but there was a lot of garbage

Ok guys, now you’ve taken a look, shall we move on coz greater things await our arrival so we shouldn’t keep our ancestors’ spirits waiting?

Caution: Just remember, you have to remove your shoes and caps before entering all the sites inside the Dalada Maluwa. There are signs pasted all over. It’s not just the Dalada Maluwa but many other places too. Always, keep an eye out for these warnings and please adhere to them by all means.

Ok, are you ready to take your shoes and caps off? So let’s go…

Map of Dalada Maluwa (Source: Amazing Lanka)

Thuparama

Our first attraction inside the Dalada Maluwa was Thuparama. Now don’t get confused with the Thuparama Stupa at Anuradhapura. That is a Stupa whereas what we have in Polonnaruwa Sacred Quadrangle is a kind of an image house. This is very much similar to the other grandeur creations like Thivanka Image House and Lankathilaka Image House. Let’s see what it says about this first and then go onto the pictures. Gosh, it’s started raining all of a sudden and I’m grateful for the shelter inside the Thuparama. I can see many people running towards us searching for shelter and it’s gonna be a helluva job taking pictures. To make matters worse, the light has faded a lot and the dim yellowish light inside is not much of a help.

“Contents:

Although traditionally known as Thuparama, its ancient name or builder is not known. This is the only monument among those in Polonnaruwa where the roof is well preserved. Structures of this type where the side walls and the roof are made of bricks without using wood are known as Gedige. The ornamentation of the exterior walls shows the influence of South Indian architecture, Vimana-Panjara-Kudu design. There are indications that there had been a giant Buddha image inside but only the large seat now remains.”

Click image to enlarge

Under renovation

The building is largely intact comparatively

Guard Stones

Signs of the brick roof now covered with tin sheets

High walls

That entrance is where monks entered and did walking-meditation around the image house but inside

Towards Nissanka Latha Mandapa

to the right of the image house

The left side

Also on the left side

This is the seat of the main statue

You can see the intact roof built of bricks

Around

Will be a sight after renovation

The residents

Frightened

Let’s go on

Nissanka Latha Mandapaya

I had a helluva time taking pictures of Thuparama amid the sea of people but I managed to do it somehow. The time is flying but now the rains have stopped and sun is shining once again; let’s go see what else is there. How many of you remember the beautifully carved stone pillars in the shape of a blossoming lotus bud? Well that’s why the Nissanka Latha Mandapay is so special and rated as one of the best creation by our ancestors. It is located near the Western Entrance of the Dalada Maluwa, the area that contains the oldest and most sacred monuments in the city. A nearby stone inscription identifies this as the building used by King Nissanka Malla to listen to Pirith (chanting of Buddhist scriptures).

The structure is an elevated stone platform with a number of stone columns and surrounded by a low stone wall. These stone columns are the unique feature about the Nissanka Latha Manadapaya, since they are carved in a manner that is found nowhere else in the country. The eight granite columns are arranged in two rows, with four in each row. Presumably used to support a roof, each of them is approximately 8 feet 4 inches (2.54 m) in height. In each of these columns, the crown is carved in the shape of a blossoming lotus bud. The rest of the column is elaborately carved to resemble the stem of the flower. Unlike stone columns commonly seen in the architecture of this period, these are not straight, but are curved in three places. According to archaeologist Senarath Paranavithana, the stone columns at the Nissanka Latha Mandapaya are the best examples of this feature of ancient Sri Lankan architecture.

Thankfully it’s now fully covered and you can’t walk inside. It’ll help protect this uniquely shaped structure for many years to come. Well, let’s see what it says on the signage:

“Contents:

According to an inscription in situ, this pillared structure could be identified as the Nissankalatha Mandapa. The unusual pillar type stimulates a lotus stalk with flower as the capital. Another inscription confirms that it is here that King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) listened to Pirith, recital of Buddhist scriptures. In the center is a small stone cut stupa, having truncated top perhaps to receive the relic casket during Pirith chanting. This was probably covered with a roof. Pillars of similar design are also found in a building near Sathmahal Prasada.”

Well preserved

Another stone scripture

Here it is

Click image to enlarge

One of my dreams came true at the sight of them

Look at the unique shape

The pillars and the stupa at the center

There’s a square shaped casket on the top where the relics were kept when he was listening to Pirith

Closer look at the pillar

Base, slightly damaged

Main door

Bodhisattva Statue

Our next attraction was the Bodhisattva Statue placed right in front of the Nissanka Latha Mandapaya between Atadage and Watadage. There was no signage with details but the statue looks very much similar to the Dambegoda Statue. Here are some pictures for you to see. However, there’s also a belief that this could be a statue of King Nissanka Malla.

There it is

Not clear whether this is King Nissanka Malla or a Bodhisattva Statue

The steps leading to it

Reminds me of Dambegoda Statue

Closer look

Western Gate House of the Dalada Maluwa

There are two key gate houses at Dalada Maluwa. One is at the western end behind Nissanka Latha Mandapa and the other is directly opposite (well you don’t have to be a genius to figure that out, do you?) through Atadage, Hatadage and Watadage. There are ruins of buildings closer to the gate house on both ends probably guard houses or even ritual chambers.

Gate house to the West

Guard Houses either side

Nissanka Latha Mandapa in the far

Steps leading to the exit

Surrounding buildings

An image house

Steps of it

Moonstones are there at the entrance of practically every building

Velikkara Inscription

The sandy floor was soaked in water making it tough to walk on. Taking off shoes and walking was somewhat easier. The next in line was a Tamil Inscription named Velikkara Inscription. This is a fairly big one almost 6ft in height and about 3ft in width. Let’s see what it says. I’m sure it’s gonna take a long time for me to type it here but for the sake of our future generations I’ll make that sacrifice. All the contents given on the signage I’ve put in the report coz it’d be difficult for you to read them due to the compress of the size. Here we go:

“Velikkara Inscription.

Reign: After the death of Vijayabahu I

Period: 12^th Century A.D.

Script: Grantha Tamil and Sinhala

Language: Tamil mixed with Sankrit

Introduction:

The Velikkaras rebelled agains King Vijayabahu (1155-1110 AD) in his 30^th year refusing to fight against the Colas and they were punished. It seems that Velikkaras provided protection to the Temple of Tooth even during the early period of Vijayabahu due to the mention of construction of some buildings by them around the Temple of Tooth. Perhaps after the rebellion they were removed being the guards of the Temple of Tooth. After the death of Vijayabahu there were several internal struggles and it is very likely that Mugalan Thera decided to engage Velikkara forces again, for the protection of the Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic of the Buddha, during that turbulent period. The purpose of this inscription is to give an assurance by the Velikkara Soldiers that they would protect the sacred relics and the properties no matter what happened.

Contents:

The Temple of Tooth Relic built by the Commander Nagaragiri Deva on the instructions of King Vijayabahu and the surrounding shrines founded by the Velaikkaras shall be protected by the Velaikkara forces unto the dissolution of the world.

Obeisance to the Buddha in the prosperous island of Lanka King Sirisangabo Vijayabahu scion of the lineage of Iksavaku of the Solar Race gaining victory over many an army entered Anuradhapura. At the request of the Buddhist monks he put on the crown in order to protect the Buddhist religion. The king invited monks from Aramana (Myanmar) and purified the three Nikayas. The king who brought Lanka under a single canopy made donations to the three Nikayas three times equivalent to his own weight (coins) reigned 55 years and lived 73 years.

The Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic which was at the Uttaramula of Abhayagiri Vihara was brought to Pulanari or Vijayarajapura and permanently kept at the Temple of Tooth Relic. The first anointment ceremony (of Vijayabahu) was held there (according to the Culavamsa in the 18^th year at Polonnaruwa) which also housed the colossal Buddha Statue, in which is held annually the ceremony of unloosening of sacred eyes and applying collyrium to them.

Rajaguru Mugalan Thera of Uttaramula, who is virtuous and learned, associating himself with the dignitaries came to the spot, called us and said ‘The Tooth Relic Temple should be under your custody’.

Thereupon we convened a meeting along with our elders and named the shrine ‘The great Temple of Tooth Relic belonging to three divisions of Velaikkaras’ and decided that it will remain as our charitable institution under our own custody. For the protection of the shrine one servitor from each of the (three divisions) was appointed and one veli of land was allocated for the maintenance of each person. We shall protect the villages, the retainers and the property belonging to the shrine, as well as those who enter for refuge; even it is detrimental to us. We shall endeavor as long as our lineage exists and even if we suffer deeper than we have suffered already.

To attest this we have delivered over (to Mugalan Thera), having had it engraved on copper plate and also engraved on stone, so that it may last as long as the sun and the moon endure.

Accordingly anyone who infringes (what is stated above) or consent to infringes or tell others to infringe becomes our enemy, who has committed an offence against Matantra, committed five great sins, a great sinner who had appropriated what was offered to gods, committed an offence against the (Triple) gem, who will enter the hell.”

Oh my gosh, my fingers are dancing now having typed without stopping all that in one go. Just wait coz I’ve got to give a massage to the poor fingers before I go on.

Pooh, that was tough but I’m happy coz that lasted so long after engraving on stone and hopefully this article will last longer until the internet is there unless something like a mega tsunami or an earthquake occurs. Let’s go see the pictures.

So tall

Click image to enlarge

More than 6ft

Tamil letters

The base of it

Atadage

One of the three Dages inside the Dalada Maluwa is Atadage. In addition to this, there is Hatadage and Watadage in the close vicinity. You know my fingers hurting so let’s go straight and see what it says on the signage.

But hang on, did you ever think why this is called Atadage? I’m sure you did but might not have found a reasonable answer. Here lemme offer you with two plausible explanations.

Legend:

“Ata” in Atadage means eight. In this case this building would have been called by this name probably because of it housed eight relics including the main Tooth and Bowl Relics or because it was completed in eight days. It is possible that this was built in eight days as there are indications that this building has used parts of other buildings in Anuradhapura era. The moonstone is a good example. This has been brought from Anuradhapura to be placed here.

Well, nobody is sure as to what made it call Atadage but those two will suffice for the time being.

“Contents:

This is the oldest building in the Sacred Quadrangle. This may be identified as the Temple of Tooth Relic built by King Vijayabahu the Great (1155-1110 AD). This was a two storied building and in the upper floor were deposited the Sacred Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic. The upper floor was probably made of timber and the roof had wooden beams and was covered with clay tiles. Near the building is an inscription in Tamil Grantha script which says that the protection of the Sacred Tooth Relic had been entrusted to the Velaikkara soldiers who were the king’s private guards.”

Click image to enlarge

Entering

See the distant statue?

Typical entrance

Guard stones

Rocky door frames

Remaining pillars

Standing Buddha

Only the feet are remaining

Artistic pillars

Some of the artwork up close

Unbelievable

What about this?

Hatadage

What do you think about the Atadage folks? Pretty impressive ain’t it? Ok, you’ve seen nothing much yet coz I’ve got plenty more to show you. Let’s move on to Hatadage now. Remember, there’s Watadage yet to come. Oh come on, wake up now coz I can see you’re beginning to fall asleep. There’s time to sleep children, now stay awake.

Let’s see how the Hatadage name came about. The theory is somewhat similar to the Atadage but with an extraordinary feat if it is true.

Legend:

The Hatadage was built by King Nissanka Malla (1187–1196), as a shrine to house the Relic of the tooth of the Buddha. Several historical sources including the Rajavaliya, Poojavaliya and the Galpotha Inscription itself mention that it was built in sixty hours. Since the Sinhalese word Hata means sixty and Dage means Relic Shrine, it is possible that the structure was named Hatadage to commemorate this feat. Another theory is that it is so named because it held sixty relics. The tooth relic was presumably kept in the upper store.

The difference is they had built it apparently not in 60 days but 60 hours. Looking at their achievements, anything was possible then. Don’t you think these are great examples to pre-made and assembled structures? Nowadays, engineering boasts about making similar buildings but we had that technology more than 900 years ago, probably more. This is why our typical villagers keep saying “Api Owa Heduwa Suddha Weddha Kale” (in English, it should say something like this “we built them when the foreigners were premature than even the indigenous ones).

Now let’s look at the sign:

“Contents:

This is the Temple of the Tooth built by King Nissankamalla (1187-1196 AD). It is said that it is called Hatadage because it was built within sixty (hata) hours. It has been a two storied building and the upper floor may have contained the Tooth Relic. Among the stone slabs on the walls are three inscriptions of King Nissankamalla of which one has the words “Nissanka Hatadage”. The other inscriptions contain the king’s altruistic activities and advice given to the community of Buddhist monks. The roof may have had wooden beams and covered with clay.”

Key Things in the Hatadage

Porch

Vestibule

Staircase

Sanctum

Standing Buddha Image

Stone Paved Terrace

Parapet Wall

Let’s look at the structure of this:

The shrine is surrounded by a stone wall, 120 feet (37 m) long and 90 feet (27 m) wide. On its southern side is a doorway decorated with stone carvings, leading to a stone paved terrace. The main entrance to the shrine, which is also decorated with stone carvings and a Sandakada Pahana (Moonstone), is directly in front of it. Another smaller doorway is placed on the eastern side of the shrine.

The shrine has had a wooden superstructure with a tiled roof. However, only the walls now remain. The walls of the shrine are made of brick, and the outer walls are covered with stone plates. The main entrance leads to a small chamber, 27 feet (8.2 m) in length and 21 feet (6.4 m) in width. The base of its walls is decorated with designs of lotus flowers and lions. This chamber contains six stone columns and a staircase that had led to the upper floor. The square shaped main chamber is located to the rear of this outer chamber. Each of its sides is 35 feet (11 m) in length and contains four windows. The chamber had contained sixteen stone columns, although only three now remain. At the center of this chamber are three standing Buddha statues carved from granite. These are also partially destroyed. The statue in the middle is 9 feet (2.7 m) in height, while the other two are 7.5 feet (2.3 m) each.

Oh dear, there’s another of those long inscriptions and I’ll put it below for your reference.

“Hatadage Inscriptions of Nissanakamalla.

Reign: Nissanka Malla 1187-1196 A.D.

Period: 12^th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala

All the three inscriptions are by King Nissankamalla. Two have been found in the shrine and one in the porch.

No. 1

Contents:

The Dharma which gives happiness and which alone deserves to be honored in the whole world should always be preserved.

King Nissanka Malla was born in Sinhapura of Kalinga of the womb of Queen Parvati unto Sri Jayagopa. In regular order he was consecrated as the king of Sri Lanka. The King waived taxes for five years and did many meritorious acts. The king toured through the three kingdoms and promoted welfare of the state and the Sasana. Although the king proceeded to Dambadiva (India) and demanded war the Pandyans and the Colas didn’t fight but sent gold, gifts and maidens. Since there were no enemies in this world the king thought to win the enemies of the next world and did many meritorious acts. To venerate the Tooth Relic and Bowl Relic he offered his son Virabahu and his daughter Sarvanga Sundari and for the purpose of redeeming them caused to make a stupa in gold. He also built ‘Vatadageya’, ‘Nissanka Latha Pavilion’, and ‘Nissanka Tooth Relic House’ and dedicated to them many villages, lands and serfs.

May the future kings protect Dharma and secure welfare of both the worlds!

Let it be thus understood by future kings that these are the…

No. 2

Contents:

From the second year of accession King Nissanka Malla toured around Sri Lanka including places such as Samanola (Adam’s Peak). He freed the kingdom from lawlessness thoroughly; that a woman might even carry a casket filled with the nine kinds of gems and not be asked, ‘what is that?’.

After living in a palace built by another king for seven years and seven months he thought it does not fit for his (status). He erected within 45 days a palace of seven stories. He built a magnificent pavilion from which he watched elephant fights. The king built ramparts and gates, three stone pavilions and Kalinga Park.

In the three kingdoms he erected palaces at several places and built stone thrones named ‘Virasimhasana’. He suppressed various administrative injustices. In the cause of thus inspecting the three kingdoms in various ways he fixed a gavu (mileposts) calling it Nissanka-gavu (several of these have been found).

The king made annual donations (in coins) to the poor equivalent to weights of himself, Queen Subhadra, sub-queen Kalyani, sub-king (Virabahu), minister Vikramabahu, Queen Candra, and Their Highnesses Parvati and Sarvanga Sundari.

No. 3

Although the venerable ones, teachers and preceptors practice the established doctrine and discipline, the kings are responsible for the protection of the Sasana of the country for the continuation of the religion for 5000 years. Accordingly for the safety of the Sasana the king thus advises; 

• The venerable ones who are teachers and preceptors should not, without inquiry, robe foolish, sinus false and crafty persons.
• They should not do improper things contrary to the teachings of the Buddha.

(The inscription is damaged and the rest cannot be read.)”

Well, I’m not gonna say how hurting my fingers are coz you can guess as much. Let’s go and see the pictures folks.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Entrance, see the removed shoes

Surrounding wall

Look at the window

Typical guard stones

Close up of the walls

Moonstone

Interior

There’s the main statue

Three statues

Restored as best as they could

Better shape than the rest

Atadage seen from the interior walls of Hatadage

Sath Mahal Prasada is there

Watadage

This too is another impressive marvel and one of the best preserved thanks to the Archeological Department.

The Polonnaruwa Vatadage, which occupies most of the south western area of the Dalada Maluwa, is a prominent structure among them. It is the best preserved example of a Watadage in the country, and is somewhat similar in design to those belonging to the Anuradhapura Period, especially Thuparamaya and Lankaramaya.

The building has been built around a small stupa with a base diameter of 27 feet 8 inches (8.43 m). The Vatadage has two levels; the lower platform and the raised upper platform that contains the stupa. The upper platform is 80 feet (24 m) in diameter, and the lower one 120 feet (37 m). The lower platform is 4 feet 3 inches (1.30 m) from ground level, and the upper platform is 5 feet 3 inches (1.60 m) from the lower.

Source: Wikipedia

The circular lower platform is entered through a single entrance on the northern side. Four elaborately constructed doorways lead from it to the upper platform, which is surrounded by a brick wall on its edge. These entrances are oriented to the four cardinal directions. The center of this platform is occupied by the stupa, which has four Buddha statues seated around it, each facing one of the entrances. Each of these statues is 5 feet (1.5 m) high, and is seated on stone seats with a height of 2 feet 10 inches (0.86 m) each. Three concentric rows of stone columns had existed on the upper platform. Two of these rows, of which nothing remains, were within the brick wall, while the third row is just outside it. The inner row had consisted of 16 columns, the middle row of 20, and the outer row of 32. The existing stone columns of the outer ring are about 8 feet (2.4 m) in height.

As usual, I’m gonna tell you what it says on the signage. I’m grateful that there’s very little of text to be extracted. No mile long inscription here.

“Contents:

This is one of the architectural marvels of Polonnaruwa. This may have been originally used as the Temple of the Tooth as there is mention of a round relic built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1187 AD). But according to the Galpota (Stone Book) Inscription, King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) has built a Watadage within the quadrangle naming it Ratnagiri Watadage which suggests that at least some renovation or reconstruction work has been done here during King Nissanka Malla’s reign. Just as other Watadages in the island, this too appears as a round building enclosing a stupa at its center. It has taken the present form probably as a result of the renovations or reconstruction works done in the region of King Nissanka Malla or during the Dambadeniya Period (13^th Century AD). The roof supported on stone pillars probably had wooden members and covered with tiles. The moonstone and the two guard stones to the north and east respectively maybe cited as the best examples of their kinds in Polonnaruwa.”

Now let’s go and see the pictures of this beautiful structure. The sky had turned royal blue once again and the sun was shining in full force. We’ve couple of more to cover before we call it a day. So let’s hurry it up.

Click image to enlarge

Just look at that

Very clear and nicely preserved moonstone

Either side of the entrance

The other

Looks bigger than others

Look at those subtle carvings

There a better view

My favorite pic out of the lot

Must’ve been an amazing sight in the past

Closer view

Other statues all around

Pagoda in the center

Walls and clear signs of thick plaster

West entrances

Carved pillar

Out of the east entrance

Getting down

Every inch of space is an example of genius craftsmanship

Ok, move on

Galpotha (Stone Inscription)

That was wonderful, don’t you agree? We’ve got a couple of things more to cover before we finish exploring the Dalada Maluwa. Next in line is a long and wide stone inscription called Galpotha or Stone Book when directly translated. As usual, this too has been translated and given on the premises for the travelers’ benefits even though only a handful of them take trouble to read it.

You’re gonna have to read it before checking the pictures but of course you can skip it altogether but I wouldn’t recommend it coz it won’t be a fruitful experience should you ignore it. Ok, I’ve had a break and my fingers have had their rest. So let’s go find out what this gigantic inscription reveals. I can promise you one thing, that it’s gonna be really interesting and King Nissanka Malla’s name should be there.

“Galpota Slab Inscrtiption.

Reign: Nissanka Malla 1187-1196 A.D.

Period: 12^th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala mixed with Sanskrit

Introduction:

The postscript of the inscription states that the granite block in which it is inscribed was brought from Sagiria (Mihintale) which is about 100km away. The weight of the rock is approximately 15 tons and the dimenstions are 26ft 8in X 4ft 7in X 1ft 9in (av.). This is the longest inscription of King Nissanka Malla. The king has outlined some of his policies and the duties and responsibilities of the subjects in this inscription.

Contents:

Hail! This Dharma, which gives happiness and which alone deserves to be honored by the whole world, should always be preserved.

Vijaya, the first king of Sri Lanka had come from Kalinga and King Nissanka Malla was also born in Sinhapura of Kalinga, of the womb of Queen Parvati unto Sri Jayagopa belongs to Okkaka Dynasty and arrived in Sri Lanka 1700 years after Vijaya came to Sri Lanka, on the invitation of the king (Parakramabahu I). (He) then became proficient in Buddhism and in the science of arms and held the positions of regional king and viceroy, before being consecrated as the king of Sri Lanka named Sirisangabo Kalinga Parakramabahu Viraraja Nissankamalla.

After he became king he revoked cetain enactments by previous kings which were unfavourable to the people. The King waived taxes for five years and later imposed reduced taxes than previously, as follows;

Closer section of the paddy fields to the tank – 1 amuna and 3 pala and 6 madaran

Middle section of the fields from the tank – 1 amuna and 1 pala and 3 madaran

Chena cultivation tax and tax on re-cultivating of abandon paddy lands had been discontinued.

The king gave money and wealth to the poor and alleviated poverty. Abandoned reservoirs and channels in the three kingdoms were repaired and thus brought prosperity and security to inhabitants. He established courts of justice and gave wealth to thieves to stop them from thieving. The king got rid of the thorns of the Sasana, held annual ordination, ceremonies and the virtuous monks were given requisites.

The king brought many princesses of Solar and Lunar dynasties from Kalinga for his son, the Viceroy Virabahu for the continuation of the dynasty. He donated annually wealth equivalent to the weights of himself, the Chief Queen Kalinga Subadra, the second Queen Kalyana of Gangavamsa and his son [Virabahu], his daughter Sarvanga Sundari. The people were in readiness to give their lives for the king as proof of their love and loyalty. Performing day after day the ten meritorious acts, he took his residence in the Kalinga city of Polonnaruwa.

Thinking of the injustices done to Sri Lankans in the past he declared war against Colas and Pandyans. When the Pandyans came to know that Commander Lag Vijayasingu Tavuruna himself would command, the Pandyan king and his mother pleaded only some land for their maintenance and sent gifts and royal maidens. Similarly Colas also sent gifts which quenched the flame of his anger. He formed friendly alliances with Karnataka, Nellur, Gauda, Kalinga, Tilinga and Gujarata. From those who did not wish such friendship he struck terror and extracted maidens and tributes from such kingdoms. In Ramesvaram, at a ceremony he bestowed boundless wealth on inhabitants and built a Devala (An inscription of the king has been found in Ramesvaram).

Then reflecting that he had no enemies in this world, he would conquer the enemies of the next world, built many alms-houses and did many meritorious acts. To the Tooth and the Bowl relics he offered his son and daughter and redeemed them by offering a [model of a] dagaba in solid gold together with other valuables. The king had built Temple of Tooth, Watadaga Geya, Nissanka Latha Pavillion, Ruwanweli Stupa (Rankoth Vihara) and four subsidiary stupas at the Maha Vihara [Dimbulagala].

• The kings are human divinities and must therefore be regarded as gods.
• King inflicts punishment [to offenders] commensurate with the offence just like a physician applies remedy for a bodily ailment.
• They restrain [their subjects] from evil and thus save them from falling into hell.
• For those who do not observe the wishes of the king, human world would be like hell.
• For those who observe the wishes of the king, human world would be like heaven.
• The trouble which one undergoes on behalf of kings is like sowing of see of happiness.
• The people should keep off from all evils.
• One who protects his wealth should not neglect his family.
• Though one has fallen from office, one should be loyal to the king like a fruit fallen from the stalk.
• Talking about the secrets of the kings is like invoking the death by the repetition of charms.
• He who gives his life for the king will live long in the fram of glory.
• Real feeling is the feeling of gratefulness.
• The best occupation is cultivation of land.
• The highest treasure is the Dharma.
• Since all these are received through the kings they should be cherished.
• Kings do not like those who are puffed up with pride.
• When one has received titles, offices and wealth from the king he should not become proud.
• According to tradition only the sons of the kings should be elected as kings.
• If there are no princes to maintain the kingdom the queens should be elected and in the absence of them as well, the people should place a slipper worn by a great king and protect the kingdom.

The Kalingas are the rightful heirs to the throne of Sri Lanka and therefore non-Buddhist kings such as Colas and Pandyans shall not be consecrated as kings of Sri Lanka. If there are any of them [Kalingas] to be found, is the duty of the people to place them in the position of supremacy to protect the Sasana.

It is indeed the Dharma that protects this whole world. So reflecting, cherish love for the acquisition of happiness in both the worlds. Thus are future kings requested by King Kalinga Nissanka Malla who loves virtue.”

Pretty impressive, isn’t it? I felt so proud of our ancestors at the way they governed this country. That is something unfortunately, our present leaders haven’t learned. All the MPs and the rest of the government officials and politicians should be thought and given a code of conduct based on these. But again, it’ll have to be implemented by the politicians themselves. So it won’t become realistic.

You know that there’s another short description given at the sight, don’t you? Let’s take a look at that as well.

“Contents:

This giant inscription which assumes the shape of a palm-leaf manuscript in stone has been a work of King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) and it is the largest stone inscription so far discovered. The inscription itself says that this large stone block was transported from Mihintale, some hundred kilometers away from Polonnaruwa. It describes the genealogy, heroic and altruistic deeds of King Nissanka Malla. The letters of the inscription were gilded with molten iron. There may have been a roof over the inscription for its protection. The figure of the woman on the side face of the stone on whom two elephants are sprinkling water has been identified as Goddess Gajalakshmi (Goddess of Prosperity).”

See, there’s no point going and seeing these things if you haven’t a clue as to what they are, who’s built them, what was the purpose for it, how old they are, etc. Now is the time for long awaited pictures.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

In brief

Look at the size

Look at the Gajalakshmi between the Elephants

Thickness

Writing is super clear even after all the years

Sathmahal Prasada

Now, we’re gonna see another tall building built during the Polonnaruwa era. Unlike the 7-story building of King Parakramabahu Palace, this is so much smaller and has a pyramidal shape as it narrows down going up. Let’s see what the archeology department has to say about it.

“Contents:

Although known as Satmahal Prasada, its ancient name or other facts of this edifice are not known. Despite the fact that there’s reference in the Mahavamsa that King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) built a Satmahal Prasada in Polonnaruwa there’s no positive evidence that it is the building. Built in the stepped pyramidal form this seven-storied structure may be a stupa of a rare kind. It bears a close similarity to the stupa at Wat Kukut in Lamphun, Thailand. The architectural features common in South-East Asian countries are also visible in this building.”

Click image to enlarge

There it is

Statues in the center all the way up

This is towards the bottom

There’s an entrance too

This must’ve been the way they went upstairs coz it’s too small to make it inside

Pohoya Geya (Chapter House)

Our next attraction was the Chapter House located between Galpotha and Sathmahal Prasada. In Sinhala, it’s the Pohoya Geya but there was no further information displayed on site. Let’s see the pictures in action. One special feature is a stone pillar at the center very much similar to the curved lotus stalk of Nissanka Latha Mandapa. Apart from that, there are a handful of pillars along the border of the structure. At the entrance, a prominent moonstone is present.

See anything unusual?

This is very common you know

Closer look and wet after the rains

I was referring to this, not as glamorous as Nissanka Latha MAndapa but similar all the same

Eastern Gate House of Dalada Maluwa

Well, it’s time to leave the Dalada Maluwa but not before examining the East Entrance. This is in a better shaped compared to the West Entrance and is right in front of the car park I told you earlier. Without much more ha ho, let’s see the pictures.

Out we go

Surrounding buildings

Some more

Bottom of the steps

Could’ve been another inscription and see the below carvings

You saw just this

Ok, that’s about the Dalada Maluwa where most of the Sacred Shrines are located. If you think, we’ve done for the day, you’re badly mistaken. Stay with us for a bit longer folks, coz I’ve got three other things that would interest you.

Shiva Devalaya No. 2

We drove on towards the South Entrance to the outer Citadel. You would have to go through it to see the majestic Gal Viharaya and many more prominent shrines and relics. Just before the Southern Entrance, there’s a right turn that will take you to Shiva Devalaya No. 2. We took that and it’s a drive about 400m. Pabalu Vehera is a located somewhere in the middle to the right but we drove straight to the Shiva Devalaya hoping to cover Pabalu Vehera on the way back. So let’s see what it says about the Shiva Devalaya No. 2. Remember we visited the No. 1 just before Dalada Maluwa. Should you like to refresh your memory, just scroll up.

“Contents:

This is the oldest Hindu shrine in Polonnaruwa. Known as Shiva Devala No. 2, it had been built by King Rajaraja I (985-1014 AD). According to Tamil inscription found in situ this has been dedicated to the consort of the above king, Vanavanmadevi. In the center of the shrine is the stone-cut Sivalinga as the principal object of worship. Many images of Hindu gods were discovered from this site. The Namdi figure, the vehicle of God Siva is presently located in front of the shrine. Hindu religious activities continue here even at the present time.”

Click image to enlarge

Here we are and look at this, 100% granite

The vehicle of God Siva

Pretty much similar to Kovil No. 1

Here’s the entrance but can’t go in as it’s functioning to-date. The Pooja is conducted every Tue and Fri

See the closed door?

Another of Nandhi

Time to go

Unnamed Ruins

The Eastern Entrance to the outer Citadel lies a little away from the Shiva Kovil No. 2 but we didn’t attempt to go see it as the time was going really fast and already the dusk was falling. We wanted to see Pabalu Vehera before the darkness completely enveloped us. It didn’t look like many have ventured into see the Entrance so it’ll have to wait till another time. However, on our way back to the Pabalu Vehera, we noticed a ladder going up towards a tree with a hut on the top of it. I was very interested in that so we stopped to look around.

Beyond the tree there was a path that led to a hut about 50m away. Naturally, I wanted to investigate and walked towards it. There was nobody in sight so looking closer this was a place under excavation by the archeology department. It was in the middle of being unearthed and hopefully there’ll be something new added to the already overflowing collection. By the way, that hut could be used to stay at night or to keep watch as jumbos might be roaming around. Just imagine how many more sites are there buried under the earth waiting to be excavated. That’s why we have to keep funding the Archeology Department all the time coz they’re digging for our heritage. Here are some pictures.

If they find something new, well you’ve seen the first hand before anyone else. So keep smiling…

Here’s the tree house

Oh dear!

Being dug out

Looks like a big complex

Heads of the pillars

Maybe this will be unveiled in the near future

Pabalu Vehera

The next thing, the last in our list, was Pabalu Vehera. A beautiful name for a Dagaba and we were highly excited. So we drove on and found to our greatest relief that nobody in sight. It was the same at Shiva Kovil No. 2 but after we arrived, there were two other vehicles. Apparently these shrines are not visited by many and often enough. Having tried to avoid people throughout the day, this was a godsend opportunity to take in the evening surrounding with this imposing Pagoda.

This is what I really love about archeology. You can go back in time visualizing what it was like then when you’re alone in a site like this. Most of the day, we were deprived of that opportunity but here was our perfect opportunity.

Dear me, maybe I spoke out of hand or too soon. Here comes a vehicle and I can see a couple of bicycles too coming this way, probably foreigners. Well, let’s go see this beautiful structure before it’s too late and the darkness envelopes us. Oh, we gotta see what the story behind it before that.

“Contents:

Located to the south of the main street which provides access to the ancient city of Polonnaruwa from the eastern gate. It is popularly believed that this may be the stupa supposed to have been built by Queen Rupavati, a consort of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). But there is no definitive evidence about its ancient name or the builder. The popular name Pabalu Vehera may derive from the recovery of ‘beads’ (Pabalu) in the vicinity. Around the stupa there are several image houses. A special feature of this stupa is a narrow staircase in three flights at the south providing access to top of the basal tiers.”

Click image to enlarge

Fading light wouldn’t help

Closer, there’s a Buddha Statue in the center

There it is clear now

Partially damaged

There were signs of image houses all around this

Another statue

Bit of clear ground

There another

This is pretty much intact

You saw a similar one just before entering the Shiva Devalaya No. 1

The sun was setting behind us

Another image house, do you see the fallen statue?

Ok, getting dark now

Through the granite frames

Sky is clear but not the ground

One of many, they are staying around the Stupa in the night

Sunset from Parakrama Samudra

All right, we’ve covered, I’d imagine, about 30-40% of the documented shrines and relics inside the whole complex. Most likely a lot less than that percentage I just mentioned. I know you’re wondering “What? We’ve only seen that much after all that?”. I don’t blame you for thinking like that coz that’s how any ordinary person would feel. Don’t you worry coz we’re gonna see some more tomorrow, now don’t get alarmed, and it’ll be another story. Right now it’s almost dark and our camera batteries have long gone dead but Atha suggested we go see the Gal Vihara Statues in the dusk.

We kinda wanted to do a reconnaissance around the other attractions so that we could plan the following day properly. So we drove on and parked at Gal Vihara. Then took a walk with nothing but our phones. It felt so great not to have the cameras with us as we were only taking in the scenery with our eyes. It’s something we must try every now and then. We walked leisurely towards the Gal Vihara to find many people were still at the premises. Do you know the Gal Vihara used to be called as Kele Viharaya (Forest or Jungle Temple)? That’s just what we heard one guide was telling his crew. It had been nothing but thick jungle all around the complex before it was unveiled thus giving it the name. But now it’s popularly known as all over the world, Gal Viharaya.

I’m going to be naughty and not show you any pictures I took with my phone. It felt heavenly and I went back in time in my mind.

—There were flames stuck along the path to the statues. A crescent moon was high up in the sky with a million stars to keep him company. The distance sound of drums at the Dalada Maluwa was soothing to the ears. Wind blew from Parakrama Samudra bringing a cool air that covered our bodies. There was a group of monks walking in a line looking downwards in meditation. The upper bare-bodied guards with bandanas carrying swords and spears were stood at every entrance looking menacingly. Clinking and clattering of horses moving about was music to my ears. The Buddha statues looked serene in the flame light. Moonlight reflected on the granite surface falling that light on the leaves. For a moment everything came to a standstill and I felt a calmness wash over me.—

“Let’s go, it’s getting late” Atha woke me from my reverie. I dragged myself towards the car and we drove away. Passing the Parakrama Samudra where you can see it clearly from the main road I put my foot down hoping to step on the brakes but realized it was Atha who was driving. Shouting for him to pull over I unbuckled myself getting the camera out of the backseat where it was being charged. We stopped and both ran like madmen to the viewing point. What we saw is something every person’s dream but only a handful of us were lucky enough to see it.

The sun was at this last stage of setting in the distance across the Parakrama Samudraya. The water rippled in the wind and the vivid colors reflected on the surface beautifully. I was lost for a minute. There was no one else but me. Now you’re gonna see what I saw but let me warn you, the pictures are not even half as good as what I saw for real.

Now, look at this

Simply breath-taking

Burning horizon

Dark clouds to the left

Standing all alone

Beyond words

Ok folks, going to eat and sleep now… See you in the next one

Oh dear, this has really been a marathon of archeology. We’re all but exhausted and all we need is a delicious meal and a cozy bed.

I hope you folks enjoyed it as much as I did bringing it to you. I don’t have to reiterate the fact that I went to great trouble to bring you a comprehensive narration of what we saw within 7+ hours.

Thanks for being patient and reading through. Now go imagine yourselves in the former glory of Polonnaruwa and we’re gonna get some rest.

I’ll bring you the Chapter 2 in the next report with more pictures and details. Until then, take care and keep travelling.

Sri…

I have noted Idalgashinna Mountain in my first visit to Haldummulla old fort . It gave me the idea of conquering in the day of trekking from Haldummulla to Idalgashinna . She was wrapped with mist on that gloomy day when we reached Idalgashinna Railway Station.

We got into 14th Saturday night mail from Colombo and reached Idalgashinna station at about 4.30am with chilling cold. After inquiring about climbing pathway we headed to the mountain around 6.30am. It was a brightened day and surrounding view was beautiful. First we climbed up through the tea estate and reached the end of the tea patch where Pinus trees start. There was no foot pathway within the Pinus forest. After about fifteen minutes we reached the second highest point where it provides good view towards Koslanda, Beragala, Haldummulla and Belihuloya. Southern plane of the country was visible far away. We had our breakfast there and noted highest point of the mountain in our left hand side. It was bit difficult to reach there due to acute ascend. This place also provides good bird’s eye view but not well as the first place.

Idalgashinna Mountain-View from Haldummulla

Misty view of the mountain on my way from Haldummulla to Idalgashinna.

Idalgashinna Mountain- Photo taken on my way to Beragala

Kittens rolled at Idalgashinna Station.

Good morning Idalgashinna…..

Directions-The concrete road goes up from black star to orange star. There is a water tank at orange star. Then take foot pathway up along the tea patch.

Towards Welimada plateau. Namunukula is seen far away.

.

Land mark-Water tank

Beragala Mountain and Idalgashinna station

First target of the day-second highest point

Along the tea patch

Going up through Pines Forest

Superb view towards Kalupahana. Black star-Wangedigala, Black arrow-Balathuduwa, Red arrow-Gommolliya and Blue arrow towards Hortain plains

Zoomed view of Balathuduwa and Gommolliya

View of Bambarakanda Waterfall

Zoomed view of Need wood tea factory

Central picture shows Sabaragamuwa University

Drop of Kuragala

Colombo-Badulla road get it’s turn at Haldummulla

Might be Pettigala???

Thinuwan gets his drop to the highest point of Idalgashinna Mountain

Beragala Mountain

Getting down

Rail turn at Idalgashinna station

Our second activity of the day was to walk from Idalgashinna station to Ohiya station. This rail walk meets highest number of tunnels in between two railway stations. There were 14 tunnels (No: 35-No: 22) between Idalgashinna and Ohiya. Total stretch of this railway track is 8.85km and tunnel No: 29 is the longest (181.09m) out of all these.

Oil man

Our walk starts

Sampo signal ahead

Walking with a weight

Tunnel No:35-First tunnel we met

Group photo

Thinuwan in the Man-hole

Tunnel No:34

Bridge in between tunnel No:34-No:33

Black and white

Tunnel No:33

Tunnel No:32

Tunnel No:31

Tunnel No:30

View of Tunnel No:29 from No:30

Into darkness

Tunnel No:27

Tunnel No:26

In between tunnel No:26 and 25

Road side cascade

Tunnel No:25

Scenic

Tunnel No: 24

She is coming

Tunnel No:23

Tunnel No:22

Reaching Ohiya

Ohiya station

Our last activity of the day was to descend to Kalupahana from Ohiya via Udaweriya. The time was around 1.30pm and we had Rotti from Ohiya. The boutique people said we wouldn’t able to reach Kalupahana before the darkness if we follow the normal route. Then they said about a short cut to omit the first part of the route and asked us to use a three-wheeler in that phase.

Nirosh and myself said good bye to Thinuwan (He got the train to Haputhale to go to Colombo) and started the journey by the three wheeler.

This alternative road is a connection between Udaweriya estate and road towards Hortain plains from Ohiya. We entered Udaweriya estate and passed famous Devil’s staircase in our journey. Estate workers were so kind and showed us some short cuts to follow. By 5.30pm we reached somewhere closer to Bambarakanda Holiday Resort and called for a threehweel to complete rest of the journey.

The road from Ohiya to world’s end

This is the junction where road gets divide. Bad road goes toward Udaweriya estate.

I couldn’t avoid myself snapping this beautiful road

This is the place where our short cut started

Getting down through mist

Note- This red crosses indicate not to follow. These marks will guide you to the road towards Hortain plain

.	Entering to the upper part of tea estate

Hortain plains get cleared

Getting down through Devil’s stair case

Devil’s stair case

Decorated my trek bottom

Entering to Kingslyn estate

Famous map in everyone’s reports – Click Image to Enlarge

Udaweriya estate

Seasonal waterfall

Directions

One of line houses we met

Painted Pagoda

Descends through the tea estate-We followed short cuts

The bridge

Passing famous ‘V’ cut

View towards Samanala Wewa reservoir.

Following rain

Last shot of the Day-Bambarakanda Waterfall

Thanks for reading

Hello everyone, hope you’ve had a great time especially after the Pulathisipura Chapter 1. Tell me I managed to massage your urge to go see them as soon as possible. If you got that craving and learned something useful, then I can consider myself successful and worthy of all the troubles I took. Now, if you’ve been waiting wondering where the Chapter 2 is, here it is. I’m sure you’re excited so am I, why wait any longer let’s go rock ‘n’ roll.

I left you all with a beautiful sunset over the Parakrama Samudra. The room was comfortable and AC kept humming away as if trying to put us to sleep. We slept like logs until 5am. Getting up at that time is not appealing to many but for us, it’s something we’re now used to thanks to Ana. We got up and hurriedly got dressed coz we wanted to go to the bund of Parakram Samudra just before sun came up. We really wanted to have the reservoir to ourselves and feel the serenity and calmness in the morning.

Coming out of the hotel in a hurry, we almost bumped into the Doberman of the hotel. Thankfully Mr. Thomas warned us just in time and we escaped without a scratch. Just imagine having to come across a huge and fierce doggy in the dark. We drove fast to the bund while the early morning rays were coming out of their hide out. Having parked our car, we walked along the bund and surprisingly, there were quite a number of people out and jogging reminding us of Colombo walking paths. It was in a way a good scene as people are getting really health conscious.

Water was almost still and a slight breeze brushed our cheeks. Gulls kept hovering above the water looking for an easy prey. The road was practically isolated save for the joggers. The sun started his ascent right in front of the reservoir, I’d have loved if it came up beyond the water surface but it wasn’t to be. Dimbulagala rose high into the sky bringing back memories of us walking all around after getting lost. As usual, the sky turned into yellow, orange and crimson before the sun appeared through clouds and rose above the coconut trees. I’m sure you like to see the pics so let me pamper your minds.

Just after 5.30am

There he comes

Slowly

Look at those beautiful colors

Patterns

Nearly up

There he is

Bright and huge

Coconut leaves in the morning breeze

Parakrama Samudraya

Morning flying

Another

How’s that? Sensational, don’t you agree? We decided to take it easy and drive towards the New Town just to get a feel of the city life. The town folks were still in New Year mode and most of the shops were closed. It was one helluva thing to find a place which was open where we could get some snacks for breakfast. We managed to find two different rolls. Then we drove further towards Kaduruwela keeping the railway line to our left. I just remembered in the recent floods, the whole A11 got flooded and people used the railway line which is somewhat higher than the road, to move about.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Gal Viharaya aka Rock Temple.
2. Nearby Archaeology Remains at Gal Viharaya.
3. Nelum Pokuna.
4. Thivanka Image House.
5. Demala Maha Seya.
6. Shiva Devalaya and Other Remains.
7. Alahana Pirivena.
8. Kiri Vehera.
9. Hevisi Mandapa Pavilion and Crematory Stupas
10. Lankathilaka Image House
11. Baddha Seema Prasadaya.
12. Rankoth Vehera.
13. Monastic Hospital Complex.
14. Gopala Pabbatha Rock Shelter & Inscription.
15. Menik Vehera.
16. Shiva Devalaya.
17. Well & Trade Stalls

Gal Viharaya

A peacock was roaming about but shied away when we tried to stop and take a picture. Around 7.00am, we decided to get back to our main purpose of the day. We arrived at the main archaeological office just after 7am and bought the usual Rs. 50/- ticket. Then ignoring everything else in the vicinity, we drove straight to the Gal Viharaya as we really wanted to have it for ourselves without people bustling around. The morning rays lightened the surrounding and we took in the scenery while driving to the destination. The car park was empty and only a small group was walking towards the site and we followed suit.

This was a sight worth seeing again and again during your lifetime. I’m not surprised people who visit Polonnaruwa primarily visiting the Gal Viharaya ignoring or not knowing other attractions. This is a magical and wonderful creation not just in Sri Lanka but in the whole world. There are three prominent Buddha Statues (Samadhi, Standing and Sleeping postures) carved out of solid granite and placed in such a way as if they’ve been done somewhere else and brought here for the display. There’s a roof covering the statues now and the golden brown sun rays illuminated the statues falling slowly on them as if not wanting to make it too obvious.

We walked along the footpath and there was the tiny lake to our left full to the brim in the recent rains. It looked nice and placid and reflections of the trees could be seen on the surface. We climbed down the steps and arrived at this magical place. The sandy floor in the site had been already swept and I felt a bit ticklish walking barefoot on it. Looking at the serene Buddha Statues is something enchanting. I felt a deep calmness washed over me making my mind and body relaxed. The few devotees chanted “Sadu, Sadu, Sadu” and my hands automatically raised in worship. I felt tears rolling down my cheeks as if all the burdens and troubles inside being filtered out of me. This was something heavenly.

The carvings were that good even the pillow of the sleeping Buddha has been designed to depict the crease when his head is on the pillow. You’d have to look a bit closer to identify this. Well, let me show you what we saw but don’t expect it to be that glamorous coz you gotta be there in person and see it with your own eyes. A famous and well-known myth about the standing statue is that it is of Ananda Thero. However this is not true as the statue is placed on a Lotus Pedestal which is only used for Buddha Statues. Thus the theory this is of Ananda Thero is contradicted and believed after all this is of Lord Buddha. Before we go, let’s see what it says on the signage.

“Contents:

This was built by the King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) which was also known as Uththararamaya in the ancient time. At that time separate image houses were set up for each statue. Such statues are known as meditating statue, standing statue and sleeping statue respectively. The stone inscription including the Sanga (monks) amendments engraved by the King Great Parakramabahu is also found here.”

Just off the car park

Nearby tank

Good morning!

Towards the marvels

Beautifully maintained

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

There it is

First one

Simply amazing

Either side of the statue

At the base

Side view

The center area

Carved stone pillars

So clever and artistic

This is inside the cage

Closer look

Other carvings

Here’s the huge inscription

Closer look

One of the best statutes I’ve ever seen

Closer look

Shadow of the roof on the top part

Feet on the lotus stand

Full picture

Standing and sleeping

No words to express my feelings

Do you see the slight inwards shape of the pillow?

Full length

From the other side

Nearby Archaeological Remains

Afterwards, we roamed around the complex taking in the rest of the remains. There was a refectory (Dhana Shalawa) nearby and another unnamed structure a bit further away. There are signs of a pond closer to the temple as well. After exploring around, we decided to go explore the rest of the sites as the crowd was getting bigger every minute. We were really lucky to have had the place to ourselves without people milling around. We took a walk around the lake and saw the Kiri Vehere looking as white as freshly got milk glistening above the trees. We found a hawk nestling on a tree branch and managed to take a couple of pictures. There was another bird too we found among the leaves which looked really beautiful.

The hawk was really big and unfortunately my knowledge of birds is less than limited. Hopefully Dhana would be able to figure them out. This was one of those key moments in my photography as I hadn’t had a close encounter with a hawk before. Let’s see them before heading to our next destination.

From the path

You can read the sign

Superbly maintained

No idea what this is or any signage to say what it was

Closer look

Going towards the tank

Oh hello!

Look at the reflection

Sunbathing

Just look at the reflection

Here’s the real one

And the copy on the water

Lotus walk

Oh ho

Walking around the tank

There he is

Fiery eyes

Another pic

Ok, off to other things

Lotus Pond

Our next destination was the Lotus pond which is about 1km away from Gal Viharaya. However we didn’t know that despite all the signage there was no mention of the distance to the particular shrines. Leaving the car at Gal Vihara car park, we decided to take a walk hoping to catch more birds on the way. We did see many but weren’t lucky enough to catch them on the camera. The road was mercifully shady as it ran through the forest patch. Morning rays filtered through the tree branches and leaves.

We met one of the archeological officers coming to work from a nearby village. He spotted a group of deer inside the jungle sunbathing but hearing our footsteps, they ran into the jungle. The walk looked endless when we saw the turn off to Demala Maha Seya but decided to see it on the way back and carried on until we arrived at the Lotus Pond. This created a big sensation because the Lotus Pond Auditorium in Colombo was designed after it otherwise only a few interested parties knew of this and how wonderful it really is.

We saw a couple of Black-Headed Orioles (Kaha Kurulla for the laymen) as we turned towards the pond. In terms of the size, if you’re expecting to see a mammoth pond, you’ll be disappointed coz we’re used to seeing these gigantic creations in Polonnaruwa. This was somewhat smaller and there was no one around making it easier for us to take pictures at will. So let’s go see how it looks. Further away from it lie remains of what they call a circular shrine as well.

“Contents:

The shape of the pond, built in the form of a full blown lotus flower gives it the name, Lotus Pond. This falls within the premises of the Jethavanarama (Monastery) built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD), and according to Mahavamsa eight such ponds have been built. Ruins of several such ponds have also been discovered during explorations within the limits of this monastery.”

Three attractions on this road

Love the bright colors

Lonely road

Black-headed oriole

Cleaning session

There it is

Click image to enlarge

Oh wow

Look at those precision carvings

Speechless

All around

The circular shrine between Lotus Pond and Thivanka Image House

Not much excavated

Thivanka Image House

Walking further way we saw a huge building bordered with a skeleton metal work showing that it was under restoration. This was the world famous Thivanka Image House. I recalled going through many times during my school days remembering who built which. Thivanka Image House was a big sensation in our history lessons. Unfortunately, I guess the current school syllabus doesn’t have history as a primary subject as far as I know. A country without a history is like a curry without salt for me.

We’ve so much of history but very little attention is paid to that and learn from them. Once again, we had the place to ourselves because all the people were busy at Gal Viharaya and probably go away afterwards without exploring any further. This is very much similar to the Thuparama Image House at Dalada Maluwa (check my Polonnaruwa Chapter 1) and to be seen Lankathilaka Image House. The main complex has housed a huge Buddha Statue while there were other statues on either side. There was a path created through the thick walls that goes in a semi-square around the image house but inside. This was used by monks to meditate while walking along it. We were lucky to have been shown the inside of this. Of course, Thivanka Image House has the most intact walkway and we walked through the dark tunnel like confined pathway which now owned by the bats.

The archaeology officer on site was very friendly and gave us a lot of information. There were faint signs of some beautiful paintings similar to Sigiriya Frescoes. Unfortunately, most of them are now gone leaving only a very few of them. State Engineering Cooperation has undertaken the restoration work and now in progress. There were many artistic creations on the outer walls as well but taking pictures through that skeleton barrier was not easy. I will definitely go there once it’s done, hopefully within a year or so.

There are a few giant squirrels that visit the shrine and one came while we were there. The fella looked very tame but we decided to leave it be. Well, let’s go see how this looks like, shall we?

Metal covering for renovation

Can’t get a better pic of the outside

All around it’s covered

Guard stone

The other

Steps

Look at that precision artwork

Parts of statues remain

Interior

Can you see the giant statue inside

The roof

Paintings are fading away

Some more

Few of the good ones

Another

Must’ve looked beautiful

Some more

Endless

There you go

The last in my collection

Only a partial one

The lotus seat has been restored

You can see the restored walls

The roof also renovated

The low entrance to the meditating path

Inside of it, very narrow

The roof

A window

Back out of it, this is the steps to the second floor

Outside

Time to go

But not before without a chat with him

Demala Maha Seya

Leaving the Thivanka Image House wasn’t easy coz I simply wanted to spend more time there but we had to get back to Colombo the same day so left while a group of visitors arrived on site. Retracing our steps, we passed the Lotus Pond before entering into the path to the Demala Maha Seya. It got its name due to the way this was built. King Parakramabahu had brought many Tamil Prisoners after invading South India and had used them to build this huge Stupa giving it the name.

It’s being restored under the funds of UNICEF. They’ve allocated 10 Crore (100 million rupees) for the project. The supervisor on site, Mr. Sampath revealed that in the 80s, there had been a similar attempt to unearth the whole stupa and restore it but apparently the officials hadn’t done it the proper way. According to him, so far they’ve uncovered 1/12^th of the whole stupa. I simply couldn’t believe my eyes as there was a huge area had been unearthed but it was less than 10%.

Hopefully they’ll do the finishing within my lifetime. He showed us the way to the top of the Stupa where a smaller one could be seen. From the top, we could see the tops of Rankoth Vehera, Kiri Vehera and Lankathilaka Image house above the lush greenery against a cotton wool and royal blue sky. It was as if we were in a different world. We could see the Dimbulagala in the distance with its prominent Akasa Chaithya but the glaring sun made it almost impossible to zoom in for a picture.

On our way back, the workers offered us plain tea served in coconut shell cups. This was an offer we didn’t wanna turn down as we were very thirsty having left our water bottle in the car. After bidding farewell to them, we headed back towards the Gal Vihara Car Park but not before encountering some more remains. I know you’re now itching to see the pictures but we must check what we can learn from the facts given at the plaque.

“Contents:

This is called Demala Maha Seya because it was built by Tamil prisoners-of-war from King Parakramabahu’s (1153-1186 AD) South Indian campaigns. The stupa was built enveloping an existing hillock and is about 600 meters in circumference at its base. The summit of the stupa dome is levelled and contains a small stupa at the center. It is not clear whether this was left undone because of the size of the project or whether it was an attempt to build a stupa of the Kota Vehera type.”

Washed out in the rain

Cut to explore the interior

At work

Click image to enlarge

Where men at work

One end of the basement

The path to go to the top

Look at the view

Bricks are clearly visible

80-foot deep pit to inspect the interior

Can you see that?

From left, Rankoth Vehera, Lankathilaka Image House and Kiri Vehera

Rankoth Vehera

Kiri Vehera and Lankathilakaya

On the top, see how big the area is

Those pits are for inspecting the core

A ladder

The small stupa on top

Closer

There it is

I simply love this

Plenty of space on top

One of the worker’s

Ok, time to go

Other Archaeological Remains including a Shiva Devalaya

We walked back towards the main road after a reviving tea offered by the workers. The sun was up and we were beginning to regret not taking the car but had no choice. All along the road we noticed a few places where there were signs of plenty of garbage left behind. Apparently these were the places where vendors would do those temporary shops when there are many tourists. Unfortunately, none, either the Urban Council or those vendors, had the sense, the courtesy or the obligation to clear the place after the shops are closed.

We arrived finally on the main road and saw another complex of archaeological remains that stretched right up to the Alahana Pirivena. This could very well have been a part of it as well but I’ll show you some pictures before going into the Alahana Pirivena main complex. See what do you think about them?

This is right before turning to the Lotus Pond, Demala Maha Seya and Thivanka Image House

Shiva Devalaya

Here are some more pics

Rest of the area

Plenty of them

Endless

Alahana Pirivena must stretch as far as this

Ok, let’s go now

Alahana Pirivena

We then walked towards the car park and quenched our thirst with long pulls from the water bottles before turning right to the Alahana Pirivena through which you have to get to the absolutely breath-taking and grandeur Kiri Vehera. Now talking about Alahana Pirivena, there had been 5000 monks resided in the monastery and guess what, every one of them had their own chamber (“Kuti” in Sinhala). So this gigantic monastery had 5000 individual chambers in the premises along with Refectories, Preaching Halls, Ponds & Wells and many other buildings.

The king was responsible for the well-being of the monks and it must’ve been a great deed to the Buddha Sashana. As usual, I’m gonna give you the contents of the archaeology sign located at the premises. Let’s see what it says:

“Contents:

 Having an extent of 35 hectares, this is the largest monastery in Polonnaruwa extending from here up to Rankoth Vehera. Established by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.), the name suggests that the site had been a former cremation ground which has been confirmed by archaeological excavations carried out here in several places. It is believed that the small stupas here were built on the cremation sites of prelates or of the Royalty. The monastery has a terraced layout of Kiri Vehera, Lankathilaka Image House, Baddhasima Prasada and the small stupas (some of them are crematory stupas) and located on two upper terraces while the monastic hospital, ponds and hundreds of resident monks’ cellars are located on the lower terraces.”

So, what are we waiting for? Yeah, of course the pictures, ain’t it? Right, here they are but don’t spend too much time coz we’ve plenty to cover today and need to leave for Colombo as well.

Click image to enlarge

Kiri Vehera

Another pic

The path, but our focus was to the right of the path for Alahana Pirivena

These are mainly Monks’ Cells

A sight I couldn’t resist

There

Many more like these

One of the ponds

See them stretch to the far

Another angle of the pond

There must be millions of stone pillars in this complex alone

The drainage system

Perfect square, completely made of stone

Kiri Vehera

One of the crematory stupas

Closer look

Another

5000 cells for the 5000 monks

The wall where the terraced layout is in place, Kiri Vehera is in that level

Another drain

Right, let’s call it off and go to Kiri Vehera

Kiri Vehera

Impressive, isn’t it? Alahana Pirivena has so many remains of chambers and halls that I could’ve taken more than a couple of thousand pictures. Now you know what it is, we’ll move into the other places but you haven’t seen the last of Alahana Pirivena coz after Rankoth Vehera, we’d come back into it from the other end. Kiri Vehera is located right next to the Alahana Pirivena but on an elevated area. So are Lankathilaka Image House and Baddha Seema Prasada.

Kiri Vehera is as the name suggests glistens with pristine white after its paint work. Well, as soon as you heard the name Kiri Vehera, it’s the Kataragama Kiri Vehera that comes into your mind, doesn’t it? Well, this is also Kiri Vehera and more than 900 years old. This is a sight worth seeing again and again if you can manage. The beautiful white Stupa rising into the royal blue sky full of even whiter clouds is something out of a dream. We didn’t feel the ferocity of the heat as there was a cool breeze flowing across us as if to feel us welcome.

I know now you’re very impatient to see the pictures and here they are without further delay. Take a look and tell me what you feel. Do you feel the same heavenly feeling as I did? Probably not coz seeing the pictures are not as half good as seeing them for real but you’ll have to be content with that for the time being if you haven’t been there already.

Oh before all that, what Kiri Vehera is? Here’s what the archaeology department has to say. I’m also putting the translation of the Kiri Vehera Inscription which is kept to the side of the stupa.

“Contents:

Nothing is known about the ancient name or the stupa popularly known as Kiri Vehera. But it is speculated that this is the work of Queen Subhadra, a consort of King Parakrambahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.) The present name probably derives from the fact that its lime plaster of the dome is better preserved than of most other stupas in Polonnaruwa.”

“Kiri Vehera Slab Inscription:

The inscription reveals victories of King Nissankamalla and General Lak Vijayagu Senevi in the wars with the countries such as Pandaya, Cola, Kalinga and Cambodia. As a memento of these victories the Hindu Temple, Nishshankeshwara was built in Rameshwaram. On his return after the victories a pavilion with this inscription was built for worshipping Lord Buddha’s relics.”

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Partially broken Moonstone

Just had to wait for nearly quarter of an hour for this pic

Just don’t know how long I could’ve waited like this

What do you think?

And this?

I could’ve taken hundreds of pics

There you go

Small image houses in front of the stupa

Here’s the inscription

Very long but broken in places

A different setting

Hevisi Mandapa Pavilion and Crematory Stupas

Our next stop was the Hevisi Mandapa in front of the Lankathilaka Image House which looked very much similar to the Nissankalatha Mandapa but without those beautifully carved and shaped pillars. Instead this too had some wonderfully crafted pillars with plenty of artwork. It was not mentioned what it really was but one of the guides said it really was a “Hevisi Mandapa” where the drummers played their drums for religious rituals like they do in Dalada Maligawa and all the Buddhist Temples. There were few other Crematory Stupas as well.

They were in different sizes and then we found the larger the stupa was, the higher the level of spiritual status of the monk was. For example, if a monk had obtained Arhath Level of Status, his remains would’ve been kept in a bigger stupa while someone with Anagami Level would be in a smaller one. It was really interesting and we walked around taking hundreds of pictures. We could see the almighty Lankathilaka Image House close by but before you go anywhere near that, take a look at these pictures. And then we’ll go see the marvelous Lankathilaka Image House. I’m gonna tell you how the name Lankathilaka came about so be ready.

Crematory stupa

Look at this drain

Small one

Medium sized

Another tiny one, see the Lankathilaka Image House in the background?

Pavilion where they played drums

Front view

So many pillars

Carvings too

You can see the tip of Kiri Vehera

There you are

Closer look of the lotus

More beyond where we stood

One of my favourites. Main image of the Lankathilaka can be seen through the pavilion

Some more artwork

One of the many

Now to the biggest Image House

Lankathilaka Image House

Now you’ve seen what the rest of the ruins are like including many more crematory stupas, let’s go see the third and probably the biggest of all image houses in Polonnaruwa. You remember, we saw Thuparama Image House yesterday and Thivanka Image House this morning both of them were simply amazing. Now it was time to see the Lankathilaka Image House which compared to the other two, somewhat more damaged. However the tall walls on the image house could be seen from the top of Demala Maha Seya along with Kiri Vehera and Rankoth Vehera.

There were a few tourists walking about so we stayed for them to go to other places before visiting it as I wanted to have the place for myself as long as possible. You’d know why if you ever go to one of these archaeological places and find that there’s only you. You could in your own imagination go back in time and picture how it might have looked in the pinnacle of its time. Unfortunately, the stream of never ending visitors kept making it harder for me.

Now talking about the image house itself, one of the guides said that this is called Lankathilaka because it was like a gem for the whole country. Now let’s see what the archaeology department has to say about it all.

“Contents:

This is the vaulted type (gedige) image house built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.) and is the largest image house built in ancient Sri Lanka. The two pylons at the entrance and the giant standing Buddha image inside signify its scale. There is evidence that the interior and exterior walls had been adorned with paintings. The stucco relief sculpture on the exterior walls show South Indian influence. Obvious indications are there that this image house had been renovated during the Dambadeniya period (13^th century A.D.) the building with stone pillars in front of the image house may have been a pavilion for Hevisi Drummers.”

Well, before you go into the pictures, there’s another inscription found here which is called Lankathilaka Guard Stone Inscription. Let’s see what it says:

“Lankathilaka Guard Stone Inscription:

Reign: Vijayabahu IV (1270-1272 A.D.)

Period: 13^th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Pali

Contents:

Inscription mentions that King Vijayabahu IV renovated the Lankathilaka Vihara, hundred years after it was built by the great King Parakramabahu”

Ok, here we go.

Gigantic, isn’t it?

Grand

Korawakgala

Left one

And the right

Another view

Amazingly beautiful

Do you see the carvings? They are found like this only here

Broken statue, you saw something similar at Thivanka Image House

Entering

To the left wall

Like Thivanka Image House, partially broken

Full frame

Right wall

The narrow steps to the top

The tiny meditating pathway

Inside, hundreds of bats screamed at me when I took this picture

Other entrance

Through one of the windows

Looking back at the entrance

One of the side entrances

Some of the restoration work is going on

Next in line

Baddha Seema Prasada

Ok, it really is something, isn’t it? Now, let’s go and see Baddha Seema Prasada a bit further from Lankathilaka itself. Baddha Seema Prasada is a Chapter House where they rehearsed the code of discipline. The place is in an area further elevated above the rest of the structures and around it is the ruins of magnanimous Alahana Pirivena. We saw a couple of more crematory stupa and two ponds where they probably bathed. It looked amazing and we could see both Kiri Vehera and Rankoth Vehera either side of us.

Let’s see what this really is.

“Contents:

This is the Uposathagara (Chapter House) of the monks of the Alahana Pirivena where they rehearsed the code of discipline (especially the Pati Mokka). The pillars and brick walls suggest that there had been a storied building. This is the largest Uposathagaras in the island and according to Mahavamsa was twelve storied. The central platform within the building was to locate the relic casket.”

All are crematory stupas

Getting to the top of the terraced layout

Some more stupas

We took a walk

Another pond

Very narrow steps, probably one could’ve gone down or up at a time, don’t know why?

Further below

Another part of Alahana Pirivena

Oh, another pond

Just look at that

Waiting for a prey

Another of my favorites

Ok, now let’s go and see the Baddha Seema Prasadaya

Paths

Drain from an upper level

Directed to the lower level

Windows of the upper floor of Lankathilaka

There’s our destination

Never ending walk

You can go around

Click image to enlarge

The top layer of the area is for Baddha Seema Prasadaya

Closer look

Side walls

Instructions to the visitors

There were many of these (note the white patch towards the middle of this pillar)

It is this, gotta be very careful

Walked all around before entering

Ready to go

Moonstone is intact

Here interior

Could’ve been the center stage but used for what?

Ruins all around

Windows

So many pillars

There Rankoth Vehera

Over the trees

Nice blue sky

The wall to the outside

From the back

Now, the big stupa

Rankoth Vehera

Our next stop was Rankoth Vehera which we could’ve reached walking through the many thousands of ruins in Alahana Pirivena coz it covers so much ground and spreads from Kiri Vehera towards Rankoth Vehera. However, we decided to come back to the Gal Viharaya Car Park and take the car. It’s about 500m drive to the Rankoth Vehera and there’s a spacious car park as well. The roads are well maintained and looked after. We reached the not-so-crowded car park and got down to this majestic dark brown stupa looking as large as anything.

The towering stupa was really a sight to see and we hurried towards it as there were only a few people around. It was so hard to take pictures with the bustling crowds moving about. We got to the footpath that led to it and started clicking away. The sight was something incredible and I simply wanted just to sit and watch. However, the time was against us and I only wish we had another day, at least, to explore more closely. Right folks, let’s go see what the archaeological background this wonderful creation has before moving onto the pictures. There’s an inscription like in any other places.

“Rankoth Dageba Pillar Inscription:

Reign: Nissankamalla (1187-1196 A.D.)

Period: 12^th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala

Contents:

This inscription records that the king inspected the main cities and villages of the country and rendered all beings to live without fear. The methods for economic progress and the victories gained from the Cola and the Pandaya wars are mentioned. This inscription is inscribed on the pavilion from which his majesty worshipped the relics in the Ruwanweli or the Rankoth Dageba.”

Did you notice that Rankoth Vehera is also known as Ruwanweli Vehera? Well, it’s getting really interesting, isn’t it? Until I read this, I didn’t know anything about it. That’s why you need to be very thorough when visiting archaeological sites such as this coz there are many things, seemingly trivial, we miss out due to various reasons. I really must go again and see them leisurely, probably leaving my camera behind.

There’s another inscription and let’s read that as well before moving on.

“Rankoth Dageba Gal Asana (Stone Seat) Inscription:

Reign: Nissankamalla (1187-1196 A.D.)

Period: 12^th Century A.D.

Script: Medieval Sinhala

Language: Medieval Sinhala

Contents:

This inscription includes records of donations and the war victories of the king. It further mentions the stone seat on which this is inscribed was the seat from which king observed the construction of the Ranweli Dageba or the Rankoth Vehera at Polonnaruwa.”

Oops

Amazing

The Kotha of Rankoth Vehera

A structure before the stupa

Here it is

Stupa is about 50m from here

Click image to enlarge

The inscription

Closer look, can you see the precision area like a single rule book

Good view

Through the trees

Looks like a huge tank

Towards the upper part

Full frame with image houses

So many of them

There in front

Small moonstone

Buddha Statue

Just look at this

Click image to enlarge

This is where the pillar inscription is

Can you see the writing?

Some more

Structures beyond the stupa

Another image house

Stony doorframe

Inside with flash

Another angle

Stone window

Closer view

Ok, let’s move on

Monastic Hospital Complex

It really was a great sight to walk around this majestic creation. We then started walking towards the Alahana Pirivena from the other end. If you remember my first trip to Ritigala Archaeological Site, I showed you a hospital complex which must’ve been very modern at the time. So inside the Alahana Pirivena, we came across another hospital which was used by the monks in the monastery. It further proves this monastery was self-sufficient in every possible manner and the kings provided generously for the well-being of Maha Sangha and Buddha Sashana.

The place seemed to have had many different areas for the monks probably depending on their condition and we even saw the remains of a herbal tub made of stone where the patients were submerged in herbals in the pond. Let’s see what the history says of this place.

“Contents:

Archaeological excavations here have confirmed that this is an ancient hospital. One room has still a stone cut medicine trough (Beheth Oruwa) which has been used for treating patients by immersing in herbal oil. Several surgical and medical equipment used at the time have been found during excavations at the site. This 12^th century hospital more or less follows the 8^th century Mihintale prototype.”

Click image to enlarge

Here it is

Let’s go in

Pretty big

Here’s the stone trough

Toilet

Probably a drainage pit

Side view

Moving on

Gopala Pabbatha Rock Shelter & Inscription.

Our next stop was the Gopala Pabbatha Rock Shelter which is about 50m opposite the hospital inside the Alahana Pirivena. Nowadays, it’s a slightly raised rock with a huge Nuga tree grown on the top. There was no sign explaining what this place really was but they’d put the meaning of the inscription. Let’s first see what it says and then probably the pictures will help you make out what it really is. However, as the inscription had been done in either 1^st or 2^nd century, it looks as if there had been people well before the pinnacle of Polonnaruwa era which was the 12^th century during King Parakramabahu the Great and Nissankamalla.

In addition to this, we walked a bit around the Alahana Pirivena further examining the ruins and you’ll also see more pictures after the Gopala Pabbatha.

“Gopala Pabbatha Rock Inscription:

Period: 1-2 Century A.D.

Script: Later Brahmi

Language: Old Sinhala

Contents:

A donation to the Chulagala Viharaya by Chula Ahalya, son of Ayatiya Buta is mentioned in the inscription.”

It’s over there

Can you see?

Like a door

Click image to enlarge

Mostly rubbed off

Closer

Going to the top

See the Nuga invasion

Huge one

This is through that door

Lower side

There you are

Many cells of Alahana Pirivena

Some more

Here	The path from Baddha Seema Prasada to the Rankoth Vehera

Baddha Seema Prasada is over this

Another drain

I simply couldn’t get enough of this

Portrait

Menik Vehera

Now the time is getting past 1pm and the sun is ever so unforgiving. We must’ve drunk more than 14 liters of water from yesterday yet still feel mighty thirsty. So we topped ourselves more with water and decided to go for the last prominent attraction for the day. However, despite our meticulous planning and walking, we still missed quite a few places of interest which means, will need another day or two at this grandeur place.

We decided to leave the car and started walking towards the Menik Vehera about 200m away which felt like 2km in the end. You have to walk backwards as in towards the inner Citadel or where the Dalada Maluwa is to visit the Menik Vehera. It’ll be there just outside the Inner Citadel. This is not a tall stupa like Kiri Vehera and Rankoth Vehera thus not that much visible from the main road. Only a few people visit this place as a result, especially the foreigners who carry a map of the ancient kingdom.

“Contents:

Popularly known as Menki Vehera, the history of the monastery is not known. But according to the architectural features, it could date back to the 8-9 centuries A.D. This monastery has a terraced layout and consists of a stupa, a bodhigira, refectory, monks’ dispensary and cells. Built on a high terrace surrounded by a high wall, the stupa here is of a rare type.”

The path

Have to climb up

Monk’s cell

Lavatory

Full length

Squatting pan

There it is

Closer view

Surrounding image houses

From the front

Damaged a lot

Another

Muragal

That’s the Bodhigara

There you can see the sign

Surrounding cells

Ok, go see what this is

Click image to enlarge

Here we go

Left

Right

A jumbo, haven’t seen that before

Lion faced tablets etched into the wall

Through the granite doorframe

Apparently there had been a structure here as well

Like Kota Vehera, they’ve cut it open

Other ruins around

See the wall covering the stupa?

Time to go

Trade Stalls, Well and Shiva Devalaya

Ok, here’s the last part of our journey where we walked back to the car park from the Menik Vehera. There were many ancient remains of Trade Stalls either side of the road which must’ve been quite a sight in the old days. I wonder what they might have sold and how the royalty and the others went shopping. In addition to the trade stalls, there were a couple of wells littered with plastic bottles and garbage by our so-called visitors and another small Shiva Devalaya. Well, you must be tired after checking so many things (well over 200 word pages) so will show you the pictures without further delay.

Well paved road

Walls bordering the road

Many of these along the road

Shiva Devalaya

There you go

Shiva Lingam

One of the wells

Another

Rains had made a pool

There are the trade stalls

Some more

Either side of the road

The last one before we left

Couldn’t have been a better picture

Ok, what do you think? Don’t tell me it took you one week to finish the report. To be honest, I’ve never felt this tired before after writing a report, not even after the Lakegala. However, I hope someone, especially the kids, will learn something out of it and I’ve done enough to satisfy their curious little minds and tempted their hearts to go see these wonderful creations.

We must teach our younger generation the value of these things so that they’ll safeguard them for the years to come. Tell them what a proud nation we’d been in the past when the rest of the world was nothing but crawling along the ocean floor. I hope I’ve achieved my target in the two chapters and you and your kids learnt something worthwhile.

Well, time for me to say bye for now and will see you soon with a brand new fairy tale. This is Sri signing off for now.

Take care!

Sri…

I still remember the day I visited Senanayake Reservoir for the 1st time in my life. It was a family trip to Ampara in 2001 & we reached Senanayake Reservoir in the evening around 5pm. Sun was going down. I was totally lost among the sceneries around me and looking at the top of Inginiyalaga Mountain I thought “If I go to the top how the sceneries will be”. Since that day, the idea was in a corner of my mind but due to the distance from Colombo and other various reasons I had to give up several times.

When it comes to hiking we always think of the hill country. Thanks to the heavy showers we experienced to the hill country (during Sep, Oct, Nov 2014), we tried to find out somewhere else to go. Inginiyagala just came to my mind & we started gathering details. Also we found out about “Pallanhela” while browsing lakdasun. So we planned to leave Colombo at night, reach Inginiyagala next day early morning, see the spectacular views & leave back to Colombo at night. And it’s a 2 man team.

On the day we are starting the journey, at around 10pm we were struggling to get in to a bus from Colombo to Ampara. Private bus was almost packed and they said they can’t assure on the next bus. At CTB bus stand there was a bus with seats available, but unfortunately all reserved. However we managed to convince the bus conductor and he arranged us a seat for 1 (Thivanka) and other has to sit on the engine cover which is next to the driver. They have arranged it for keep baggage & with me 2 other guys joined. It was not easy to keep sitting on it in a moving bus, after few hours even the bones start paining

1st Shot of the day. Road from Bibila To Ampara

Namal Oya Reservoir

Namal Oya Reservoir

At around 7am we got down at “Pansal Handiya” (Temple junction – to right “Inginiyagala”, to left “Ampara”) and took another bus to Inginiyagala. There is a shop at Inginiyagala junction & the gentleman there (Mr Bandara) is a knowledgeable person about the area. Food is also in good quality. He helped us to reserve seats in a bus which is leaving at night by calling to Kalmunei depot.

Inginiyagala Mountain has 2 peaks. 1st one is the “Punchi Sri Padaya” & to get a clear view of Senanayake Reservoir it is a must to go to the second peak. The trail starts at the “Vidyaraja Piriwena” premises & it was a 5 mins walk from the junction. Unfortunately the head priest was not there to inform.  A worker in the temple told us the directions to trail head. Footpath was easily identified & not hard to tackle.

Trail starts from here

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Trailhead

Path

Path

Caves

A giant

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The path was becoming unclear but manageable. Climbing uphill was not that difficult. We stopped at one point to have a rest continued to the 1st peak. (Punchi Sri Padaya)

Our resting point

Reaching “Punchi Sri Padaya”

Wadinagala

Senanayake Reservoir as seen from Punchi Sri Padaya

Pallanhela – Our next destination of the day

Gal Oya National Park

A Pano

Seems Abandoned

Then few mins of resting time & a session of photography, started heading to the next peak. We were unable to find any footpath but looking at the direction we made it to the 2nd peak. To see the “Spill of Senanayake Reservoir” we had to go to an edge before reach the peak. Also we came across with a huge cave while on the way to the top.

On the way to the next peak

Namal Oya Reservoir can be seen

The Spill of Senanayake Reservoir

Closer look

At the edge

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The Heat

Cave of Igini

Sceneries from the peak

Bund of Senanayake Reservoir

Pallanhela again. As seen from the 2nd peak of Iginiyagala

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What else I could ask for

Observations

Descending was so quick because we had to go to Pallanhela & come back to watch the sunset at Senanayake Reservoir. From Inginiyagala junction there are several buses heading to Wadinagala & it’s a 10 – 12kms journey to Dewalahinda. There is a board placed aside of the road (Wikramasheelaramaya). Once got down from the bus we had to walk some more to reach Wikramasheelaramaya.

Climb starts with few ancient steps on a rock. Then there is a pond, a Mini Stupa and a closed room like a dewalaya. Have to turn left from there and enter to the tree line. At the beginning it was a steep climb under the trees. Climbing through the rock was bit hard because of the heat. Therefore we made several pit stops. It took some time for us to pass the rock walls & reach to the top. We came across with 2 rock walls one after the other.

Steps

The rock pond

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